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I pulled the charcoal canister & hoses off my T7 today, this is what I took off. I pulled the seat, all the front fairings & the tank off to do this. The two hoses to the right are vacuum lines the hook to the throttle bodies & the hose pointing down is the fuel tank overflow line. I cut the canister rubber mount sleeve to remove the assembly from the bike, it is captured by the starter. It could be removed intact, but the starter would have to be removed/loosened to do so. Keep & reuse the little in line roll over valve & portion of line that runs to the tank vent. Right throttle body vacuum nipple. This is from the back of the bike looking forward, the cylinder head cover is at the top of the image. Left throttle body vacuum nipple, the right one is obscured by the big vent line in this image. Vent line is just a regular crankcase vent, there are no PAIR valve reeds or pump on the T7. I ordered some 5mm silicon blanking caps off Amazon to put on the nipples, they should be here in a few days. I'll update the post if the size is incorrect. These vacuum ports ensure that no fumes vent out of the charcoal canister, only that fresh air is pulled in through the canister vent line that runs down in front of the countershaft sprocket. Blocking them will not change the way the engine runs or it's tune. They must be blocked or they will suck unfiltered air into the intake. I also ordered 1/4 Motion Pro gray tygon fuel line off Amazon to run from the fuel fill overflow. I plan to route it to take advantage of the original canister vent line routing in front of the countershaft. Be aware, if you overfill the tank or drop the bike, fuel will now run out of this hose possibly onto your foot/shifter/skid plate/etc. Reinstall the roll over valve (note the UP cast into it) & attach the new hose to the bottom of it - Thanks Tenererian End result is a big airy open space through the middle of the bike. Just like all the cool kids try to get on their CB550 cafe bikes.

I'm trying to install a Garmin XT on my crossbrace above the dash and have gotten to the point that I have to run some wirng back to the battery. Is there an easy way to go under the gas tank or do I need to pull the side covers and gas tank? Thanks for any advice!

I curious on the range people are getting out of a full tank. Today my low fuel "light" came on at 139 miles wich is definitely not going to cut it for some of the trips I have planned i was really hoping for 200 miles out of a tank. Is my low mileage cause I just ride that hard. This was a mixture of hwy riding and twisty back mountain roads and some urban commuting. This is only my 2nd tank the first tank i ran down to about 1/4 then filled up again. So what are people tending to get out of a tank? Is the reserve that big on this bike can i get another 50 miles? Any info would be great and the more input the better. Here is a pic from todays 80mile ride home from work. Lol my shop is only 14 miles away but for some reason I got lost today. Also got my gps installed. Size matches the dash perfectly.

THOR SKID PLATE FOR T7 MODEL 2020 AND 2021! TOTAL HAND MADE! AVAILABLE ON THE SITE: THOR: Yamaha Tenere 700 skid plate – GpMucci.it Vai alla pagina in italiano THOR, IL PARACOPPA PER YAMAHA TENERE 700 THOR, IL PARACOPPA PER YAMAHA TENERE 700 THOR is the sump guard I made for Yamaha Tenere 700. It is the...

TENERÈ 700 WITH THOR SKID PLATE COMPATIBLE ON BOTH THE 2020 AND 2021 MODELS. THOR IN THE TEXTURED BLACK AND NATURAL VERSION! REAL HAND MADE PRODUCT YOU CAN FIND IT ON OUR SITE: THOR: Yamaha Tenere 700 skid plate – GpMucci.it Vai alla pagina in italiano THOR, IL PARACOPPA PER YAMAHA TENERE 700 THOR, IL PARACOPPA PER YAMAHA TENERE 700 THOR is the sump guard I made for Yamaha Tenere 700. It is the...

When I let go of the wheel at 35 it wobbles a little any suggestions on how to get it to stop

Hi all. Purchased a Hepco Becker center stand for my 2021 T 700. Assembly was straight forward. Fit is excellent BUT the chain touches the stand when it is up. I have checked the install ( emailed pics to Moto machines where it was puchased) all looks good. I can't see how it could be installed incorrectly as it will only fit in one place. Has anyone else had this problem? Would love feed back before I remove it. Thanks

hello T7 owners - i describe my biggest pet peeve - but I am over it now - just got used to it

I took a solo ride this morning trying to beat the heat and wanted to be back before noon. I hadn't ridden Schnebly Hill Road, out of Sedona and got there early enough to beat most of the tourists there. I passed a handful of tour jeeps, but pretty much had the road to myself and not one other motorcycle to be found. I finally got to test out the newly shod Dunlop Trailmax Mission front tire and am constantly impressed with the wide range of conditions that tire handles. I bounced off many a baby head and many sharp edged rocks with the tire and suspension soaking it right up, holding my line. I was reminded in a short sand section that the DTM is not a knobby, but it did fine and was smooth as glass at 75mph on I -17 headed back. The toughest part of the ride was reminding myself to stop to admire the scenery, which is awesome, but best viewed when not picking a line through rocks with this 450 lb. horse. It wasn't the roughest road I've ever ridden, but plenty of effort for my arthritic mitts to handle. That's another one to check off my list in my new playground, looking forward to more.

I have the Outbackmototeck Crash Bars with the Camel High Fender mount kit and the Polisport UFX fender. I recently purchased Cyclopsadventure T7 lights. These things are amazing and I would highly recommend. With my particular setup I had to put some extra thought into how I could mount the lights with the crash bars and fender kit. I thought I would share here in case someone else ran into the same issues. CycleOpsAdv does make a high fender mount, but I am unsure if it will actually fit with the upper crash bars. I ordered one to see, but I am really liking my current setup. Behind the fork on the frame there is a small shelf that holds the switch. Instead of running the wires forward, I routed them backwards. I then routed the wires through the side plastics. There was plenty of areas to zip tie and secure the wire. I did end up drilling one small hole on the right side to add an additional tie to make sure the wire would not come close to the radiator. Next, I cut a small gap in the plastic. I made this gap wider to ensure no rubbing on the wires. For the light, I replaced the standard screws with shorter stainless steel to allow for a closer fit to the plastics. I flipped the lights so the logo reads correctly. Once installed, I hoped on the bike to add sag since this will increase the length of the brake house. I wanted to make sure there was no snagging when the fork was compressed and turned all the way left or right. The brake line slightly touches, but I am okay with that as long as it doesn’t snag. Alternatively, I grabbed a plate at the local hardware store. This cost $5 and you could drill holes to match the crash bars and slip this metal sheet in between. See example pic. I really like the current position, it’s well protected from a crash by the bars and the light seems to be since it’s offset from fender VS. the standards mounts. I did note that it would be nice to have some more wire length coming from the light before it hits the thick connectors. This would allow for a sleeker fit. I did pass this along to CyclopsAdventure. hope this helps someone!

It works, but it's not quite plug & play. First, you have to toss the exhaust gasket. You will have minor exhaust leaks. On the other hand, the stock muffler leaks about as much through a weep hole in the bottom of it anyway. Muffler weep hole Exhaust leak at the clamp. The Akrapovic spring loop prevents the stock exhaust from sliding on far enough to get a good seal. Bend the little ear on the clamp that held the exhaust gasket in place up so it doesn't interfere with the Akrapovic header. I put the ear in my bench vice & bent it open by hand. You could cut it off with an angle grinder or replace it with a stainless t-bolt clamp as well. I won't be keeping my stock exhaust long, so quick & dirty for me. Once I had the muffler clamped in place, I found that the muffler hanger was off by about a half an inch. You can see the wear marks on this picture after I moved the clamp. You can't just slide the hanger clamp on the muffler as it is riveted to the can from the factory. 1. Remove the muffler from the bike. Drill the rivet out on & take the hangar clamp off the can. This will make reinstalling the can much easier, you'll be able to rotate the can much more as you slide it onto the headpipes 2. Remove the stock headpipes. You can also remove the whole rear rubber mount from the frame that the stock headpipe hangs on. 3. Install the Akra headpipes according to their instructions. 4. Spray a little WD-40/oil/bacon grease on the headpipes where the muffler will slip on, this will make slipping it in place much easier. Don't forget to put the clamp on first, tighten it down once the muffler is on as far as it can go. 5. Slide the hangar clamp over the muffler from the end. The Akra headpipes will point the muffle much closer to the swingarm than stock. Pull the can away from the bike & position the hanger clamp correctly & tighten it down.

Anyone want to swap black body work for a set of red/white? Brand new, no marks whatsoever on my bodywork. I got a set of SKDA graphics & the reds do not match, I think they’ll look better on the black plastic. Looking to swap tail, both side panels & tank cover. Your plastic doesn’t need to be perfect, no cracks though.

On first ride from dealer Friday October 23, 2020 I noticed the front tire has a balance wobble (bounce almost) from ~38MPH thru 50MPH. Above 50MPH there is a whirring sound and slightly intolerable higher frequency vibration felt through frame, bars, et cetera. My research so far only produced that the 2021 T7 comes with a spoke weight opposite the valve stem. I removed the weight rode again, and experienced no change in vibration pattern. Dealer balanced on a machine, placing weights back into the same factory setting. Followed by claim that this is how the stock tire performs... "this is normal ADV knobby tire vibration." Thoughts? Help?

The reasoning... I get how many of you will think this is an unnecessary upgrade. It cost $120 and was NOT fun crafting my own bracket just to hold the damn thing. But you know what, last week I about lost it when this oblivious teenage girl turned into my lane and completely ignored be laying on the horn. She wasn't the first driver to make me nearly crap myself, and she won't be the last. At least with an air horn, I can be sure we BOTH crap ourselves. Or better yet, keep them from running me off the road in the first place. The process... The product is called the "Screaming Banshee - Shockwave". It's advertised as 132 db, motorcycle friendly, and easy to install. I bought it from their website which I will link below for $120. Me and the Banshee didn't get off to a great start when I discovered the "bracket" it came with wouldn't even fit onto the horn because it was 1/8'' too wide, but even if it did fit on the horn, the way the stock horn bracket is configured, the Banshee had no hope of just bolting directly on. It's too heavy for the stock horn bracket and doesn't face the right direction. This was going to require it's own custom bracket. Using some scrap angled aluminum I had in the workshop, I was able to craft this. It wasn't going to win any beauty contests but the metal is thick enough I don't fear it will bend and it does a good job at facing the opening to the horn out towards my left leg. It couldn't be mounted with the opening end facing the front or rain could find it's way inside. Found some extra bolts that fit fine, added loctite then bolted her right on. For some added piece of mind I also zip tied the center of the horn directly to the upper crash bars. Doesn't move an inch, and if I drop the bike on the side, the crash bars should take most of the impact before the horn touches ground. As for the wiring, it wasn't too challenging. Two blue wires that plugged into the stock horn female ends, one positive wire to run to the battery (which was just perfectly long enough, phew), a yellow wire for splicing into the high beams (It supposedly will flash the high beams while you honk, but an optional step that I didn't do) and lastly a ground wire (which you can see in the picture I attached to a skid plate bolt. The picture above wasn't the finished wiring setup because after testing to make sure it worked, I went back and added wire protectors to everything, and zip tied it all neatly to the frame. Lastly, I made sure to add stickers. All-in-all, I am pleased with the finished product. It sounds like a train horn, it's insane. Obviously, it's far more important to brake quickly or swerve away from an idiot about to hit you, but an air horn will at least get their attention and let them know they screwed up. And if this can't get their attention, nothing will. In the event the horn craps outs, falls off, or I just don't want it, it would be a 15min job to put the stock horn back on. No damage done. Some things to note... It was advertised to have a "friendly honk" which is quieter and activated by very quickly tapping the horn button, but for me this didn't work. It is loud or nothing. Not really an issue for me but worth mentioning. Another thing, you can't "lay on the horn". If you do it will automatically take a 0.5sec pause in-between blasts as if it needs to "take a breath" before screaming again, which I find kind of funny. Screaming Banshee Shockwave Horn The Screaming Banshee Shockwave Horn with BVAS is the loudest and best engineered motorcycle horn you can buy. From our compact design and integrated flashing headlight feature, to our simple, one touch...

Center Tank Protector samples are in! We have two choices... Center Tank Protector 2: $20 option (retail is $25) OR Center Tank Protector 84: $15 option (retail is $20) Let me know what you think! ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ Just got of the phone with my good friend Scott at TechSpec, and have GREAT NEWS!!! They are just days away from releasing their TechSpec Gripster Tank Grips for the Tenere 700 on Aug 1st, and we're doing a GROUP BUY on them!!! These fit the Tenere 700 perfectly, and this 6 piece set offers more surface area then the Genuine Yamaha Accessory version (which isn't even available in the US). The material they chose for the Tenere 700 is their Snake Skin material - great grip, and extremely durable. Retail pricing is $80, but GROUP BUY pricing is as follows: 1-9 people: $70 and FREE SHIPPING (in the Contiguous US) 10+ people: $65 and FREE SHIPPING (in the Contiguous US) International customers are more than welcome, but it's a flat rate of $35 to ship internationally. Canadian customer orders will ship via DHL to avoid silly USPS delays (for some reason Canadian Customs take a while for USPS items to clear) Because TechSpec is located in the US, there will NOT be the long lead times associated with parts manufactured in Europe. Scott assured me he can get these out quickly. And I'm going to go one step further...for those NOT wanting to wait until we get to 10+ people, I'll REFUND you the $5 difference if and when we get to 10 people! If you want a matching tank pad, there are a few universal ones they make that should fit the Tenere 700 nicely, in the same matching Snake Skin material. Scott is sending me some samples to see which ones fit best. Once we determine which one fits best with the Tenere 700 tank, I'll post up a picture and I'll add it as an option to this group buy. The tank pad will be a $15-$20 option, depending on the tank pad that is chosen, which is $5 off the retail price. It'll ship for free along with the Tank Grips. I'll start the list now: 1. ORDERED @johnnygolucky kit 2. ORDERED @roy826 kit 3. ORDERED @MOTOTEVE kit 4. ORDERED @pgeldz kit + tank pad 2 + tank pad 84 5. ORDERED @beater_bimmer kit + tank pad 84 6. ORDERED @Idarex kit 7. ORDERED @BMRT7 kit + tank pad 84 8. ORDERED @Simmons1 kit 9. ORDERED@tenerecanada kit 10. ORDERED @Subsea kit + tank pad 2 11. ORDERED @Scotster kit 12. ORDERED @DT675 kit + tank pad 84 13. ORDERED @Camel ADV kit (x2) 14. ORDERED @TennesseeTenere kit 15. ORDERED @Alkali kit 16.ORDERED @rhicks kit + tank pad 2 17. ORDERED @REDHORSECA kit + tank pad 2 (plus 2 sets for Kawasaki Versys 650) 18. ORDERED @loneranger700 kit 19. ORDERED @slakdawg kit 20. ORDERED @Tazmool kit + tank pad 84 21. ORDERED @nelsonccc kit + tank pad 2 22. ORDERED @UtahJack kit (x2) 23. ORDERED @MghtyThor69 kit + tank pad 2 24. ORDERED @Admac85 kit 25. @Adrenolin kit (maybe tank pad also) 26. ORDERED @WVdirt308 kit 27. @Seriously kit + tank pad 28. @MGG kit 29. ORDERED @Too Tall kit + tank pad 2 30. ORDERED @mattgif kit 31. ORDERED @NotGoodAtUsrnms kit 32. ORDERED @jetdr21 kit + tank pad 2 33. ORDERED @afhaldeman kit 34. ORDERED @Gekkdroid kit 35. ORDERED @Maine Tenere kit + tank pad 84 36. ORDERED @Robert Peters 37. ORDERED @Shift_T700 kit

I searched for this question but didn't find it posted anywhere, but please link if it is. I have NOT submerged mine, but I would like to know how best to recover it should the unthinkable happen. As far as I know, the airbox/filter, cylinders, exhaust, and crank case would all need some sort of attention. I can't seem to find anything in the manual about it. Specifically, I guess I'm wondering if it can be quickly recovered or if it will need 'shop-level' work (ie more than could be done creekside)? If it can be recovered creekside, what are the steps to best limit any permanent damage?

Anyone fitted Barkbusters with Kaoko? I am having trouble. BB threaded insert is bigger than factory barend weight. anyone else had trouble with this? Thanks. Listo

Still not quite sure what I did to cause this, good news is I walked away with nothing more than a sprained ankle, some cracked plastics, and a bruised ego.

This farm is just 5 miles south of the Joeph Webb House... Joseph Webb House (1752) – Historic Buildings of Connecticut Built on Main Street in Wethersfield in 1752 for the wealthy merchant, Joseph Webb. This gambrel roofed house is typical of the Georgian mansions built for the wealthy in the mid-eighteenth... ://historicbuildingsct.com/the-joseph-webb-house-1752/

I am scheduling a rally/meetup in Boise for September. Close by Idaho is the IdahoBDR route. And many many other scenic riding areas. This is prime ADV country that many dream of riding. Mountains, twisties, forest service roads galore. Plenty of hotels, we can lan this ahead and maybe get a group rate if enough of you RSVP. If we can agree on a date, I will create a calendar event. This will be a damn good rally. @PNWTEN @Idarex @Craig Sturman Interested?

Hate to admit it but I'm stymied by my sidestand. Lowered the bike now need to remove the kickstand so I can take it to a welder to have it shortened. There's a nut to remove on the left side. On the right side is a small bolt to remove. Can't figure out what to do next to get it loose. Anyone know? Thanks.

Anyone seen them available in the states? Can only find them on EBay internationally.

With the riding season soon to start - once the epic snow pack melts (Yukon) - I am looking to install Givi crashbars on my T7. But where to find them in stock in North America? Anyone have an idea?