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Ok, let's get this over with. Whats your favorite oil?


Cruizin

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I had to get first change done at 450 Miles as I was heading to Spain to ride to the Med', so upon my return, with 1750 Miles total, I decided to change Oil again because it is inexpensive ( total £55 ) and 'good practice', and did it myself ( 30 Mins ) using Yamalube Full Synthetic 10/40 with fresh filter, as engine now well bedded in.

 

Easy job, I will now run Yamalube Full Synthetic, just because it makes me feel I am doing the best for the machine in the long run..

 

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6 hours ago, whisperquiet said:

This is by far my favorite motor oil.

 

 

540EEAC9-8A1B-4291-993D-077998D985FF.jpeg

must be 4 stroke oil.....cos there's 4 of 'em

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  • 2 months later...

So... What are the thoughts on switching from full-synthetic to conventional?

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30 minutes ago, loneranger700 said:

So... What are the thoughts on switching from full-synthetic to conventional?

Break in oil is conventional, crappy hard gear change, first service dealer used yamalube semi, gear change improvement but not so much, @ 3500km I changed to Penrite full synthetic, much smoother gear change quite a difference, I wouldn't go back to conventional or semi, that's been my experience, others my differ.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Just tested my brand new pickup truck engine, the T7 as well. I've been trending oil analysis for years. 

Helps to catch problems BEFORE the engine soils the sheets. 

The most costly oil, and testing is cheap compared to repairs.

https://www.blackstone-labs.com/?session-id=pmymwn45wzdxbfibyx14aevp&timeout=20&bslauth&urlbase=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.blackstone-labs.net%2FBstone%2F(S(pmymwn45wzdxbfibyx14aevp))%2F

Edited by concours
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  • 2 weeks later...
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On 2/4/2021 at 5:44 PM, concours said:

Just tested my brand new pickup truck engine, the T7 as well. I've been trending oil analysis for years. 

Helps to catch problems BEFORE the engine soils the sheets. 

The most costly oil, and testing is cheap compared to repairs.

https://www.blackstone-labs.com/?session-id=pmymwn45wzdxbfibyx14aevp&timeout=20&bslauth&urlbase=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.blackstone-labs.net%2FBstone%2F(S(pmymwn45wzdxbfibyx14aevp))%2F

What were  the T7 results. Please Post the report please 

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  • 9 months later...
On 2/14/2021 at 10:32 AM, X Plane said:

What were  the T7 results. Please Post the report please 

 

48398FB8-6304-4E4A-A753-35B51264BE65.jpeg

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On 6/14/2020 at 10:15 AM, Hogan said:

 

This is another common misunderstanding, that motorcycles having an integrated gear box makes a difference. Most all engines contain some kind of gear train, heavy diesel engines even more.  API CD grade engine oil is actually a specified lubricant for some Road Ranger transmissions.  😉

Yes, but truck transmissions dont run a wet clutch or temps over 100c/212f (usually).

 

We ask a lot from the oil in a motorcycle engine, and I think the recommended service intervals from manufacturers is a joke. That figure is about marketing. Use good oil with no friction modifiers (there are standards like Jaso MA) and replace regularly depending on use. If you are touring then you can extend out to the recommended mileage on occasion. If thrashing around in the bush, getting hot and lots of clutch work, then much more often. If you have notchy gear changes or a slipping clutch then a change of oil type (semi to/from synthetic) can help. 

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On 2/5/2021 at 4:44 AM, concours said:

Just tested my brand new pickup truck engine, the T7 as well. I've been trending oil analysis for years. 

Helps to catch problems BEFORE the engine soils the sheets. 

The most costly oil, and testing is cheap compared to repairs.

https://www.blackstone-labs.com/?session-id=pmymwn45wzdxbfibyx14aevp&timeout=20&bslauth&urlbase=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.blackstone-labs.net%2FBstone%2F(S(pmymwn45wzdxbfibyx14aevp))%2F

Concours, what are your findings on oil extended out past 6 to 10 thousand hard miles (off-road for example)? Would be good to know exactly what is happening to the oil at those intervals.

 

I noticed the particulates and viscosity in your results are below optimal even at 3600 miles. Have you seen that get worse at longer intervals?

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21 minutes ago, TimeMachine said:

Concours, what are your findings on oil extended out past 6 to 10 thousand hard miles (off-road for example)? Would be good to know exactly what is happening to the oil at those intervals.

 

I noticed the particulates and viscosity in your results are below optimal even at 3600 miles. Have you seen that get worse at longer intervals?

I do not use oil analysis  to allow extended drain intervals, rather, to see if there is an impending disaster to be averted. 

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The thing about the MA rating is it costs the manufacturers money to get certified. 
I’ve been a Rotella guy for years. 
T6 rotella works and is available everywhere and kinda cheap. 
Biggest thing is have enough oil and change it somewhat frequently. 
Modern oils are light years better than 30 years ago. 
Oil related failures are almost non existent. 

Edited by mpatch
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On 12/9/2021 at 10:03 PM, mpatch said:

The thing about the MA rating is it costs the manufacturers money to get certified. 
I’ve been a Rotella guy for years. 
T6 rotella works and is available everywhere and kinda cheap. 
Biggest thing is have enough oil and change it somewhat frequently. 
Modern oils are light years better than 30 years ago. 
Oil related failures are almost non existent. 

Unfortunately, that is a far too simplistic view, and faith in engineers is folly. 

 

Here is an example of a vehicle with a widely known (in the circle of enthusiasts) pattern failure, it began showing drivability symptoms. I used an oil sample to CONFIRM my suspicion, and pre-order parts, take the vehicle out of service and repair it on MY schedule (Sunday afternoon) and have it back in reliable service. Despite the lab's recommendation to keep running, I knew what was happening. AS OPPOSED TO, Opening the engine up, confirming the damage, ordering parts, and enduring significant down time. The oil analysis fee was the best money I could have spent. Camshaft, lifters, bearings all toast. :shock:1153032984_TDIcamfailure.thumb.jpg.d0b0eeb68b8e417dae151c4d240974ac.jpg1687962085_TDIcamshaftfailed.thumb.jpg.ad765f534dba6e6f19245649a90c6e5c.jpg879725253_TDILIFTERSFAILEDx.thumb.jpg.fc56c8e9e2315844d29bc9ce95bb2f4f.jpg

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17 hours ago, concours said:

Unfortunately, that is a far too simplistic view, and faith in engineers is folly. 

 

Here is an example of a vehicle with a widely known (in the circle of enthusiasts) pattern failure, it began showing drivability symptoms. I used an oil sample to CONFIRM my suspicion, and pre-order parts, take the vehicle out of service and repair it on MY schedule (Sunday afternoon) and have it back in reliable service. Despite the lab's recommendation to keep running, I knew what was happening. AS OPPOSED TO, Opening the engine up, confirming the damage, ordering parts, and enduring significant down time. The oil analysis fee was the best money I could have spent. Camshaft, lifters, bearings all toast. :shock:1153032984_TDIcamfailure.thumb.jpg.d0b0eeb68b8e417dae151c4d240974ac.jpg1687962085_TDIcamshaftfailed.thumb.jpg.ad765f534dba6e6f19245649a90c6e5c.jpg879725253_TDILIFTERSFAILEDx.thumb.jpg.fc56c8e9e2315844d29bc9ce95bb2f4f.jpg

So what was the failure and was it oil related?

By oil related I mean the oil itself was a cause of the failure. 

 

ETA: after looking a the pics a bit more top end wasn't getting oil?

 

Edited by mpatch
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On 6/13/2020 at 8:15 PM, Hogan said:

 

This is another common misunderstanding, that motorcycles having an integrated gear box makes a difference. Most all engines contain some kind of gear train, heavy diesel engines even more.  API CD grade engine oil is actually a specified lubricant for some Road Ranger transmissions.  😉

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

....but they don't have wet clutches in Cummins. 

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4 hours ago, Hogan said:

 

 

 

I was talking about gears and the misconception that 'motorcycle specific' oil is required because motorcycle engines have gears in them. I never mentioned in the post you quoted anything about clutches. And neither did the guy I was responding to.

 

I did mentioned earlier that the only things you need to consider are:

1) the oil meets the grade specified by the manufacturer (JASO, API, etc)

2) The oil doesn't contain friction modifiers that will interfere with the wet clutch.


So try and pay attention you two...

 

 

Haha, no problem Hogan. I wasn't really referring to your comment in particular. I was emphasising the point that motorcycle oils do have special needs, which is what XPlane was trying to convey without going into a dissertation. Perhaps we all got triggered.

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I stopped using T6 5w40 because shift quality degrades after 4000km. What a waste of time and money.

 

Mobil 1 4t didn’t  degrade after 8000km.

 

 

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Any 10W40 semi synthetic that meets the spec at the moment it's yamalube getting it for a good price.

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In my other bikes i always use(d) Motorex Top speed 4T and planning on using it also in the T7 when it's due.

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Hey.

 

On my old Tenere 660 2013 and the my new T7 I use the Yamaha oil "yamalube" 10W-40, works great is cheap and I make my oil changes often than the manual says(cause its cheap), great result so far.

 

There is even a cheaper presentation here:

 

approximate 4.71 USD  per 1 Liter

 

Caja 12 Lts Aceite Yamalube 10w 40 Mineral Multigrado | Meses sin intereses

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On 6/13/2020 at 8:15 PM, Hogan said:

 

This is another common misunderstanding, that motorcycles having an integrated gear box makes a difference. Most all engines contain some kind of gear train, heavy diesel engines even more.  API CD grade engine oil is actually a specified lubricant for some Road Ranger transmissions.  😉

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Pretty sure YOU misunderstand the common misunderstanding. It's the wet clutches that are the difference. 
Sometimes even people that are paying attention can't understand what they are seeing/hearing.😴

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On 12/20/2021 at 1:17 AM, Hogan said:

 

 

 

 

 

Please, tell me more about how I misunderstand the importance of the wet clutch.

 

 

 

 

"Another" - pronoun - a different person or thing from one already mentioned or known about.

 

Is English your first language?

 

 

I humbly fold my tent & bow to your clearly superior Armchair Engineer knowledge, and obvious vast oil-thread experience. 🧠

 

 

 

 

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On 12/14/2021 at 11:55 AM, TimeMachine said:

Haha, no problem Hogan. I wasn't really referring to your comment in particular. I was emphasising the point that motorcycle oils do have special needs, which is what XPlane was trying to convey without going into a dissertation. Perhaps we all got triggered.

Thanks ^ Yes, I was (badly) trying to highlight that yeah motorcycle oils specifically cater for all particular special needs of motorcycle. That’s my upstanding that I am content with. Cheers.

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  • 1 year later...

Ohhhhhh yeah!!! 

Let's bump this thread after people have been using the bike for a couple years. 

Looking at switching g up from yammy oil and seeing if people have changed their options. I've read great things about Motul 7100 in bikes and thinking of switching to that now that the bike is broken in. 

 

FIGHT!

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