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Break-in oil level


JDCooper

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400 miles on the bike as of today. The "delivery" oil level was well above the top of the sightgage on my bike. A friend who picked up his bike at the same time as I has the same issue. I suctioned a quart out, and it's STILL above the sight glass. Is this something related to break-in prior to the 600 mi. oil change?  Perplexed....

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I just did the 1000km oil change and noticed the factory fill was more than the recommended 2.6 l, it was approximately 2.9 l (the oil window  was showing full).

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12 hours ago, JDCooper said:

400 miles on the bike as of today. The "delivery" oil level was well above the top of the sightgage on my bike. A friend who picked up his bike at the same time as I has the same issue. I suctioned a quart out, and it's STILL above the sight glass. Is this something related to break-in prior to the 600 mi. oil change?  Perplexed....

The level should be about 3/4 between the two marks in the sight glass.

Did you check the level shortly after running which you should  OR  did you check the level after the bike had been sitting more than say 3 hours?

 

At delivery mine was 3/4 between the marks,  I did notice later checking after it ran it was at the top line in the sight glass...may have been the non-pavement where the bike was parked the 2nd time.

Edited by ADVUSA
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That seems like way too much oil. 
Mine was right at the top of the sight glass gauge.

 

There is nothing wrong with you doing your oil change now and setting the level correctly. 

Tazmool

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Mine, when I checked after the 1000 km revision, did have the level very very high. I removed the drain bolt carefully to reach the correct level and measuring the excess of oil I did obtained 600 cc (more than half a liter).

There are clueless people everywhere....

Teneré 700 '20

WR250R '10

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As said 3/4 is right otherwise too much causes the clutch to drag too much and a hard clunk into first gear and can blow oil past the seals

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So I'm at 200 miles and I can say without a doubt this is the worst shifting bike I've ever owned. I have to slam the shifter down to down shift, especially first gear. Most of the time it just wont shift and I have to let the clutch out a little bit and then shift otherwise when Im hitting the shifter it wont budge. Upshifting isn't as bad. 

 

So all that said I saw Matth say too much oil and it might be clunky in 1st. Well I went to check, warmed up the engine and let it sit and the oil is way above the glass. So could that be the problem? 

 

I'm going to do my first oil change tomorrow at 200 miles, not the filter and fill it up to the correct amount and then again at 1,000 for easy math. 

Edited by johnnygolucky
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Mine was the same however i knew that these things need gentle running in . I changed the oil to fully synthetic after 1000 miles also and lowered the oil levels to 2/3rds up. 

The gearbox has a particular characteristic where as if you go from 6 down to 1 or two whilst stationary it will just stop however if you change down whilst moving , engine speed relative to moving speed it selects nicely.  I think the selection fork is tight on the shaft from new so don't force it, let it bed in over time as its a very well built hardy engine that is probably capable of doing 100k plus

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@johnnygolucky

My shifting was a little clunky at first.

I changed the break-in oil at 585 mi. put in the standard 10-40w mineral base Yamalube and new filter.

At 1400 mi. I changed to 10-40w full synthetic Hi-Performance Yamalube and new filter. (shifts like a different bike)

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On 8/16/2020 at 8:22 PM, JDCooper said:

400 miles on the bike as of today. The "delivery" oil level was well above the top of the sightgage on my bike. A friend who picked up his bike at the same time as I has the same issue. I suctioned a quart out, and it's STILL above the sight glass. Is this something related to break-in prior to the 600 mi. oil change?  Perplexed....

My t7 from factory has the oil level above the sight glass witch is much more oil level that max level recommended for oil change. 

 

It has now 200 miles through break in period and gearbox changes are smooth. 

 

I have read few people with the same issue. 

 

Careless worker engine factory? 

Break in oil level? 

Transport engine preservation oil level? 

 

Anyone more with the same issue? 

 

Anyway I am dropping a few amount of oil just for peace of mind. 

 

 

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40 minutes ago, Anibal said:

My t7 from factory has the oil level above the sight glass witch is much more oil level that max level recommended for oil change. 

 

It has now 200 miles through break in period and gearbox changes are smooth. 

 

I have read few people with the same issue. 

 

Careless worker engine factory? 

Break in oil level? 

Transport engine preservation oil level? 

 

Anyone more with the same issue? 

 

Anyway I am dropping a few amount of oil just for peace of mind. 

 

 

I would have a few words with the dealer. This is one of the Pre Delivery Inspection items on EVERY dealer's checklist. Mine came to the dealer (I was there when they un-boxed it) with a level that was slightly low on the sightglass. I watched my dealer top it up. The dealer is supposed to correct that level - high or low.

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I think I have Yamaha disease...

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I ‘ve changed my oil and filter three times......600, 4000, and 8000 miles, and used Yamalube 10w40 with Yamaha filters for the service as it is still under warranty.  The oil level always shows at the very top of the window when checked and filled with the amount of oil required by Yamaha.   It shifts great and absolutely no problems have been noted.

 

I will be going to 5000 mile change intervals after it is out of warranty......it seems everywhere but the USA, the owners manual shows 10000 kilometers or 6000 miles.  I compromise and split the difference at 5000 miles.  I do the same on my Super Tenere and Tracer 900 GT.

Edited by whisperquiet
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100-200 ml needed to be removed to take the oil to a proper level. The gearbox continuous working nicely. 

 

By the way, what an easy location has the oil drain bolt. It just effortless to remove and install. 

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Guys.
What oil is filled from the factory on a new bike? (mineral or semi-synthetic?)
And what kind of oil should I put in if I want to change it at 200 miles?
Because at 1000 miles I want to go full synthetic.
Edited by AlexFriedland
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@AlexFriedland Mineral based oil is used for the break-in interval.  How long that is depends on the individual owner, but the owners manual states 1,000 miles.  Most owners run a mineral based oil until completing the break -in period, so your desire to run synthetic oil after that falls in line with what many of us do.

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"Men do not quit playing because they grow old, they grow old because they quit playing" Oliver Wendell Holmes - Mods - HDB handguards, Camel-ADV Gut guard, 1 finger clutch, The Fix pedal & Rally pipe, RR side/tail rack, RR 90nm spring & Headlight guard, Rally seat, OEM heated grips- stablemate Beta 520RS

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On 8/18/2020 at 4:53 AM, Matth said:

Mine was the same however i knew that these things need gentle running in . I changed the oil to fully synthetic after 1000 miles also and lowered the oil levels to 2/3rds up. 

The gearbox has a particular characteristic where as if you go from 6 down to 1 or two whilst stationary it will just stop however if you change down whilst moving , engine speed relative to moving speed it selects nicely.  I think the selection fork is tight on the shaft from new so don't force it, let it bed in over time as its a very well built hardy engine that is probably capable of doing 100k plus

No motorcycle (dog box) is designed to be able to go down through so many gears whilst stationary. The gear dogs need movement to align so as each ratio can be selected. 
You should be down shifting through the gears as you come to a stop.

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11 minutes ago, Buggy Nate said:

No motorcycle (dog box) is designed to be able to go down through so many gears whilst stationary. The gear dogs need movement to align so as each ratio can be selected. 
You should be down shifting through the gears as you come to a stop.

Same as every bike I’ve owned. I have a rekluse in a couple of bikes and sometimes I get lazy and don’t downshift when stopping which can be a bit finicky to get back into first. 
 

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I just got my 2022 a couple weeks ago, seems like they still come from the factory with too much oil.  Even running the sight window was past full.  After resting the bike for about 10 minutes or so, you could tip it pretty far away from the window and still see it full.  Needless to say I changed the oil pretty quick.

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On 8/16/2020 at 8:58 PM, johnnygolucky said:

So I'm at 200 miles and I can say without a doubt this is the worst shifting bike I've ever owned. I have to slam the shifter down to down shift, especially first gear. Most of the time it just wont shift and I have to let the clutch out a little bit and then shift otherwise when Im hitting the shifter it wont budge. Upshifting isn't as bad. 

 

So all that said I saw Matth say too much oil and it might be clunky in 1st. Well I went to check, warmed up the engine and let it sit and the oil is way above the glass. So could that be the problem? 

 

I'm going to do my first oil change tomorrow at 200 miles, not the filter and fill it up to the correct amount and then again at 1,000 for easy math. 


what was result after oil change?

is transmission downshifting better?

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@EnduroRdr, this was a big discussion some time ago, with many unimpressed initially with the gear shift. It gets (much) better after the oil change AND more miles are put on. I find it a really smooth box. 
also don’t forget the oil level is checked a few minutes after running and switching off. 👍

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On 8/16/2020 at 6:58 PM, johnnygolucky said:

So I'm at 200 miles and I can say without a doubt this is the worst shifting bike I've ever owned. I have to slam the shifter down to down shift, especially first gear. Most of the time it just wont shift and I have to let the clutch out a little bit and then shift otherwise when Im hitting the shifter it wont budge. Upshifting isn't as bad. 

 

So all that said I saw Matth say too much oil and it might be clunky in 1st. Well I went to check, warmed up the engine and let it sit and the oil is way above the glass. So could that be the problem? 

 

I'm going to do my first oil change tomorrow at 200 miles, not the filter and fill it up to the correct amount and then again at 1,000 for easy math. 

Got an update on this for us? Assuming the oil change and more miles smoothed out the shifting?

 

"Men do not quit playing because they grow old, they grow old because they quit playing" Oliver Wendell Holmes - Mods - HDB handguards, Camel-ADV Gut guard, 1 finger clutch, The Fix pedal & Rally pipe, RR side/tail rack, RR 90nm spring & Headlight guard, Rally seat, OEM heated grips- stablemate Beta 520RS

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18 hours ago, EnduroRdr said:


what was result after oil change?

is transmission downshifting better?

5 hours ago, AZJW said:

Got an update on this for us? Assuming the oil change and more miles smoothed out the shifting?

Took about 1,500 miles before shifting got a lot smoother. Changed the oil at 200, 600 and then went synthetic at 1,500. 

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