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Front brake disc rubbing caliper


ksmoker2

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My front brake caliper on the right side is rubbing the disc. I pulled the wheel off and everything seems to be aligned properly. No adjustments for this that I'm aware of. The disc isn't centered in the caliper. The left side looks fine. Anyone else with this issue?spacer.pngspacer.pngspacer.pngspacer.pngspacer.pngspacer.pngspacer.pngspacer.png

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New spacers totally cured my mis-alignment issue.  

 

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"Men do not quit playing because they grow old, they grow old because they quit playing" Oliver Wendell Holmes - Mods - HDB handguards, Camel-ADV Gut guard, 1 finger clutch, The Fix pedal & Rally pipe, RR side/tail rack, RR 90nm spring & Headlight guard, Rally seat, OEM heated grips- stablemate Beta 520RS

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So just to add to the conversation....I pulled a real boner.  I was having the same issue after having some new tires mounted.  I went so far as to put spacer washers behind the caliper which helped.  They mounted the tire backwards, and I put the wheel on with the tread the right way (which looks backwards).  It didn't hit me until I noticed the ABS light would not go off.  I removed the spacers flipped the wheel 180 and all is good.  Just need to have the tire mounted correctly.  Lesson learned?  The rotor spacing is NOT symmetrical within the wheel.

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UPDATE:  ISSUE RESOLVED: It turns out that the right axle hub is a floating design that requires you to move the fork inwards slightly from it's resting position until the gap is equal on both side of the rotor...it is possible to over correct & have the other side of the caliper assembly rub.

 

I just discovered that I have the same problem @3,800 kms after changing my tires out.  I tried retorqueing the axle, pinch bolts in the correct sequence, bouncing the forks, switching the wheel spacers (identical lengths) from side to side & confirming that the caliper floats on the pins correctly to no avail.  The left caliper is centered with equal gap on the rotor, but the right caliper inside edge is just making contact with the rotor.   I would encourage everyone to check the spacing of their front calipers/rotors, particularly if the wheel has been removed. 

 

20210707_152014.jpg 20210707_151925.jpg

 

Right fork axle hub natural resting position forces calipers off center on hub

 

20210708_121159.jpg

 

Using hand pressure push the axle hub assembly inwards until equal gap with the rotor is obtained then tighten the pinch bolts as per specs/sequence.

 

20210708_125250.jpg 20210708_125634.jpg

Edited by prowlnS10
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Damn, well now I need to go and check my bike's calipers..

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16 hours ago, prowlnS10 said:

UPDATE:  ISSUE RESOLVED: It turns out that the right axle hub is a floating design that requires you to move the fork inwards slightly from it's resting position until the gap is equal on both side of the rotor...it is possible to over correct & have the other side of the caliper assembly rub.

 

I just discovered that I have the same problem @3,800 kms after changing my tires out.  I tried retorqueing the axle, pinch bolts in the correct sequence, bouncing the forks, switching the wheel spacers (identical lengths) from side to side & confirming that the caliper floats on the pins correctly to no avail.  The left caliper is centered with equal gap on the rotor, but the right caliper inside edge is just making contact with the rotor.   I would encourage everyone to check the spacing of their front calipers/rotors, particularly if the wheel has been removed. 

 

 

 

can confirm, hand placement works.

 

Had my tire replaced in a shop and the spacer was out way too far when returned, hence rubbing the caliper, some hand grease and torque and all is good.

 

I understand shops have too many brands and models to remember/know all the quirks, but I would have hoped more care was involved.

 

Nothing like DIY sometimes.

 

thanks

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Thanks to prowlnS10 !!!

Easy as pie to fix. Loosen pinch bolts, right side. In my case all it took was scooch the fork until the bolt and fork were flush. Now, rotor nicely centered.

This is a fantastic forum.😍

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On 11/23/2020 at 8:35 PM, AZJW said:

Mine had the same issue and I did the same procedure as Svrider which helped . It didn't center it, but pulled it away from the caliper enough to clear it. Waiting for a response from the dealer to see what remedy Yamaha might have. 

Update to this. Guess the dealer blew me off, (no surprise) as I never got any sort of answer from them. Whether they never got a response from Yamaha or the Service Manager just flat out ignored my 3 phone calls after my visit, I'll probably never know. Good news is, new axle spacers fixed the problem. 

 

"Men do not quit playing because they grow old, they grow old because they quit playing" Oliver Wendell Holmes - Mods - HDB handguards, Camel-ADV Gut guard, 1 finger clutch, The Fix pedal & Rally pipe, RR side/tail rack, RR 90nm spring & Headlight guard, Rally seat, OEM heated grips- stablemate Beta 520RS

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On 7/8/2021 at 8:31 PM, prowlnS10 said:

UPDATE:  ISSUE RESOLVED: It turns out that the right axle hub is a floating design that requires you to move the fork inwards slightly from it's resting position until the gap is equal on both side of the rotor...it is possible to over correct & have the other side of the caliper assembly rub.

 

I just discovered that I have the same problem @3,800 kms after changing my tires out.  I tried retorqueing the axle, pinch bolts in the correct sequence, bouncing the forks, switching the wheel spacers (identical lengths) from side to side & confirming that the caliper floats on the pins correctly to no avail.  The left caliper is centered with equal gap on the rotor, but the right caliper inside edge is just making contact with the rotor.   I would encourage everyone to check the spacing of their front calipers/rotors, particularly if the wheel has been removed. 

 

20210707_152014.jpg 20210707_151925.jpg

 

Right fork axle hub natural resting position forces calipers off center on hub

 

20210708_121159.jpg

 

Using hand pressure push the axle hub assembly inwards until equal gap with the rotor is obtained then tighten the pinch bolts as per specs/sequence.

 

 

 

 

Doesn't this procedure force the fork to be slightly angled inwards and not naturally parallel? 

 

I have the same issue and it doesn't matter what sequence of tightening and bouncing I do that my right caliper is almost touching the disc. 

Edited by powder
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2 hours ago, prowlnS10 said:

Here is the updated skinny on my experience...after trying several different techniques, of which none provided proper alignment of the right caliper,I used thin washers to shim the right caliper, which allows the fork to find its natural position.   


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Here is the updated skinny on my experience...after trying several different techniques, of which none provided proper alignment of the right caliper, I used thin washers to shim the right caliper, which allows the fork to find its natural position.     try this link

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I just got my T7 back from a tire change and same issue again, of course. I already knew my T7 had this issue an pushed the right side fork leg inward slightly to have the right brake caliper centered.

But this basically means that my fork is not resting in it's natural position, but is under tension from pushing it inwards.

At this point what is the consensus on this topic? It happens on some bikes and others apparently are fine. 

I'm starting to think that maybe a production run of bikes has something wrong on the front end. I would really like if we could get to the bottom of this issue once and for all. 

 

@AZJWby fitting the Rally Raid spacers your caliper rubbing issue was completely fixed? I can't understand right now how different spacers will move the fork inward to obtain clearance for the brake disc. Does the left side spacers move the wheel further to the right? 🤔

 

@prowlnS10do I understand correctly that when you shimmed the brake caliper to center it on the disk, there remained that gap between fork and axle spacer on the right side? I have the same gap on mine and have to push the fork inward as you explained in your blog. 

 

 

Edited by OK185
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Pushing the fork in is the wrong solution.  This will cause accelerated bushing wear and is not the correct action.

I played with using washers to shim the caliper but it become a real pain in the a** when reinstalling the caliper.

 

I wanted a final solution that would not add any steps to front end work and I decided to modify the caliper and fix the solution for good.  

I put my solution in another thread, but simply I filed 1 mm from the inside of the caliper mounting bracket to increase the clearance to an acceptable amount.

I used a flat file and removed 1mm from the bracket.  No more issues and I am not at all worried about strength of the bracket.

 

 

412A2422-EA43-4A24-A05C-0E52E210E91B_1_201_a.jpeg

 

 

07ACCD69-B4E3-422F-A28E-89D61B28286A_1_201_a.jpeg

 

Edited by williestreet
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2 hours ago, OK185 said:

I just got my T7 back from a tire change and same issue again, of course. I already knew my T7 had this issue an pushed the right side fork leg inward slightly to have the right brake caliper centered.

But this basically means that my fork is not resting in it's natural position, but is under tension from pushing it inwards.

At this point what is the consensus on this topic? It happens on some bikes and others apparently are fine. 

I'm starting to think that maybe a production run of bikes has something wrong on the front end. I would really like if we could get to the bottom of this issue once and for all. 

 

@AZJWby fitting the Rally Raid spacers your caliper rubbing issue was completely fixed? I can't understand right now how different spacers will move the fork inward to obtain clearance for the brake disc. Does the left side spacers move the wheel further to the right? 🤔

 

@prowlnS10do I understand correctly that when you shimmed the brake caliper to center it on the disk, there remained that gap between fork and axle spacer on the right side? I have the same gap on mine and have to push the fork inward as you explained in your blog. 

 

 

Yes that is correct...after shimming the right caliper & allowing the fork to finds it's natural unstressed position the fork boss no longer covers or hides the junction of the axle & the spacer like it does on the other side 

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@OK185 I suspect the fitting of the RallyRaid spacers fixing the problem was more a function of getting the right caliper somewhat centered with the loosening/ bouncing procedure rather than the spacers helping.  The rotor is still closer to the inside casting, but it clears enough that I haven't needed to shim it.  The RR spacers make the front wheel install so much easier, but I'm still following the loosening/ bouncing procedure every time I reinstall the front wheel.  My OCD tendencies at some point will probably drive me to shim the caliper.

 

"Men do not quit playing because they grow old, they grow old because they quit playing" Oliver Wendell Holmes - Mods - HDB handguards, Camel-ADV Gut guard, 1 finger clutch, The Fix pedal & Rally pipe, RR side/tail rack, RR 90nm spring & Headlight guard, Rally seat, OEM heated grips- stablemate Beta 520RS

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I use the steps used in the first four minutes of this YT video. The key points in the video I've found makes the difference between the disk hitting the caliper and the disk being centered are the order of doing all the steps and leaving the caliper bolts a bit loose through the first part of the process.

Maybe it doesn't work on every T7 but it definitely works on mine. Note I do have Rally Raid spacers but this also worked with the OEM.

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On 1/13/2021 at 4:02 AM, rumrum said:

After reading what has been posted here and consulting the workshop manual and a bit of head scratching I have solved my issue with the alignment and rubbing.

 

At first attempt I loosened off the pinch bolts and axel, gave it a few shoves on the handle bars, tightened the axel up by hand and then the pinch bolts. = Bugger still rubbing.

 

Second attempt I read the workshop manual first. and noted inside pinch bolt first then outside. Result, made a little improvement but still not lined up properly.

 

I went back scratched my head and decided to do it exactly as the manual states and found the axel was being done up way too tight by my handometer.

 

So I;

 

1. loosened the pinch bolts and axel off

2. Give the front end a good few shoves and compressed the forks up and down a few times

3. Tightened axel to the required 72NM with a torque wrench and not with my Handometer

4. Tightened the inside pinch bolt first 21NM then the outside (Tighten to 21NM straight away do not partially tighten then torque down).

 

 Result = No more rubbing and calliper is aligned central again.


I ended up at your post when I just had the same problem earlier, turns out I had the wheel on opposite side, changed it back and its fixed

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