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2 Wheel DynoWorks

T7 Dyno Graph Breakdowns

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Hammerhead

This is a fantastic wealth of straight shooting information.  No bias smoke screen sales pitches attempting to sell unnecessary over priced gear. Just honest experienced  professional info to help everyone make educated affordable choices for what suits their riding & bank accounts best. Much appreciated @2 Wheel DynoWorks!

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2 Wheel DynoWorks
3 hours ago, MikeCMP said:

@2 Wheel DynoWorks When you guys advocate removing the snorkel, do you remove the entire snorkel, or can you just remove the part the protrudes waaaayyy into the airbox and leave some / all of the tube above the airbox. My non-expert opinion made me figure that the part protruding into the airbox was likely responsible for all the restriction since iots down past a good deal of the air filter. I like there being a "lip" of some kind on the top of the airbox to keep the little bit of stray water that makes it way there out. 

 

Took advantage of the black friday sale just need to decide when to take the ECU off and mail it in. Looks like riding season is just about done for me as we are getting a foot of snow in the next couple days 🙂

The ENTIRE snorkel needs to go. Both the portion protruding into the airbox AND the 90 degree bend into the lid are restrictions. Just yank the whole thing out and toss it in the trash.

 

-2WDW

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dashredder

Just got my T7 and took a look at that snorkel when installing a Battery Tender lead.  

 

- Is there a way to use a pre-filter on that airbox after the removal of the snorkel?  Any specific suggestions?  Have a run up the NVBDR planned and I imagine there will be plenty of sand and dust to contend with.

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dashredder

And how with the T7 perform with this flash when using 87 octane gas?  Of course I'll buy 91 or 93 when available, however, it can be days at a time that I can't buy anything but 87 on some of the rides.  

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dashredder

Found this in another thread from @2 Wheel DynoWorks

 

"We've seen time and time again on the dyno that these engines do NOT like to operate on 87 octane under heavy load/high temperatures anyway. After a few full throttle passes, the power starts to drop dramatically as engine temperatures increase and heat soak sets in. You'll experience this on AND off road after a couple hours of riding, or SOONER, if it is a particularly warm day and you're riding aggressively. We HIGHLY recommend only ever using premium (91-93) pump gas in these engines, even in completely stock configuration. You can find 91 virtually anywhere that you can find 87, so it's just a non-issue, honestly."


I agree most metro area fuel stations provide 91 or 93, however, many of the (very) rural areas some T7 riders plan on going only sell 87.  Like for days at a time.  I've had plenty of tuned bikes in the past and they all worked until I could get a proper fill.  I just want to be certain the bike will run and not fall into a shut down condition if the fuel is less than ideal for a few tanks.  

 

--ALSO, is the fan temp change to 195 from stock (over 200 I belive) a necessity or can I retain the stock temp or provide a custom number for turn on?  I ask about this because I had a former bike (BMW) that had a lowered fan on temp and it literally never shut off if I came to a stop or slow roll.  Looking forward to hearing back.     

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2 Wheel DynoWorks
On 1/10/2021 at 9:16 AM, dashredder said:

Found this in another thread from @2 Wheel DynoWorks

 

"We've seen time and time again on the dyno that these engines do NOT like to operate on 87 octane under heavy load/high temperatures anyway. After a few full throttle passes, the power starts to drop dramatically as engine temperatures increase and heat soak sets in. You'll experience this on AND off road after a couple hours of riding, or SOONER, if it is a particularly warm day and you're riding aggressively. We HIGHLY recommend only ever using premium (91-93) pump gas in these engines, even in completely stock configuration. You can find 91 virtually anywhere that you can find 87, so it's just a non-issue, honestly."


I agree most metro area fuel stations provide 91 or 93, however, many of the (very) rural areas some T7 riders plan on going only sell 87.  Like for days at a time.  I've had plenty of tuned bikes in the past and they all worked until I could get a proper fill.  I just want to be certain the bike will run and not fall into a shut down condition if the fuel is less than ideal for a few tanks.  

 

--ALSO, is the fan temp change to 195 from stock (over 200 I belive) a necessity or can I retain the stock temp or provide a custom number for turn on?  I ask about this because I had a former bike (BMW) that had a lowered fan on temp and it literally never shut off if I came to a stop or slow roll.  Looking forward to hearing back.     

There's no parameter in the ECU that would ever cause a shutdown situation due to running 87 octane instead of 91+ in a pinch.

 

The stock fans do not come on until 215* F. Optimal cylinder temperatures for optimal combustion and performance is 195*F, which is why the fans will come on at 200 and shut off at 190.

 

-2WDW

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