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Showing content with the highest reputation since 10/12/2020 in all areas

  1. 9 points
    Double Trouble .. I installed the much hated Yamaha Center Stand and equally hated Yamaha Heated Grips along with wiring and spacer, Easy install if you can follow instructions had have 2 sets of vice grips , The grips (imo) looks better than oxfords, and feel hotter than Hades. The Center Stand, perfect fitting, easy to use and designed for the bike! imo A must Have, for me as it will safely aid in maintenance and storage.
  2. 7 points
    So after a long a chilly ride to Rally Raid my new front suspension was waiting for me. when the old internals were pulled out and the new Open cartridge set was side by side you can see it is significantly differently and understand why the original units is not ideal for my style of riding. the standard suspension is ideally for generic riding , little bit of this and that but far too easy to reach its limits. so a bit about me, 50 and ex enduro rider of 30 years. still off road ride and need a better more compliant ride now. we all know what the existing springy bits like on the front. not reactive can be harsh if ridden fast off road bottoms out to easily brake dive and wallows. ridden really fast on rough gravel and tank slap will appear. Rally Raid took 2 hours to install the new kit and set my weight up ( 90kgs clothed) i went for a quick trip after it was set up and the first thing i noticed it dives ALOT less. I then found a rough gravel track and pushed it, gone is the harsh reaction and where as before i would avoid a pothole ( gravel) just go straight through. Instead of a bang you get a phumf:)) . the faster you go the smoother it becomes and sort of starts to float . I have a Rally Raid upgraded spring on the rear and because the front is well sorted you start to notice the rear being lesser grade. I adjusted that more and it became absolutely fine and good enough. I found a grass verge which was 12 inchies high approx vertical, i just hit it square on. OH Yes what a massive difference, nice and soft up it went. No bottoming and nasty noises, quietly took it in its stride. And back down it exactly the same with no question whether you will damage something. On the road it was slightly firmer than the yam set up so i wound the pre load off ( left hand fork) and was very much better. The 5mm spacer was installed so if you want a softer highly damped feel you can do it. kit comes with the tools to do it. Needs bedding in but after 200 miles was more compliant on the road and more sports bike handling, less wallowing. Overall I'm so pleased with it and WELL worth doing as can ride to my full potential without grimacing when i hit some rough ground.
  3. 7 points
    Was nice out after work today, so I took the road less traveled home.
  4. 7 points
    Oh no you didn't!! Welcome to the super duper OVERWEIGHT T700 Club! Yamaha Main Stand Anonymous Club! Don't mind those 'Fake' center stand downers. I love the convenience of a center stand.
  5. 7 points
    90 nm rear spring tested, set zero preload clicks. And Whoa, it is brilliant. Bike feels quality. Feels like it should have always been. Fitted new rear tyre too so the whole handling is sweet. Accelerates with no squatting added one click of rebound damping. Bumpy roads traversed easier and more solid feel. It is a big thumbs up from me.
  6. 6 points
    Hi Folks, After a couple drops the exhaust is inching closer and closer to the swingarm. I don’t plan on becoming a better rider fast enough to solve this problem so here’s my mechanical fix (yet to test…). Like an aluminum derailleur hanger on a mountain bike this will bend/re-bend/break before the steel frame mount and can be easily and cheaply replaced (always have a spare and carry with your tools!). This is the stock exhaust but it would work for aftermarket as well. Tools needed: Allen Keys – 4mm, 6mm, 8mm 14mm wrench Drill bits, taps (maybe), bandsaw/hacksaw, file, sander Hammer and starter punch Materials: 2” x 3/16” Aluminum Flat Bar Rivets JB Weld (maybe) First, remove your can. 6mm allen key for the pipe clamp, 8mm allen key and 14mm wrench for the frame hanger bolt. Drill the head off the "strap" rivet and slide that sucker off. You can't remove the rivet completely unless you drill the hole out bigger, it's sandwiched between two layers of the can. You can push it to the side and install a new rivet to cover the hole or just drop a blob of JB Weld on (sand/clean area first). That's what I did. It's hidden on the wheel side of the can and hopefully the JB can handle the heat, we'll see. Next, layout the strap mounting holes on your flat bar. I use a hammer and starter punch before drilling holes. I drilled the two small holes with a 13/64" drill bit and tapped with an M6 x 1.0 tap (welcome to Canada eh, a cultural melting pot where all standards of measurement are accepted). By tapping I can use the existing bolts, if that's not in your wheelhouse find some longer nuts and bolts and through-bolt it! For the large hole any old nut and bolt you've got lying around will do the trick. I found an old M8 to keep things metric. With the strap mounted to your newly drilled and tapped flat bar hold them up to the frame mount on the bike and decide how far apart you want your mounting bolts. I ended up with 2 7/8" center-to-center but you do you. I thought the distance looked long enough to allow for some bending if dropped but not so much that I was stressing the bracket under the weight of the pipe (as I mentioned earlier I haven't tested this yet...). Mark and punch your new mounting hole and clean up the design. I cut my bracket using a bandsaw and finished with a belt sander but a hacksaw, file, and some sand paper would do the trick. Remember, you need two right off the bat - one installed and one on hand to get you home when the first one breaks after too many falls. Its not super pretty but as long as I stick to the same hole spacing I can work on the design as I replace them. Mount everything to check fit then mark a hole for the new strap rivet. You can skip this step if you're still prototyping but I went ahead and committed. You can see the JB in the original hole below. If you're set on your new strap position, drill for a new rivet. There are two layers to the can. I drilled just through the first and used a washer to achieve the proper spacing so the rivet didn't bottom out. I see no problem with drilling through both layers and using a longer rivet but maybe increased exposure to fumes/heat will shorten the lifespan of the rivet, who knows, I'm not a doctor... I've decided to repaint the can with some high heat enamel so I'm not setting the rivet just yet - as is it looks like s%#t with the old rub marks. I'll report back once that's done and give an update as to how the new bracket holds up. If anyone else has tried this or if any engineers out there have some tips I'd love to hear from you! Happy Trails Folks!
  7. 5 points
    Part of the 20 000km service was change of the chain and so the front and rear sprockets. The chain would definitely last longer if only some of the X rings were not missing... already for 10 000km. I was very surprised to find the front sprocket nut not stoked (as it should be) and pretty much completely loose, instead of being tight at 95Nm. May be worth checking yours...
  8. 5 points
    My hugely technical addition today was.... this sticker
  9. 4 points
    BLZ2DWL- yes, each seat will be available individually As a update, I should have the standard height mold in the next couple days and then push the pattern through ASAP. Still shooting to have it finalized and listed by the first of next month.
  10. 4 points
    Definitely needed the heated grips today!
  11. 4 points
    I also have and love the Yamaha center stand! I didn’t want one at 1st (my bike came with the rally kit) but after I started using it I can’t bring myself to take it off!
  12. 4 points
    UPDATE: Finally a little good news; Dear friends, Look who’s got the tube out of his nose! All of a sudden Kenneth’s recovery took a turn, now finally in the positive direction! He’s eating normal food, and could remove the painful tube that’s been through his nose into his small intestine for so long now. We expect him to be discharged from the hospital this week, so we’ve found a small apartment to rent while we build our strength back up Thank you all so much for your support!
  13. 4 points
    Well, I guess I ride all year as well, its still a bike!
  14. 4 points
    Stock length plus 2 more softer options
  15. 4 points
    So living in the Edmonton area we get 5+ months of winter, and 2 months of shoulder season crappy riding weather. I'm lucky enough to store all my road bikes in a heated (albeit just above freezing) garage. I fill up the tanks with non-ethanol gasoline (Shell Premium), tip in the correct amount of fuel stabilizer, run the engine for 10 minutes, change the oil and hook them up to a battery tender. One of my bikes is going on 15 years treated that way without so much as needing a new battery. Dust them off in the spring, check the oil, and tire pressures and hit the button. Away they go. BTW, this only applies to Fuel Injected engines. For carbureted engines, you should always drain/run out the fuel from the carbs. I've never fogged an engine I plan to use the next season. I've fogged plenty where they were going to sit for more than a year though. It is a good idea if they are going to sit for awhile. I would think it is also a good idea if they are being stored in a high humidity (coastal/great lakes type) environment as well. High humidity sea air can be hard on steel/iron. Most of the new bikes don't run iron cylinder liners anymore though, so fogging really only puts a film on the piston/liner to minimize friction on start-up. If you are running an older engine (car/bike/marine) then I would definitely fog it if you plan on having it sit for over 12 months. That being said, it won't hurt anything when done properly.
  16. 3 points
    Hello from Arizona (actually I am working on ship in the Bering Sea) I have been a long time Super Tenere rider. I have found my self doing mostly off road riding and the T700 is going to be perfect for me. Great information on this site.
  17. 3 points
    I also have the Adventure Spec rack on the rear of my T7. Was concerned about fatiguing the aluminum after I mounted a Pelican type box on back. Added these struts to alleviate my concern.
  18. 3 points
    Hi everyone! Switched from Versys 650 to Tenere 700 in September and I'm loving it! Here are pics of my black beauty on her maiden ride vs after a bit of Polish TET & quarry fun
  19. 3 points
  20. 3 points
    Hello from Lancashire England, just saying hello and a reason why called bend it as had to get new handle bars after a trip. waited 6 weeks to arrive from Japan. Not a happy camper. pleasure to be here
  21. 3 points
    following for group buy info when the 1pc standard height comfort becomes available
  22. 3 points
    I have the same issue. I've noticed the bumping since 0Km, but due my lack of experience i thought it was road defect Now with 4500Km i went to the dealer. He inspected the wheel and told me the problem is a defective tire. Took this pictures to show what the dealer means with defective tire. It is noticeable in almost every section of the tire with the wearing marks.
  23. 3 points
    Just returned from 6 days in the BC back country with 3 KTM 690's and a Husky 701. Riders ranged from a multiple Baja competitor to a back in the saddle after 22 years. My experience is upper middle of the pack. Did 2800 kms with about 1000 kms of pavement (to get to the good stuff) and the rest forestry trunk roads, forestry service roads, logging roads, quad trails and the occasional no-road breaking trail. Elevation ranges from 500m to 2200m. Trails included loose gravel, sand, water crossings (2-2.5' deep) large rocks and hard pack dirt. Likes: - Power delivery! Hands down - smooth and tractable. Excellent for loose rocks/gravel/sand climbs - Clutch actuation (easily 1 finger) - Riding position - Handling at any speed. Loses it's weight REALLY quickly when doing slow steep climbs/descents - Fuel mileage (consistently 8-11% better than all of them) - Rear brakes (don't really like them on the road, but great in the dirt for modulation or sliding) - Climbing ability - Outex Tubeless system with TPMS - Camel Footpegs - Yamaha engine/fairing guard and Outback panier racks - no bike damage when it went over... - Rally seat - 10+hours per day in the saddle, it was awesome. Dislikes: - My tire selection - Should have had E-09's or similar, not E-07's - Leaking Outex system (likely an installation issue on my part - will figure it out soon) - Weight -If bike is 450lbs with fuel, and had 50lbs of tools/fuel/luggage - heavy to pick up when it fell over... I was worried the 690/701 crowd were going to leave me for dead, but I went everywhere they did except one muddy climb that I attributed to tire selection (spun out). The trails we started on I could have taken my S-10 on, until day 3,4,5 where I wished I had my Wr450. Tight, rocky, off camber, steep quad trails. The Minnie T handled it without fuss, and I wasn't even beat up at the end of the day. Great bike!
  24. 3 points
  25. 3 points
    I'm happy to report the Gut Guard is compatible with the SW Motech and Hepco Becker centerstands!
  26. 3 points
  27. 3 points
    My CRG RC2 shorty brake lever arrived. CRG also makes standard length brake lever. The install only took a couple of minutes. Great machining and really tight tolerances. Almost no up and down play, negligible. Top notch quality! Lever is for: CRG RC2 Brake Lever Yamaha FZ / MT / FJ / FJR / XSR900 Black / Shorty Adjusted to the small dot, 1st position of 6. Closest to the grip. Adjusted to the large dot, 6th of 6 positions. Furthest away from the grip. I like the 3rd position feel, not having ridden with it yet. I'll see after my commute tomorrow, what position I end up liking. It has a roller bearing engagement surface for the adjustment, so changing positions takes very little effort. Racers adjust their levers on the track, as their brakes fade from over heating. They can adjust it out for more leverage when the brakes have faded. The tip of the CRG brake lever is a replaceable Delrin part. If racer goes down the replaceable polymer tip can grind down on the road surface, without breaking the lever. CRG sells all parts of the levers as replaceable parts and in many colors. My CRG RC2 shorty Clutch lever comes in tomorrow, Install video:
  28. 3 points
  29. 3 points
    So for those of you that remember that far back, I had the development system from Lextek on my bike. Well the link pipe and silencers are finally available to buy, with headers not far behind! I did a little write up on the product after spending a year with it: Lextek Exhaust Review for Yamaha Ténéré 700 - 9to5ADV Lextek have released their link pipe to attach their range of end cans to the Ténéré 700. At a budget price, is the exhaust worth your money?
  30. 3 points
  31. 2 points
    Just wanted to let you folks now I had an interesting and disappointing situation with my new Tenere. Last week I reached my 600 mile break-in so I changed the oil. The drain plug from the dealership was on really tight. After draining the oil I put the plug back in. I followed the instructions in the service manual which called for 32 ft/lbs of torque. However, I managed the strip the threads and partially squash the strainer cover assembly (the OEM name). Of course, I was surprised and horrified. I rechecked my torque wrench about 10x and it was set to only 30 ft/lbs. Suspecting the wrench failed I checked it against another and it seemed to be okay. I did not "calibrate" the wrench, but merely checked it against the "feel" of another to determine they about the same. I brought the bike to the dealer for repair and explained the story. In the meantime, I checked the torque specs on other motorcycles: KLR650 (17 ft/lbs); Husqvarna 350 (15 ft/lbs); Triumph Tiger (17 ft/lbs). Why does the Tenere call for 32 lbs? Seems like a lot by comparison, even if the bolt is big. I can't send a picture because the bike is in the shop right now. Long story short: Yamaha agreed this was too much torque for this plug, and said they will no longer recommend 32 ft/lbs. Yamaha will cover the cost of the part and the repair, but unfortunately, the part is on backorder with no ETA at this time. Bummer since the riding season is quickly coming to a close. I wanted to warn other Tenere riders to be careful with the plug.
  32. 2 points
    I received follow up email from Rally Raid today. It seems I was missing some spacers that go between the silencer support bracket and the side racks. I noticed the thick washers that I did I receive, for between the support arms and the side racks, are about half as thick as the spacers shown in their online instructions. They are sending me a new silencer support bracket with more clearance in the mounting holes. And I have asked for the spacers I seem to be missing. Will update when I get to fitting those.
  33. 2 points
    I had a 790R and now have the T700 so figured I'd add my thoughts I picked up my 790R first of July of 2019. sold end of July 2020. mine was in the shop a bunch for warranty work to much for me I'm not going to list everything but 7 trips to the dealer usually with 2 or more items to be fixed in less than a year and a couple return trips for parts that were on back order. I lost confidence in it so when the T700 pre order opened I made a last minute decision to get one. I don't think either of these bikes are off-road travel bikes if that's what your looking for then you should get a 450-500 4 stroke or a 690-701 and install a big tank and some rack less luggage. The t700 and 790 are really for some one who will be doing 45% road 45% dirt roads or 2 track 10% off road or single track. I also will say I think the t700 would be better compared to the standard 790 because of the suspension on the R. the 790R if I'm recalling correctly is $3500.00 more than a t700 at msrp. you can get some serious work done on the t700 suspension for that amount. I do miss the KTM suspension in the fast rough stuff, on the road or mild off road no real difference between the two. Engine I think the Yamaha wins this, its better everywhere except top end HP. I also did not care for all the electronics on the KTM I never could find a setting on the rally mode that I liked as much as the standard off road setting and did not care for the traction control. I like the simplicity of the Yamaha. I do miss the ABS on the KTM thought the off road option was nice. a couple other thing I liked better about the KTM , larger fuel tank and the bike being more compact. a couple things I like better about the Yamaha riding position, looks, less buffeting on the road. neither of these are the unicorn but for me I think the Yamaha checks more boxes than the KTM
  34. 2 points
    I have recently fitted the T7Rally wind screen adjuster along with the Rally Raid side wind deflectors. I just had it out for a short run got up to 115km unfortunately it is a reasonably windy day so my initial assessment is hampered by the gusty wind. That aside I found with the adjustable screen fully extended along with the side deflectors I did notice a considerable reduction of buffeting on my upper chest as well as my shoulders. So my report is that the 2 combined initially are a marked improvement on the OEM setup. I am sure it is not going to be perfect but it is an improvement. Once the wind has died down and I can go for a reasonable ride along the freeway I will give my final opinion of them. Cheers all, Allen T7rally. Windscreen adjusters. Rally Raid wind deflectors.
  35. 2 points
  36. 2 points
    After a few rides now I have come up with what I think is my final assessment of the wind deflector and the adjustable windshield brackets. I have found the deflectors work a treat and the adjuster does to a degree, the problem I have found with the windshield adjuster is that if it is lifted to its fullest height the effect of the protection is negated by the gap at the bottom of the screen and the headlight. My conclusion is that it works reasonably well until it is at full height. For me it is a working alteration but when I will be planning long term and long distance riding I more than likely will purchase a one piece touring shield. For one or two day trips this setup will suffice. I hope this is of some assistance to you all, cheers Allen.
  37. 2 points
    A major fault, I know, but I got a letter from the Piano Makers this morning to tell me my rear reflector does not reach the correct standards of UN reflectivness. Not entriely sure I will be making a special trip to the dealers to correct this!
  38. 2 points
    I also went with the 90 rear spring and fork spacers. Has transformed the bike and ready to carrying some camping gear in the brilliant Enduristan Blizzard XL Bags without a worry.
  39. 2 points
    For those that want to run a Givi topbox with the Adventure Spec rear rack, it's absolutely possible. I bought a genuine universal Givi Z113C2 mount for only £20 from sportsbikeshop.co.uk. I didn't have to drill anything at all and the mount was secured with the provided brackets and I used stainless Allen bolts and stainless nylox nuts. I tested it out with the rally seat and I can still get the seat off and there's plenty of room two up with my old Givi topbox fitted. I will be using this setup for commuting only and switch to soft luggage for adventure riding. Hope this is helpful to someone. Rich
  40. 2 points
    That’s exactly what I was thinking! Tonight I finished up installing the Oxford Adventure heated grips, tapped into the factory aux connector. These are my 1st ever heated grips on a bike! I agree with the few out there who don’t like the controller sticking off the handlebars but otherwise I think the controller itself is fine. Anyway I straightened out the mounting bracket and mounted it to the bobble bolt. You can’t reach and press it with any finger but a left thumb press is super easy.
  41. 2 points
    There' a little flat spot below the tank where I was able to put the velcro for the Skene controller. And a perfect bolt to attach the relay. Overall I'm happy and it's mostly tidy tucked under the side fairing.
  42. 2 points
    http://yamahaoemparts.com.au/partFinder/fiche/yamaha-parts/2020/xtz690z#next I had a black DRZ that said yellow on the papers. It wasn't an issue when I bought it. Nor was it an issue when I had it inspected annually; or when I passed the popo probably hundreds of times; or when I was pulled up by the popo and fined for furious riding; or when I sold it.
  43. 2 points
    Hello my Tenere 700 with a kit from Race Style, very satisfied, excellent service and quality
  44. 2 points
    Decided on this scheme instead of buying a new bike in rally colours.
  45. 2 points
    I've got a 90nm on mine too. Transformed it and only 4 to 5 clicks now of preload needed to get the right rider/static sag versus 22 clicks out of 24 on the original shock. I'm 86 kg or 13 and a half stone naked. Works brilliantly for me.
  46. 2 points
    I got the 90 and I'm 160. I ride two up 30% of the time though. And I have crash bars, skid plate, rear rack, and top case so the extra 5nm helps.
  47. 2 points
    10\13\2020 INSTALLED: CRG RC2 Shorty Brake Lever: Yamaha FZ / MT / FJ / FJR / XSR900 Black - REVZILLA My CRG RC2 short brake lever arrived today. CRG also makes a standard length brake lever. Install took all but a minute. Great machining and really tight tolerances. Almost no up and down play, negligible. Top notch quality! Adjusted to the small dot, 1st position of 6. Closest to the grip. Adjusted to the large dot, 6th of 6 positions. Furthest away from the grip. I like the 3rd position feel, not having ridden with it yet. I'll see after my commute tomorrow, what position I end up liking. It has a roller bearing surface engagement for the adjustment, so changing positions takes very little effort.
  48. 2 points
    The snorkel is only a single piece. Simply give it a good squeeze and yank, and the entire snorkel will pop right out of the airbox lid! Yes, the fuel mapping necessary for the stock exhaust is much different than any of the aftermarket options. That said, we offer free updates after the initial flash is performed for any future modifications! All you ever pay for in the future is for shipping of the ECU. -2WDW
  49. 2 points
    A few of my mates use Pirelli MT21 for heavy bikes like Suzuki DR800 , Honda Africa Twin, KTM 950 Adventure. The T7 is lighter than these bikes. They told me that after about 5000 km the MT21 is worn out, depending on the type of terrain they ride.
  50. 2 points
    Okay, I read your rant. And ignored it completely. Having just changed the pads (with the rear wheel off for easier access) I now completely agree. Bloody horrible design. I did this outside my flat with a cuppa, on a beautiful day, with access to all my tools. If I were doing this by the roadside somewhere in the rain, I would not be a happy bunny. If these pads need changing again within 10000km I'm gonna cry...
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