Tenere 700 Rekluse Auto Clutch!

[pgeldz]

There are many options for slipper clutches on our bikes.  I'm running a Suter in my FZ-07, but there are more, like the one from Spears Racing, YoyoDyne, etc.  They are out there, and if they fit the FZ-07, they fit the Tenere 700, as it's the SAME EXACT ENGINE.  The difference between them is the air box, gearing, and supposedly engine mapping to a slight degree.  But the engine and it's internals are IDENTICAL.

 

- Paul

[Noel McCutcheon]

^ A Rekluse is more than a normal slipper clutch.

 

As Rekluse is an anti-stall auto clutch too.  
 

Rekluse can idle in gear with clutch lever out, with no stalling especially designed for off-road bikes use.
 

What is spoke about ^ above are anti-wheel-skipping back torque limiting clutches for counteracting high compression engine braking.
 

Don’t confuse these these are different types of clutch that operate differently. 
You are coming from a road / race track perspective Paul and Rekluse from an off-road perspective.   

[pgeldz]

15 minutes ago, X Plane said:

^ A Rekluse is more than a normal slipper clutch.

 

As Rekluse is an anti-stall auto clutch too.  
 

Rekluse can idle in gear with clutch lever out, with no stalling especially designed for off-road bikes use.
 

What is spoke about ^ above are anti-wheel-skipping back torque limiting clutches for counteracting high compression engine braking.
 

Don’t confuse these these are different types of clutch that operate differently. 
You are coming from a road / race track perspective Paul and Rekluse from an off-road perspective.   

Understood completely, but my response was in reference to @Ride & Shine who said he wanted a slipper clutch, not an auto clutch

[Noel McCutcheon]

1 minute ago, pgeldz said:

Understood completely, but my response was in reference to @Ride & Shine who said he wanted a slipper clutch, not an auto clutch

Ah, I see,

[Ride & Shine]

Hi Pgeldz, thanks for the info, I'm not that technically minded and would appreciate a pointer or link to a slipper clutch that would slot straight into the T700 with minimal impact on current characteristics plus little or no additional work required...any ideas? Thanks in advance...

[pgeldz]

17 hours ago, Ride & Shine said:

Hi Pgeldz, thanks for the info, I'm not that technically minded and would appreciate a pointer or link to a slipper clutch that would slot straight into the T700 with minimal impact on current characteristics plus little or no additional work required...any ideas? Thanks in advance...

https://www.bellissimoto.com/parts/clutch/wet-clutches-1/slipper-clutches-1/Spears-Racing-Wet-Slipper-Clutch-Yamaha-FZ-07-MT-07-FJ-07-Tracer-700-XSR700

 

Here is one, but BellissiMoto can do Suter, Yoyodyne, Rekluse, and others also...

 

Whatever you decide, they can help you out

 

- Paul

 

 

 

[Ride & Shine]

Thanks Paul...really appreciated!

[Cruizin]

1 hour ago, Hogan said:

Rekulse "auto clutches"... yeah about that..

 

Best way to think of them is as an anti-stall device. They are not a true auto clutch.

There is no mechanism to disengage drive while changing gears so you still have to use the clutch to change gears.

Compare that to a Honda CT which is a true auto-clutch. The shift lever also acts as a clutch release lever, disengaging the clutch just before it shifts the gear.

If the T7 was fancy enough to have a quick shifter, it wouldn't be a problem.

Rekluse combined with a quickshifter would make for a true auto-clutch.

Of course you could clutchless shift like you can on any bike, but personally that's not something I'd do or recommend.

 

 

 

 

 

 

No man, I have Rekluse clutches on all of my off road bikes for years now. You don't pull the clutch lever to change gears. In fact, I and many people remove the clutch lever and replace it with a rear brake lever.  But you can also just leave the bike in 3rd gear and tractor up and down most any hill offroad and not stall the bike. 

 

 

But here is a very good explanation of the Rekluse Auto clutch.

 

 

And like I said, alot of people including myself, just remove the clutch lever altogether. Believe me, you won't miss it. You still shift, just dont need to use a clutch lever. Or, leave it on and use it.  I prefer having rear brake on the left lever. Makes power slides alot more fun and better controlled. 

 

 

[KTM2smoker]

I've had a Rekluse on my 200xcw for 4000 single rocky  track miles. I'd say it's not the idle with clutch lever out that it's there for. What it does is slip the  clutch for you at lower rpm while crawling through gnarly terrain. I ride it a gear higher and let it slip the  clutch for me while I concentrate on my line through the  boulders. And I always pull in the clutch to shift, that's also not it's purpose and I'd think you're pounding the tranny doing that. I also have a Rekluse LHRB lever above the  clutch.  Don't think I'll get it for my Tenere', I'd think it would be more expensive to maintain but I don't know if it's miles or abuse that wears it out!

[BLZ2DWL]

On 2/5/2020 at 8:58 PM, Cruizin said:

When you let off the gas, there is zero engine braking because thats when the clutch engages and you just coast freely. 

That is not my experience with the Rekluse at all. It has full engine braking when simply letting off the throttle. Pulling in the clutch breaks the connection and you lose engine braking. But if you just let off the throttle, it stays engaged and works as you'd expect. 

 

A drawback is parking: if you aren't moving there is no gearbox connection, so you can't park (or stop) on an incline without using the brake. 

[Firebolter]

I am installing a Rekluse on mine. I run them on my 300 and 500 KTM's. Once you ride with an autoclutch, you WILL NOT ever want to ride off road without one. In traffic or other slow speed work, it makes life so easy! Rock gardens become laughable when you run an autoclutch. Hill climbs and "bad line" choices are much easier on a autoclutched bike. Doing a 180 pivot turn on a tight trail is a piece of cake with a autoclutched bike. Power up to a corner, lock up the rear brake, slide into the turn and squirt out without ever touching the clutch or worrying about stalling the motor.

 

Myths:

1. A Rekluse is a slipper clutch. Nope, it is not. It is an autoclutch, there is a difference.

2. You still need to use the lever to change gears. No you don't or need it for stops or anything else actually. I have ridden HD's with Rekluse's and you DO NOT need to ever touch the lever. You can if you want, but you don't need to. And the lock up and torque transfer is superb. you merely let off the gas for a split second, shift and back on the gas.

3. Shorter clutch life. Nope, longer because the clutch is always applied correctly to the amount of RPM's you are spinning the motor. Now if you start off a gear too high from a stop alot or be lazy and not downshift sometimes, you can wear the clutch out sooner. On my 300 Husaberg, I had 120 hours on that bike and the plates looked like new when we rebuilt it. In fact, that bike is still running on the stock plates with over 200 hours on them.

 

For most T7 guys, yeah it is not needed, but for those that will do ST some, maybe some rocky trails, it will be a really nice addition. If you spend a alot of time in traffic, autoclutches are a gift from god!

Edited December 2, 2020 by Firebolter

[bikeever]

1 hour ago, Firebolter said:

I am installing a Rekluse on mine. I run them on my 300 and 500 KTM's. Once you ride with an autoclutch, you WILL NOT ever want to ride off road without one. In traffic or other slow speed work, it makes life so easy! Rock gardens become laughable when you run an autoclutch. Hill climbs and "bad line" choices are much easier on a autoclutched bike. Doing a 180 pivot turn on a tight trail is a piece of cake with a autoclutched bike. Power up to a corner, lock up the rear brake, slide into the turn and squirt out without ever touching the clutch or worrying about stalling the motor.

 

Myths:

1. A Rekluse is a slipper clutch. Nope, it is not. It is an autoclutch, there is a difference.

2. You still need to use the lever to change gears. No you don't or need it for stops or anything else actually. I have ridden HD's with Rekluse's and you DO NOT need to ever touch the lever. You can if you want, but you don't need to. And the lock up and torque transfer is superb. you merely let off the gas for a split second, shift and back on the gas.

3. Shorter clutch life. Nope, longer because the clutch is always applied correctly to the amount of RPM's you are spinning the motor. Now if you start off a gear too high from a stop alot or be lazy and not downshift sometimes, you can wear the clutch out sooner. On my 300 Husaberg, I had 120 hours on that bike and the plates looked like new when we rebuilt it. In fact, that bike is still running on the stock plates with over 200 hours on them.

 

For most T7 guys, yeah it is not needed, but for those that will do ST some, maybe some rocky trails, it will be a really nice addition. If you spend a alot of time in traffic, autoclutches are a gift from god!

Keep us up to date

[Canzvt]

This conversation sounds a lot like the manual/auto transmission discussion for automobiles...make it easy please...I guess we all have different preferences and/or abilities. I've ridden a Rekluse equipped bike in the bush (ST,mountains,etc) and in the snow (Snowbike) and it is interesting, but I can't say I will spend money on one. I find my WR450, YZF450 (Snowbike) and T7 are one finger clutch easy and VERY easy to ride. I didn't/don't see the benefits of the Rekluse for me in my experience other than making me lazy (like the automatic car transmission). I guess my trials background and being an older dog, keep me from learning new things...

[NvNick]

I’ve rode with a Rekluse and went back to using the clutch. The Rekluse can make up for a lack of clutch finesse but i’m not there yet. Even been riding with some of the guys from Rekluse. Its a great product that can help some riders out.

Personally i like having to think about what i’m doing and apply it.

[Firebolter]

I got mine installed and all set up while I was having my suspension done. Just went out and put 50ish miles on it for break in. 

 

Like my other bikes, I have mine set to engage right off idle, so slow speed rock work is gonna be so much easier. One thing I never hear people talk about is, it is not so much the ability to finesse the clutch in crappy conditions, I can modulate and apply the clutch just fine, but it is the rider energy you save from no more arm pump and not having to constantly work the clutch in the slow speed stuff. Trust me, in a normal ride in my area (east coast and rocky and rooty) I can tell a difference in my energy at the end of the day if I am on my TM versus one of my KTM's in the rock gardes of Pa. And never get arm pump anymore-that's huge for me.

 

Anyway I picked the bike up and brought it home yesterday and did the first ride with the new suspension and rekluse today. Started it up. It was 40 degrees when I went out. Let the bike idle and warm up for 2-3 min in neutral and then dropped it into first, did not touch the lever. Rolled on the throttle and took off. Like my other 2 bikes with rekluses (2 KTM's), I let off the throttle  a little and slip it into 2nd, no lever--smooth and predictable shift. To down shift, just a slight blip of the throttle and kick it down a gear, smooth as the upshifts. Yamaha transmissions are always nice and positive where as the KTM's can be alittle vague on the rider feel from the up/down shifts. That's one place the Japanese bikes seem to do better, trannies and smoothness of them IMO.

 

You do not "need" to EVER use the lever if you don't want to but you have to know how to do clutchless shifts. Even on my TM250 (without a autoclutch) I only use the lever to start off and rarely ever use it to shift up or down. I rode 50sih miles today and never once used the lever. Went off road some and then in town in traffic and then out on the highway to check out high speed. Works like a champ. I did do a little slow speed off road stuff and love when you are in traffic just rolling up to the light, down shift into 1st or second and then roll off when it turns green. When you are stuck in traffic, makes it alot less pain full as well as you are not creeping along and constantly working the clutch. Just remember to always start off in 1st or 2nd from a dead stop. if you use 3rd it will slip the plates too much and wear them more than normal. It will do it, but you'll hear it slipping, just like it would if you tried to start off in 3rd and use the lever.

 

Now it will make you lever MUCH stiffer feeling if you do add one. Reason being, on a cable bike, a rekluse is adjusted at the lever and the clutch has to have some pressure on the pressure plate to set the gap, so there is no slack in the lever when it is adjusted correctly on a cable bike. On a hydraulic bike, you set the gap of the pressure plate at the clutch slave and not the lever, so that is why your lever will feel much firmer and no play in the lever. LEAVE IT LIKE THAT!

 

There are not for everybody, some guys don't like them, but I do. Glad I added mine, i know how much easier loose, rocky and rooty trails are gonna be now.

Edited January 10, 2021 by Firebolter

[Firebolter]

On 12/6/2020 at 1:10 AM, Hogan said:

 

 

As I said before, most riders are getting way with clutchless shifting because of certain situations that make it an easier thing to do.

Not really, it has nothing to do with any "certain situations", it is knowing how to clutchless shift. Take off and throttle up and when you are ready to shift, let off just a bit on the gas and shift, she'll click in and back on the gas. To down shift, just blip the throttle and as you are blipping it, down shift, click into the lower gear. It has nothing to do with any special conditions, it is merely knowing how. Like i said, even on my 250 with no rekluse, I rarely ever use the lever for shifting, but I am comfortable and know how.

Edited January 10, 2021 by Firebolter

[Firebolter]

5 hours ago, Hogan said:

If you think you have the technique down pat then perhaps you should prove it to yourself by trying it in a car or truck.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

You can, not as easy as a dirtbike and nowhere near as smooth, but can it be done. I don't need to prove anything, see I have rekluses on bikes, I have 100's of hours riding and racing with them. I KNOW HOW THEY WORK. Face it, guys without lots of time or experience with something, shouldn't post what they don't know about.

[gone2seed]

Thanks for review FB!

Edited January 11, 2021 by gone2seed

[Ol'crazy]

The truth is that I have not tried a Rekluse clutch and I cannot comment, but it is difficult for me to imagine how you can dose the amount of friction you want to apply to the clutch depending on the specific situation in which you need it.

 

And what I do know is that I had a Honda X-Adv with DCT gearbox for 6 months and I sold it because it didn't give me the slightest security as soon as I left the asphalt.

 

A question: is it possible to make a wheelie with the Rekluse without using the clutch lever?

[cstatman]

19 hours ago, Ol'crazy said:

question: is it possible to make a wheelie with the Rekluse without using the clutch lever?

well, this mad bastard seems to think its possible, and spends ~ 6 mins showing us
 

 

[Ol'crazy]

5 hours ago, cstatman said:

well, this mad bastard seems to think its possible, and spends ~ 6 mins showing us
 

 

Certainly, although it is not exactly the same bike 

[kyle01]

Hundreds of hours on the Rekluse clutches in all of the Betas I’ve had... and for real gnarly single track I couldn’t go back to a regular clutch- the reduction in arm pump is just incredible.  Spend a whole day in snotty, rocky, rooted singletrack and never suffer from a cramping left forearm... most days I shove her into second (or 3rd... as others have said- you can typically ride a gear high) and game on!  Concentrate on tire placement, good lines, Mother Nature- whatever floats yr boat... but you won’t need to worry much about what gear you’re in or stalling when you get in the open and haul ass then need to scrub major speed before dropping back into the woods- can’t stall it!  Lock that rear brake up- no issue.  Not a slipper clutch at all (in function) but in form- does so quite effectively.  Not sure I’d like it on my Tenere (or need it) but will attest to the fact that when set up correctly (super easy) they last and last and last.  You’re gonna be swapping oil more often (you should be) but not a huge deal.  Only thing I would caution anyone against is getting used to the characteristics they exhibit while engine braking down a hill- you’ll reach a point (when the RPM’s come down and wheel speed is low) that it WILL disengage.  Now, this is normal and when you’re used to it there are ways around it (keeping revs up or a quick throttle blip will lock it back up) but it never fails and some guys just can’t (or won’t) figure it out.  It’s not magic, but it’s a GREAT rider aid and at the end of the day makes riding some spots I probably shouldn’t be possible- it really evens the playing field once you learn how to use it.  

[cstatman]

17 hours ago, Ol'crazy said:

Certainly, although it is not exactly the same bike 

cmon, you asked if you could wheelie with a recluse,  NOT if you could wheelie a T7

:)

[Luis Amorim]

Hi folks, anybody install a rekluse in your bikes. I just did I have some doubts. 
It works fine but does not let me engaged gears with bike stoped without press clutch. 
if I press clutch I can engaged 1 or 2 gear, but if I increase throttle, bike try to move, even with full lever press. 
I expected not to uses lever to engaged when stoped.

please help. 

[mpatch]

1 hour ago, Luis Amorim said:

Hi folks, anybody install a rekluse in your bikes. I just did I have some doubts. 
It works fine but does not let me engaged gears with bike stoped without press clutch. 
if I press clutch I can engaged 1 or 2 gear, but if I increase throttle, bike try to move, even with full lever press. 
I expected not to uses lever to engaged when stoped.

please help. 

You don’t have the freeplay set correctly. 
From neutral (clutch lever out) when you put in in gear you should barely feel it, just a small rpm drop and a tiny push forward. 
 

The cable needs to be way tighter than you’d think. 

Edited August 4, 2021 by mpatch