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What have you done for your T7 today?


Noel McCutcheon

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On the left, replaced the stock cigarette socket with a voltmeter combo with 2x USB outlets.

On the right, replaced the blank with a Merit socket, connected via fuse directly to the battery.

Useful for running external lights from the battery, or plugging in a battery charger as shown.

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On 5/14/2021 at 9:43 AM, williestreet said:

Installed 6.3N fork springs and 90N shock spring.

Only a short ride but the bike feels better with a much more firm feel.  Hopefully I can get out on a longer ride next week and get the damping sorted.

 

I will ride the bike for a while before I revalve the forks and local suspension shop will do the shock at some point.  I want to get a better feel of what it needs before I send it off to the local shop.

 

 

 

 

B43E4F89-67DC-4924-8926-C76B25DB9EED.jpeg

 

My set is arriving this week from TekNik Motorsport. I'm a similar weight to you and ordered the progressive 6-8.0Nm fork springs and 9.0Nm rear shock spring.

TekNik have a spring rate calculator for most makes and models, based on your weight.

I added 20kg to my static weight to allow for gear, boots and bags.

Motorcycle Adventure Dirtbike TV have a great video to explain how to setup your T7.

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I replaced the stock levers (shown for comparison) with these folding CNC milled levers.

If the levers take a knock, they'll fold instead of snapping.

They also look better than stock, IMO.

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Edited by Outbacker
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On 8/31/2019 at 4:21 PM, X Plane said:

Nice job. You could take orders for those grab rails.

Agree. Great job. Looks professionally done.

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Added an adjustable screen kit. It allows about 100mm of movement.

I have a tall torso and found the stock screen allowed turbulent air to hit my helmet.

More comfortable now with a raised screen.

Blue adjustment knobs to match the wheels 😋.  Tasty.

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On 9/15/2022 at 1:31 AM, DT675 said:

I got this Kedo part, its a fuel cap holder meant to be mounted on a kedo dash bracket that I did not need.  My install method is a little gimmickey to say the least but fully functional.  Im not interested in the aftermarket hinged fuel caps, so this solution works for me.  I could probably at least turn the zip-ties around so it looks a little better maybe...

 

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Nice one . . .

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On 9/11/2022 at 6:24 PM, random1781 said:

Knocked out the @Camel ADV rally bend along with a Leo Vince decat. It's weird hacksawing a bike.

 

PXL_20220911_190854361.jpg.360907adda9c787edf390157dbf6f53f.jpg

 

Also swapped out the Outback Motortek rack for the Adventure Spec rack, but I need some additional hardware for it to work on the exhaust side.

 

 

Please expound on the need for additional hardware on the exhaust side.  Seeing the front mounting bolt missing, are you just needing the correct length spacer or something else?  Thx.

 

"Men do not quit playing because they grow old, they grow old because they quit playing" Oliver Wendell Holmes - Mods - HDB handguards, Camel-ADV Gut guard, 1 finger clutch, The Fix pedal & Rally pipe, RR side/tail rack, RR 90nm spring & Headlight guard, Rally seat, OEM heated grips- stablemate Beta 520RS

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3 hours ago, AZJW said:

Please expound on the need for additional hardware on the exhaust side.  Seeing the front mounting bolt missing, are you just needing the correct length spacer or something else?  Thx.

I wound up adding 20mm of spacers to each mounting point for the rack along with bolts that were actually 30mm longer than the bolts that came with the rack. I personally felt that there wasn't enough threading going into the bike. Picture attached for reference.

 

So the ORIGINAL components of the Adventure Spec rack are:

 

1 - M8x60 / 20mm OD, 9mm ID, 40mm L spacer

2 - M8x80 / 20mm OD, 9mm ID, 60mm L spacer

3 - M6x16 screw

 

I used:

 

1 - M8x90 / 60mm L spacer

2 - M8x110 / 80mm L spacer

3 - M6x40 / 20mm L spacer

 

It turns out these components are hard to find locally, so I used a mix-match of spacers and bolts that are not stainless for the time being.

 

PXL_20220913_202857042.jpg.96c7309d73d7c76009f07423ddaaf11e.jpg

 

I'm probably going to drill the racks to add some better mounting points for bags, specifically the Kriega OS 18s. I think for my use case the Rally Raid rack would have been better, but it was backordered.

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advgoats.com

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Finally took the time and greased the suspension linkage. The bearings itself were greased (sufficient for smooth operation), but the bolts were not. I was generous and let them have their share. I feel better now with winter coming.

I skipped the upper bolt on the damper (it is not as much exposed to the elements) and the one where the connecting arm is screwed to the chassis (couldn't reach it properly with my torque wrench to tighten it to spec, maybe I shouldn't be overthinking this...).

During this process, I removed the rear wheel for the first time and was suprised the sprocket assy just fell off 😂 Ok, now I understand the small rubber dampers between sprocket and rear hub. And now the torque for the rear axle nut makes more sense to me.

Removing and reinstalling the rear brake along with the rear wheel was a bit cumbersome, but I'm glad I did this at home for the first time (and not on a trip in the dark when it's raining).

 

@NomadSweden made a great video on it:

 

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@Teneridertip: when putting back your rear axle, do it from the other side, meaning the axle nut on the right side. In this way you can use you strengh of your foot to push the wrench to losen the nut. Its easier then by hand.

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2 hours ago, Tenerider said:

Finally took the time and greased the suspension linkage. The bearings itself were greased (sufficient for smooth operation), but the bolts were not. I was generous and let them have their share. I feel better now with winter coming.

I skipped the upper bolt on the damper (it is not as much exposed to the elements) and the one where the connecting arm is screwed to the chassis (couldn't reach it properly with my torque wrench to tighten it to spec, maybe I shouldn't be overthinking this...).

During this process, I removed the rear wheel for the first time and was suprised the sprocket assy just fell off 😂 Ok, now I understand the small rubber dampers between sprocket and rear hub. And now the torque for the rear axle nut makes more sense to me.

Removing and reinstalling the rear brake along with the rear wheel was a bit cumbersome, but I'm glad I did this at home for the first time (and not on a trip in the dark when it's raining).

 

@NomadSweden made a great video on it:

 

i use a cable tie to hold the brake bracket whilst i offer up the wheel.

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45 minutes ago, bth2 said:

i use a cable tie to hold the brake bracket whilst i offer up the wheel.

Great simple solution!

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Almost completed my tool roll (tire irons yet missing, not sure yet which I'm gonna buy):

 

20220924_181658.jpg.e5cf461f929638dc4f0776b11e7319a4.jpg

 

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Plus, took her out for a ride with two buddies on 1100 AT (one "classic", one Adventure Sports DCT). We switched bikes during our ride, very interesting. Their handling is great, really nimble, nice engine (though more low frequency vibrations), great seat comfort. However, these are road bikes, to be honest. By no means do they feel like an enduro, seat position is really different: more like sitting "in the bike", not "on the bike". But ergonomics, controls, gearbox, clutch are all one step above the T7. Very well build, DCT might have its advantages offroad really, but I completely disliked it! The non-DCT bike was a joy to ride, the DCT was rather boring and a bit annoying.

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7 hours ago, Ray Ride4life said:
motion-pro-beadpro-bead-breaker.jpg

Motion Pro has the solution: the BeadPro Bead Breaker. With this innovative tire tool, you will get every tyre off the rim.

 

They are on top of my list. Expensive, but lightweight and they seem to work with very tight tires.

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1 hour ago, Tenerider said:

They are on top of my list. Expensive, but lightweight and they seem to work with very tight tires.

I used them at home and on the trail and even at home now to put the tyres back on because i had some pinchflats with the irons that came with the tyre machine.

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14 minutes ago, Ray Ride4life said:

I used them at home and on the trail and even at home now to put the tyres back on because i had some pinchflats with the irons that came with the tyre machine.

That says it all - thanks Ray, will order a set before my next serious travel.

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20 hours ago, Ray Ride4life said:
motion-pro-beadpro-bead-breaker.jpg

Motion Pro has the solution: the BeadPro Bead Breaker. With this innovative tire tool, you will get every tyre off the rim.

 

 

I second them, have a set of the shorties for about 5 years now and they do their job quite well. The short ones does require a bit more force on harder tires though.

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4 hours ago, transalper said:

Mounted some Shinko 804/805s.  I liked em on my GS.  So far they are good on road and gravel.

 

20221002_120936.jpg.f31cb4f6682eddb80c79f5d60d57a651.jpg

Like mine but liked the Pirelli MT21’s better for off road traction. Unfortunately the front howled like an banshee above 40mph on the street and it was simply too annoying. Here is my take in the Shinkos. https://ultimatemotorcycling.com/2022/06/10/shinko-e-804-and-e-805-adventure-tires-review-project-yamaha-tenere/

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Just now, Coastie said:

Ordered a one piece Seat Concepts Comfort High seat.

 

Not trying to be “personal” but I have experience with the SC tall. What is your inseam?

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On 10/3/2022 at 6:45 PM, NeilW said:

Not trying to be “personal” but I have experience with the SC tall. What is your inseam?

36".  I ordered the seat with the softer foam so it should squish down a little when I am on it.

 

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26 minutes ago, Coastie said:

36".  I ordered the seat with the softer foam so it should squish down a little when I am on it.

 

I sent you a PM - call me. 

I am so jealous of people that can flat foot a T7. I would have only dropped mine 3x instead of 12 if I had that inseam.

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On 10/3/2022 at 7:45 PM, NeilW said:

Not trying to be “personal” but I have experience with the SC tall. What is your inseam?

Hah I've got an SC Rally Tall myself. It's *tall*.  

 

The Tall Comfort is about 10mm shorter than the Tall Rally though, with softer foam.

 

With the stock seat and suspension  I could flat foot the T7 (with lots of room to spare) but now I can just get the balls of my feet down between the seat and being sprung for my weight. However, the riding position is MUCH improved. Combined with the 30mm lowered pegs, it's glorious.

 

I'm honestly surprised they make the tall Rally as tall as they do - it's great for me, but I've found I have to put the stock seat back on for anyone else to ride it because they can't get the kickstand up.  Theft resistance? :). Not many people are looking for a bike that sits at 35.5" seat height *with rider weight*. 

 

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