T7 Weight reduction Facts

[Jurra]

Does anyone know how much the OEM center stand weighs, including mounting hardware?

[T7 Mule]

10-11lbs. I removed mine to use trail. 

 

 

[Guest]

If you don't mind—I've just begun a little file with some weights I got from my 2021 Ténéré 700 in Mat Black 2 and some other sources as well. The list is organized according to the Yamaha Parts Catalogue. 

 

Upfront: 16 Liters of Unleaded Gasoline weigh appr. 11.250 kg to 12.400 kg 

 

11 EXHAUST

0.140 kg #02 BEH-E460B Exhaust Pipe, Protector Muffler

4.800 kg #11 BEH-E4711 Muffler 1

 

19 FRAME

0.750 kg #22 BEH-F1471 Protector, Engine (Skid Plate, Aluminium 2,3 mm)

 

20 FENDER

0.305 kg #20 BW3-F1685 Bracket, License

0.090 kg #25 BW3-F163A Cover, Rear Fender

 

22 REAR ARM

0.216 kg #16 11D-F2311 Case, Chain (Chain protector)

0.265 kg #32 BW3-2217M Arm 1 (2 pieces in total)

 

28 SEAT

1.255 kg #01 BW3-F4710 Single Seat Assy (same weight for the standard and the 2 cm lower version)

0.750 kg #08 BW3-F4750 Tandem Seat Assy (Pillion/Passenger Seat)

 

33 STEERING HANDLE

0.866 kg #23 BW3-F6280/90 Rear View Mirror Assy left + right total

 

42 FLASHER LIGHT

0.354 kg #01, 05, 09, 13 Front + Rear left + right, Flasher lights

 

47 ELECTRICAL 1

3.200 kg #01 %VY-82100 Battery Assy (YUASA YTZ10S)

Edited January 16, 2023 by TéNéRéLOADED

[Revy]

I would be curious to ride a "lightweight" t7, but tbh I'm very skeptical its worth the effort. It'll never be a 210 lb enduro bike. Yes, some mods like exhaust and lithium battery are reasonable weight savings mods, but after that you are in the real of diminishing returns. The price of a brand new full titanium exhaust kit probably comes close to 1/4 of the price of a used reasonably good condition enduro bike.

Look, if you're very rich and have money to burn, please be my guest, but I think a lot of us would be better off with a 2nd or 3rd steed in the garage rather then thousands of dollars of bling on one bike.

I understand different peoples situations are different, but thats my $0.02.

[OK185]

I don't think think tubeless wheels will drop 2kg.

I sent my rims for a tubeless conversion and weighted the standard tubes to  1.110g.

Tubeless conversion will also require some kind of sealing material, so I'd say it's just a 500g weight saving realistically. Sadly I forgot to weigh the stock rims before I sent them off. 

 

Also just fitted a Lithium battery for an exact weight saving of 2.278g now that the stock battery died. 

(834g Sykrich HJT10S vs 3112g stock Yuasa YTZ10S)

 

That's almost enough weight saved to compensate for a lightweight sleeping bag+tent if you think of it this way.

 

I think the easiest way for weight saving on this bike is a lithium battery + exhaust, maybe remove passenger footpegs for about 1KG, and not fit any unneded hard parts to the bike and don't take along 3kg of tools.

Everything else that comes afterwards you will run into diminishing returns IMO. 

Edited January 16 by OK185

[Lewie]

Or go on a diet ?

[sunndog]

I'd love to feel I lean weight t7 too just to feel the difference.

 

I'm a reformed ultralight hiker so these rabbit holes are more than familiar. 

 

A saying was lbs are cheap grams are expensive.

Diminishing returns is a thing but the only way to lose as much weight as possible is to do everything possible. 

I was more skeptical before I read this thread. Seriously impressive weight loss lads

[Totti]

It’s cheaper to drop 5 - 10 kg from the driver. And better results.

[eyeguy]

Does the noco nlp9 look like a good choice? Would the smallest of the noco batteries  nlp5 be enough for the bike?

[Hollybrook]

If you are going to use a lithium battery, you should get one with a good battery management system (BMS) built in. Also, you need a charger that is designed for lithium batteries. 

 

Lithium battery fires are extremely difficult to put out, which is why you need the BMS to avoid them.

[random1781]

50 minutes ago, Hollybrook said:

If you are going to use a lithium battery, you should get one with a good battery management system (BMS) built in. Also, you need a charger that is designed for lithium batteries. 

 

Lithium battery fires are extremely difficult to put out, which is why you need the BMS to avoid them.

Or you might have stumbled on a technique to further reduce the weight of the bike!

[eyeguy]

For sale on amazon and it says they have a great BMS but just didnt know if I was missing anything else. $93 and less than 1/2 the weight. The more I read about it the less clear it seems to be if the tenere charges a lithium effectively or not. Guess if I had to hit it with a true lithium charger once every month or 2 that would be no big deal to keep it conditioned or whatever the right word would be.

[random1781]

22 minutes ago, eyeguy said:

For sale on amazon and it says they have a great BMS but just didnt know if I was missing anything else. $93 and less than 1/2 the weight. The more I read about it the less clear it seems to be if the tenere charges a lithium effectively or not. Guess if I had to hit it with a true lithium charger once every month or 2 that would be no big deal to keep it conditioned or whatever the right word would be.

As long as a battery (any kind) is getting constant 14V+ from the bike, they will work fine. Lithium batteries are actually a bunch of smaller batteries put together, so it's important for the longevity of the whole battery that each of those individual batteries are equally charged. Unfortunately a lot of companies don't go into detail about what their BMS actually does, but Noco does say that theirs does cell-balancing and everything else, so it'll handle that itself and you can treat it like a lead acid/AGM battery on the vehicle with no additional maintenance.

 

When it comes to chargers, a lot of chargers are designed specifically for lead acid or AGM batteries. They'll do things like vary the current and voltage, which doesn't work for lithium batteries. So generally, a lithium charger is actually just a "dumb" charger that doesn't do any of these things. There are battery-specific exceptions, like Shorai's charger, which connects to each cell and does cell-balancing, presumably because the BMS itself doesn't.

 

I've never heard of Noco before for some reason, but wish I had. They seem like a legit company with reasonably priced batteries.

[Hibobb]

@random1781 You are like a Super Geek (In a good way). What a wealth of knowledge!!!

[Hollybrook]

Noco is a legit company and makes quality products.  Just looking at their website, they are saying the right things about their BMS functions for the NLP9 that @eyeguy is looking at.

 

Even some of the batteries without a BMS do have cell balancing circuit boards built in.  A BMS does more than cell balancing.  It should also monitor individual cell temperatures and voltages to avoid exceeding maximum safe values.  This will maximize battery life and avoid the possibility of a thermal runaway, which can happen quickly and is catastrophic to the battery and anything around it.  LiFePO4 batteries are not the most likely to have a thermal runaway, but it can and does happen.

 

Antigravity Restart batteries have a proper BMS and also an internal jump start battery in case you run the main battery down.  I'm not sure if this is better, or just carrying a jump start pack would suffice for most folks.  I have a 6-week trip coming up this summer and will be replacing my battery before the trip as it has gone flat a couple of times and I don't want to get stuck on the trail.  I'm not sure which way I will go on this but am looking into options.

 

Lithium Ion batteries do not like very cold or hot temperatures, so an AGM battery like the one that comes with the T7 can be better if you often are in remote areas at very cold temperatures.  To get around the cold weather issues, you can turn on your headlight for a few minutes to warm up the battery, but I have heard folks with LED lights have had issues generating enough current flow to warm the battery.  With the T7 this is even more difficult since the headlight does not come on until the motor is running.

[Hollybrook]

@eyeguy while researching batteries for my bike, I came across a comment on ADVRider that you might be interested in.  Granted that it was by someone from Antigravity,  I thought it was appropriate as I also had concerns when looking at the capacity of the NLP9.  If I were to go with a Noco, it would be the NLP14.

 

https://www.advrider.com/f/threads/motorcycle-batteries-agm-gel-wet-lithium-iron-phosphate-lifepo4.757934/page-162#post-48960509

[eyeguy]

Hollybrook , Thanks for the link was a good read. Not sure how much draw our/my bike has to affect the low amp hours but makes sense that more is a good thing when some draw is present. 

[Alf Meister]

On 1/16/2024 at 7:58 AM, OK185 said:

I don't think think tubeless wheels will drop 2kg.

I sent my rims for a tubeless conversion and weighted the standard tubes to  1.110g.

Tubeless conversion will also require some kind of sealing material, so I'd say it's just a 500g weight saving realistically. Sadly I forgot to weigh the stock rims before I sent them off. 

 

Also just fitted a Lithium battery for an exact weight saving of 2.278g now that the stock battery died. 

(834g Sykrich HJT10S vs 3112g stock Yuasa YTZ10S)

 

That's almost enough weight saved to compensate for a lightweight sleeping bag+tent if you think of it this way.

 

I think the easiest way for weight saving on this bike is a lithium battery + exhaust, maybe remove passenger footpegs for about 1KG, and not fit any unneded hard parts to the bike and don't take along 3kg of tools.

Everything else that comes afterwards you will run into diminishing returns IMO. 

Please don’t take this the wrong way…. You have slightly contradicted yourself there, you say you don’t think tubeless wheels will drop 2kg and then rightly say “don’t take along 3kg of tools. I would say tubeless will drop atleast 2kg due to the deletion of said weighty tools to fix a puncture on a tubed tyre. Best weight saving as you say, battery, silencer, passenger footrest hangers and I’d add, unnecessary fuel, don’t ride with a full tank if you won’t need it. 

[OK185]

Yes, that was basically second biggest reason to go tubeless. Now I just carry a tiny plug kit and pump instead of bulky and heavy tools that have to be stored somewhere. (Biggest reason is that I never want to have to change a tube on the road but I don't want to get into that discussion )

 

I think some people underestimate just how much weight and bulk tools add to luggage. It's probably the heaviest and "dense" stuff you can bring along.  Just two levers alone will be 1kG which is a sleeping bag, or quite a bit of clothing or whatever. 

 

About Lithium batteries:

The whole Lithium battery space seems like a huge grey zone where nobody realls knows what is good or not. I'm sure Antigravity makes great batteries but you can't even get them in Europe and they seem to criticize every other brand out there on the ADVRider thread. I didn't do a whole study on it and just fitted the Skyrich 10S which is specified as a direct replacement for our Yuasa model and has good reviews on Amazon. KTM also seems to mount them as OEM in their dirt bikes. I hope it won't blow up on me or leave me stranded. If it's really cold I guess I can use the heated grips to warm it up somehow? 

 

 

 

 

[Static]

On 12/14/2022 at 2:29 PM, Jurra said:

Does anyone know how much the OEM center stand weighs, including mounting hardware?

The OEM center stand weighs 4kg. Yesterday I weighed it.
I plan to make the center stand myself, taking into account the pros and cons of the OEM center stand. I'll focus on its weight.

[Static]

On 1/18/2024 at 10:12 PM, Totti said:

It’s cheaper to drop 5 - 10 kg from the driver. And better results.

Cheaper... Are you suggesting not to eat? Going to the gym is not very cheap :))

[mcbrien]

No need for a gym. Just push your Tenere around. You will lose weight and be ready to push if needed.

[Totti]

On 1/23/2024 at 10:00 PM, Static said:

Cheaper... Are you suggesting not to eat? Going to the gym is not very cheap :))

The gym, 25 € per month, expensive.

New Akrapovic, 999 € (-1 kg from the bike), cheap!

[Static]

1 hour ago, Totti said:

The gym, 25 € per month, expensive.

New Akrapovic, 999 € (-1 kg from the bike), cheap!

The gym - it’s not a fact that in a month)))

New Akrapovic - immediate results

I am for the new Akrapovic

[OK185]

I think riding a light-built T7 will feel different to most T7's on the road. 

The single mods won't make it a different bike but you have to sum up everything and compare it to the average full of bars and accessory parts T7 riding around, which probably weighs like 230-40KG.

 

I remember even removing 5KG of crashbars made the bike feel more agile left to right before I got used to it again. I still think it's worth it to remove weight from this bike. 

 

The biggest difference IMO will be riding with minimal lightweight luggage vs an overloaded T7 with bags on carriers far out from the bike. I sat on such a bike and could barely get it off the sidestand. I'm sure it rides absolutely awfully. 

 

And the discussion about body weight does not make that much sense to me. A lighter bike will ride better and be easier to lift up regardless of weight. (Just take a look at Botturi )