Headlights Low Beam and High Beam, not working after Denali (datadim) attempt at install.

[tom_k]

New to forum, so apologies if this has been addressed( I searched and could not find.)

I attempted to use the relay method(https://www.tenere700.net/topic/2139-anybody-successfully-fitted-denali-datadim-20/?tab=comments#comment-23701 )

 

to install the denali D2 lights with datadim harness.

It did not work , Im sure I did something wrong, no biggie. 

Now Both my low and high beams don't work when bike is started.
When Bike is in switched on position my low beams work.

What I have done to troubleshoot:
1:) Disconnected the install of aux lights
2.) Check fuses (none were tripped)
3.) disconnected battery for 10 min (does this reset can-bus fault codes?)


Still Low beam works on key on position, but once bike ignition is on neither High/low work.

Please help!!!

Tom
 

[PorkHunt]

On 10/22/2021 at 7:45 AM, tom_k said:

Ecu fixed it. 

 

Wish i had read this post before wiring my driving lights. i have exactly the same problem as Tom after following  sebti instructions on this thread

Now it looks like i need a new ECU. so my question is do i buy a new ecu only or do i need to buy the headlight assembly as well?

Cheers

Darren

[tom_k]

On 11/3/2021 at 11:45 PM, PorkHunt said:

 

Wish i had read this post before wiring my driving lights. i have exactly the same problem as Tom after following  sebti instructions on this thread

Now it looks like i need a new ECU. so my question is do i buy a new ecu only or do i need to buy the headlight assembly as well?

Cheers

Darren

I did both, but sent headlight back as ecu was the problem. Just buy the ecu!

[Peter-M]

Tom,

 

Did you change how you have the lights wired?

 

Cheers

 

Peter

[tom_k]

18 minutes ago, Peter-M said:

Tom,

 

Did you change how you have the lights wired?

 

Cheers

 

Peter

 

I have denali lights wired without using the data dimmer. I use a trigger wire from the 12v aux . 
 

Im not using a rocker switch either although you can. 

[tom_k]

2 hours ago, DuncMan said:

Update from me:

 

Yamaha EU have refused to commit to a firm diagnosis. As such I’ve managed to find a complete set from a breaker bike in Holland: ECU, ignition, immobiliser, tank lock, keys etc.. Will me installed Wednesday so hopefully this problem will finally go away. An ECU alone in the UK currently costs £1050 GBP.

you wont need the keys as the IMMObilizer is in the key cylinder, or at least i didnt need no keys or ignition, just plugged in the new ecu and it was fixed.


1050 GBP is like 1300 USD thats ridiculous!

Edited December 3, 2021 by tom_k

[williestreet]

1 hour ago, tom_k said:

you wont need the keys as the IMMObilizer is in the key cylinder, or at least i didnt need no keys or ignition, just plugged in the new ecu and it was fixed.


1050 GBP is like 1300 USD thats ridiculous!

Euro bikes come with the red key.  Unfortunately everything must be changed at the same time.

 

North american bikes do not have the red key immobilizer system like the euro.  This is why you were able to just swap the ECU.

The Canadian Super tenere's were setup the same.  I was happy when we had no red key on our T7's.

 

 

 

[PorkHunt]

I plugged my new ECU and bike wouldn't start until I used the red key to teach the new ECU the existing immobiliser system then it started right up. Fixed the headlight problem.

I think I know what I did wrong in the first place. If I just wired it up like the diagram posted I wouldn't have had any problems but I double checked the yellow wire using a multimeter which essentially shorted the ecu to ground because it's a canbus type system.

Expensive mistake

[PorkHunt]

Thats correct Duncman. Just used the red key to start it and then the other keys worked again

 

28 minutes ago, DuncMan said:

So the ECU didn’t need to be set using a Yamaha computer tool, just insert your original red key and done?

 

[DonaNobisPacem]

@tom_k Did you ever figure out what went awry with your install? Did you manage to make them work with the new ECU? I was considering Denali S4s with the DataDim Controller as a strong candidate in my search for aux lights, but the thought of frying my ECU makes me reluctant of installing any.

Edited December 9, 2021 by DonaNobisPacem

[tom_k]

Tapping into the high low beam, wires for data dim, i also used instructions to add a relay and posted a link to the thread where i made that fatal flaw .
 

I would bot use data dim, I believe the voltage us not enough on yamaha  to trigger the switch.  Use regular relay and three phase rocker switch.

 

DO NOT TAP FACTORY HEADLAMP WIRES!
 

 

 

[DonaNobisPacem]

That's unfortunate. Ideally I would have loved for a switchless setup, but since my country's laws specify that auxiliary lights have to have a separate switch, I really wanted something that's only ON/OFF while controlling the brightness with the high beam switch. Seeing as how not everybody who's tried the relay switch mod burnt out their ECUs, I have to wonder if there's a just factor of luck involved or if there's something really specific in the installation process that would result in a fried ECU.

[tom_k]

34 minutes ago, DonaNobisPacem said:

That's unfortunate. Ideally I would have loved for a switchless setup, but since my country's laws specify that auxiliary lights have to have a separate switch, I really wanted something that's only ON/OFF while controlling the brightness with the high beam switch. Seeing as how not everybody who's tried the relay switch mod burnt out their ECUs, I have to wonder if there's a just factor of luck involved or if there's something really specific in the installation process that would result in a fried ECU.

I think adding the extra 30amp relay with power overloaded it, but not sure the other people on this thread made the exact same mistake. I’ve talked directly with Denali as well. They recommend the three phase switch.

 

But do what you want. Just putting the warning put there. 

[Hibobb]

1 hour ago, DuncMan said:

bloody palaver! 

Had to look that one up... we don't use that phrase too often here in Central Wisconsin, USA.

I will have to try that one on the wife when she starts going on and on about what we are going to do for the upcoming holidays.

[Pilomajajo]

On 12/9/2021 at 2:47 PM, DuncMan said:

 

For me the problem was that the high beam is only using a 0.9v of power to the ECU. When I added in a switch it effectively put 12v down that wire, it would seem, which the ECU didn't like.

To add: my bike is now fixed. Because I couldn't get hold of a new ECU I had to purchase a used one from a crashed bike in Holland. That ECU could not be reprogrammed to my bike and that resulted in a complete change of immobiliser, ignition, locks etc.. and 3 new keys. Fortunately I bought the whole kit thinking that would be the case so now everything is changed and the bike is all good again but what a bloody palaver! 

What also annoys me is Yamaha have superseded the original ECU with a new one with an updated part number but cannot supply it as they don't have the chips required to produce any at this time. The original ECU can still be purchased in Europe but NOT in the UK. The updated ECU now costs £1050.00 here in the UK! The original ECU can be purchased in the EU for £368.00 at today's exchange rate, meaning Yamaha have tripled the price. Ridiculous! A simple mistake has just cost me 2 months of waiting, countless hours of research and nearly £1200 in parts and labour. Yamaha EU have still not committed to a diagnosis of what's wrong with the bike after 8 weeks. I had to make the decision by myself to change the ECU based on the information I received on this forum. That's disappointing. I would have expected better from Yamaha. Hey ho, lesson learned.. the hard way!

What horror!

I was planning to simply disassemble my Pia aux leds from my v-strom and install them on the Tenere. Better let my dealer take care of that.

Or would using something like the Healtech Thunderbox prevent all this?.

I'm an absolute beginner on bike electronics.

 

[NeilW]

On 1/20/2022 at 12:00 PM, Pilomajajo said:

What horror!

I was planning to simply disassemble my Pia aux leds from my v-strom and install them on the Tenere. Better let my dealer take care of that.

Or would using something like the Healtech Thunderbox prevent all this?.

I'm an absolute beginner on bike electronics.

 

THIS has to be highlighted, for all beginners on electronics buy a Thunderbox. You bypass any scary stuff and let the smart people figure how when to power your auxiliary electrnics.  I have one on the way - simply, it listens to your battery and when it senses "start" it waits a few seconds and powers your lights, heated jacket, air horns or what ever extra you have mounted. completely bypassing any possible ECU short, Canbus issue or simple " can't figure it out.  I will be doing a review on it when it arrives.

[Ray Ride4life]

@Everything Tene has a video on his YouTube channel where he installs a lightbar.
That video is in my watch later list and when i have my new crashbar i will use that as a guide for installing my lightbar.

 

[Ray Ride4life]

What's wrong with the way Everything Tenere did? His ECU is not fried and the light work.
I will watch your opted video as well, nothing wrong with looking at different ways. I often combine different advices into a new solution just as i do my job using things i learned over the years at the jobs i did before.
If you never try something new you'll never find something better.

[Everything Tene]

I think the biggest risk is when people think it’s like any other light install. 
so they do not “think” about the reversed polarity of the trigger signals. 
 

normally it would be a + signal, but on T7 ECU etc it’s negative/grounding being enabled. 
but off course you could get interference and other crap from your added headlight, that possibly could spike your relay and push a signal in to the ECU. 
that’s why @MVDBR added a diod between the prongs on the relay to suck up any current. 
 

iwe used my added leds at least 40 on and offs and powered on for maybe a 1 h of use. No issues. 
but then again, using a standalone power switch is always the safest way to go. 
 

marcus

[dnrobertson]

I had the same problem and a new ECU is on the way from Yamaha.  The killing of the lights in the ECU appears to have no affect on the rest of the electrical system or engine.  After doing the below re-wire, I have tested the bike to 150 km/h with no issues.

 

For anybody reading this and looking for a quick and dirty hard wire so they can ride the bike (I zapped the ECU before leaving on a 3 week, 5000 km ride) you can get the low beam working when ever the key is on.

 

What I did first was to remove all the pins from the  wiring plug on the headlight side. This results in you having the following coloured wires:  Yellow, Yellow/Black, Brown/White and Blue/Black.

 

I then ran the wires down to the 3 pin accessory plug on the same side as the headlight plug.  I was lucky as I had ordered plenty of the wiring male/female pins so could make a small wiring harness.

 

Run them the following way (Read all of this before doing any crimping of wires).

 

Yellow/Black goes to the negative of the 3 pin plug

Brown/White goes to a positive of the 3 ping plug.

 

At this point, the Running light will illuminate, with power applied.

 

As noted in mulitple threads, these lights a negative switched.

 

To get the low beam on:

 

Run the blue/black wire to the NEGATIVE of the 3 ping plug and when you apply power you will have the DRL and the low beam on.

 

If you connect the yellow wire to a negative or ground, the high beam will illuminate.

 

To summarise a different way:

 

The negative of the 3 pin plug will have 2 wires going to Yellow/Black and Blue/Black of the headlight socket.

 

The positive of the 3 pin plug will have a single wire going to the Brown/White of the headlight socket.

 

 Go ride.

 

I hope this helps somebody.

 

 

Edited May 6, 2022 by dnrobertson

[NeilW]

You don't have to BE CARFUL or worry about how to do it right and not blow up your ECU if you buy this kit from Cyclops. It is plug and play. This kit is less expensive than a new ECU in most countries.  I did a review  also. See below.

Yamaha T700 Auxiliary light kit -CIL-T7

 

My review

 

Cyclops Auxiliary Light Kit Review [Yamaha Ténéré 700 Project Bike]

---

Cyclops Auxiliary Light Kit Review: Installing the Washington-based company's two-inch Aurora LEDs was easy, and the result was illuminating.

 

 

[dnrobertson]

4 hours ago, NeilW said:

You don't have to BE CARFUL or worry about how to do it right and not blow up your ECU if you buy this kit from Cyclops. It is plug and play. This kit is less expensive than a new ECU in most countries.  I did a review  also. See below.

Yamaha T700 Auxiliary light kit -CIL-T7

 

My review

 

Cyclops Auxiliary Light Kit Review [Yamaha Ténéré 700 Project Bike]

---

Cyclops Auxiliary Light Kit Review: Installing the Washington-based company's two-inch Aurora LEDs was easy, and the result was illuminating.

 

 

Good Point, but some of us like doing things ourselves and learning things.  Yes, it can be expensive, but overall I would say I am miles in front DIY as opposed to buying retail every time I wanted to do something to the T7 (or my cars and other bikes).

 

All up to ship to Australia the kit cost would be USD $434 (Yikes, $108 USD for shipping!!!).  This is $613 Australian.  The new ECU cost me $650.  So for me it was a wash.  And you still have to tap into the Yellow wire that causes the issues in the first place.

 

Also, I was doing a boat load of other wiring at the same time and had the tank and headlights unplugged (and yes I learnt, for some reason the headlights won't work without the tank plugged in!)

 

When I re-wire it, my total cost for a relay, switch and some wire will be about $10.  No dimmer, I'm dim enough

 

I'm just happy to have a bike that is being very actively supported by the after market so everybody can make the bike into what they want.

 

 

 

 

[rawman]

On 5/6/2022 at 1:44 PM, dnrobertson said:

I had the same problem and a new ECU is on the way from Yamaha.  The killing of the lights in the ECU appears to have no affect on the rest of the electrical system or engine.  After doing the below re-wire, I have tested the bike to 150 km/h with no issues.

 

For anybody reading this and looking for a quick and dirty hard wire so they can ride the bike (I zapped the ECU before leaving on a 3 week, 5000 km ride) you can get the low beam working when ever the key is on.

 

What I did first was to remove all the pins from the  wiring plug on the headlight side. This results in you having the following coloured wires:  Yellow, Yellow/Black, Brown/White and Blue/Black.

 

I then ran the wires down to the 3 pin accessory plug on the same side as the headlight plug.  I was lucky as I had ordered plenty of the wiring male/female pins so could make a small wiring harness.

 

Run them the following way (Read all of this before doing any crimping of wires).

 

Yellow/Black goes to the negative of the 3 pin plug

Brown/White goes to a positive of the 3 ping plug.

 

At this point, the Running light will illuminate, with power applied.

 

As noted in mulitple threads, these lights a negative switched.

 

To get the low beam on:

 

Run the blue/black wire to the NEGATIVE of the 3 ping plug and when you apply power you will have the DRL and the low beam on.

 

If you connect the yellow wire to a negative or ground, the high beam will illuminate.

 

To summarise a different way:

 

The negative of the 3 pin plug will have 2 wires going to Yellow/Black and Blue/Black of the headlight socket.

 

The positive of the 3 pin plug will have a single wire going to the Brown/White of the headlight socket.

 

 Go ride.

 

I hope this helps somebody.

 

 

Hi 

Sadly made the same mistake----next time I'll-leave it alone... or at least should have read or researched the forum - did you get the ECU replaced ? Thanks for the work around I wonder if this can be permanent and connected to the handle bar switch.. ..? Might have to get an auto technician if can't afford the Yam ECU ........doh

[dnrobertson]

On 7/11/2022 at 5:03 AM, rawman said:

Hi 

Sadly made the same mistake----next time I'll-leave it alone... or at least should have read or researched the forum - did you get the ECU replaced ? Thanks for the work around I wonder if this can be permanent and connected to the handle bar switch.. ..? Might have to get an auto technician if can't afford the Yam ECU ........doh

 

I did over 4000 kms with the wiring as describd in my post.

 

If I hadn't already ordered the ECU, I probably would have figured out the high beam as well.  The only isue I would see would be the high beam on the intrument panel.

 

[T860]

On 12/4/2021 at 2:05 PM, PorkHunt said:

Thats correct Duncman. Just used the red key to start it and then the other keys worked again

 

 

I bought a second hand ecu (matching ECU part number) and this didn't work