Ok, let's get this over with. Whats your favorite oil?

[Cruizin]

7 minutes ago, Murska said:

Oil is a small cost when looking at the big picture, that’s why I don’t choose oil at a cheap price.

I use Castrol Power 1 10w50 oil, or Yamalube. T7 I change oils every 5000km.

But the cheaper Rotella actually tests out better than those, just keeping it level.  Its only cheaper because its so highly mass produced. Its quality is among the very best. 

[Mr.motarded]

The oil talk is so overwhelming.  I use and have always used rotella in my motorcycles i use it in my 250x actually 2- 250Rs and 2-250Xs my first 250x had 36,000 miles on it when i sold it and it still ran like a top, thats crazy good mileage on a single cylinder bike especially when there were rides on that bike where i was Wide open throttle for hours 

My 1st 250r had 12,000 miles on it when i tore it open to do a big bore and the internals still looked brand new. I used it in a ktm 500exe a 350exe a 690smc wr450f all bikes which i had the motors open for valve checks and everything always was in spec and looked new no sludge.  Most of the guys i ride with also use Rotella T6 in their bikes and i have never seen an issue with it. Id love to see someone show a failure due to using rotella.  

 

Rotella is the only oil ill ever use in my bikes even if it was 3x the cost. Ive done my research looked at ball and sheer tests against most top oils and rotella is always up there with the best. 

[Noel McCutcheon]

7 hours ago, Mr.motarded said:

....  T6..... if you dig deep it exceeds Yamaha specifications.   

Do not use diesel oil or higher specs oils that exceed!

Read Handbook, see pic below, Manufacture knows better than individuals. 

 

Japanese Motorcycles have wet clutches and 4 strokes ones have integrated gearbox's too. 
 

So/Hence as motorbike oils have less or no cleaning chemicals compared to diesel oils, less and or different additives for wet clutch and gearbox’s gears and bushes! Wet clutches and gearboxes don’t like diesel oil additives, hence notched bad gear shifts.

 

T6 may work, heck any oil even cooking oil will work, all oils works but 4 stroke motorcycle oilS work much much better.

Hehe, Rename thread tiny dollar pinching, hoho. I don’t get it for 20 bucks a few times a year on an $11000 bucks precision bike, it’s not a diesel. I am Never buying any overwhelmed owners bike 2nd-hand US bike.

It’s like > $11000 bike, cheap fuel which is crap, cheap tyres, pads and helmets too and harmful over spec’d wrong truck Oil it not good, its just not proper wet clutch motorbike oil.

 

[Noel McCutcheon]

11 hours ago, whisperquiet said:

I like motorcycle compatible oils and filters....all of them.

Yep, agree 100%, as 4 stroke Japanese bikes have wet clutches & integrated gearboxes. 
 

Diesel engines have dry clutches and a separate different gearbox oil.

HENCE Mr&Mrs Yamaha they say no no to higher spec or diesel oils 

[Cruizin]

58 minutes ago, X Plane said:

Yep, agree 100%, as 4 stroke Japanese bikes have wet clutches & integrated gearboxes. 
 

Diesel engines have dry clutches and a separate different gearbox oil.

HENCE Mr&Mrs Yamaha they say no no to higher spec or diesel oils 

Rotella is not specified CD . 

[Louis]

PENRITE here, a great Aussie brand! I normally wait for it to go on sale, so good price. Can buy from most auto suppliers with a multitude of grades from mineral to fully synthetic motorbike specific. 

[Jonas]

9 hours ago, Mr.motarded said:

I have used nothing but rotella T6 in all my bikes for years it will definitely be used it the T7. Its a great oil and if you dig deep it exceeds Yamaha specifications.  

Yamaha don't recommend oil that exceeds their specifications. Why?

[Jonas]

4 hours ago, Hogan said:

It says to not use diesel engine oils with the "CD" specification. It does not say to not use diesel engine oils at all.

 

"CD" is an obsolete Diesel engine oil specification. It shouldn't be used in modern diesel engines either.

 

You will find Rotella T6 meets several specifications, including JASO MA/MA2 which are motorcycle specific specifications.

http://shop.sclubricants.com/pub/media/pds/shell/Shell-Rotella-T6-5W-40-datasheet.pdf

 

The Tenere 700 service manual says SG or higher, or JASO MA. Which is what most all motorcycles will specify.

 

You would be hard pressed to find a modern non-Diesel engine oil that is not SG compatible, but the standard rule of making sure it's suitable for wet clutches still applies.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

In the data-sheet, no API-SG/SN are noted!

[Noel McCutcheon]

I’m with motorbike oils and Yamaha’s spec.

Not a mates speculation, lol.

[Mr.motarded]

[Noel McCutcheon]

3 hours ago, Cruizin said:

Rotella is not specified CD . 

Ah... there are still gears, a complete gearbox shift mechanism and a wet clutch in a CP2 Tenere 700; 

which are all not present in Diesel engines.... I’m sticky with motorbike oils.
 

You started this, . My granny is adamant that the internet and automatic washing machines will not catch on and she is sticking with 2 tins and string and river washing as it saves her from going to the appropriate recommended low studs powder and saves a full twenty cents every other week on dearer low suds washing powder. It’s your bike and her washing. She does love her high studs powder, lol, .

[r2r]

I've just solved a problem with Rotella for myself.

Prices in Poland:

Motul 4T 7100 10w40 -  38$    for 4 liters (about 1 gal)

Shell Rotella T6 5W40 -  56$   for 1 gal  (about 4 liters)

 

Until now I didn't know that I use cheap oil in all of my motorbikes ... 

 

 

 

Edited June 10, 2020 by r2r

[ScorpionT16]

Shell make a vast array of Motorcycle specific oil, if they intended Rotella to be used for bikes, they would brand it as such. They would have nothing to loose, saying it's cheap just because it's for trucks is not the case, its cheaper, because its cheap oil, not liquid gold priced at the cost of iron as most want to imagine. Not saying it doesn't work or is bad, just saying it's intended purpose is something entirely different.

 

Edited June 10, 2020 by ScorpionT16

[Subsea]

LOL, I'm an Amsoil guy

[Idarex]

Amsoil... by/buy the case

[Chalk]

Worked in the oil industry for 30 years, if the oil you use meets the spec it’s good enough.

brand is a personal thing, if you don’t believe me look at KTM and Husqvarna 

KTM tell you you have to use Moterex

Husqvarna tell you to use Belray.   Same engine. It’s just bullshit.

put what makes you feel happy in your bike as long as it meets the spec requirements your good. 

[Noel McCutcheon]

8 hours ago, Chalk said:

Worked in the oil industry for 30 years, if the oil you use meets the spec it’s good enough.

brand is a personal thing, if you don’t believe me look at KTM and Husqvarna 

KTM tell you you have to use Moterex

Husqvarna tell you to use Belray.   Same engine. It’s just bullshit.

put what makes you feel happy in your bike as long as it meets the spec requirements your good. 

Agree. I use the correct spec motorbike oil (regardless of brand) and the main point here is that diesel oil is not in the right spec, some say beyond, but the point is diesel oil is not in the spec. The manufactures specialty states to not use diesel oil - wet clutch and diesel chemical cleaning agents reasons are good enough for to spend a few more pounds / dollars for the right motorbike oil spec, regardless of brand.

[Cruizin]

14 minutes ago, X Plane said:

Agree. I use the correct spec motorbike oil (regardless of brand) and the main point here is that diesel oil is not in the right spec, some say beyond, but the point is diesel oil is not in the spec. The manufactures specialty states to not use diesel oil - wet clutch and diesel chemical cleaning agents reasons are good enough for to spend a few more pounds / dollars for the right motorbike oil spec, regardless of brand.

You do see the tactic I use to get more posts on the forum, right?  Nothing like a good oil debate to boost the forum post count. 

 

I would use Motul 7100, but it's freaking expensive here in the States.  If I can find a decent price on Yamalube semi synthetic 1050, then thats what I'll use. for good. And the Castrol semi synthetic is actually pretty good stuff.

 

Truth be told, Honda Pro HP 4 is among the best oil you can put into a bike. 

 

Redline is excellent oil. 

 

On my 1984 V 65 Magna, there was no such thing as Motorcycle specific oil.  I dumped 30 weight Valvoline car oil in it and that damn bike had 93,000 miles on it when I sold it to a kid at Fort Lewis, Washington in 1994. Ran awesome, as long as I kept the valves in spec.   We put 30 weight car oil in all of our bikes back then.  Maybe that's why I'm not so bought into the importance of "Factory specified" motorcycle oils.  I and everyone I knew ran the piss out of our bikes before those oils even existed, just fine. And back then, we were running purple leaded gas, to boot! 

 

If anyone finds great deals on Yamalube semi synthetic or Honda Pro HP 4 in the United States, please let me know. 

 

 

[scridercoach]

I say use what you want... it's your bike.  

 

That being said, I use Motul.  Is it more expensive in the States?  Sure.  But look at how often you change oil vs. how often you  put in fuel.  Break down the per mile cost.  Paying a little more for an oil you prefer is not that cost prohibitive in the long run.  I may be imagining things, but when I use a quote "quality oil" unqoute, with esther in it, I feel that my clutch and gearbox feel smoother. 

 

To each their own.

 

Again, it's your bike, so who really cares?

Edited June 10, 2020 by scridercoach

[Cruizin]

Just got off phone with dealer. They want $300 for the 600 mile service.   

[whisperquiet]

21 minutes ago, Cruizin said:

Just got off phone with dealer. They want $300 for the 600 mile service.   

My personally serviced T7 will cost me about $20.00 for one Yamaha oil filter

and 2.75 qts of Yamalube + one hour of my time to check things over.  (When

I eventually take possession of my ordered T7).

 

And, to step gently into never ending oil threads......will use whatever oil meets 

JASO specs and HiFloFiltro/Yamaha oil filters from then on.  I have never had a clutch

slip or an engine failure from any oil used in the last 49 years ...... and, I ride a lot.

Edited June 10, 2020 by whisperquiet

[Cruizin]

1 minute ago, whisperquiet said:

My personally serviced T7 will cost me about $20.00 for one Yamaha oil filter

and 2.75 qts of Yamalube + one hour of my time to check things over.  (When

I eventually take possession of my ordered T7).

Don't forget the throttle body sync, the first one is the most important. 

[whisperquiet]

16 minutes ago, Cruizin said:

Don't forget the throttle body sync, the first one is the most important. 

I’ll get out the now unavailable Motion Pro mercury sticks.  I hope the T7 is as easy as my Super Tenere.

[Noel McCutcheon]

1 hour ago, Cruizin said:

Don't forget the throttle body sync, the first one is the most important. 

1 hour ago, whisperquiet said:

I’ll get out the now unavailable Motion Pro mercury sticks.  I hope the T7 is as easy as my Super Tenere.

Super Tenere as in 750 or 1200? Good luck with T7. Keep us posted on the T7 sync.

[Brownie]

 

Yamalube Advantage

 

20 years, 100,000 miles, 5,000 hrs guarantee, register and service yourself with yamalube and yamaha filter. $20/gal $11/filter.

 

They are pretty sure that engines only need clean oil at the appropriate level.  So am I.  The program is also transferable.  I've owned bikes for 20 years, but who among us has put in 100,000 miles on a single bike?

 

Also, that traxxion parity video was so spot on.

 

Edited June 11, 2020 by Brownie