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Who’s taken the plunge! and bought fork cartridge kit?


FredBasset

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Ok, now several aftermarket companies have produced fork upgrade kits, anybody bought one and if so, what’s your experiences with installation and effect it has had on the your bike? 🤓

 

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Im going for revalving of shim stack in the forks and K-tech internals in the rear shock. I have already a 80Nm spring and preload washer in the forks. 

I will try to get the most out of the standard components as I find ok.

My K-Tech tuner will sort it out in a couple of weeks.

Edited by PJS
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Hello @PJS I have also gone for a K-Tech solution.

I weigh 75kg naked and about 85kg in riding gear. I have an 85Nm rear spring and 5mm spacers in the forks with the standard springs.

I have had the K-Tech fork piston kit and the shock absorber piston with shims installed.

I would like to compare notes with you regarding damper settings.

As I'm 70 I no longer tackle difficult offroad terrain, bit I do like to explore the old military roads in the alps.

Initially the dampers were set at 12 clicks out for all settings, but I found this very hard. I now have the following settings: Forks compression 20 clicks out, rebound 12 clicks out.

Rear shock compression 18 clicks out, rebound8 clicks out.

This seems ok at low speed on rough tracks, but is not so good at absorbing bumps at motorway speeds.

As I can't get hold of my tuner at the moment I would be interested to hear how you get on.

 

 

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59 minutes ago, Engineer said:

Hello @PJS I have also gone for a K-Tech solution.

I weigh 75kg naked and about 85kg in riding gear. I have an 85Nm rear spring and 5mm spacers in the forks with the standard springs.

I have had the K-Tech fork piston kit and the shock absorber piston with shims installed.

I would like to compare notes with you regarding damper settings.

As I'm 70 I no longer tackle difficult offroad terrain, bit I do like to explore the old military roads in the alps.

Initially the dampers were set at 12 clicks out for all settings, but I found this very hard. I now have the following settings: Forks compression 20 clicks out, rebound 12 clicks out.

Rear shock compression 18 clicks out, rebound8 clicks out.

This seems ok at low speed on rough tracks, but is not so good at absorbing bumps at motorway speeds.

As I can't get hold of my tuner at the moment I would be interested to hear how you get on.

 

 

Im going to this mod in two weeks time. I can report back when I hav done the mods.

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I have the Andreani Misano kit installed.

Installation requires removal of the fork lugs. If I knew that before purchasing I would have gone another route like a re-valve.

Performance is a decent upgrade from stock, but my hunch is could get same or very similar results with just a re-valve. The Andreani's do give you preload adjustment though.

 

If I was to to again I'd go for a re-valve to save some money.

 

Rear shock I replaced with a TFX unit and it is night and day better than stock. 

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I would have liked Ohlins to deliver a proper TTX shock instead of the more basic STX they offer.

 

I'm going to order the Tractive/Touratech/Rally raid extreme rear shock and Cartridges although I'm still doubting if I should buy the Closed Chamber (CC) or the Open Chamber (OC) ones.

 

Closed Chamber are technically superior and have to be serviced by specialists but that's the theory. I don't know if I will be able to notice the difference in performance from a CC compared to an OC given than both have the same 35mm piston and antibottoming system. 

In enduro its kind of common wisdom to say that OC are plusher over slow stuff and CC are more consistent and better as you go quicker. The thing is that all top extreme enduro riders use A-kit CC systems not OC just like EnduroGP guys and MX, just revalved for their slower needs.

 

 

 

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7 minutes ago, powder said:

I would have liked Ohlins to deliver a proper TTX shock instead of the more basic STX they offer.

 

I'm going to order the Tractive/Touratech/Rally raid extreme rear shock and Cartridges although I'm still doubting if I should buy the Closed Chamber (CC) or the Open Chamber (OC) ones.

 

Closed Chamber are technically superior and have to be serviced by specialists but that's the theory. I don't know if I will be able to notice the difference in performance from a CC compared to an OC given than both have the same 35mm piston and antibottoming system. 

In enduro its kind of common wisdom to say that OC are plusher over slow stuff and CC are more consistent and better as you go quicker. The thing is that all top extreme enduro riders use A-kit CC systems not OC just like EnduroGP guys and MX, just revalved for their slower needs.

 

 

 

Yeah but..........😀  the top boys dont service their own bikes, OC are DIY serviceable and unless your very fast, guessing the extra cost of CC isn't really worth it. Are the Ohlins 20mm or 35mm OC?

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5 minutes ago, Alf Meister said:

Yeah but..........😀  the top boys dont service their own bikes, OC are DIY serviceable and unless your very fast, guessing the extra cost of CC isn't really worth it. Are the Ohlins 20mm or 35mm OC?

Ohlins are NIX 30 Cartridges so 30mm pistons. The price is the same than the CC Tractive  and substantially more expensive than the OC ones. 

 

Service wise I don't mind because I'm not going to do it myself either. I'm more concern about if the performance is noticeable between them at my fast amateur pace.

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15 minutes ago, Flyinbrianbmx said:

I bought the rally raid closed cartridge rally kit. they're great I love them, best mod to the bike!

How do they compare to stock in offroad? I mostly ride rocky terrain with a fast pace and the stock deflects dangerously every time I get a big hit on a sharp edged stone.

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For those interested in differences between OC & CC fork kits (apart from price difference)

 

CLOSED CARTRIDGE:

All adjustments to be done from top cover cap

    • Separate Rebound leg and compression leg, both adjustable from the top.
    • Spring preload adjustment 12 mm in both legs.
    • Air release bolt.
    • CNC machined end cap. 

Ease of assembly by customer:

    • No modifications to front fork necessary
    • Cartridge is filled by Tractive.  No air inside.
    • Oil seal floating to follow bending forces.
    • Blow off valve to blow of oil when pressures are to extreme. 

Robustness / Stability / Bigger adjustment range

  • Closed cartridges: no foaming => reproducible, stable damping
  • High damping stability because of 35 mm pistons (biggest in the market)
  • Hydraulic endstop against bottoming in both cartridges. 
  • Very robust due to maximum tube diameter.

Nitrogen chamber with bladder for lowest stick-slip

 

 

OPEN CARTRIDGE:

All adjustments to be done from top cover cap

               Separate Rebound leg and compression leg, both adjustable from the top.

    • Spring preload adjustment 12 mm in both legs.
    • Air release bolt.
    • CNC machined end cap. 

Ease of assembly by customer:

    • No modifications to front fork necessary
    • Oil seal floating to follow bending forces. 

Robustness / Stability / Bigger adjustment range

  • High damping stability because of 35 mm pistons (biggest in the market)
  • Hydraulic endstop against bottoming in both cartridges
  • Very robust due to maximum tube diameter.
  •  
  • Can be serviced easily by competent home mechanic.
Edited by Ktmmitch
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19 minutes ago, Ktmmitch said:

For those interested in differences between OC & CC fork kits (apart from price difference)

 

OPEN CARTRIDGE:

 

  • Very robust due to maximum tube diameter.

John, this maximum tube diameter is stated only in the OC. The CC has a smaller diameter?

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1 hour ago, powder said:

John, this maximum tube diameter is stated only in the OC. The CC has a smaller diameter?

No, both same diameter, my typo, have corrected description

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5 hours ago, powder said:

How do they compare to stock in offroad? I mostly ride rocky terrain with a fast pace and the stock deflects dangerously every time I get a big hit on a sharp edged stone.

they're a lot better, I can run into things I would steer clear of on the stock suspension. 

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  • 3 weeks later...

Have a look at this guys if you would like to upgrade your suspension - https://youtu.be/_kB6psx34zM

Also you can test the bike over at the Mick Extance off-road Experience for a £60 Admin charge before you buy our bits and we give you 10% off for doing so - https://mailchi.mp/0f0fa8e002be/yamaha-tenere-adventure-bike-test-days-at-mick-extance-off-road-experiance-6461900

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I have ordered the Rally Raid extreme open cartridge fork kit and the extreme shock, but not taken delivery yet. As I am getting on in years and don't do anything too adventurous these days, I am going for slightly softer springs than would normally be recommended for my weight.

I am hoping that this will give me a more plush ride on road, but still be good for everything except maybe extreme offroad.

I will post my impressions once I have installed them.

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So after a long a chilly ride to Rally Raid my new front suspension was waiting for me.

when the old internals were pulled out and the new Open cartridge set was side by side you can see it is significantly differently and understand why the original units is not ideal for my style of riding.

the standard suspension is ideally for generic riding , little bit of this and that but far too easy to reach its limits.

so a bit about me, 50 and ex enduro rider of 30 years.

still off road ride and need a better more compliant ride now.

 

we all know what the existing springy bits like on the front.

not reactive

can be harsh if ridden fast off road

bottoms out to easily

brake dive and wallows.

ridden really fast on rough gravel and tank slap will appear.

 

Rally Raid took 2 hours to install the new kit and set my weight up ( 90kgs clothed)

 

i went for a quick trip after it was set up and the first thing i noticed it dives ALOT less.

 

I then found a rough gravel track and pushed it, gone is the harsh reaction and where as before i would avoid a pothole ( gravel) just go straight through. Instead of a bang you get a phumf:)) .

the faster you go the smoother it becomes and sort of starts to float .

 I have a Rally Raid upgraded spring on the rear and because the front is well sorted you start to notice the rear being lesser grade. I adjusted that more and it became absolutely fine and good enough.

 

I found a grass verge which was 12 inchies high approx vertical, i just hit it square on. OH Yes what a massive difference, nice and soft up it went. No bottoming and nasty noises, quietly took it in its stride. 

And back down it exactly the same with no question whether you will damage something.

 

On the road  it was slightly firmer than the yam set up so i wound the pre load off ( left hand fork) and was very much better. The 5mm spacer was installed so if you want a softer highly damped feel you can do it.

kit comes with the tools to do it.

 

Needs bedding in but after 200 miles was more compliant on the road and more sports bike handling, less wallowing.

 

Overall I'm so pleased with it and WELL worth doing  as can ride to my full potential without grimacing when i hit some rough ground.

 

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Edited by Matth
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I reckon the tube is about 5-6 mm away. 

Its just i have no need for pannier frames at the moment.

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Matth- Thanks for the detailed write up!  I'm the same age and weight as you, so I'm using your experience as a reference.  What spring did you go with for the shock?  And was there any allowance made for a certain additional weight of luggage as part of that selection?

 

Do you know what damping settings RR used?

 

Edit:  I realize now you were just talking about front suspension, duh.  

Edited by Toei
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  • 4 months later...

Bit late but went for the rear as well with a 85nm spring, the rear now is incredible!

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