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What have you done for your T7 today?


Noel McCutcheon

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I guess parking brake to lock the front when you need to pick it up.

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3 minutes ago, NeilW said:

Serious question, why " pressurize the brake lever overnight " ?

 

 

Occasionally I'll get a bit of sponginess in the front brake lever after a lot of bumpy riding.  I've noticed it to be pretty common in all the bikes I ride in technical terrain. It's particularly noticeable if running a high ratio Brake caliper/master cylinder combo.  Pressurizing the lever overnight seems to clean it up. I've heard conflicting stories as to why it works and since I don't know which one may be true I'll just stick to "Seems to work". 

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Just now, Windblown said:

 

Occasionally I'll get a bit of sponginess in the front brake lever after a lot of bumpy riding.  I've noticed it to be pretty common in all the bikes I ride in technical terrain. It's particularly noticeable if running a high ratio Brake caliper/master cylinder combo.  Pressurizing the lever overnight seems to clean it up. I've heard conflicting stories as to why it works and since I don't know which one may be true I'll just stick to "Seems to work". 

Ok. Thanks. 

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6 hours ago, Ray Ride4life said:

I guess parking brake to lock the front when you need to pick it up.

I keep a short Velcro strap on the center of my bars for that purpose.  In a pinch, it can also be used for many other things.

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16 minutes ago, Hollybrook said:

I keep a short Velcro strap on the center of my bars for that purpose.  In a pinch, it can also be used for many other things.

Me too. But usually used to lock the front brake of  my Buddy's Triumph 1200 ADV. I seem to not drop mine around him for some reason.

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I installed:

 

Perun Moto tail rack. 

Rotopax lock and 1 gal container.

Kriega OS Base and 12L bags.

 

I also have a Kriega US30 to install on top of the gas can. 

 

 

Inked20230423_105723.jpg

 

 

Inked20230423_105711.jpg

 

 

20230423_105737.jpg

Edited by r1superstar
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More...I'm still fiddling with the positioning of the bags and base to find the sweet spot.

 

20230423_105706.jpg

 

 

Inked20230423_203859.jpg

 

 

20230423_203911.jpg

Edited by r1superstar
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I looped the bottom straps to the passenger pegs like this for a better fit.

 

 

20230423_153740.jpg

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17 hours ago, r1superstar said:

More...I'm still fiddling with the positioning of the bags and base to find the sweet spot.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

20230423_203911.jpg

@r1superstar I find that as long as they stay behind me and still attached to the bike, I am good. , but then again my bike looks like Sanford and Son's front yard with everything I have hanging on it. I am interested in how you are keeping the right bag away from the exhaust. 

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18 hours ago, r1superstar said:

I looped the bottom straps to the passenger pegs like this for a better fit.

 

 

20230423_153740.jpg

 

I do that with the RH strap of my Mosko 10L bags, to keep the strap away from the exhaust (Hp course Hi pipe) But I'll do it to the other side too.

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On 4/24/2023 at 3:57 AM, Windblown said:

 

... Pressurizing the lever overnight seems to clean it up. I've heard conflicting stories as to why it works and since I don't know which one may be true I'll just stick to "Seems to work". 

 

A bit like Roo whistles, no one really know why they work, or even if they work, but a lot of put them on the bikes all the same.

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On 4/23/2023 at 6:53 AM, Sparx said:

Unfortunately not, was itching to take it for a ride, so didn't take a pic without the rack on. But I will change the oil and clean the airfilter next weekend, so I can remove it then and take a pic if you want.

 

This is what the 400mm can (I just ordered the 400mm version vs. cutting down a 500mm) looks like without side racks.  I mounted mine to my Heed Rear bars instead of cutting the underside of the plastics that the directions recommend; if I didn't have the Heed rear crash bars, I'd have mounted it to the bolts under the tail instead.  I don't like cutting plastics. 

 

oZHuJ52.jpg

Edited by Wintersdark
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8 hours ago, winddown said:

 

A bit like Roo whistles, no one really know why they work, or even if they work, but a lot of put them on the bikes all the same.

Do they work? I did 25 roos in my previous 2 work utes.

Thank god I didn't own them. Insurance paid for work including 5 new bull bars!

Alcohol! No good story starts with a salad.

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33 minutes ago, Rider 101 said:

Do they work? I did 25 roos in my previous 2 work utes.

Thank god I didn't own them. Insurance paid for work including 5 new bull bars!

Glad you cleared this up. I thought it was some sort of Winnie the Pooh reference 😂

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11 minutes ago, Dougie said:

Glad you cleared this up. I thought it was some sort of Winnie the Pooh reference 😂

If Kanga or Roo get in the way they will end up like the last 25  :imaposer

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Alcohol! No good story starts with a salad.

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9 hours ago, Rider 101 said:

Do they work? I did 25 roos in my previous 2 work utes.

Thank god I didn't own them. Insurance paid for work including 5 new bull bars!

No, roo or deer whistles do not work. 
google it. 
the ultrasonic sound is higher than deer or roo can hear. 
slowing down is proven to help though. 
 

This is from a large insurance company in the USA. They would save a lot of money mailing them out BUT they dont work

 

Do deer whistles work?

Data currently doesn't support the idea that deer whistles work in reducing deer-vehicle collisions. According to a study from 2003, deer whistles are unlikely to produce a sound loud enough for deer to hear at a sufficient distance to avoid traffic encounters. Also, some whistles produce sounds at a frequency that deer can't easily hear. A 2018 review of scientific literature by Iowa State University indicates inconclusive data on the device's effectiveness but confirms they don't have any proven efficacy in preventing deer-vehicle collisions.

Edited by NeilW
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14 hours ago, Wintersdark said:

This is what the 400mm can (I just ordered the 400mm version vs. cutting down a 500mm) looks like without side racks.  I mounted mine to my Heed Rear bars instead of cutting the underside of the plastics that the directions recommend; if I didn't have the Heed rear crash bars, I'd have mounted it to the bolts under the tail instead.  I don't like cutting plastics. 

 

oZHuJ52.jpg

The 400mm can is not listed on their site anymore, so I figured I will just order the 500mm one and if needed I will just cut it. The 400mm can, when it was still listed, had a longer link pipe so it would put the can in the exact place the 500mm did unless you specified that you wanted the shorter link pipe with the shorter can. My line of thought was that I could tailor it to my needs as it is easier to trim the can neatly than to trim the link pipe, as I don't have access to a TIG welder and it worked out pretty good.

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Finally made the decision to go with the lowering links and installed Off The Road.de 25mm lowering links after several sketchy moments where I couldn't seat shuffle fast enough and almost hurt myself. The World Raid is MUCH more manageable now and I can touch both feet down at the same time. Finally feeling confident in low speed movements...The bike suddenly looks small compared to how it was. I'm amazed what the difference 25mm made!


Downsides, I need to put blocks under the rear tire to get it up on the OEM centre stand now...oof and I've ordered the Camel short side stand to replace the OEM one as now a stiff breeze might knock it over.

 

 

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26 minutes ago, EstRider said:

Finally made the decision to go with the lowering links and installed Off The Road.de 25mm lowering links after several sketchy moments where I couldn't seat shuffle fast enough and almost hurt myself. The World Raid is MUCH more manageable now and I can touch both feet down at the same time. Finally feeling confident in low speed movements...The bike suddenly looks small compared to how it was. I'm amazed what the difference 25mm made!


Downsides, I need to put blocks under the rear tire to get it up on the OEM centre stand now...oof and I've ordered the Camel short side stand to replace the OEM one as now a stiff breeze might knock it over.

 

 

You'll love the Camel stand - it's ultra-sturdy!

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1 hour ago, Tenerider said:

You'll love the Camel stand - it's ultra-sturdy!

Ha, I hope so. Given how hard the centre stand is to get on now I suspect I'll only be using it except when the bike is sitting in the Garage!

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42 minutes ago, EstRider said:

Ha, I hope so. Given how hard the centre stand is to get on now I suspect I'll only be using it except when the bike is sitting in the Garage!

I have had a similar problem: Raised the suspension by 25mm, and needed a longer sidestand.

My center stand wouldn't rise the rear wheel sufficiently.

So I dismounted it and bought a cheap but sturdy scissor lift. I do not regret it.

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2 hours ago, Tenerider said:

I have had a similar problem: Raised the suspension by 25mm, and needed a longer sidestand.

My center stand wouldn't rise the rear wheel sufficiently.

So I dismounted it and bought a cheap but sturdy scissor lift. I do not regret it.

 

How is life without the center stand? - I'm debating of getting rid of it in the quest to loose some weight and stop the clancking offroad. Also to install the Camel Brake fix I need to take the whole thing off which is a pain

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22 minutes ago, ScorpionT16 said:

 

How is life without the center stand? - I'm debating of getting rid of it in the quest to loose some weight and stop the clancking offroad. Also to install the Camel Brake fix I need to take the whole thing off which is a pain

Good plan, you won't miss it.  The Fix transforms the rear brake function and you can get a trail stand for home and/ or trailside maintenance and save weight at the same time, win/win. Here's a good one that I carry under my seat.  

 

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"Men do not quit playing because they grow old, they grow old because they quit playing" Oliver Wendell Holmes - Mods - HDB handguards, Camel-ADV Gut guard, 1 finger clutch, The Fix pedal & Rally pipe, RR side/tail rack, RR 90nm spring & Headlight guard, Rally seat, OEM heated grips- stablemate Beta 520RS

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Added a tail tidy to my 23. Nice fit and no cutting or splicing wires. 
 

file.jpg

Take the looks of your Tenere 700 to the next level with our rear fender eliminator kit (Tidy Tail). Fabricated from high strength aluminum, then anodized and...

 

Cannot take credit for the find on this. It was posted here by another member last week. I thought it looked nice and bought one. 
 

 

IMG_2916.jpeg

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58 minutes ago, ScorpionT16 said:

 

How is life without the center stand? - I'm debating of getting rid of it in the quest to loose some weight and stop the clancking offroad. Also to install the Camel Brake fix I need to take the whole thing off which is a pain

Honestly, better than I expected! I bought a trail stand as a replacement for use on the road - because it's needed anyways if you want to work on the front.

 

The mount annoyed me more and more, because it severely restricted access to the rebound adjuster, for example.

 

My scissor jack is so sturdy and simple to use, that I don't miss the centerstand for any task, from chain lubing to more sophisticated stuff. Plus, as you've pointed out, it needs to be removed for some tasks anyway which is really annoying.

Did I mention the weight saving?

And the scissor jack for being perfect when working on the front? The ability to deliberately choose the amount by which the bike is lifted is very convenient, too (think of wheel removal, suspension linkage service, ...).

 

To be honest, I stopped using the centerstand when on the road a long time ago. Too annoying to get her down when there is even a slight incline or a slanted road. Due to the latter, I even dropped her into a friend's car last year (totally my fault, I learned the hard way when NOT to use it).

I had only used it at home in my garage or shed after that, mainly because I was anxious about my kids to drop her (and get caught under her). Actually, the Camel Toe is that sturdy (and gives the bike the correct angle) that it's not very likely they'll be able to push her over, even if they tried very hard with joint forces.

 

P.S.: I got this trail stand, nice design and fancy looks. Not tested yet though. Bought this one because shipping from Europe was cheap compared to Endurostar:

 


Great for fixing flats, chain maintenance, and emergency repairs · Quickly jack one wheel off the ground · Supports 240+ kg...

 

Edited by Tenerider
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