usa Planning my Break-in ride on the Lowman loop.

[Noel McCutcheon]

17 hours ago, Mr.motarded said:

Ill be breaking in mine like my normal bike break in. Warm it up in the dealer lot and leaving on 1 wheel. Hard on throttle no rev limits and hard down shifts. High cylinder pressures to seat rings. Will change oil at 100miles or less then ride it like every other bike. Tolerances are so good now days the only thing that i worry about is seating rings. 

Just hope that you don’t need all of the normal stopping power on day 1 wheeling out of the dealers lot! As break-in is about the gearbox, suspension and bedding in tyres and brakes etc too.  As Cruizin says the absolute Worse break-in thing is sitting at a constant rpm. But the rev it hard to the red-line thing is bad and nonsense, as that seating rings thing is taken care of by Yamaha and just bursts of on and off throttle. Riders need seated in to a new bike too. Oh, and please remind me to not end up with any old bike from ya. Lol. 

[Cruizin]

9 minutes ago, X Plane said:

Allow yourself more time and pop in and out of some of those trails / dirt roads as on off the throttle and up down the gearbox is good for breaking in the gearbox, suspension and bedding in brakes etc. Break in is more than just the cylinders. Honestly, I’d change the oil after your Lowman Loop. All you’ll need suspension wise, if you weigh over 220 lbs, is a new rear 90Nm spring. 

Been doing it this way since the 80's. My engines keep full compression way into high mileage. Im not the only one. 

Break In Secrets--How To Break In New Motorcycle and Car Engines For More Power

---

New Engine Break In Procedure For Cars, Motorcycles, Motocross, Snowmobiles and Boats

 

Also , the late Smokey Yunick, famous race builder did things the same way. If I had a Dyno, I would do it on that.  The most you can do to seal piston rings properly is in the first 20 miles.  

[Noel McCutcheon]

22 minutes ago, Cruizin said:

Been doing it this way since the 80's. My engines keep full compression way into high mileage. Im not the only one. 

Break In Secrets--How To Break In New Motorcycle and Car Engines For More Power

---

New Engine Break In Procedure For Cars, Motorcycles, Motocross, Snowmobiles and Boats

 

The late Smokey Yunick, famous race builder did things the same way. If I had a Dyno, I would do it on that.  The most you can do to seal piston rings properly is in the first 20 miles. 

I do know / understand, but it is 2020 and red lining it is not necessary and following Yamaha’s method will not result in glazed bores or rings and no oil burning. But each to their own way. Still going to say though than 20 mile oil change seems too low to me i am a mechanic turned mechanical engineer. Rumour has it the 1st oil from factory is a little different to allow break in, compared than what you can get or put in. So I still think after Lowman run / a 100 or 200 miles would be better than just 20 miles. Racers don’t care anything about 100000 miles bikes. Old habits die hard. Points or petrol taps petcocks or chokes won’t need adjusted either. I am not pushing one way or another way. It is an emotive subject! Enjoy your bike your way! 

[Cruizin]

23 minutes ago, X Plane said:

I do know / understand, but it is 2020 and red lining it is not necessary and following Yamaha’s method will not result in glazed bores or rings and no oil burning. But each to their own way. Still going to say though than 20 mile oil change seems too low to me i am a mechanic turned mechanical engineer. Rumour has it the 1st oil from factory is a little different to allow break in, compared than what you can get or put in. So I still think after Lowman run / a 100 or 200 miles would be better than just 20 miles. Racers don’t care anything about 100000 miles bikes. Old habits die hard. Points or petrol taps petcocks or chokes won’t need adjusted either. I am not pushing one way or another way. It is an emotive subject! 

No, I don't redline first 600 miles. I use both hard acceleration and hard engine braking (deceleration) because both are equally important during the break in process. The way cylinders are cross hones makes them rough enough to break in/smooth the edges of the rings, running it hard but under redline is important to seat the rings BEFORE they wear in without sealing tight. This rev up and decelerate down method fully seats the rings against the cylinder walls  quickly.

 

Then, the equally best thing you can do for your engine is to change your oil and filter after the first 20 miles. Most of the wearing in process happens immediately, creating a lot of metal in the oil. Plus, the amount of leftover machining chips and other crud left behind in the manufacturing process gets drained instead of ending up in the tranny gears and oil screen. 

Edited May 30, 2020 by Cruizin
Added more detail that a mechanic would understand..

[Cruizin]

57 minutes ago, X Plane said:

I do know / understand, but it is 2020 and red lining it is not necessary and following Yamaha’s method will not result in glazed bores or rings and no oil burning. But each to their own way. Still going to say though than 20 mile oil change seems too low to me i am a mechanic turned mechanical engineer. Rumour has it the 1st oil from factory is a little different to allow break in, compared than what you can get or put in. So I still think after Lowman run / a 100 or 200 miles would be better than just 20 miles. Racers don’t care anything about 100000 miles bikes. Old habits die hard. Points or petrol taps petcocks or chokes won’t need adjusted either. I am not pushing one way or another way. It is an emotive subject! Enjoy your bike your way! 

And yes, the factory runs in the engines on a Dyno, and they do so with organic oil/non synthetic.  But, Im old and stubborn, set in my ways. I wasn't standing there next to them when they did so and I don't trust that they did. I don't know if they got all the metal shavings out, either.    Doing it my way, the old way, gives me piece of mind and my engines run a long time. When I used to race motocross and circle track, my engines often lasted much further into the season than other teams. Some of them well sponsored. 

[AZJW]

7 hours ago, Cruizin said:

Been doing it this way since the 80's. My engines keep full compression way into high mileage. Im not the only one. 

Break In Secrets--How To Break In New Motorcycle and Car Engines For More Power

---

New Engine Break In Procedure For Cars, Motorcycles, Motocross, Snowmobiles and Boats

 

Also , the late Smokey Yunick, famous race builder did things the same way. If I had a Dyno, I would do it on that.  The most you can do to seal piston rings properly is in the first 20 miles.  

@CruizinHa! I was just fishing for the Motoman method link and see you posted it.  I've used this on my FJR and Beta 520, both with favorable results.  For those considering this method be sure to read the entire article as noted in the "Street method" recommending a break- in of 200 miles.   Further down in the text under "change your oil" is a recommendation to change your oil after only 20 miles.  I followed this advice both times as it really made sense to me and no metal shavings in either bike after the initial 20 mile oil change. As noted above YMMV, but it sure has worked out well for me.

[Noel McCutcheon]

 

[Idarex]

Uh-oh, got to get ready for break in.  Anyone know what oil filter fits the T7?  I only have cartridge types on hand for my Kawis.  

[Cruizin]

17 minutes ago, Idarex said:

Uh-oh, got to get ready for break in.  Anyone know what oil filter fits the T7?  I only have cartridge types on hand for my Kawis.  

Here ya go, with links to the two lowest prices I could find online. I like the Hiflofiltro with the 17 mm nut on the end for easy removal. The MT07 owners have had great luck with it. Of course, there is always stock filter too. Both are linked in the post below. 

 

 

[Idarex]

Thx, 4 pack on the way

[Adrenolin]

When I purchased my new ‘15 WRR I did an initial oil/filter change at 50 miles using YamaLube General Purpose. I followed that up with other change at 150, 350, 600 miles. Filters in bulk are like $5 for it so it gets changed each time. Since then I’ve changed the oil every 1500-2k miles since it’s cheap to do and gives me a bit of wrenching time.. this a couple beers and a cigar. The lil 250 banshee is often screaming her cylinder out doing 85 on the interstates or nearly pinned while off-road. Those initial miles though were pretty much doing the MotoTuneUSA method with a lot of hard acceleration and engine braking. Over the past 5 years I’ve likely owned close to a dozen WRRs flipping or parting them out and my ‘15 engine seems to be much stronger then many of the others I’ve bought since. I’ll be following the same procedure with the new Tenere 700 though may do changes at 50, 250 and 600. 
 

I have a couple gallons of YamaLube General Purpose here that I’ll likely use for the initial changes and at 600 switch to some YamaLube SS. Also ordered a few 5GH-13440-61-00 filters. 

 

PS.. heard my bike will be at the dealers on Monday. — Did I just get you all excited?!