T7 1 Finger Clutch

[simonr]

3 hours ago, simonr said:

I use the middle one. Tried it with the lever in all positions, no avail.

I will try later today with the stock lever and see if I can get it to work.

Hope I didn't ruin my clutchplates on the test ride. Could it be that I warped them already? And is that what's causing me trouble to get the right adjustment?

Refitted the OEM lever, installed the Camel arm (middle hole) one spline up from center, set correct free play at the lever and did some testing on the centerstand:

- little kick when engaging 1st gear but nothing out of the ordinary, engaged the clutch and let the wheel spin a little. When pulling the lever back in, the wheel keeps spinning

- in 2nd gear the wheel stops spinning when fully clenching the lever.

 

If it wasn't for me being such a noob I guess this could teach me something.

[Aleksandar13]

4 hours ago, simonr said:

I use the middle one. Tried it with the lever in all positions, no avail.

I will try later today with the stock lever and see if I can get it to work.

Hope I didn't ruin my clutchplates on the test ride. Could it be that I warped them already? And is that what's causing me trouble to get the right adjustment?

I'm using aftermarket levers and managed to adjust mine perfectly... Takes a bit of time, but I would say you need to come at least one or two tooth towards the front... I don't think you have ruined the plates so quickly,...  

[Camel ADV]

7 hours ago, simonr said:

Refitted the OEM lever, installed the Camel arm (middle hole) one spline up from center, set correct free play at the lever and did some testing on the centerstand:

- little kick when engaging 1st gear but nothing out of the ordinary, engaged the clutch and let the wheel spin a little. When pulling the lever back in, the wheel keeps spinning

- in 2nd gear the wheel stops spinning when fully clenching the lever.

 

If it wasn't for me being such a noob I guess this could teach me something.

 

Even on a totally stock bike, there is clutch drag at idle. If you put the bike on the center-stand or block under the skid plate so the rear tire is off the ground, the rear tire will still turn even with the clutch pulled in all the way. When you disengage the clutch, the gap between the plates is tiny. The oil between the plates is enough to lightly drive the rear wheel... especially when the bike and oil are both cold. 

 

 

 

[simonr]

18 hours ago, Camel ADV said:

 

Even on a totally stock bike, there is clutch drag at idle. If you put the bike on the center-stand or block under the skid plate so the rear tire is off the ground, the rear tire will still turn even with the clutch pulled in all the way. When you disengage the clutch, the gap between the plates is tiny. The oil between the plates is enough to lightly drive the rear wheel... especially when the bike and oil are both cold. 

 

 

 

Obviously I was needlessly obsessing about this.

Learnt something, thanks for that!

[Goldentaco]

Just installed mine and adjusted well with ASV levers.  Middle hole works great and I had plenty of adjustment to get right.

 

J

[MikeCMP]

I have had the opportunity to use mine in some gnarly offroad this past weekend and it was awesome - fingers were not tired at all, bike was nice and easy to control. Still getting used to the engagement zone but I love it. 

 

Mike

[simonr]

Got mine working perfectly  now.

Really liking it so far.

[Camel ADV]

8 hours ago, simonr said:

Got mine working perfectly  now.

Really liking it so far.

 

Great to hear!

[ADVUSA]

Thanks Cory!  Just installed mine, it's great and will help on heavy clutch days for sure. Setting in the middle works fine.

 

[Landshark]

This is a must have product for the T7 owner.  The first ride out and my wrist was sore from pulling the clutch lever.  I am now a proud owner of a 1 Finger Clutch product from Camel Adv.  Problem solved.  5 Star.

[ADVUSA]

29 minutes ago, Landshark said:

This is a must have product for the T7 owner.  The first ride out and my wrist was sore from pulling the clutch lever.  I am now a proud owner of a 1 Finger Clutch product from Camel Adv.  Problem solved.  5 Star.

Yes Sir,  we're lucky Cory created it!  Same, sore hand on a longer days ride. Cory state the T7 pull force is in the middle range for bikes, not too light, not to tough!  Definately more mechanical advantage now. 

[Camel ADV]

11 hours ago, ADVUSA said:

Thanks Cory!  Just installed mine, it's great and will help on heavy clutch days for sure. Setting in the middle works fine.

 

 

The middle is sweet spot for me too.

[JayD]

I understand how a longer arm creates a wider friction zone- but I’m not 100% sure how a wider friction zone will feel. I often experience a slight jump/jerk during upshifts when the clutch lever is close to fully extension. As I release the clutch I feel it travels for a long distance and then suddenly I hit complete engagement. Will a wider friction zone give me more time/movement to sort my shifting out? 
 

I’ve already ordered it, but I like to know/learn

[Alan M]

2 hours ago, JayD said:

I understand how a longer arm creates a wider friction zone- but I’m not 100% sure how a wider friction zone will feel. I often experience a slight jump/jerk during upshifts when the clutch lever is close to fully extension. As I release the clutch I feel it travels for a long distance and then suddenly I hit complete engagement. Will a wider friction zone give me more time/movement to sort my shifting out? 
 

I’ve already ordered it, but I like to know/learn

I tend not to use the clutch on up shifts, only on the way down. Just release the throttle to unload the dogs and a quick, positive shift of the gear lever.

[JayD]

First test ride with the new clutch arm - it’s simply brilliant!

 

Another fantastic product by Camel ADV.

[Offcamber]

Just got around to installing mine and all I have to say is wow! I never thought it would make that much of a difference. Its not so much the lighter clutch pull but the increased fritction zone that made the difference for me.  This will make feathering the clutch a breeze. 

 

Highly recommend! 

 

 

[Jeepaolic]

Was installing mine tonight and don’t know what I did wrong but seems like I don’t have a clutch anymore, or like the clutch is stuck . From the beginning the arm wasn’t going all the way back after pulling  the handle, so I dismantled everything to play with the arm and it does nothing, like I’m in 1st gear and I pull the arm forward and still cannot move the bike....  followed Cory’s video by the book but must have done something wrong... don’t want to open the clutch but looks like something got stuck in there while playing the arm back and forth.. any ideas?

[Camel ADV]

1 hour ago, Jeepaolic said:

Was installing mine tonight and don’t know what I did wrong but seems like I don’t have a clutch anymore, or like the clutch is stuck . From the beginning the arm wasn’t going all the way back after pulling  the handle, so I dismantled everything to play with the arm and it does nothing, like I’m in 1st gear and I pull the arm forward and still cannot move the bike....  followed Cory’s video by the book but must have done something wrong... don’t want to open the clutch but looks like something got stuck in there while playing the arm back and forth.. any ideas?

 

If it's not returning all the way, it sounds like the arm is in the wrong position on the shaft and the return spring is running out of ... spring before the arm is back.

Please post a picture of the arm installed on the shaft with you pushing it as far forward as it will go with moderate pressure.

[Jeepaolic]

Spoiler

Spoiler

 

 

Also when I move the arm without spring and cable I do not feel any resistance like nothing is connected in there 

Edited June 30, 2021 by Jeepaolic

[Jeepaolic]

To my understanding I should be able while in first gear when I pull the arm forward to move the bike like I would be in neutral . am I right Because it is like I can’t be in neutral anymore accept if I use the shifter

[Hobes]

Don't exactly remember how far T7's clutch will go, but it seems your clutch isn't even opening if the image is clutch lever pulled in. If you push the arm towards the front of the bike there is a point where it just stops. Before that there is some light resistance from a spring, but that is not the actual clutch.  That stop position is the point where clutch starts to pull clutch plates apart. You cannot push the lever enough for clutch to disengage only with your bare hands (unless you possess inhuman strength). Compare arm position when pushed all the way with fingers vs clutch lever pulled in. If they're roughly the same you need to tighten your clutch wire or change lever position.

 

[Jeepaolic]

The spring is on the outside right juste below the arm. I am not aware of another spring inside the case. With the spring removed i can play back and forth with the arm but i feel no resistance, like if the shaft that goes inside the case is disconnected. It juste move front and back from stop to stop 

 

I took a video but can put it here 

Edited June 30, 2021 by Jeepaolic

[Jeepaolic]

https://youtube.com/shorts/IbGnPtUkPjY?feature=share

 

 

note that I remove the spring for the demonstration and put back the oem arm

Edited June 30, 2021 by Jeepaolic

[Hobes]

Yep. When you hit a stop on the front side, that's when it actually starts compressing clutch springs. It's not disconnected. Adjust your clutch wire so that there is small play on arm before it stops. After that your clutch should work just fine. It feels like it stops but the springs are just extremely stiff. You need leverage from the clutch lever to get it moving cannot move the lever with your bare hands. Remember moderate force when trying this, if there really is something fishy going on in your clutch, force might do more harm. If this won't work, then there's something really strange going on in your clutch.

[Jeepaolic]

So even if I remove the exterior spring It should have an inside spring for the pressure plate  am I right?

 

thanks will try that tonight