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What have you done for your T7 today?


Noel McCutcheon

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1 hour ago, Vtamb81 said:

Definitely remove them before spraying. Just the 2 bolts on the front of the windscreen and a retaining tab in the rear that just slides out. Super easy. 

Cool, thank you. 

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Met a forum member this morning to do our T700 color parts swap.

 

He got my Black wheels and Red tail section and I got his Blue wheels and Blue tail section. We kept our original brake rotors and cush-drive/sprocket.

 

We took the parts off our bikes the previous day and drove to a motorcycle dealership about half way from each other and did the swap in the morning. 👍🙂

 

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Took her out and got her Dirty and showed some 450Ls how its done! We did 70 miles of loose gravel and wooped out mountain roads! Had a blast. We need some rain it was very dusty! She handle the dirt like a pro!

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Once you have tasted flight, you will forever walk the earth with your eyes turned skyward,for there you have been, and there you will long to return!

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Taking advantage of some good weather to get some break in miles on, 200 in a week, good start.

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11 hours ago, DT675 said:

New pegs like this are one of the next mods i’m thinking about. Yours look like boot shredders? Or hopefully not? Can i ask your height? I’m only 5’11’ but for whatever reason my knees start getting a little sore on this bike when they don't on my other bikes that are much more sport oriented.  I didn't think i wanted wider pegs until i rode the other day and found my boot constantly touching my exhaust heat shield. 

 

I'm 6' with a 34" inseam, so lowering and moving back the pegs definitely helped the ergos for me.

 

My Tech7 Enduro's don't show any marks after a long ride I took today, but I can see them shredding boots for sure!  Maybe I'll soften them up with a file if the boots start to show signs of premature wear.

 

I've noticed that the brake pedal is TINY after riding with these wider pegs though, so I have a larger touratech brake pedal on order.  Hopefully i'll miss my brake pedal less after i get it installed.

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8 hours ago, Timo said:

To be fair, I ordered and received within days. Mounting them was not that hard. The right side can’t flip up because it interferes with the centerstand though. Also the gear lever cannot be adjusted low enough. And boot schredders; yes I guess so. But... Riding position is super comfy now, finally 100% natural position for my 193cm. 
All in all, I wouldn’t recommend them.

 

Same story here with the delivery time.  Maybe they had a backlog they were working through?

 

About the gear lever.  I did grind away some of the metal to allow greater range of motion of the gear shifter.  Plenty of range of motion now.  If you look at the piece that stops the shift lever there is no need for it to be there, so I ground it off!  (I'll take pics on request)

 

As for durability, I crashed super hard on the left hand side today (hill climb, rocks, etc).  Ended up with my wheels pointed up the hill and had to pivot the bike 180 degrees so I could stand the thing up.  Most of that pivoting was done on the peg and it isn't worse for wear at all.  First pic is after most of the rotation and I needed a break...

 

That being said, the rear rack and the barkbusters did take the brunt of the impact.  I don't yet have the hard cases for the SW Motech rear rack so I can't say for certain if they would still fit.  A few pieces are a little bent now.

 

tenereDirtNap.thumb.jpg.5d4e27e69c1f618996227f49354a1dda.jpg

 

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So, to stay on topic, I gave my T7 her first of many scratches and bent some parts!

Edited by alpha3aax
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Actually did this two days ago but hopefully will have another update later today!

 

Attached the Mosko Moto Hood tank bag:

 

 

hood tank bag.jpeg

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Swapped the stock 15T front sprocket for a 16T. Not much different in 1st gear I still can start off in 2nd gear if I want to. 6th gear seems to be a little more laid back now. Only rode it down the road and back more riding later in the week. The larger sprocket just does fit and it reduces the wheel base to between 2nd and 3 mark on the rear adjusters. Not sure I like that part very much. Had to push wheel all the way forward and remove chain off rear sprocket to get it over the 16T front on install.

 

I do not like that CS nut design Yamaha uses on this bike. Mine felt cross threaded coming off and putting back on however is was not. The bend down tab locking nut is kind of cheesey. 70 ft lbs seemed kinda low, guess I am used to Suzukis at 83 - 105 ft lbs.

 

I did notice what appears to me oil on the shaft splines and 15T sprocket I removed. Not much but the case is damp looking around the seal so I will have to keep an eye out on this area. It was not chain lube, I am not a big chain oiler up type guy I let the oring chain do its job. Engine oil level is correct and not over filled like it was from the factory. I'm on my 2nd oil change in 3470 miles. Just changed it for 2nd time a week ago.

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Christmas has come early...

 

It is so light (titanium), I genuinely thought there was nothing in the box🤣.

 

Quality is stunning and it even comes with a spring puller.

 

Hopefully will fit tonight and ride report to follow (professional rolling road remap or Dynojet Vision 3 coming soon).

 

Rich

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On 4/14/2020 at 6:53 PM, Great Escape said:

Changed my 'short ' clutch lever to a longer version of the same,  the short brake lever is comfy to use but the short clutch lever is not,  your fingers pull against the balled end .  Cheers,  Steve 

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You should only use one or two fingers at the most to pull your clutch or brake lever.  The other fingers need to be wrapped around the grips for stability.

 

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2 hours ago, Husky Steve said:

 

I know that...and growing up with 2 strokes I always have a  couple of fingers on the clutch lever!!. My point is I personally don't like a short clutch lever...i have fairly big hands and it's uncomfortable. I don't know many people who just use 2 fingers on the clutch lever!😀😉💪 Cheers,  Steve 

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So I got to installing the Bumot rear rack and luggage racks today. Unlike many on this forum, I am not a gnarly dirt bike rider and am not going to use the T7 as a dirt bike but as a travel bike capable of taking me on forest service roads, two tracks, etc. while being fun and capable on the road. In going for that goal, I decided to go with soft luggage but with the option of hard luggage later for road/motel trips. I like the Bumot stuff and they publish final widths for all the bikes they offer luggage for. I liked that also.

 

The Bumot luggage racks and rear rack installed and with their soft luggage with random camping gear thrown into them with no particular care:

 

IMG_2708.thumb.jpeg.bfb34185a338037c8fd1c1cdcd8e66ac.jpeg:

 

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About 38" width on the soft luggage with it stuffed full.

 

 

Edited by wncrider
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Yes, I think this is the easiest motorcycle I’ve ever changed oil on in my life!  It makes washing the bike seem difficult. 

 

 

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On 11/1/2020 at 9:30 PM, alpha3aax said:

 

I'm 6' with a 34" inseam, so lowering and moving back the pegs definitely helped the ergos for me.

 

My Tech7 Enduro's don't show any marks after a long ride I took today, but I can see them shredding boots for sure!  Maybe I'll soften them up with a file if the boots start to show signs of premature wear.

 

I've noticed that the brake pedal is TINY after riding with these wider pegs though, so I have a larger touratech brake pedal on order.  Hopefully i'll miss my brake pedal less after i get it installed.

Anyone ever tried one of these? This seems interesting 🤔 

 

feature-altrider-dualcontrol-brake-syste

AltRider DualControl Brake System for the Yamaha Tenere 700 - The average person takes 0.5 to 1 full second to react to hazards. Traveling at 60 MPH, a rider will travel 25 to 50 feet before being able to properly react. Most OEM brake pedals have

 

 

 

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On 11/1/2020 at 11:01 AM, johnnygolucky said:

The T7 Rally pegs are lower and back and take less pressure off the knee cap and your leg can drop down a bit more. I have a pair, but it took 5 months to get and dozens of emails to finally get a response. 

Problem is they are boot shredders, super sharp, they bend like they're made of yogurt (lots of pics on here and elsewhere showing them bent inward, and another just snapped off) and there's the chance you might never get them even after paying, much less any communication from them concerning you never getting them. Mighty big chance to take, being they're across the pond if there's problems. IMS just started making a rally peg, same dimensions as these but just not dropped down. 

While I’m interested in wider/ longer pegs, if they don’t drop down a little it isn’t worth it to me. I’ll wait for some more options to crop up. 

 

 

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I got bored one day and googled “Tenere 700 3D print” and found this site that had a plan to make an “anti bobble head” plate. So I bugged a friend of mine with a 3D printer and BAME3940C9F-6B3F-4A6D-B0D3-A438023CB559.thumb.jpeg.c9964c6a8121eee402faf4adf4ea4174.jpeg

741F261A-AEF6-40DF-8D2E-D48FC0BD3FE9.thumb.jpeg.e552bcc14cd03b3844b3b7edb357cef1.jpeg

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On 11/2/2020 at 3:08 AM, REDHORSECA said:

Met a forum member this morning to do our T700 color parts swap.

 

He got my Black wheels and Red tail section and I got his Blue wheels and Blue tail section. We kept our original brake rotors and cush-drive/sprocket.

 

We took the parts off our bikes the previous day and drove to a motorcycle dealership about half way from each other and did the swap in the morning. 👍🙂

 

T4vj8Wc.jpg?1

 

cTZ3gv6l.jpg

was thinking of getting the white front fairing as well.. just the 2 mid one's.. should i keep em or should i go for black.. 

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1 hour ago, Baggey22 said:

I got bored one day and googled “Tenere 700 3D print” and found this site that had a plan to make an “anti bobble head” plate. So I bugged a friend of mine with a 3D printer and BAME3940C9F-6B3F-4A6D-B0D3-A438023CB559.thumb.jpeg.c9964c6a8121eee402faf4adf4ea4174.jpeg

 

Nice idea. But there will be a lot of repetitive stress on the cylinders connecting the eyelets to the plate. The stresses will be co-planar to the printing layers, which  are teh weak point of a 3D print. Will be interesting to see how this holds up.

Destinationworld.be - Journeys... not just travels | Discoveroverland.eu - Inspiring overland travel meetings

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got some heed crash bar installed.

subframe attachment is really nice. also 4 points instead of 2 is what made me get these.

love em already

 

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13 minutes ago, duibhceK said:

Nice idea. But there will be a lot of repetitive stress on the cylinders connecting the eyelets to the plate. The stresses will be co-planar to the printing layers, which  are teh weak point of a 3D print. Will be interesting to see how this holds up.

Yea. I figured I’d try it. The friend who printed it did a solid print since it would be subjected to lots of stress. 
it was free, if it lasts more than a few rides I’ll be happy. 

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On 11/2/2020 at 9:49 PM, DT675 said:

Anyone ever tried one of these? This seems interesting 🤔 

 

feature-altrider-dualcontrol-brake-syste

AltRider DualControl Brake System for the Yamaha Tenere 700 - The average person takes 0.5 to 1 full second to react to hazards. Traveling at 60 MPH, a rider will travel 25 to 50 feet before being able to properly react. Most OEM brake pedals have

 

So, I ran this on an AT for a number of months, and found it a bit confusing...the main purpose of this is that when you are sitting, your foot is arched back meaning you can easily tap the top pad. When standing, and assumingly riding more aggressively, your foot is rolled forward a bit, and maybe out a bit, meaning you can grab the lower pad. Maybe I just couldn't get used to it, but always seemed I was 'looking' for the pedal when I maybe had it, or I didn't or...

 

Further, their claims of reaction time are kind of bizarre. The math is correct, but if you are relying on your rear brake/tire to do anything significant to your pace in a panic reaction, your will probably be dead soon.

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I think I have Yamaha disease...

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Without going into the sometimes heated discussion of which crash bars are best, I wanted a more minimalist coverage to protect the plastic bits for low speed and stopped layovers (like I used to have with my Super Tenere!😒). I have no intention of doing any hard core dirt bike riding with this bike, so crash protection for trees and rocks at speed was not needed and concerns about mounting points were not really relevant.

 

With that in mind, I installed the lower SW Motech crash bars. I think the coverage is enough to do what I need. Eventually I will probably add one of the various bolt-on engine cover sets too. 

 

IMG_2716.thumb.jpeg.f718997398c4cf9fec4e201da2a2efdf.jpeg

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