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REDHORSECA T7 Log - Southern California

REDHORSECA

By REDHORSECA
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REDHORSECA Enthusiast

REDHORSECA

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Dealership: HYR Redlands, California -My second purchase from this Dealership.  A+ I'm happy with them!

Deposit: June 13th, 2020 - Specified Ceramic Ice T700 (Blue) color, first choice color.

Delivered @ Dealership: Sept. 30th, 2020  - Red/White T700 - Ceramic Ice was going to be a longer wait.

Ready for pick up: Oct. 2nd, 2020 (Waited about 16 weeks for a T700, to be delivered from deposit date.)

Build Date: 8/2020

Bike #: 476

ODO: 1 mile

 

fMDVy9E.jpg

 

Accumulated FARKLES pile, before my T7 was delivered.

 

TByw3Tu.jpg

 

7PrfVtC.jpg

 

 

 

10\3\2020

MAINTENANCE:

  • As a precaution, from the two reported (that I've read) rear brake lockup/dragging from the brake fluid heating up and expanding in an overfilled rear brake reservoir. Since I had the side covers and rear plastic off the bike for doing the Tail Tiddy, there was plenty of access to the rear reservoir. You only need to remove the right side lowest black plastic panel that is next to the rear painted plastic piece for access. I  checked/removed some of the brake fluid from the rear reservoir to just below the HIGH fill line. It was just only slightly higher than the HIGH fill line, it wasn't too over filled. But I decided to remove a little anyways, to lower the brake fluid level. I just used a new plastic drink straw and dip it into the brake fluid and covered the straw opening with my finger to extract a little brake fluid until I reach my desired level.

 

INSTALLED:

 

TIRES:

 

FRONT:

  1. Stock tire - ~8,300 miles Oct '20- Jun '21
  2. Mitas - E-10, Dual-Sport, size 90/90-21" 40% Street / 60% Dirt = ~3,000 miles until worn (only ~200 miles on dirt, rest on highways commuting) Jun '21 - Aug '21
  3. Dunlop Trailmax Mission, size 90/90-21" 54T TL 50% Street/ 50% Dirt - Aug '21 - ?

 

REAR:

  1. Stock tire  - ~8,300 miles Oct '20- Jun '21
  2. Mitas - E-07+, Dual-Sport, Rear 18" size 150/70-18, 50% Street / 50% Dirt, 70T - Jun '21 - ? 50% or more of tread left after 3K miles Aug '21

 

DELIVERED  [X] = No current plans to install at this time

 

 

RETIRED:

 

IN Transit - Shipped

  •  

 

Ordered/Waiting to be shipped

  •  

 

Group Buy Pending

  •  

 

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REDHORSECA Enthusiast

REDHORSECA

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Camel High Fender kit install. Almost done with the kit install here. Just refreshing my memory watching the YT install video. Very hot day in SOCAL, I have the battery powered Dewalt fan to keep me comfy.

3c7Bbnd.jpg

 

10\4\2020

MAINTENANCE:

 

Voluntold my brother to help me out when he dropped by to say hi and see the new bike. I had him help bleed the new front brake lines. Not sure where all the parts for my other one are, so I just ordered another tool. I bought another vacuum brake bleeder tool from AMZ a while ago in preparations. Brother had never used one before. Lets just say it didn't go perfectly. It got dark, not happy how the front brakes feel. I'll try it again on another day.

 

 

INSTALLED:

 

 

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REDHORSECA Enthusiast

REDHORSECA

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10\5\2020

MAINTENANCE:

 

Just put on a few more farkles on today. But I went back and fixed a few things on ones I did before.

 

I bled the brakes a second time. This time by myself with the brake vacuum tool. Brake feels much better. I opened up the bleed nipple much more this time and more air bubbles came out. I normally just crack it open maybe 1/2 turn, I would get most of the air bubbles out right away, then get some micro bubbles. When I opened up the bleed nipple some more I got more larger air bubble trickling out. So now it's all good for now.

 

Replaced the OEM bolts I used for the ACD bash plate with the Alan head bolts provided by ACD, they are slightly longer than the OEM ones.

 

There was the left side lower bracket from the GIVI pannier rack that I couldn't align with the bracket installed onto the passenger peg mount. So I used a ratchet strap to help align it and I could finally bolt it on properly.

OINNavtl.jpg

 

 

Acerbis front fender and the Adventure Spec crash guards are finally on. The front of my White/Red T700 now has a blue front end. RED, WHITE and BLUE T700. lol I know the GYTR CYCRA handguards need to be even. I adjusted them some today after this picture was taken, but they are still not perfectly even. I think I need to 3D print a small spacer for the brake side. I'm still playing with them. I'm going to adjust the handle bars after one more day of riding, then finalize the CYCRA handguards.

Y8y4NGOl.jpg

 

 

INSTALLED:

 

 

Edited by REDHORSECA
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AZJW Grand Master

AZJW

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Glad to hear you finally got your bike and are happy with the treatment you got from your dealer.  HYR was one of the very few CA dealers I missed in my quest for a T7. Please consider adding your comments to this thread as good dealers are hard to find and we need to spread the word.   Congrats! 

 

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"Men do not quit playing because they grow old, they grow old because they quit playing" Oliver Wendell Holmes - Mods - HDB handguards, Camel-ADV Gut guard, 1 finger clutch, The Fix pedal & Rally pipe, RR side/tail rack, RR 90nm spring & Headlight guard, Rally seat, OEM heated grips- stablemate Beta 520RS

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REDHORSECA Enthusiast

REDHORSECA

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Got home from my California Beaches ride. Visited the old neighborhood from my childhood.

 

iHiGj7C.jpg

 

2ERodvj.jpg

 

6vq7t8x.jpg

 

ioxpa3m.jpg

 

Kmj9NjC.jpg

 

jw4I8qT.jpg

 

7rVLvkJ.jpg

 

 

 

 

10\11\2020

MAINTENANCE:

 

Came back home to the IE and hit 606 miles.  So, I did the T700's first filter and oil change.

 

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REDHORSECA Enthusiast

REDHORSECA

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  10\13\2020

INSTALLED:

My CRG RC2 short brake lever arrived today. CRG also makes a standard length brake lever. Install took all but a minute.

 

Great machining and really tight tolerances. Almost no up and down play, negligible. Top notch quality!

 

Adjusted to the small dot, 1st position of 6. Closest to the grip.

KCSoECB.jpg

 

Adjusted to the large dot, 6th of 6 positions. Furthest away from the grip.

3Fn0kpA.jpg

 

I like the 3rd position feel, not having ridden with it yet. I'll see after my commute tomorrow, what position I end up liking.

 

It has a roller bearing surface engagement for the adjustment, so changing positions takes very little effort.

 

 

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TimmyTheHog Mentor

TimmyTheHog

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13 hours ago, REDHORSECA said:

  10\13\2020

INSTALLED:

My CRG RC2 short brake lever arrived today. CRG also makes a standard length brake lever. Install took all but a minute.

 

Great machining and really tight tolerances. Almost no up and down play, negligible. Top notch quality!

 

Adjusted to the small dot, 1st position of 6. Closest to the grip.

KCSoECB.jpg

 

Adjusted to the large dot, 6th of 6 positions. Furthest away from the grip.

3Fn0kpA.jpg

 

I like the 3rd position feel, not having ridden with it yet. I'll see after my commute tomorrow, what position I end up liking.

 

It has a roller bearing surface engagement for the adjustment, so changing positions takes very little effort.

 

 

no issue the levers to the hand guard? might just be my eye playing tricks on me...

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REDHORSECA Enthusiast

REDHORSECA

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No, not right now. They are not touching, but there is like 1/8" gap. The camera angle makes it look worse than it really is. But if I drop the bike and the guards move, the guard aluminum bar may hit the lever. Good eye.

 

I'm going to 3D print some 1/2" long ABS plastic spacers to move the inner mounting location on the bars a little further out for more clearance.

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REDHORSECA Enthusiast

REDHORSECA

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10/15/20

 

The T700 turn over 1,000 miles after work. So, I went to the Dealership to pick up some Yamalube oil and a crush washer for the second oil change. I also picked up a Michelin front and rear inner tube spares. I had a $10 email coupon for doing the online Yamaha survey of purchasing the T700 from my Dealership.

 

I did the first oil & filter change at 606 miles. I'll do the 1k oil change tomorrow.

 

I did mention that my front right rotor was rubbing very slightly on the brake caliper (not brake pad) to the Service Manager. I could slightly feel it when braking, metal on metal rubbing. They looked at it and did confirm the rotor slightly touching the caliper. They said the could squeeze  me in tomorrow at 5pm, since it was already near their closing time.

 

I was going to attempt to adjust the front wheel in the forks myself. But, I thought I would let them know. So, that they could keep an eye out when they were assembling other new T700 for their future customers.

 

CRG RC2 clutch lever arrived in the mail.

 

 

10/16/20

 

INSTALLED:

CRG RC2 shorty clutch cable in the morning, before riding to work. I didn't even have to mess with the clutch cable adjuster. Just took off the bolt (don't forget the OEM bushing in the factory clutch lever!) and pulled the cable barrel through the clutch lever and slid the CRG lever in it's place. Bolted it up and all was great!

 

Dealer Warranty Service:

Dropped by the Dealership after work at the 5PM appointment. Chilled in the nice lobby and looked at some bikes. An hour later they were done. Temporary fix. They could not get it adjusted perfectly. The new T700 they had there had the same issue with the front rotor rubbing. They ended up shimming the right front rotor.

 

They took pictures and are notifying Yamaha for a fix/advice.

 

 

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REDHORSECA Enthusiast

REDHORSECA

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10/18/20

 

MAINTENANCE:

I did the 2nd oil change on the bike @ 1152 miles with some Yamalube 10w-50 and new crush washer, per Dealership recommendation @ 600 mi & 1,000 mi. I hand tightened oil drain plug by feel on the new crush washer.  I have four other Yamaha street & dirt bikes currently in my garage. So, I have plenty of experience.

 

The Dealership only had 1 quart of Yamalube 10W-40 full Synth on the shelves. So, I got the 10w-50 instead.

 

FHIbaG4.jpg

 

Gave the bike a good wash to get rid of all the dust and silt stuck to it. Then lubed the chain afterwards.

 

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REDHORSECA Enthusiast

REDHORSECA

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10/20/20

 

INSTALLED:

 

I got around to installing the TST Industries (RLYG2) adjustable LED flasher relay yesterday.

 

Amazon link for the TST Industries  RLYG2 adjustable LED flasher relay:

2 Pin LED Flasher Relay for Honda Kawasaki Yamaha Suzuki (Gen 2) - RLYG2

 

2 Pin LED Flasher Relay for Honda Kawasaki Yamaha Suzuki (Gen 2) ZX6R ZX10R 600RR 1000RR R6 R1 F4i GSXR FZ6R

 

Dropped right in like the OEM relay. I did it by just removing the seats. I didn't have to pull the right side panel.

 

Pulled the factory relay out from top of the bike. Disconnected the relay from the wiring harness. Pulled the rubber mount from the factory relay and put it on the TST relay.

 

For my bike, it was the two pin relay on the right side top frame rail under the main seat. Of the two relays sitting next to each other, it was the relay closer towards the rear of the bike.

 

Connected the TST relay to the factory wiring. Clips right in like the factory unit. Secured the TST relay with the rubber mount back onto the factory location.

 

Tested the LED turn indicators and they were blinking at the perfect rate. I didn't have to adjust the relay speed at all. Hazard lights were also blinking at the perfect rate.

 

It just took a couple minutes. Longest part was getting the rubber mount onto the new flasher relay. Sticking a small screw driver under the plastic clip for more room, some spit, and the rubber mount slid right into place.

 

Perfect replacement flasher relay for LED turn indicators.

 

=================================================================================

10/21/20

 

INSTALLED:

 

I saw this posted on the FB T700 group. [Facebook link Oct 14th] Paul posted some videos of the issue.

 

I replaced the factory chain roller guides on my T700 with ones with roller bearings. The factory ones do not have a bearing, just a metal sleeve and they can begin to make irritating noise when they wear out or get dirty.

 

I got these on AMZ, they come in different colors:

Outlaw Racing OR3074Bu Chain Roller Guide 34X28mm Blue Predator 500 Mx125 Mx250

414yFNiZcAL._AA130_.jpg

 

The Outlaw Racing chain roller guides drop right in and are a perfect fit.

 

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REDHORSECA Enthusiast

REDHORSECA

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11/1/20

 

T700 Color Parts Swap:

 

I did a color swap with another forum member today.  We met about half way from each other, since we're about two hours drive apart.

 

We took the parts off the T700s and cleaned them, and drove our vehicles to a convenient meeting spot @ a Motorcycle Dealership half way from each other.

 

We swapped out the wheels and rear tail section from a White/Red and a Black/Blue T700. Deal went super smooth. We both ended up with T700 part colors we would rather have for our T700.

 

So, I got the Blue wheels and Blue tail section and he got my Black wheels and Red tail section. We kept our original brake rotors and cush-drive units. Both having newish low mileage T700s so the parts were basically in excellent condition. So we both have unique colored T700s.

 

So, a color swap is a possibility!

 

cTZ3gv6l.jpg

Edited by REDHORSECA
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TimmyTheHog Mentor

TimmyTheHog

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14 hours ago, REDHORSECA said:

11/1/20

 

T700 Color Parts Swap:

 

I did a color swap with another forum member today.  We met about half way from each other, since we're about two hours drive apart.

 

We took the parts off the T700s and cleaned them, and drove our vehicles to a convenient meeting spot @ a Motorcycle Dealership half way from each other.

 

We swapped out the wheels and rear tail section from a White/Red and a Black/Blue T700. Deal went super smooth. We both ended up with T700 part colors we would rather have for our T700.

 

So, I got the Blue wheels and Blue tail section and he got my Black wheels and Red tail section. We kept our original brake rotors and cush-drive units. Both having newish low mileage T700s so the parts were basically in excellent condition. So we both have unique colored T700s.

 

So, a color swap is a possibility!

 

cTZ3gv6l.jpg

awww I was just getting used to your tri-color scheme :P....

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REDHORSECA Enthusiast

REDHORSECA

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Alpina Italy texted me last night to say my tubeless wheels were finished. They should be shipping soon.

 

I preordered them October 2nd before they were made available for the T7. I have the front rotors & bolts on the way, should arrive today.  I still have to purchase the rear rotor and both ABS rings.

 

Alpina STS2 2.15X21" Front & 4.25X18" Rear wheel set Blue rims/nipples Black hubs/spokes - Tubeless

hMZ1neF.jpg

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REDHORSECA Enthusiast

REDHORSECA

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In the last week. Installed the Seats Concept seat foam an covers. Sport Touring Comfort, stock height. Also, Doubletake Adventure mirrors installed. 

 

Seat Concepts sport Touring Comfort Seat set, installed

 

E6UJm4W.jpg

DGtTWg3.jpg

 

Double take Mirrors - Adventure Set, installed

 

4s1suyl.jpeg?fb

6554b6be8c0d829a8bf63ae0c82cf121_link.pn Rowher Flat and Drinkwater

Imgur: The magic of the Internet


 

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REDHORSECA Enthusiast

REDHORSECA

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Finally got in the mood of installing some more of the farkles from the pile.

 

These last two weekends I got the following installed.

 

A couple pictures of the  Öhlins STX 46 shock install:

 

Stock vs.  Öhlins - the dealer set the shock up (spring) for my weight +gear.

MeexogIl.jpg

 

zvgsX7Yl.jpg?1

 

Bolts as they came off the bike, no noticeable amount of grease from the factory. Luckily I haven't yet gone through too many deep streams. No corrosion. Finally going through this tub of grease I've had for 25+ years, I have a new tub standing by.

B9rgRISl.jpg

 

Since I've got the Camel high exhaust installed and the factory exhaust hanger was cut for the install. I couldn't mount the Öhlins remote  hydraulic spring compression adjuster onto the factory exhaust hanger. So I used a long bolt and two spacers and mounted it to the top passenger peg  mount and finally removed the passenger pegs = less weight.

 

z5Br6L1l.jpg

 

The remote spring compression adjuster is mounted where I can access the adjustment knob and it's out of the way of the swingarm and rear tire travel. I will still do some final adjustments to change the angle of the hydraulic banjo so I can route the hydraulic line better and get a one piece spacer, as these spacers and bolt are from my Givi top case brackets that I'll need for the install.

7FUvdFGl.jpg

 

9sCWpLnl.jpg

 

Picture showing clearance of the Camel high mounted exhaust and Givi pannier racks (not the OEM Yamaha racks) and the Yamaha LED turn indicator with the Camel heat shield on a Camel fender eliminator.

32h2wijl.jpg

 

YniC2Xml.jpg

 

Yes the tread on the factory rear tire is nearly gone, I have another week or two and then I can mount my Alpina tubeless wheel set and Mitas tires.  I will move to MotoZ tires when the Mitas wear out.

 

I'll set up the stock rear wheel as tubeless with the Outex kit and put a new smaller front tubeless rim/spokes on the front hub for a Supermotard street setup.

 

Edited by REDHORSECA
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Canzvt Rising Star

Canzvt

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Posted
2 hours ago, REDHORSECA said:

Finally got in the mood of installing some more of the farkles from the pile.

 

These last two weekends I got the following installed.

 

A couple pictures of the  Öhlins STX 46 shock install:

 

Stock vs.  Öhlins - the dealer set the shock up (spring) for my weight +gear.

MeexogIl.jpg

 

zvgsX7Yl.jpg?1

 

Bolts as they came off the bike, no noticeable amount of grease from the factory. Luckily I haven't yet gone through too many deep streams. No corrosion. Finally going through this tub of grease I've had for 25+ years, I have a new tub standing by.

B9rgRISl.jpg

 

Since I've got the Camel high exhaust installed and the factory exhaust hanger was cut for the install. I couldn't mount the Öhlins remote  hydraulic spring compression adjuster onto the factory exhaust hanger. So I used a long bolt and two spacers and mounted it to the top passenger peg  mount and finally removed the passenger pegs = less weight.

 

z5Br6L1l.jpg

 

The remote spring compression adjuster is mounted where I can access the adjustment knob and it's out of the way of the swingarm and rear tire travel. I will still do some final adjustments to change the angle of the hydraulic banjo so I can route the hydraulic line better and get a one piece spacer, as these spacers and bolt are from my Givi top case brackets that I'll need for the install.

7FUvdFGl.jpg

 

9sCWpLnl.jpg

 

Picture showing clearance of the Camel high mounted exhaust and Givi pannier racks (not the OEM Yamaha racks) and the Yamaha LED turn indicator with the Camel heat shield on a Camel fender eliminator.

32h2wijl.jpg

 

YniC2Xml.jpg

 

Yes the tread on the factory rear tire is nearly gone, I have another week or two and then I can mount my Alpina tubeless wheel set and Mitas tires.  I will move to MotoZ tires when the Mitas wear out.

 

I'll set up the stock rear wheel as tubeless with the Outex kit and put a new smaller front tubeless rim/spokes on the front hub for a Supermotard street setup.

 

Nicely done!

 

If you want to sell your stock front rim, let me know. I'm interested.

I think I have Yamaha disease...

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REDHORSECA Enthusiast

REDHORSECA

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39 minutes ago, Canzvt said:

Nicely done!

 

If you want to sell your stock front rim, let me know. I'm interested.


Will do. 

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REDHORSECA Enthusiast

REDHORSECA

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I did a little work on my ADV bikes today.

 

I changed out the front and rear sprockets on the other bike. I'll install the DID chain tomorrow after work. I replaced some worn hardware. The replacement hardware arrived yesterday.

 

Still waiting for the oil/filter change kits to arrive in the mail for both bikes. I only picked up two quarts of Yamalube at the dealership, so I ordered another 3 quarts and a spare OEM filter.

 

I spent too much time looking through boxes and bags for the correct mounting bolts/spacers for the AS top mount and Givi top case mount. Somewhat grouped all the remaining farkle hardware together, but I should have marked the bags of bolts. Had to find the install instructions to see the included hardware contents to verify I had the right mounting hardware.

 

On the T700 I had three broken bolts to drill out and remove. First was a left side front top bolt for the pannier side rack I removed the other week, just under the seat. I put the stock seat bungee bolt and over tightened it and snapped the top half off. That came out when I was drilling a pilot hole and I was reversing the drill bit. Didn't have to use the easy-out.

 

The two lower fork guard screw heads both sheared off again, so far broke off three of the Rally Raid nylon bolts. At least it wasn't the factory metal bolts. lol Drilled out as much of the center nylon bolt as I could then chased the threads with the correct tap. Replaced them with some more of the RR nylon bolts. I have 2-3 more spares left.

 

I installed the T-Rex fork sliders a couple weeks ago, so the fork/axle slider should better protect the lower fork guard screws from shearing off in the boulders and from the crashes.

 

I pulled off the remaining right side Givi pannier rack. Until I modify the left side pannier rack to clear the Camel Aux tank.

 

The Camel auxiliary gas tank sticks out too far out left of the T7 side panel that it interferes with the Givi left pannier rack in a couple of places. As Givi designed the left pannier rack to fit flush against the T7 left side panel.

 

You can see the unmounted transparent Camel Aux tank under the pannier rack. I was checking where the interference were, for later modification of the pannier rack.

MfEU7tpl.jpg

 

3GFPZcll.jpg

 

Same interference with the Givi top case brackets, so that wasn't installed. The top of the Camel Aux tank and the 90 degree vent nipple and the tank under the fender support bracket interferes with the Givi left side top and bottom top case support brackets. Givi uses four support brackets for the top mount. Two on top and two that mount under the fender.

 

EUn2YDul.jpg

 

I installed the Adventure Spec top case mount instead. I drilled four holes on the AS top plate to mount the Givi M9B top case plate on top of it. So I can at least ride around with either of my Outback Trekker 42L and 58L top boxes.

 

Red thing on the side panel is the reflection of the tool box in the garage. It even took me a minute to figure WTF it was. haha

wWkHMiHl.jpg

 

khNZqQnl.jpg

 

I verified that I can remove the seats. After unlatching the pillion seat I just need to slide it rearward under the top case plate, then lift the front of the pillion seat over the front seat.

 

Hopefully the Seat Concepts one piece seat that I'll order from the Seat Concepts Group Buy #2 will come off just as easy. I may have to put some spacers between the Adventure Spec and Givi top plate if it's needed for seat removal clearance.

Vr20U5u.jpg

 

Givi Outback Trekker 42L top case on the folding chair next to it. Waited two months for it to arrive. The container ship back log at the ports caused the delay. I have the 58L top case if I need more carrying capacity.

uLKB5Mbl.jpg

 

acPMwsxl.jpg

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Bighopper Enthusiast

Bighopper

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Posted
On 12/23/2020 at 1:30 PM, REDHORSECA said:

In the last week. Installed the Seats Concept seat foam an covers. Sport Touring Comfort, stock height. Also, Doubletake Adventure mirrors installed. 

 

Seat Concepts sport Touring Comfort Seat set, installed

 

E6UJm4W.jpg

 

 

That seat is what I am considering. How do you find it for long days in the saddle?

Thanks

Bighopper
 

 

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REDHORSECA Enthusiast

REDHORSECA

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Quote

That seat is what I am considering. How do you find it for long days in the saddle?

Thanks

Bighopper

 

I really like the SC comfort seat, this one is the stock height. I find it more comfortable than stock with  the wider seating surface and higher quality of foam material. The covering is really nice too.

 

I haven't really traveled too far to my ADV riding destination 150 miles to a camp site, 2.5-3 hour ride. I was completely comfortable, no squirming in the seat. Several days of 6-8 hours of black diamond trails in the sandy & hard packed deserts and mountains dirt roads and single tracks. Again completely comfortable.

 

XUoPOby.jpg

 

kOzTzHP.jpg

 

4s1suyl.jpg

 

These last 3 weeks I've been riding it to work., instead of my daily commuter bike. The T7 was supposed to be my dedicated off road ADV bike, but it's just so much fun to ride. I really like the motor. I do a 1 hour commute each way into Los Angeles. Again I find it comfortable.

 

I feel a little cramped from the seat to foot-pegs, do to my height. So I'm buying a one piece SC Tall Comfort seat in the current 2nd group buy. I will be able to swap back and fourth with the two Seat Concepts standard and tall comfort seats depending on the riding I will be doing.

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REDHORSECA Enthusiast

REDHORSECA

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MAINTENANCE:

 

Another oil change done, kind of latter than I wanted @ 8,300 miles. It's high quality oil.

 

Photo records of my oil change: YAMALUBE Full Synthetic 10W-40 oil, YAM filter and drain plug crush washer.

 

I also have the Garmin GPS mount (for Zumo 350 LM) finally mounted to the Rally Raid - Top Bar Clamp - RRP 612. I found the missing Garmin mounting hardware that I set aside in a 'safe' spot.

I just have to reinstall the Garmin power cable to the GPS mount.

KfAoIKrh.jpg

 

FARKLES INSTALLED: Some misc part pictures that have been installed:

 

My stock tires are finally worn down enough @ 8,300 miles that I can switched over to my other wheel set and tires. So I mounted the Mitas E-10 & E-07+ tires onto the Alpina STS 2 tubeless wheels (Blue rims, Black hub and spokes).

Alpina STS 2 tubeless wheels (blue rims, black hub and spokes). It's a darker blue hue than the factory blue wheels.

TLnMy9Qh.jpg

 

 

Some rear brake work:

 

Installed the AltRider Dual Control rear brake lever. I may need to adjust the brake lever slightly lower. Early on I found myself resting my foot on the rear brake lever that I caught myself slightly dragging the rear brake on a couple occasions. I'm more used to it now, so my foot doesn't rest on it anymore. The rear brakes are much more responsive and I don't have to crank my foot down so much to get the maximum rear braking leverage.

  • Larger lower level brake lever surface for the sitting down position, for easier foot manipulation of the brake lever.
  • The higher smaller brake lever surface for when I'm standing on the pegs (when off-roading), for easier foot manipulation of the brake lever when standing.

Galfer sintered rear brake pads. Much better than the  OEM pads (rear pads replaced @ 8,150 miles).

UMLj1wVh.jpg

 

jBdobrah.jpg

 

Installed  the Primary Drive Rear Chain Guide, install went super easy. High quality components and replaceable rub blocks and are readily available separately.

This is the OEM rear wheel. You can see the anodizing worn off on the edges of the rim from a couple whole days of ADV riding/wheel spin in deep deep sand. This is not from curbing on rocks.

JizSS1Ch.jpg

 

Installed T-Rex Racing front axle sliders. T-Rex makes high quality products and I currently have several of their products on two of my other motorcycles. This will help protect the outside facing lower fork guard bolts from shearing off and possible damaging the lower fork structure.

01zZu4Jh.jpg

 

You can see how far out the plastic UHMW-PE (ultra high molecular weight polyethylene) puck sticks out from both sides. So, the front wheel should deflect off big rocks protecting the lower fork guard bolt. Also, if I lay the bike down on asphalt, this should protect the lower fork body.

uNOJXs5h.jpg

Edited by REDHORSECA
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REDHORSECA Enthusiast

REDHORSECA

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Some T700 videos of my Off-Road ADV friends and I:

 

Anza-Borrego Desert State Park

 

Joshua Tree National Park Off-Road Loop

 

Rowher Flat OHV

 

Lake Arrowhead and Big Bear National Forest

 

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REDHORSECA Enthusiast

REDHORSECA

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I'll be doing a ride in a Dual Sport and ADV ride/rally at the local mountain resorts in Big Bear California this weekend with some friends.

 

I had to make sure my T7 will pass the motorcycle inspection before the start of the ride. I have the Camel high exhaust and it lacks a spark arrestor as required for riding in the US Forest, at least in California.

 

I'll be doing the Swanky Cat Camel exhaust mod with the same $13 spark arrestor screen insert.

 

1 PC-Cone-Type Spark Arrestor Screen 1.625”– By RG WIRE MESH $13 @ AMZ

 

Here are the diameter of the spark arrestor screen flange and the exhaust bushing ring inside the Camel exhaust. Basically I have to take the spark arrestor screen flange from 56.6 mm down to ~51mm.

XBCDRr4m.jpg  08jjrbTm.jpg

 

Spark screen flange now ground down to ~51mm. I used the exhaust bushing ring as a template and used a black permanent marker to mark how much of the screen flange I had to remove. I used a bench grinder to grind the flange down. It took me about 15 minutes, as I was being careful not to take too much off the screen flange.

d05Q1I2l.jpg  WfIIz47l.jpg

 

The Spark arrestor screen fits in perfectly now in the Camel exhaust inlet pipe. I put the screen cone point facing into the muffler. Then placed the exhaust bushing ring on top of the screen flange to sort of hold it in, while I put the Camel exhaust back onto the T7.

7Ho0WWTl.jpg    Q1yeEfol.jpg

 

The T7 with the Camel high exhaust should now be USDA Forestry legal now. This should easily pass motorcycle inspection now. I run the exhaust without the DB killer installed. I'll bring the DB killer just in case they say it's too loud.

 

 

Edited by REDHORSECA
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