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Rally suspension Installed 230+mm front and rear suspension.


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Flyinbrianbmx

Yesterday I installed both the front and rear rally suspension from Rally Raid.uk. these things are awesome. Install was 5/5 difficultly imo, but I'm really happy I managed to figure everything out with zero instructions, taking apart the first fork leg was the true test, after I figured it out the second for leg took 30ish minutes. This bike is such a joy to work on compared to what I've had in past! If you have any questions let me know! The bike is literally 36inch seat height with the rally seat also, going to take some getting used to.

 

 

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I’ve got the RR extreme suspension 200mm.  I installed the shock last Saturday.  I was waiting for RR to post a how to vid on YouTube before I tackled the fork install.  Maybe I’ll quit waiting and just attempt the install.

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Flyinbrianbmx
8 hours ago, Idarex said:

I’ve got the RR extreme suspension 200mm.  I installed the shock last Saturday.  I was waiting for RR to post a how to vid on YouTube before I tackled the fork install.  Maybe I’ll quit waiting and just attempt the install.

It's fairly easy once I figured it out but, here's a brief summary. you will need that fancy blue tool that rally raid sells to unlock the open cartridge from the fork though!!!! (at least I did, I don't know how, but people have done it without it though. this is a write up if you have that tool. you will also need a 19mm hex tool for taking off the front wheel, if you don't have one they're sort of hard to get in person you'll probably have to order one.)

 

1) put all your compression and rebound setting to the lowest settings. take off the front wheel, undo all the bolts on the fender to free the tubes, and take the abs off on the left fork.

 

2) then while the forks are still in the triple clamp loosen the top cap a good amount till you can spin it with your fingers. loosen both the top caps.

 

3) then loosen the triple clamps top

and bottom on just one fork and take it off the bike.

 

4) undo the top cap completely and drain the oil into a bucket. 

 

5) grip the spring and compress it down and use a wrench to grab the nut below the top cap. loosen the top cap till it comes completely off. flip the fork upside-down in the bucket again, the spring and damping rod should fall out.

 

6) loosen the bolt to take off the "white plastic spring filler" (no idea the proper name for that but you'll know what I'm talking about when you have it apart.)

 

7) take the CLEANED rally raid tool and lock it down in the fork tube, use a 15mm hex tool on the bottom of the fork and loosen the lower section of the cartridge from the fork. it should come apart pretty easy, I did it alone but if you have a friend even better!

 

😎 take the 15mm and loosen the bolt on the bottom of the fork, (this part was a pain for me because it just kept spinning and spinning. I realized that if you just stick a long extension in the fork you can push it out easily after it's loosened.)

 

9) the fork should be completely empty now, take the new cartridge shock (or whatever you got) and slide it in, tighten the bolt on the bottom of the fork. 

 

10) they make special tools you could use for checking the level of oil with the spring still installed (sort of like a straw that has measurements on it, you overfill it and suck the oil back out) but I decided to take the spring off the new cartridge so I could check the proper levels by sticking a ruler inside the fork. slide the spring down grab the bolt below the top cap loosen the top cap and the spring will come out. fill with oil 100mm-105mm below the top. and reinstall the spring and top cap. slide the gold tube up and hand tighten the top cap. Install back in the triple tree so you can really tighten the top cap.

 

11)repeat for the other side.

 

that's the best I could describe it. if you have any questions let me know!

Edited by Flyinbrianbmx
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Flyinbrianbmx
2 hours ago, Cruizin said:

That would have made a great tech tip in our tech tip section. 

You’re right :/ my bad 

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Goldentaco

Are you in the US?

How does it ride compared to stock?

This article discusses some changes made to the NA market bikes so the suspension reviews of Euro/Aus bikes may be read with a caveat.

Yamaha-Tenere-700-dirt.jpg

The Yamaha Tenere 700 represents a lot of great potential for the future of adventure land wrapped in a dependable, affordable Yamaha blanket.

 

 

 

I feel like the High speed damping stock is way too stiff and the clickers just move the High and Low speed together stiffer or softer.  Getting the high speed soft/compliant enough makes the Low speed too soft.  I tend to prefer stiffer Low speed and softer High speed.

 

J

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Flyinbrianbmx
5 hours ago, Goldentaco said:

Are you in the US?

How does it ride compared to stock?

This article discusses some changes made to the NA market bikes so the suspension reviews of Euro/Aus bikes may be read with a caveat.

Yamaha-Tenere-700-dirt.jpg

The Yamaha Tenere 700 represents a lot of great potential for the future of adventure land wrapped in a dependable, affordable Yamaha blanket.

 

 

 

I feel like the High speed damping stock is way too stiff and the clickers just move the High and Low speed together stiffer or softer.  Getting the high speed soft/compliant enough makes the Low speed too soft.  I tend to prefer stiffer Low speed and softer High speed.

 

J

Honestly I ride freestyle bmx so I’m used to no shocks rough landing on everything, haha. Right now, honestly I’m just turning everything all the way up and clicking it down a little bit at a time till it feels good. STUPID and not the right way, I know, but one day I’ll figure it out.
 

That being said they are significantly better than stock for sure regardless, I took it off a few little jumps and it doesn’t bottom out now! but whether or not I could of just bought springs and gotten the same effect idk. Just being honest. Still happy about that extra inch of ground clearance though! 😉 
 

I've never had a shock with lows and highs so give me a little bit and I’ll figure it out but right now I have no idea honestly! Give me a month and I’ll respond back appropriately haha. 

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Can you please review how the suspension is working off-road? I have done pretty extreme stuff with the stock suspension but it deflects a lot on steps and rocks when at speed.

 

What are your impressions?

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Flyinbrianbmx
On 7/21/2020 at 11:25 AM, powder said:

Can you please review how the suspension is working off-road? I have done pretty extreme stuff with the stock suspension but it deflects a lot on steps and rocks when at speed.

 

What are your impressions?

I did 120 miles of off-road yesterday and really got a chance to dial stuff in. I can confidently say these are way better than stock. Didn't bottom out 1 time and they glide over rough terrain, the stock suspension isn't even in the same field. I feel like this suspension alone has made me a better rider and significantly more confident. 

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  • 6 months later...
Tomás Longo
On 7/26/2020 at 6:53 PM, Flyinbrianbmx said:

I did 120 miles of off-road yesterday and really got a chance to dial stuff in. I can confidently say these are way better than stock. Didn't bottom out 1 time and they glide over rough terrain, the stock suspension isn't even in the same field. I feel like this suspension alone has made me a better rider and significantly more confident. 

how's the preload adjustment made? it says that it has no hydraulic adjuster on their website. is it easy to do on the go? i'm a complete newbie when it comes to suspension adjustment 

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Ktmmitch
2 hours ago, Tomás Longo said:

how's the preload adjustment made? it says that it has no hydraulic adjuster on their website. is it easy to do on the go? i'm a complete newbie when it comes to suspension adjustment 

The Preload adjustment on the 230mm travel rally shock is done conventionally, using the threaded locking ring above the shock spring, this can be accessed easily, and the ring can be turned using the special multi-tool supplied.

we decided not to go with hydraulic Preload adjustment, as it was very difficult to allow room for it, and still offer a wide range of spring rates, with the longer stroke shock, and most riders opting for the higher off road performance rally suspension are not carrying passengers or lots of luggage, do once you have achieved the correct sag it very rarely needs adjusting.

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Tomás Longo
1 minute ago, Ktmmitch said:

The Preload adjustment on the 230mm travel rally shock is done conventionally, using the threaded locking ring above the shock spring, this can be accessed easily, and the ring can be turned using the special multi-tool supplied.

we decided not to go with hydraulic Preload adjustment, as it was very difficult to allow room for it, and still offer a wide range of spring rates, with the longer stroke shock, and most riders opting for the higher off road performance rally suspension are not carrying passengers or lots of luggage, do once you have achieved the correct sag it very rarely needs adjusting.

Thanks man, appreciated

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