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Yamaha Ténéré 700 chain mate


Adventure6965

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Not meaning to highjack your thread, but can anyone with a centre stand tell me how you ascertain the correct chain tension whilst on the centre stand. I measure from under the chain slider (underneath the swing arm) to the centre of the link and push down on the chain with a little pressure. If the chain is just hanging, the measurement is about 42mm, but if I push/pull down with a little force its around 46mm.

 

I know the manual says to do it on the side stand, but I prefer to do it on the centre stand. Ive had plenty of bike in the past with chains, I wasn’t so anal about tension (within manufacturers spec) but due to the extreme angle and sprocket height difference on the T7, chain tension is very important if you dont want to bugger up the Sprocket shaft seal and bearing.  Is this how most of you guys do it, or do you adjust the chain and measure with the chain just hanging loose by gravity?

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I guess set your proper chain tension while on the side stand, then put bike up on to the center stand and measure that distance. That will be your measurement in the future. I have an OEM center stand, and is my method. 

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2 hours ago, Adventure6965 said:

Today I made a "Chain Mate"(R). I basically made it to the minimum & maximum chain tension measurements of 43mm & 48mm. You just slip it between the swing arm & chain at the end of the chain slider where Yamaha states to measure chain tension. Simples. It weighs virtually nothing & can be stored under the seat. You could also drill a hole in one corner & attach a key ring to it if you wanted.

 

 

Manual says that you need to  measure between the guard and the center of the chain  

 

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35 minutes ago, Richo said:

Manual says that you need to  measure between the guard and the center of the chain  

 

Yes it does & it also says to push the chain down with your fingers. This is very vague as how much pressure you put on it gives a different measurement. To me this leaves the chain too tight so I'm going with no pressure & letting my gauge slide in. If you wanted you could always deduct the thickness of half the chain from what I've done. I'd rather it was a little bit loose than too tight which can damage engine internals. 

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1 hour ago, Adventure6965 said:

Yes it does & it also says to push the chain down with your fingers. This is very vague as how much pressure you put on it gives a different measurement. To me this leaves the chain too tight so I'm going with no pressure & letting my gauge slide in. If you wanted you could always deduct the thickness of half the chain from what I've done. I'd rather it was a little bit loose than too tight which can damage engine internals. 

 

43/48 mm seems too tight for me (and for the dealer) too

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21 minutes ago, Richo said:

 

43/48 mm seems too tight for me (and for the dealer) too

I wonder if there was a typo in the translation from Japanese to english. Maybe it should be 53-58mm ?🤔 a good way to check would be to remove the shock & see how much the tension changes with the movement of the swing arm. I might give that a try.

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4 hours ago, Adventure6965 said:

Today I made a "Chain Mate"(R). I basically made it to the minimum & maximum chain tension measurements of 43mm & 48mm. You just slip it between the swing arm & chain at the end of the chain slider where Yamaha states to measure chain tension. Simples. It weighs virtually nothing & can be stored under the seat. You could also drill a hole in one corner & attach a key ring to it if you wanted.

 

The correct measurement is from the end of the chain guide edge. Having that into account and adding another 4 mm for the middle of the chain, we have a difference of 14 mm respect to the recommnedation of 43/48 mm.

 

 

tensar-cadena.jpg

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Teneré 700 '20

WR250R '10

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26 minutes ago, Ol'crazy said:

 

The correct measurement is from the end of the chain guide edge. Having that into account and adding another 4 mm for the middle of the chain, we have a difference of 14 mm respect to the recommnedation of 43/48 mm.

 

 

tensar-cadena.jpg

If you deduct 4mm as I measured mine at 8mm then my gauge would be 39mm minimum & 44mm maximum.  I definitely won't be tentioning my chain that tight. I think this is such a gray area.

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If you put you gauge under the swing arm, butting up against the rubber chain guide and resting on the top of the chain, each gauge would be correct according to the manual (as that says measure to the centre of the chain, from the underside of the cain guide). 

 

I did a measurement both on the side stand and the centre stand and the measurements are almost identical, if you unload the rear suspension on the side stand, as suggested in the manual. 

 

If you have the OEM chain/sprocket guide fitted, bear in mind that restricts the chain from sagging. 

 

I knocked up a alloy  chain gauge tool too this afternoon 👍

Edited by Alf Meister
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39 minutes ago, Adventure6965 said:

If you deduct 4mm as I measured mine at 8mm then my gauge would be 39mm minimum & 44mm maximum.  I definitely won't be tentioning my chain that tight. I think this is such a gray area.

 

What I try to say is that the measurement must be done from point a to b, resulting in less tension than using your method.

 

 

tensar-cadena-2.jpg

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Teneré 700 '20

WR250R '10

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22 minutes ago, Ol'crazy said:

 

What I try to say is that the measurement must be done from point a to b, resulting in less tension than using your method.

 

 

tensar-cadena-2.jpg

I understand you completely. I just think the chain is too tight then....🙂👍

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Seems so to me, too. I'm glad someone's asking this question. The recommended numbers are adequate IF where the swingarm sits, while resting on side stand, the chain is stretched  as far as it will ever need to be along the up and down arc/ travel of rear wheel. 

Edited by ahamay
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Really everyone do not over think this. Best is loose but not extremely loose. Use some common sense here. BTW the front counter shaft sprocket teeth count is 15 so do not expect 25k miles out of a chain on this bike. The smaller the front sprocket the faster the chain wears.

 

I do like the OPs gadget however. Better than toting around a tape measure under the seat.

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On 9/9/2020 at 5:56 PM, ahamay said:

Seems so to me, too. I'm glad someone's asking this question. The recommended numbers are adequate IF where the swingarm sits, while resting on side stand, the chain is stretched  as far as it will ever need to be along the up and down arc/ travel of rear wheel. 

Side stand or center stand doesn’t matter as you need to unload the suspension. 43-48mm is measured without any sag of the rear suspension. 

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On 9/9/2020 at 9:51 PM, Adventure6965 said:

Today I made a "Chain Mate"(R). I basically made it to the minimum & maximum chain tension measurements of 43mm & 48mm. You just slip it between the swing arm & chain at the end of the chain slider where Yamaha states to measure chain tension. Simples. It weighs virtually nothing & can be stored under the seat. You could also drill a hole in one corner & attach a key ring to it if you wanted.

This is just the way I'm doing it. Feel free to use whatever dimensions you like.

20200909_125822.jpg

20200909_134133.jpg

In the engineering world this would nearly be called a go-no go gauge 

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Alcohol! No good story starts with a salad.

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  • 2 months later...

I am still honestly confused as to where and how Im supposed to measure the chain slack? I have the factory chain guide and it seems to restrict how the slack would be measured. I am just under 5k miles and pretty sure chain tension is too slack at this point. I will get a manual soon but help on this would be appreciated.

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i did a check on chain tension when i removed my shock. chain tension set as per manual is spot on. just a touch of slack in the chain at full extension. ie both sprocket centres in-line. i too thought the correct setting was too tight but is actually correct. 

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On 9/11/2020 at 3:27 AM, REDHORSECA said:

I use Motion Pro chain slack setter tool. I have 6 chain driven dirt/street bikes in my garage

 

51TJhxfIx8L._AC_SL1300_.jpg

 

I have the same tool, pretty slick little device and it gets used frequently.  ( I only have 5 chain driven bikes in my garage, need to do something about that.....). 

Also, regarding chain tension, my litmus test is after adjusting, I have a friend sit on the bike full weight on and double check that the chain isn't too tight. Looser is always better than tighter. 

 

"Men do not quit playing because they grow old, they grow old because they quit playing" Oliver Wendell Holmes - Mods - HDB handguards, Camel-ADV Gut guard, 1 finger clutch, The Fix pedal & Rally pipe, RR side/tail rack, RR 90nm spring & Headlight guard, Rally seat, OEM heated grips- stablemate Beta 520RS

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On 11/14/2020 at 1:40 PM, CAJW said:

I have the same tool, pretty slick little device and it gets used frequently.  ( I only have 5 chain driven bikes in my garage, need to do something about that.....). 

Also, regarding chain tension, my litmus test is after adjusting, I have a friend sit on the bike full weight on and double check that the chain isn't too tight. Looser is always better than tighter. 

thats ok if you have friends 😞

Edited by bth2
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On 11/14/2020 at 1:39 AM, bth2 said:

i did a check on chain tension when i removed my shock. chain tension set as per manual is spot on. just a touch of slack in the chain at full extension. ie both sprocket centres in-line. i too thought the correct setting was too tight but is actually correct. 

This really is the best way to confirm whatever setting you are trying to achieve will work.  Bike on lift or centerstand, disconnect dog bones ( either end, doesn't matter) rotate swingarm up until Drive sprocket, Swingarm pivot, and Rear sprocket are lined up.  That is the longest point the chain would have to clear.  IF you still have a touch of slack there then your setting is correct.  If it binds or you can't rotate the wheel past this point, you have too little slack.  You can then figure out an easy way to check it and it doesn't have to be the way the manual states.

 

I'll check mine tonight.  I've got a 16t and still had plenty of slack with stock chain during my rear shock spring swap.

 

J

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