T700 very long bike, handling

[Firebolter]

4 hours ago, mpatch said:

I have auto clutches on a few dirt bikes and love them. Never had one on a big bike. Where did you order yours from?

My TM dealer is a Rekluse dealer , so I got it from him and had him drop it in while he was doing my suspension mods.  I have them on my 300 2T  and my 500 4T and love them off road, but this is the first "street" like bike I have run it on and it just makes traffic so much easier. So nice not to have to touch the clutch in the woods and with the bike being taller than my "normal" dirt bikes, I never worry about stalling it now in slow speed stuff. Just pick a line and roll it on-

 

This is the T7 part# from Rekluse's site.   

i

PRICE

$679.00

PART#

RMS-6307007

Edited March 12, 2021 by Firebolter

[exiledinaus]

On 11/14/2020 at 3:48 PM, Osprio said:

I was just about to start a new topic with regards to on-road behavior rather than the many topics we see here which focus on off-road behavior. I have done 7k miles over the last 4 months, around 95% on A, B and Motorway roads. The bike is really good and very steady in all conditions in it's factory set up but with a bit of adjustment it is simply great.

The front in it's original state did feel a bit light and not as planted as i would have liked for higher speed cornering and the back a bit on the soft side leaving you with a wollowing feeling when you are on the throttle exiting a corner.

I spend 4 hours yesterday with a suspension set up specialist and £90 later, after a number of measurements, tweeks and track trials, i am gobsmacked with the difference it has made, without any need for buying aftermarket hardware (a note on this at the end of this reply).

 

This is a detailed list of the final settings for my weight:

T7 Suspension settings for road use

 

Fully clothed / 95 kilo

 

Turn everything all the way anti-clockwise

 

Forks

 

raise both forks up 4mm (lowers front by 4mm)

 

Compression (bottom of forks)

 

11 clicks clockwise

 

Rebound (Top of forks)

 

11 clicks clockwise

 

Rear Shock

 

Preload

 

Full / all the way  clockwise

 

Static sag 20mm (perfect)

 

Sag 58-62 mm  (perfect)

 

Compression (top of spring)

 

18 clicks clockwise

 

Rebound (bottom of spring)

 

14 clicks clockwise

 

Tyres

 

Front

 

Continental KTC 70

 

90/90 21 M/C 54H TL M+S

 

Pressure 30 PSI

 

Rear

 

Continental KTC 70

 

150/70 R18 M/C 70H TL M+S

 

Pressure 34 PSI

 

Note: the preload is no doubt on the limit for my weight and for touring there is a need to change to an 80nm rear shock. Costs around £80-90 and £50 for fitting.

 

This is really helpful thanks - who did your suspension set up?

 

 

[mpatch]

On 11/14/2020 at 8:48 AM, Osprio said:

I was just about to start a new topic with regards to on-road behavior rather than the many topics we see here which focus on off-road behavior. I have done 7k miles over the last 4 months, around 95% on A, B and Motorway roads. The bike is really good and very steady in all conditions in it's factory set up but with a bit of adjustment it is simply great.

The front in it's original state did feel a bit light and not as planted as i would have liked for higher speed cornering and the back a bit on the soft side leaving you with a wollowing feeling when you are on the throttle exiting a corner.

I spend 4 hours yesterday with a suspension set up specialist and £90 later, after a number of measurements, tweeks and track trials, i am gobsmacked with the difference it has made, without any need for buying aftermarket hardware (a note on this at the end of this reply).

 

This is a detailed list of the final settings for my weight:

T7 Suspension settings for road use

 

Fully clothed / 95 kilo

 

Turn everything all the way anti-clockwise

 

Forks

 

raise both forks up 4mm (lowers front by 4mm)

 

Compression (bottom of forks)

 

11 clicks clockwise

 

Rebound (Top of forks)

 

11 clicks clockwise

 

Rear Shock

 

Preload

 

Full / all the way  clockwise

 

Static sag 20mm (perfect)

 

Sag 58-62 mm  (perfect)

 

Compression (top of spring)

 

18 clicks clockwise

 

Rebound (bottom of spring)

 

14 clicks clockwise

 

Tyres

 

Front

 

Continental KTC 70

 

90/90 21 M/C 54H TL M+S

 

Pressure 30 PSI

 

Rear

 

Continental KTC 70

 

150/70 R18 M/C 70H TL M+S

 

Pressure 34 PSI

 

Note: the preload is no doubt on the limit for my weight and for touring there is a need to change to an 80nm rear shock. Costs around £80-90 and £50 for fitting.

 

You sure about those directions? I have never heard of anybody starting from all the way out. 

 For baseline always start at 0 then count clicks out (counter clockwise), never the opposite.

[DucHolliday]

19 hours ago, Firebolter said:

My TM dealer is a Rekluse dealer , so I got it from him and had him drop it in while he was doing my suspension mods.  I have them on my 300 2T  and my 500 4T and love them off road, but this is the first "street" like bike I have run it on and it just makes traffic so much easier. So nice not to have to touch the clutch in the woods and with the bike being taller than my "normal" dirt bikes, I never worry about stalling it now in slow speed stuff. Just pick a line and roll it on-

 

This is the T7 part# from Rekluse's site.   

i

PRICE

$679.00

PART#

RMS-6307007

@ firebolter: I have a question to you: When you change then gears do you use the clutchlever ?

[mpatch]

48 minutes ago, DucHolliday said:

@ firebolter: I have a question to you: When you change then gears do you use the clutchlever ?

You don't need the clutch to shift Rekluse or not. I very seldom use the clutch to shift any of my bikes. 

[Firebolter]

1 hour ago, DucHolliday said:

@ firebolter: I have a question to you: When you change then gears do you use the clutchlever ?

HELL NO-

 

I have been riding autoclutches for years. Just accelerate and when you want to shift, roll off the throttle for a split second, shift and back on the gas. I use throttle blips for down shifts. You can still use the lever, but you DON'T NEED TO. The lever will feel much firmer now to the pull because there is a certain amount of "preload" on the clutch rod that cause the clutch to "release" when not under revs.

I always tell guys, go ride one, not for 5 minutes around your buddies yard, get out on the trail and in traffic. No more stalls, just pick a line and go-

 

And I agree with Mpatch, I rarely use my clutch for shifts when I ride on my non-autoclutched bikes. Clutch less shifting is easy, if you know how.

Edited March 12, 2021 by Firebolter

[mpatch]

52 minutes ago, Firebolter said:

HELL NO-

 

I have been riding autoclutches for years. Just accelerate and when you want to shift, roll off the throttle for a split second, shift and back on the gas. I use throttle blips for down shifts. You can still use the lever, but you DON'T NEED TO. The lever will feel much firmer now to the pull because there is a certain amount of "preload" on the clutch rod that cause the clutch to "release" when not under revs.

I always tell guys, go ride one, not for 5 minutes around your buddies yard, get out on the trail and in traffic. No more stalls, just pick a line and go-

 

And I agree with Mpatch, I rarely use my clutch for shifts when I ride on my non-autoclutched bikes. Clutch less shifting is easy, if you know how.

Does the Rekluse for the Tenere have an override option in case you need to bump start it?

[Firebolter]

1 hour ago, mpatch said:

Does the Rekluse for the Tenere have an override option in case you need to bump start it?

It does not have the adjustable slave like my hydraulic clutch bikes  do since it is a cable accuated clutch. Adjustment is done at the perch, so you could back out the adjustment and bump it, then crank the adjuster back in and do the "lever" test to make sure you got it back to where it needs to be. 

Edited March 12, 2021 by Firebolter