Tenere 700 Rally Supermoto build, with 320mm braking discs

[k4T3M]

Hello everyone,

 

this topic hopefully as a help, but also as an introduction and thank you to Aleksander13 who already posted about most of the work. 

But better introduce when you also have something to share, right? 

 

For a few months since the purchase of the T7 beauty, I've been looking for a Supermoto conversion.

I absolutely love supermoto (do in on a track) and I just had to experience how the T7 would handle.

 

However, it's a great off road machine too, so I did not wanted to do anything that would make conversion back a hard thing.

So now, all I have to do now to go back to the offroad machinery:

 

1) Unclip the chain

2) Remove the wheels

3) Remove the brake pads

4) Remove the brake caliper spacers

5) Put on the front fender 

6) Put in the original wheels (with ABS rings and brake discs)

7) clip the chain and set the tension

8 ) Slide in the brake pads that go with the discs of the original wheels (to avoid re-bedding) 

 

-------

 

Below I'll outline the parts used.

 

- 17" tubeless wheels with Michelin Power Cup Evo wheels (more info on the wheels in Aleksander13's thread)

- Golden rims from Haan Wheels (to stay in line with the Rally livery) are 3,5 inch in the front and 5 inch in the rear

- ABS rings for 17 inch wheels from Aleksander13 (thanks!)

- Yamaha R1 2004-2006 brake discs 

- Rear brake disc in same livery (like them to be the same for the looks)

- New brake disc bolts front and read

- Extra rear sprocket (to avoid replacing them eveytime you switch wheels)

- New sprocket nuts

- Powerbronze front fender (same colour black as your fork protectors)

- Small piece of a second hand R1 front fender, to cover a portion of the front wheel for protection against the brake wires and dirt been thrown upwards

- 4x High tensile brake caliper bolts, 30mm. M10x1,25

- Spacer to move your brake calipers in the front into a new position for the 320mm discs. If someone needs these, you may PM me and can get you a set too. made them in 3D for CNC + anodising --> so they can be any colour. 

 

 

-------

 

Mounting time! 

 

Starting with the front wheel, everything fits in one go. The ABS rings from Aleksander bolt straight on. 

The Yamaha R1 discs fit perfectly with the bolt holes, however you need to grind away a small half moon on the discs at all 'tabs' of the ABS ring. 

The other side bolts on with no issue.

 

Mounted the spacers for the front brake calipers. 

Installed new pads. 

 

My chain is a 520 one, newly placed and make so that it fits both wheels (original one and 17").

 

Pictures attached! Still a bèta phase - I'm awaiting a some nice anodised brake caliper spacers and new braided cables, to run them both down each fork leg, instead of over the wheel like it has original now. 

Yes, it needs wash too (but then you guys would have to wait longer for this post).

And of course; great forum here! Hope I'm welcome.

 

 

Tako (Netherlands)

Edited March 15, 2021 by k4T3M

[tenerecanada]

Amazing pal! Really great to see another one all set up. Very nice work, thanks for the write-up.

[Aleksandar13]

8 hours ago, k4T3M said:

Hello everyone,

 

this topic hopefully as a help, but also as an introduction and thank you to Aleksander13 who already posted about most of the work. 

But better introduce when you also have something to share, right? 

 

For a few months since the purchase of the T7 beauty, I've been looking for a Supermoto conversion.

I absolutely love supermoto (do in on a track) and I just had to experience how the T7 would handle.

 

However, it's a great off road machine too, so I did not wanted to do anything that would make conversion back a hard thing.

So now, all I have to do now to go back to the offroad machinery:

 

1) Unclip the chain

2) Remove the wheels

3) Remove the brake pads

4) Remove the brake caliper spacers

5) Put on the front fender 

6) Put in the original wheels (with ABS rings and brake discs)

7) clip the chain and set the tension

8 ) Slide in the brake pads that go with the discs of the original wheels (to avoid re-bedding) 

 

-------

 

Below I'll outline the parts used.

 

- 17" tubeless wheels with Michelin Power Cup Evo wheels (more info on the wheels in Aleksander13's thread)

- Golden rims from Haan Wheels (to stay in line with the Rally livery) are 3,5 inch in the front and 5 inch in the rear

- ABS rings for 17 inch wheels from Aleksander13 (thanks!)

- Yamaha R1 2004-2006 brake discs 

- Rear brake disc in same livery (like them to be the same for the looks)

- New brake disc bolts front and read

- Extra rear sprocket (to avoid replacing them eveytime you switch wheels)

- New sprocket nuts

- Powerbronze front fender (same colour black as your fork protectors)

- Small piece of a second hand R1 front fender, to cover a portion of the front wheel for protection against the brake wires and dirt been thrown upwards

- 4x High tensile brake caliper bolts, 30mm. M10x1,25

- Spacer to move your brake calipers in the front into a new position for the 320mm discs. If someone needs these, you may PM me and can get you a set too. made them in 3D for CNC + anodising --> so they can be any colour. 

 

 

-------

 

Mounting time! 

 

Starting with the front wheel, everything fits in one go. The ABS rings from Aleksander bolt straight on. 

The Yamaha R1 discs fit perfectly with the bolt holes, however you need to grind away a small half moon on the discs at all 'tabs' of the ABS ring. 

The other side bolts on with no issue.

 

Mounted the spacers for the front brake calipers. 

Installed new pads. 

 

My chain is a 520 one, newly placed and make so that it fits both wheels (original one and 17").

 

Pictures attached! Still a bèta phase - I'm awaiting a some nice anodised brake caliper spacers and new braided cables, to run them both down each fork leg, instead of over the wheel like it has original now. 

Yes, it needs wash too (but then you guys would have to wait longer for this post).

And of course; great forum here! Hope I'm welcome.

 

 

Tako (Netherlands)

Tako looking great... I'm glad it came out as nice as it did...  Hopefully we can meet up one day and take them out for a spin..  

 

[TimeMachine]

13 hours ago, k4T3M said:

Hello everyone,

 

this topic hopefully as a help, but also as an introduction and thank you to Aleksander13 who already posted about most of the work. 

But better introduce when you also have something to share, right? 

 

For a few months since the purchase of the T7 beauty, I've been looking for a Supermoto conversion.

I absolutely love supermoto (do in on a track) and I just had to experience how the T7 would handle.

 

However, it's a great off road machine too, so I did not wanted to do anything that would make conversion back a hard thing.

So now, all I have to do now to go back to the offroad machinery:

 

1) Unclip the chain

2) Remove the wheels

3) Remove the brake pads

4) Remove the brake caliper spacers

5) Put on the front fender 

6) Put in the original wheels (with ABS rings and brake discs)

7) clip the chain and set the tension

8 ) Slide in the brake pads that go with the discs of the original wheels (to avoid re-bedding) 

 

-------

 

Below I'll outline the parts used.

 

- 17" tubeless wheels with Michelin Power Cup Evo wheels (more info on the wheels in Aleksander13's thread)

- Golden rims from Haan Wheels (to stay in line with the Rally livery) are 3,5 inch in the front and 5 inch in the rear

- ABS rings for 17 inch wheels from Aleksander13 (thanks!)

- Yamaha R1 2004-2006 brake discs 

- Rear brake disc in same livery (like them to be the same for the looks)

- New brake disc bolts front and read

- Extra rear sprocket (to avoid replacing them eveytime you switch wheels)

- New sprocket nuts

- Powerbronze front fender (same colour black as your fork protectors)

- Small piece of a second hand R1 front fender, to cover a portion of the front wheel for protection against the brake wires and dirt been thrown upwards

- 4x High tensile brake caliper bolts, 30mm. M10x1,25

- Spacer to move your brake calipers in the front into a new position for the 320mm discs. If someone needs these, you may PM me and can get you a set too. made them in 3D for CNC + anodising --> so they can be any colour. 

 

 

-------

 

Mounting time! 

 

Starting with the front wheel, everything fits in one go. The ABS rings from Aleksander bolt straight on. 

The Yamaha R1 discs fit perfectly with the bolt holes, however you need to grind away a small half moon on the discs at all 'tabs' of the ABS ring. 

The other side bolts on with no issue.

 

Mounted the spacers for the front brake calipers. 

Installed new pads. 

 

My chain is a 520 one, newly placed and make so that it fits both wheels (original one and 17").

 

Pictures attached! Still a bèta phase - I'm awaiting a some nice anodised brake caliper spacers and new braided cables, to run them both down each fork leg, instead of over the wheel like it has original now. 

Yes, it needs wash too (but then you guys would have to wait longer for this post).

And of course; great forum here! Hope I'm welcome.

 

 

Tako (Netherlands)

Awesome job!

Edited March 15, 2021 by TimeMachine

[k4T3M]

Here's another picture on the sidestand, with the suspension 'loaded'. 

 

Could only add 2 to the original post. 

 

[med.jeeves]

Beautiful SM build. Question on your brake set up. Any chance you know if that rear Gaffer wave rotor would fit the stock wheel/hub? Is it just the rear Gaffer wave for the 01-04 R1 as well?

[k4T3M]

On 3/21/2021 at 3:51 AM, med.jeeves said:

Beautiful SM build. Question on your brake set up. Any chance you know if that rear Gaffer wave rotor would fit the stock wheel/hub? Is it just the rear Gaffer wave for the 01-04 R1 as well?

Thanks for the kinds words.

No, the disc is just for the original T7's. I found it here, where I got the R1 discs for the front as well:

https://avdb-moto.fr/shop/en/rear-brake-disc/2389-rear-solid-brake-disc-245-mm-for-yamaha-mt07-fz-07-mt09-fz-09-xsr-tracer-700-900-fj-07-fj-09-3701208805196.html?search_query=DWARZC8106&results=1

Ordered on a Sunday, got them Tuesday. Amazing these days I must say. 

[k4T3M]

UPDATE!

 

For the interested people, I thought I share an update again on the above. Riding it for a year now and go more and more dialed in with the suspension and geometry. 

 

------ (New) parts

 

- Complete ABS removal. Pump removed and direct stainless braided braking lines

- Removed rear ABS sensor (and cable and protector on the swingarm)

- Radial master cilinder 17,5mm

- Stiffer springs in the front and rear (personal preference)

- HC Corse high exhaust

- Domino steel throttle assembly with replaceable cams and Domino cables (take the universal long cable set, they fit perfect)

- Slipperclutch

- RAM mount mirrors

- ProTaper Contour handle bar (and lowering by 1 cm)

- Quickshifter Healtech

- Some stickering on the tank, mainly for protection - but at least there's a bit of difference from others now

- Tuturo chain oiler (by intertia/vibrations)

- Stainless steel oil filter

- Vapour canister removal (just for looks/space) 

- High pressure radiator cap (1,6 bar) and removed the spill-tank

- Flashed ECU (Woolich software, DIY)

 

-------Story

 

As a reference; I race supermoto at karting tracks during weekend on a KTM dirtbike, so I hope I'm fairly familiar with what works and what doesn't. 

 

The Michelin Power Cups are a bit too vague for me for the use. Cold they are not there at all, so warm them up...good. Once warm, they still don't provide a whole lot of feedback. If you ride them really hard, they are there. 

Nothing wrong, it is what to expect from these types of tyres! 

 

The initial handlebar already bent after a drop, so tossed them for ProTaper.

In the drop, the throttle assembly got damaged too and broke the plastic inner tap that hold the throttle cam.

So tossed them for a proper Domino steel kit, with replaceable cams. Wonderful! After you have your ECU setup, the throttle is still smooth with even the most aggressive cam.

 

@Aleksandar13was very pleased with his Quickshifter, so I had to try. I mounted it differently, and didn't see many people doing it this way from what I searched. For me, I had zero flaws or misshifts up to now (2500 km).

 

HC Corse high exhaust. For the sole reason that in the same drop, the exhaust got damaged and bent the hanger a bit of course. Such a waste for the Akrapovic. I had a protector so no damage there, but tossed it to keep it new and fresh. 

 

I had the ECU flashed by 2WDW and after using it that way for about 1500km, I had to conclude it's not a fit for me. The jerk in their flash is definitely gone, but for me it's to far gone. Imagine twisting the trottle in a turn and in the first part of the roll, there is absolutely nothing. No jerk, but also at the same time that sense of...'is it stalling'? 

*This is superpersonal and just an opinion! They make great flashes, and probably this is just my bike needing a custom tune. It ran a bit too fat in general* 

 

I have the Woolich software now and made a custom tune. No jerk, torque down low and a great pull all the way to the top. 

At cruise, nicely lean and fuel economy is not affected. 

 

Different maps available, for higher or lower octanes if needed. 

Note, took me a time to find the sweet spot here, the jerk is hard to get rid off (and to be honest I have far less experience on twins than on singles). 

 

Hope this helps anyone, shoot me a message for info as I owe the community big time, so happy to share anything!