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Rigid Industries SR6 LED Light Bar


DuncMan
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Was about to purchase a Laser Lamps bar when I came across a sale on the Rigid SR6 at the UK distributor. Normally £200 a piece, they had one left for £119 which I couldn't pass up. It's the spot version. Just wondered if anyone else had one of these mounted? I'm debating as to whether to mount it under the front of the Adventure Spec crash bar cage or between the forks.

 

rigid.jpg.a23b1452be10c6771aa4e165d6fa8435.jpg

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Surprised none of the US folks are using one of these. Thought they’d be popular being US made. Mine hit a shipping delay and will hopefully arrive today. Got most of the wiring prepped.

Edited by DuncMan
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This one did arrive this morning so will post some pics this evening after I’ve installed it. Am going to wire into the high beam.

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53 minutes ago, DuncMan said:

OK, pics as promised. Thanks to some write-ups and YouTube vids this powered up first time!! Result!

 

LB-1.thumb.jpg.655e377c4d44f947204eac7e63041eb2.jpg

 

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I would check that light bar won't hit your fender at full compression. 

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Good job on the mounting and A+ on the wiring!

I have an older model of this light on my Super Ténéré, mounted in a similar location. I used a Skene Controller and a Trail Tech 3-way switch to give me brightness modes. The controller allows for 10%, 20%, 50% and 100%. The 3-way switch gives me the first 3 choices while on low-beam. I typically run it at 10% as an auxilliary running light. Switching to high-beam turns on the Rigid light at 100%.

 

While the light is very bright, the pattern is basically cone-shaped, definitely not road legal. I find the spread too broad for my liking but occasionally travel some lonely roads at night and am glad to have it.

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Based on this photo

 

 

I would seriously think about double checking the clearance between the light and your front wheel at full fork compression before you take the bike out for any kind of serious ride. You could not only break your front fender, but also bind up the front wheel and do a killer endo if you hit hard enough. 

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3 hours ago, Liquidape said:

Based on this photo

 

 

I would seriously think about double checking the clearance between the light and your front wheel at full fork compression before you take the bike out for any kind of serious ride. You could not only break your front fender, but also bind up the front wheel and do a killer endo if you hit hard enough. 


Yep, cheers mate. This bike has been bought for some adventures with my 13 y/o son around the island and down into Europe  and will rarely see any serious Offroad action. If I do get into any rough stuff I’ve left enough play in the wire to just flip the light above the crash bar. 

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6 hours ago, Landshark said:

That's a bang up job you did there @DuncMan.  Looks like a diamond ring on your new lady.  Bright too.  Good job.


Cheers mate!!

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3 hours ago, Boondocker said:

Good job on the mounting and A+ on the wiring!

I have an older model of this light on my Super Ténéré, mounted in a similar location. I used a Skene Controller and a Trail Tech 3-way switch to give me brightness modes. The controller allows for 10%, 20%, 50% and 100%. The 3-way switch gives me the first 3 choices while on low-beam. I typically run it at 10% as an auxilliary running light. Switching to high-beam turns on the Rigid light at 100%.

 

While the light is very bright, the pattern is basically cone-shaped, definitely not road legal. I find the spread too broad for my liking but occasionally travel some lonely roads at night and am glad to have it.


Have you got the spot version too?

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7 hours ago, Liquidape said:

Based on this phot0

I would seriously think about double checking the clearance between the light and your front wheel at full fork compression before you take the bike out for any kind of serious ride. You could not only break your front fender, but also bind up the front wheel and do a killer endo if you hit hard enough. 

 

Just done some measuring and there's 7 inches of clearance to the fender. Max travel on stock forks is 8.3 inches so if it bottomed out it would definitely hit the light. To be safe I'll move the bracket so the light sits higher in line with the crash bar. Good tip mate and thanks for pointing that out. Just takes one good road pothole somewhere in Italy.. 🤪

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Hmm.. tried to wire in the switch today and must have done something wrong. Now the low beam works before engine start and then nothing works after the engine has started. Checking all the fuses, they seem fine. Any ideas? Is it possible I killed the relay?

Edited by DuncMan
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You are the second person recently who tried to wire these using the high beam as a trigger..

 

I hope you and the other fellow  get it sorted, but unfortunately I would guess you fried the same part as he did.  Hope you don't need an ECU or a complete headlight assembly., but it looks like his is headed that way. 

 

I would forget the trigger and get the wiring back to stock with the light powered directly from the battery.  Manual switch/no trigger and maybe something can be made to work.  Unfortunately I think the damage is done though and a huge bill is in your future.  

 

Good luck, hope you get it sorted.

 

 

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7 minutes ago, williestreet said:

You are the second person recently who tried to wire these using the high beam as a trigger..

 

I hope you and the other fellow  get it sorted, but unfortunately I would guess you fried the same part as he did.  Hope you don't need an ECU or a complete headlight assembly., but it looks like his is headed that way. 

 

I would forget the trigger and get the wiring back to stock with the light powered directly from the battery.  Manual switch/no trigger and maybe something can be made to work.  Unfortunately I think the damage is done though and a huge bill is in your future.  

 

Good luck, hope you get it sorted.

 

 


Yep, wouldn’t surprise me. That said, the set up all worked beautifully. It was my attempt to add a switch that caused the problem. It’s booked to go in to the dealer on Wednesday so we’ll find out, I guess.

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My first thought is to suggest looking around for a wrecked/totaled bike and maybe you can find an ECU or headlight assembly for a better price, but you are in th UK and I assume your bike comes with the mobilizer/red key correct? 

 

If it does I think ECU replacement requires all parts of the system must be changed at the same time.  ECU/ignition assembly etc etc.

 

We seem to hear of a few guys who had their bikes totalled for the bent muffler hanger/ frame bent issue.  I would be trying to find these bikes as they would be the best place to source the complete system or headlight for a more fair price if it ends up being needed.

 

 

Edited by williestreet
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4 minutes ago, williestreet said:

My first thought is to suggest looking around for a wrecked/totaled bike and maybe you can find an ECU for a better price, but you are in th UK and I assume your bike comes with the mobilizer/red key correct? 

 

If it does I think ECU replacement requires all parts of the system must be changed at the same time.  ECU/ignition assembly etc etc.

 

We seem to hear of a few guys who had their bikes totalled for the bend muffler hanger/ frame bent issue.  I would be trying to find these bikes as they would be the best place to source the complete system for a more fair price if it ends up being needed.

 

 

 

My feeling is I may need a new headlight. I'll let the dealer take a look as it's impossible to say until then. He thought it could be a blown resistor.

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3 hours ago, DuncMan said:

Well, replaced the relay this morning and that wasn't the problem. Im now stumped. 

 

I know nothing about the trouble at hand but I am wondering...  If you  were to set everything back to were you started, would that get things going?  I'd at least start with that.  I have this feeling that when you wired it into the high beam circuit and turned it on while the bike was running, you burnt something along the line.  Once you reassemble the system to factory, you may then proceed with trouble shooting.  

The moment you take it to a dealer, it won't be cheap no matter what the problem turns out to be.  You can buy a lot of tools for that kinda money.  And I'll be so proud of you if you figure this out!😁

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1 hour ago, Landshark said:

 

I know nothing about the trouble at hand but I am wondering...  If you  were to set everything back to were you started, would that get things going?  I'd at least start with that.  I have this feeling that when you wired it into the high beam circuit and turned it on while the bike was running, you burnt something along the line.  Once you reassemble the system to factory, you may then proceed with trouble shooting.  

The moment you take it to a dealer, it won't be cheap no matter what the problem turns out to be.  You can buy a lot of tools for that kinda money.  And I'll be so proud of you if you figure this out!😁


No the wiring of the light was perfect and everything worked. It was the attempted insertion of the switch that caused the problem.

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3 hours ago, Landshark said:

 

I know nothing about the trouble at hand but I am wondering...  If you  were to set everything back to were you started, would that get things going?  I'd at least start with that.  I have this feeling that when you wired it into the high beam circuit and turned it on while the bike was running, you burnt something along the line.  Once you reassemble the system to factory, you may then proceed with trouble shooting.  

The moment you take it to a dealer, it won't be cheap no matter what the problem turns out to be.  You can buy a lot of tools for that kinda money.  And I'll be so proud of you if you figure this out!😁

 

I'd be proud of me too! 😁 Unfortunately, I'm at the limit of what I'm capable of here. I'm not great at understanding electrics but I can follow guides and this is what I did here and it worked a treat. I should have taken it to someone to get help with the switch, tho as I had no guide for that and was guessing. That said, no-one has had this problem and yet got it fixed so we've no idea what's blown. It would be slightly poor design from Yamaha, tho, if the £500 headlight was not protected from such a thing occurring. I was sure if I did something wrong a fuse would blow as opposed to the headlight. Hey ho, we'll find out next week. Wasn't planning any night driving any time soon, so... 

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5 hours ago, DuncMan said:

 

I'd be proud of me too! 😁 Unfortunately, I'm at the limit of what I'm capable of here. I'm not great at understanding electrics but I can follow guides and this is what I did here and it worked a treat. I should have taken it to someone to get help with the switch, tho as I had no guide for that and was guessing. That said, no-one has had this problem and yet got it fixed so we've no idea what's blown. It would be slightly poor design from Yamaha, tho, if the £500 headlight was not protected from such a thing occurring. I was sure if I did something wrong a fuse would blow as opposed to the headlight. Hey ho, we'll find out next week. Wasn't planning any night driving any time soon, so... 

 

OK.  We wait and see what it is.  It's probably something simple.

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8 hours ago, Landshark said:

 

OK.  We wait and see what it is.  It's probably something simple.


That would be nice!! 😎

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