Swap 12V Socket to USB Charging Unit DIY

[Old man]

Hi yes you can just plug in a usb cigarette charger that’s what I do as for a mini compressor you will blow the fuse as I think it’s only 2amp   If you are not confident with electrics best thing to do is use the compressor directly to the battery with crocodile clips only my opinion and nothing to mess up by taking the easy way but also  nice to learn stuff. Enjoy  

[A A Ron]

3 hours ago, JayD said:

I am terrible with electronics, so please be kind.
 

Couldnt you just put in a usb charger (cigarette type) and plug usb into that for charging? Or an electrical pump to inflate? Thanks.

That is what I do for USB charging.  Seems to work fine with a 2.4A/5V quick charger.  The "auxiliary DC jack" is on a 2A fuse.  Not sure if it would work with electric pump or not.

Edited December 5, 2020 by A A Ron

[Noel McCutcheon]

17 hours ago, JayD said:

I am terrible with electronics, so please be kind.
 

Couldnt you just put in a usb charger (cigarette type) and plug usb into that for charging? Or an electrical pump to inflate? Thanks.

A stick-out plug-in type Cigarette Lighter-USB like you suggest can move, wriggle up, disconnect and even bounce out while riding along on the rough stuff.
 

The original Cigarette Lighter Socket 2A is no good for good electrical compressors etc. 
 

So I did a dual change over so I now have a completely different Cigarette Lighter Socket on the other righthand spare side that is wired straight back to the battery (with sufficiently heavy wire and a 10 amp inline fuse). This is therefore permanently live (even with the ignition switch off) which means I can plug in battery charger into it and as it is 10 amp I can also run an electric compressor for full tyre re-inflation.

 

I put the integrated USB in in place off the original Cigarette Lighter Socket on the left as these Integrated USB units doesn’t bounce up or out or disconnect electrically from what you are charging while riding rough stuff. 
 

I hope that this helps 

[JayD]

23 minutes ago, X Plane said:

A stick-out plug-in type Cigarette Lighter-USB like you suggest can move, wriggle up, disconnect and even bounce out while riding along on the rough stuff.
 

The original Cigarette Lighter Socket 2A is no good for good electrical compressors etc. 
 

So I did a dual change over so I now have a completely different Cigarette Lighter Socket on the other righthand spare side that is wired straight back to the battery (with sufficiently heavy wire and a 10 amp inline fuse). This is therefore permanently live (even with the ignition switch off) which means I can plug in battery charger into it and as it is 10 amp I can also run an electric compressor for full tyre re-inflation.

 

I put the integrated USB in in place off the original Cigarette Lighter Socket on the left as these Integrated USB units doesn’t bounce up or out or disconnect electrically from what you are charging while riding rough stuff. 
 

I hope that this helps 

Thank you very much, that was a lot of help.

So basically, the plug in usb charger can bounce out. A compressor requires too much power which can/will blow the fuse or the wiring.

Thanks!

[Noel McCutcheon]

1 hour ago, JayD said:

Thank you very much, that was a lot of help.

So basically, the plug in usb charger can bounce out. A compressor requires too much power which can/will blow the fuse or the wiring.

Thanks!

Yes and Yep.

Compressor use will blow the 2 Amp fuse etc.

 

The compressor run time necessary heats up light wiring if simply trying to stick in a bigger > 2A fuse.

 

A compressor can draw around 6 amp loads up to 8 amp for fast ones.

 

@JayD you are welcome.

[Marklar]

On 11/8/2019 at 1:45 PM, X Plane said:

How I fitted a dual USB Charger port unit in place of the original 12 volt power socket myself.

1.) Buy / obtain a waterproof USB unit,

Such as  below:

2.) Take the windshield screen, side screens and the left hand side (LHS) panel off; 

3.) remove both dash screws and tug the dash sharply up (note lugs for replacing later) and lift it up away to get access to take the 4 headlight holding screws out; 

4.) remove the whole headlight unit out; 

5.) unplug the white connector of the 12 v socket in the LHS fibreglass composite panel; 

6.) unscrew the 12v socket unit from the cockpit;

7.) fit in the USB unit in to the place of the old removed 12 v socket;

8.) (Wiring Up) I cut the cable lead off the old 12 volt socket right up tight close to the old socket body and used/reused this cable’s wires for connecting on to the female spade connectors for pushing on to the male spade terminals (see photo above) on the bottom of the USB unit;

9.) push spaded wires onto the USB and poke the cable out the side for re-plugging  back in to the bikes LHS white power connector.

10.) refit the headlight, reassemble bodywork and that is it for this mod. 

11.) Switch ignition on and your are ready to plugIn a USB device (phone etc for charging) and play 

12.) Optional job: 

 

When I was in there I also put in a new different 12 volt power socket (which was an MT-09 accessory part that i had) along with it’s own long (in-line 10 amp) fused lead over at the spare Socket location hole on the right hand side RHS of the dash cockpit. 

I wired up this new 12 volt socket straight all the way directly back to the battery terminals.

So I still have a 12 volt power up at cockpit; which works without having the ignition on. 

I can also plug in a battery charger to it also if want or need to.

 

Note: that the bikes battery cannot be charged up though the stock original (ignition switched) 12 volt socket.

I hope that this is useful.
 

Sorry if this was explained already, just trying to understand - I get why you replaced the stock cig. port with a new 12 volt power socket wired directly to the battery. What I'm not getting is why you moved it to the empty spot on the throttle side instead of just replacing the cig. port with the new power socket in the original location and putting the USB charger in the empty spot? Getting ready to install a USB charger unit myself and wondering if there's a reason I'm not thinking of for swapping things around.

 

Also, I haven't seen this mentioned/asked elsewhere, and that's probably because it's such a basic question most people just know the answer, but I don't because I'm electrically illiterate. Does a cell phone ever exceed the 2 amp fused capacity of this connection? I'm assuming not, but some of the dual USB chargers with volt meters show 2.1 amps, so it has me wondering.

[TimmyTheHog]

4 hours ago, Marklar said:

Sorry if this was explained already, just trying to understand - I get why you replaced the stock cig. port with a new 12 volt power socket wired directly to the battery. What I'm not getting is why you moved it to the empty spot on the throttle side instead of just replacing the cig. port with the new power socket in the original location and putting the USB charger in the empty spot? Getting ready to install a USB charger unit myself and wondering if there's a reason I'm not thinking of for swapping things around.

 

Also, I haven't seen this mentioned/asked elsewhere, and that's probably because it's such a basic question most people just know the answer, but I don't because I'm electrically illiterate. Does a cell phone ever exceed the 2 amp fused capacity of this connection? I'm assuming not, but some of the dual USB chargers with volt meters show 2.1 amps, so it has me wondering.

Can't commend on the plug location part

 

For the phone power usage, average smart phone will intake 1amp.hour to charge.

But depends on your device's design, it can sometimes intake more up to 2amp providing your USB socket can provide the power.

So even if the USB socket is able to put out 2.1 amp by design, if your phone can't handle the charge, it will be capped at whatever it is able to take in...normally 1.5 max.

[HoboHighlander]

@Marklarif you watch the above video it appears that you cannot just unhook the cigarette outlet, you have to snip the wires. My guess is that if @X Planewas going through the trouble to re-wire it they figured they might as well move it to the location where they wanted it and do the whole battery hook-in thing.

 

My question is what do I need to preserve the old 12 volt cigarette outlet AND add a USB outlet. My understanding is that there is a connection under the right fairing. X Plane linked a 2 pin connector above but its no longer good. Anyone know where I could buy such a connector locally? Like Radioshack or something? (In the US)

Edited December 11, 2020 by HoboHighlander
clarified my question

[Marklar]

16 hours ago, TimmyTheHog said:

Can't commend on the plug location part

 

For the phone power usage, average smart phone will intake 1amp.hour to charge.

But depends on your device's design, it can sometimes intake more up to 2amp providing your USB socket can provide the power.

So even if the USB socket is able to put out 2.1 amp by design, if your phone can't handle the charge, it will be capped at whatever it is able to take in...normally 1.5 max.

Thanks man, that's very helpful. I'll be using older, "retired" devices on the bike so I'm guessing those'll draw at the lower amperage. 

 

Here's a new question I'm wondering about - if the two amp fuse on this accessory line were to be a concern, is there any reason you couldn't just pull it and put in a larger one, say maybe a five amp, just for more wiggle room?

[Marklar]

15 hours ago, HoboHighlander said:

@Marklarif you watch the above video it appears that you cannot just unhook the cigarette outlet, you have to snip the wires. My guess is that if @X Planewas going through the trouble to re-wire it they figured they might as well move it to the location where they wanted it and do the whole battery hook-in thing.

 

My question is what do I need to preserve the old 12 volt cigarette outlet AND add a USB outlet. My understanding is that there is a connection under the right fairing. X Plane linked a 2 pin connector above but its no longer good. Anyone know where I could buy such a connector locally? Like Radioshack or something? (In the US)

Thanks, I reckon that's as good an explanation as any for X Plane's approach.

 

Regarding your questions, this is what I'm doing right now myself. There is a connection under the right fairing, took mine apart yesterday to install heated grips and found the female plug taped up ready and waiting for a connection (along with the three prong Sumitomo plug I used for the grips). I'll be doing the charger today. Here's the unit I'm installing:

 

https://www.amazon.com/Charge-Charger-Aluminum-Voltmeter-Motorcycle/dp/B08F37WPDN/ref=sr_1_16?dchild=1&keywords=gemcoo&qid=1607700710&sr=8-16

 

I think you'll be hard pressed to find those plugs locally. I looked all over online, and only found them on eBay in the UK (and those folks wouldn't ship to the states) or from China. Here are the plugs I bought from Aliexpress - they are a perfect match for the stock connectors (just tested/inspected/confirmed):

 

10 Set 2 Pin Electronic Female Male Automotive Connector Auto Household Connector Crimp Terminal Connector|connector amp|connector 5-pinconnector pcb - AliExpress

---

Smarter Shopping, Better Living! Aliexpress.com

 

You 'll need a crimper like this if you don't have one (I picked up the weatherpack version so I could also do sealed connections, but for this specific style plug, the open barrel crimper will work):

 

https://www.amazon.com/Qibaok-Waterproof-Connectors-Terminals-Metri-Pack/dp/B081381N72/ref=sr_1_34?dchild=1&keywords=Qibaok&qid=1607701039&sr=8-34

 

Hope this helps!

Edited December 11, 2020 by Marklar

[TimmyTheHog]

8 hours ago, Marklar said:

Thanks man, that's very helpful. I'll be using older, "retired" devices on the bike so I'm guessing those'll draw at the lower amperage. 

 

Here's a new question I'm wondering about - if the two amp fuse on this accessory line were to be a concern, is there any reason you couldn't just pull it and put in a larger one, say maybe a five amp, just for more wiggle room?

@Marklar now this is slightly a loaded question.

 

In THEORY you COULD...ASSUMING the WIRES are rated for it.



According to this charge for 12V, it should be okay but do at you are own discretion as I take no responsible for anything that break if you choose to do swap it.

Basically of an electrical circuit, a FUSE is supposed to be the weakest link so in case anything is surging/overloading the circuit, the fuse will burn up and cut the power to the circuit.

 

If you UP the size of the fuse and the wires are not able to handle the additional amp flow, it would be somewhere along the line that burns up, and if it is near any sort of combustible item (gas, paper filter, etc) , you will turn into a GHOST RIDER really fast...

Edited December 11, 2020 by TimmyTheHog

[HoboHighlander]

@Marklar Thanks! This is great info. I must have been taking my panel off and having a closer look at the same time as you. A little aggrieved as that teeny flimsy plastic tab at the top side of the panel snapped off as I was refitting it but I digress...

 

That USB unit looks nicer than the one I found. Wish I had seen it first as the one I ordered is not aluminum, not 3A and didn't include the wire which would have help me get this thing installed. Can I just buy a small amount of wire like that at the hardware store? I do have the female disconnects.

 

I already have this crimper floating around my workshop. Is that going to suffice?

 

Lastly, I saw the Aliexpress link was for "10 set". Any chance I could get you to send me a couple for a few $$?

[Noel McCutcheon]

On 12/10/2020 at 5:30 PM, Marklar said:

Sorry if this was explained already, just trying to understand - I get why you replaced the stock cig. port with a new 12 volt power socket wired directly to the battery. What I'm not getting is why you moved it to the empty spot on the throttle side instead of just replacing the cig. port with the new power socket in the original location and putting the USB charger in the empty spot? Getting ready to install a USB charger unit myself and wondering if there's a reason I'm not thinking of for swapping things around.

 

Also, I haven't seen this mentioned/asked elsewhere, and that's probably because it's such a basic question most people just know the answer, but I don't because I'm electrically illiterate. Does a cell phone ever exceed the 2 amp fused capacity of this connection? I'm assuming not, but some of the dual USB chargers with volt meters show 2.1 amps, so it has me wondering.

@Marklar fitting a USB unit is quiet suited the lefthand side of the Dash due the wiring electrical supply there being:

 

a) switched on and off with the ignition switch and

 

b) as the stock wiring 12 volt supply on left there is 2 amp so then the (times 12 volts) is 24 watts supply and that is ok for the USB Units 5 Volts (times dual 2.1) 4.2 amps which is 21 watts draw and 21 watts is not excessive and fine for the 24 watt (2amp x 12 v) 2A fuse supply there.

 

MOST phones are ok with a 1 amp USB unit it is iPads etc that need or charge better from a USB 2.1A 
 

Hope that this helps.

 

PS A USB could go on the right hand side but the spare wiring there is for option heated grips etc and is 5 amp or and wasted on USB or used and then more / longer and other wiring up ways need done to use the lefthand 2amp supply wires.

 

 

[Noel McCutcheon]

On 12/11/2020 at 12:38 AM, HoboHighlander said:

@Marklarif you watch the above video it appears that you cannot just unhook the cigarette outlet, you have to snip the wires. My guess is that if @X Planewas going through the trouble to re-wire it they figured they might as well move it to the location where they wanted it and do the whole battery hook-in thing.

 

My question is what do I need to preserve the old 12 volt cigarette outlet AND add a USB outlet. My understanding is that there is a connection under the right fairing. X Plane linked a 2 pin connector above but its no longer good. Anyone know where I could buy such a connector locally? Like Radioshack or something? (In the US)

@HoboHighlander you could fit a USB on righthand side spare location and preserve old (2A) cigarette socket (see PS comment to Marklar above). 

[HoboHighlander]

@X PlaneYeah, that's what I'm planning to do but I was asking what specific hardware would I need. I know nothing about wiring so even figuring out what is the proper type of wire and where I can buy it has been a learning curve, hahaha. But as, @Marklar posted above, I think all I really need is the run of wire and that elusive OEM 2 plug connector.

[Noel McCutcheon]

11 minutes ago, HoboHighlander said:

@X PlaneYeah, that's what I'm planning to do but I was asking what specific hardware would I need. I know nothing about wiring so even figuring out what is the proper type of wire and where I can buy it has been a learning curve, hahaha. But as, @Marklar posted above, I think all I really need is the run of wire and that elusive OEM 2 plug connector.

@HoboHighlander Yeah, correct getting a connector for and using the spare supply. Or (when the headlight is out) if handy with wiring wire USB across onto (and tap into) the supply socket wires of the cigarette lighter socket... Just DON’T ever use load them Both up at the same time; hence own supply is best.

[Marklar]

On 12/12/2020 at 5:46 AM, HoboHighlander said:

@Marklar Thanks! This is great info. I must have been taking my panel off and having a closer look at the same time as you. A little aggrieved as that teeny flimsy plastic tab at the top side of the panel snapped off as I was refitting it but I digress...

 

That USB unit looks nicer than the one I found. Wish I had seen it first as the one I ordered is not aluminum, not 3A and didn't include the wire which would have help me get this thing installed. Can I just buy a small amount of wire like that at the hardware store? I do have the female disconnects.

 

I already have this crimper floating around my workshop. Is that going to suffice?

 

Lastly, I saw the Aliexpress link was for "10 set". Any chance I could get you to send me a couple for a few $$?

You certainly should be able to buy a small amount of wire at your local hardware or auto parts store.

 

That crimper can work, but for different style connectors than the ones I posted. If you want to wire your charger using the stock-style plugs I used, you'll need the crimper I posted.

 

I can send you a couple plugs, PM me with your address.

[Marklar]

6 hours ago, X Plane said:

@Marklar fitting a USB unit is quiet suited the lefthand side of the Dash due the wiring electrical supply there being:

 

a) switched on and off with the ignition switch and

 

b) as the stock wiring 12 volt supply on left there is 2 amp so then the (times 12 volts) is 24 watts supply and that is ok for the USB Units 5 Volts (times dual 2.1) 4.2 amps which is 21 watts draw and 21 watts is not excessive and fine for the 24 watt (2amp x 12 v) 2A fuse supply there.

 

MOST phones are ok with a 1 amp USB unit it is iPads etc that need or charge better from a USB 2.1A 
 

Hope that this helps.

 

PS A USB could go on the right hand side but the spare wiring there is for option heated grips etc and is 5 amp or and wasted on USB or used and then more / longer and other wiring up ways need done to use the lefthand 2amp supply wires.

 

 

Hi X Plane - Appreciate the thoughtful response and explanation on phone voltage and amperage. However, I have to take a little issue with your explanation on the left vs. right side wiring, as stated in your PS, because it's not what I found to be true on my bike (at least not on my U.S. bike...I have no idea if there are differences in this wiring on T7s sold in other markets). There is an unused, unsealed switched 2 amp power supply on the right hand side ready and waiting from the factory. I simply wired my USB charger with the plug that fits into what is already there, and it works a treat! I wired my heated grips into the existing sealed 3 prong Sumitomo plug on the same side. 

 

The pasted post below is from BMRT7 and provides an excellent explanation of the discussed wiring, and is exactly what I found "under the hood" on my bike (it is taken from the thread named "GPS, which connector"): 

 

This is incorrect.

 

There are 4 total switched connectors on this bike. (2) 3 pin connectors and (2) 2 pin connectors. On the right side there is a 2 pin and a 3 pin.

 

3 pin sealed sumitumo connectors are below. One on each side of bike. One meant for factory heated grips and one meant for factory fog lights:

 

 

BOTH of these plugs share the same fuse and it’s a 10 amp located under the seat. These are labeled accessory. 
 

Then there are two unsealed 2 pin connectors, again one on each side of bike. On the ride side there is nothing connected. On the left side, it goes to the factory cig plug.

 

 

These are also BOTH wired to the same fuse. It is only a 2 amp fuse. Located under the seat and labeled Aux.

 

Edit: All that to say, use the 2 pin connector on the right side of the bike.

Edited August 31 by BMRT7

[Noel McCutcheon]

@Marklar good to know that there is another 2pin 2 amp supply on the right. I didn’t know that. I don’t have any preference on which side anyone uses to put a USB outlet.

[HoboHighlander]

Good thing to point out @Marklar...I was going to raise the same issue so that future people wandering down this rabbit hole are aware.

 

Thanks for the thorough reference to BMRT7's info! I do wonder if the EU bikes are different than the NA? Doesn't seem like they should be...

[WarpedRotor]

On 7/2/2020 at 10:10 PM, kTwenty said:

@X Plane thank you for the guidance. Installed the one with voltmeter and also run a wireless phone charger from the same circuit. Hopefully i will not forget and won't use wireless and USB simultaneously

 

that's  how it looks like

what is the link for ordering this piece? I like the metal case ring and overall look of this one.  thanks

[HoboHighlander]

@WarpedRotor looks like the same one Marklar linked above . It does look nicer than the one I ordered 

[WarpedRotor]

29 minutes ago, HoboHighlander said:

@WarpedRotor looks like the same one Marklar linked above . It does look nicer than the one I ordered 

Totally missed the link, thank you for helping me out with this!

[Marklar]

On 12/11/2020 at 3:22 PM, TimmyTheHog said:

@Marklar now this is slightly a loaded question.

 

In THEORY you COULD...ASSUMING the WIRES are rated for it.



According to this charge for 12V, it should be okay but do at you are own discretion as I take no responsible for anything that break if you choose to do swap it.

Basically of an electrical circuit, a FUSE is supposed to be the weakest link so in case anything is surging/overloading the circuit, the fuse will burn up and cut the power to the circuit.

 

If you UP the size of the fuse and the wires are not able to handle the additional amp flow, it would be somewhere along the line that burns up, and if it is near any sort of combustible item (gas, paper filter, etc) , you will turn into a GHOST RIDER really fast...

Thanks Timmy, understood and this makes total sense to me. I will proceed with caution, and for now just leave the 2 amp fuse as is. Appreciate the guidance and the table is very helpful!

[kTwenty]

@WarpedRotor that’s my link just in case http://Quick Charge 3.0 USB Charger Socket, ADSDIA 12V/24V 36W Aluminum Waterproof Dual QC3.0 Car Charger Power Adapter Outlet with LED Display for Car Boat Marine Motorcycle Scooter RV Golf Cart DIY Kit https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B07PN5YZX3/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_fabc_Q9d2FbVT51KP2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

Edited December 15, 2020 by kTwenty