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Valve adjustment


WingVetteStrom

Question

Do I have this right?   Adjusting the valves requires engine removal?

Strongly considering getting on a list for a T700, but this really caught my attention.

Please tell me I'm wrong.

 

Thanks

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Latin America Adventure Biker and Goldwinger

Corvette Race Track Junkie.  And oh ya, Medicare recipient.

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@WingVetteStrom on page 3-7 of the service manual it lists the parts that need to be removed to do the valve clearance check. One item is "Clutch cable guide", which then notes "Refer to "ENGINE REMOVAL" on page 5-3." That just refers to removing the clutch cable guide.

Nowhere in the manual does it say you have to remove the engine to do the procedure. It starts out as almost the same procedure as getting to the spark plugs except  then you remove the cylinder head cover, timing mark accessing bolt and crankshaft end cover, and then measure valve clearance.

3-7.jpg

Edited by Uncle M
clarify
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2 hours ago, NeilW said:

Well they did replace your spark plugs and coolant.. OUCH. 

 Yes brand new coolant and spark plugs. 

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Jeez, you are looking too far down the track! Use best ( I mean best! ) quality fuel and be scrupulous with your air clean and you should have many years before a valve adjustment is due.

I had a 2003 WRF450 and racked up over 10,000km of fairly hard riding ( sweep rider for a tour company ). I checked the clearances before I sold it in 2008. I put some sealant on the rocker cover and bolted it up. Clearance were exactly to spec.

Used only 98 or 95 RON fuel and cleaned the air filter after every ride.

 

My T7 gets the same treatment. I have only 6000km on it but air filter has been changed once and cleaned after every dirt ride when I am with others.

Alcohol! No good story starts with a salad.

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4 hours ago, Rider 101 said:

Jeez, you are looking too far down the track! Use best ( I mean best! ) quality fuel and be scrupulous with your air clean and you should have many years before a valve adjustment is due.

I had a 2003 WRF450 and racked up over 10,000km of fairly hard riding ( sweep rider for a tour company ). I checked the clearances before I sold it in 2008. I put some sealant on the rocker cover and bolted it up. Clearance were exactly to spec.

Used only 98 or 95 RON fuel and cleaned the air filter after every ride.

 

My T7 gets the same treatment. I have only 6000km on it but air filter has been changed once and cleaned after every dirt ride when I am with others.

What did you do to clean the air filter.  Did you wash it?  Or do you have a different solution.  They are a little expensive to replace.

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9 hours ago, Hogan said:

You're wrong.

I saw a manual someone posted online that showed under the section for valve adjustment: "refer to page xxx" for engine removal."

Do you have a shop manual?  If so, could you verify this statement is not in the shop manual?

Thanks!

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Latin America Adventure Biker and Goldwinger

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18 minutes ago, Uncle M said:

@WingVetteStrom on page 3-7 of the service manual it lists the parts that need to be removed to do the valve clearance check. One item is "Clutch cable guide", which then notes "Refer to "ENGINE REMOVAL" on page 5-3." That just refers to removing the clutch cable guide.

Nowhere in the manual does it say you have to remove the engine to do the procedure. It starts out as almost the same procedure as getting to the spark plugs except  then you remove the cylinder head cover, timing mark accessing bolt and crankshaft end cover, and then measure valve clearance.

3-7.jpg

Thanks!!

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Latin America Adventure Biker and Goldwinger

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6 minutes ago, Hogan said:

That just means the procedure to remove the part is under a different section (ie engine removal) in the service manual

The parts you remove are denoted by points:

rider seat

air scoops

air ducts

etc

Thanks.  Unfamiliar with Yamaha manuals.  Last Yamaha I owned was a 1979 Special 750.   

 

Slightly off topic:  I'm on a list for a T700 here in WA. State, USA, but primarily worried about seat height given my 30" inseam.  I know you can lower the bike, but one of the main reasons I want a T700 vs. my VStrom is ground clearance.  A lowering kit would knock off substantial ground clearance I'd think.  Not sure how comfortable a slimmed down seat would be for really long days.

Latin America Adventure Biker and Goldwinger

Corvette Race Track Junkie.  And oh ya, Medicare recipient.

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10 hours ago, Landshark said:

What did you do to clean the air filter.  Did you wash it?  Or do you have a different solution.  They are a little expensive to replace.

The Australia model gets the Unifilter which is washable foam.

 


Unifilter Australia is the world's leading manufacturer of foam air filters for Automotive, Motorcycle, Performance and Industrial applications.

 

Funnelweb are also making a washable foam. 

 

https://www.funnelwebfilter.com.au/product-category/yamaha/tenere-700/

 

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Alcohol! No good story starts with a salad.

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To add some photos to the comments that you can do the valve check without removing the engine. I'd suggest pulling the tank, rad etc then pressure washing from a reasonable distance (with sensitive parts covered). There are so many places for dirt to collect that you simply can't when washing the bike with the tank and body panels on. You will knock dirt in while maneuvering  the valve cover off and on.

IMG_2439.JPG

IMG_2438.JPG

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Bits and pieces for your adventure bike. Camel-ADV.com

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15 hours ago, Camel ADV said:

To add some photos to the comments that you can do the valve check without removing the engine. I'd suggest pulling the tank, rad etc then pressure washing from a reasonable distance (with sensitive parts covered). There are so many places for dirt to collect that you simply can't when washing the bike with the tank and body panels on. You will knock dirt in while maneuvering  the valve cover off and on.

IMG_2439.JPG

IMG_2438.JPG

 

I've seen some of your videos and I'm sure you have dirt and mud where no one else has any.

 

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21 minutes ago, JRS700 said:

 

I've seen some of your videos and I'm sure you have dirt and mud where no one else has any.

 

He goes further than me, no doubt but i can tell you that he's not the only one.
Don't have a picture form that place but if you see this you can imagine where it al goes.
IMG_20220402_180801.jpg.15e49d76e5d7cd240c3d8f9cde3d6839.jpg

 

IMG_20220402_180753.jpg.9023ba8c52d42a2d375882ea6cd5ed55.jpg

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On 3/30/2022 at 9:16 PM, WingVetteStrom said:

Thanks.  Unfamiliar with Yamaha manuals.  Last Yamaha I owned was a 1979 Special 750.   

 

Slightly off topic:  I'm on a list for a T700 here in WA. State, USA, but primarily worried about seat height given my 30" inseam.  I know you can lower the bike, but one of the main reasons I want a T700 vs. my VStrom is ground clearance.  A lowering kit would knock off substantial ground clearance I'd think.  Not sure how comfortable a slimmed down seat would be for really long days.

 

I have a 30'' inseam and lowered my bike using -20mm lowering links c/w raising the forks 9mm up through the yolks.

Loadsa ground clearance but I guess whether it's enough for you depends on where and how you'll be riding.

I can flat foot now which for me is almost essential these days.

The T700 is up there with my most favourite bike owned.....and I've had a few!!!

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Riding faster than everyone else only guarantees you'll ride alone.....        

 

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Just to inform people that plan to do a valve adjustment on their T7 - i did mine yesterday and there is NO WAY you can pull the valve cover off without taking your RAD off and WITHOUT LOWERING/ TILTING THE ENGINE DOWN!!! the valve cover wont clear the frame otherwise no matter how much you try and is physically impossible. 
This part of the bike is engineered horribly, stupidly hard to maintain and takes a LOT of work to tilt the engine forward and down just to get the valve cover off.

Edited by Interceptor
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16 minutes ago, Interceptor said:

Just to inform people that plan to do a valve adjustment on their T7 - i did mine yesterday and there is NO WAY you can pull the valve cover off without taking your RAD off and WITHOUT LOWERING/ TILTING THE ENGINE DOWN!!! the valve cover wont clear the frame otherwise no matter how much you try and is physically impossible. 
This part of the bike is engineered horribly, stupidly hard to maintain and takes a LOT of work to tilt the engine forward and down just to get the valve cover off.

Wow, that's good to know.  I can understand removing a radiator, but unbolting an engine.  Yikes.  No fun.

My DL650 VStrom is also very difficult to get to the valves.   

Latin America Adventure Biker and Goldwinger

Corvette Race Track Junkie.  And oh ya, Medicare recipient.

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2 hours ago, WingVetteStrom said:

Wow, that's good to know.  I can understand removing a radiator, but unbolting an engine.  Yikes.  No fun.

My DL650 VStrom is also very difficult to get to the valves.   

I can surely say this bike makes a V twin bike like a Kato 990 or 1090 valve clearance job look like a walk in the park as i do these kind of work on adventure bikes regularly. 

Edited by Interceptor
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On 5/5/2022 at 3:21 PM, Interceptor said:

Just to inform people that plan to do a valve adjustment on their T7 - i did mine yesterday and there is NO WAY you can pull the valve cover off without taking your RAD off and WITHOUT LOWERING/ TILTING THE ENGINE DOWN!!! the valve cover wont clear the frame otherwise no matter how much you try and is physically impossible. 
This part of the bike is engineered horribly, stupidly hard to maintain and takes a LOT of work to tilt the engine forward and down just to get the valve cover off.

So, were any of the valve clearances out of spec and require shimming.  I have almost 20,000 miles on my T700 and plan on a valve check sometime in the next six months.

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On 5/5/2022 at 1:21 PM, Interceptor said:

Just to inform people that plan to do a valve adjustment on their T7 - i did mine yesterday and there is NO WAY you can pull the valve cover off without taking your RAD off and WITHOUT LOWERING/ TILTING THE ENGINE DOWN!!! the valve cover wont clear the frame otherwise no matter how much you try and is physically impossible. 
This part of the bike is engineered horribly, stupidly hard to maintain and takes a LOT of work to tilt the engine forward and down just to get the valve cover off.

In another thread, someone said that by removing a wire bundle from the top of the engine he was able to get the valve cover off.  Dont remember where I read it. 

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Latin America Adventure Biker and Goldwinger

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14 hours ago, whisperquiet said:

So, were any of the valve clearances out of spec and require shimming.  I have almost 20,000 miles on my T700 and plan on a valve check sometime in the next six months.


Nope, all were in spec, was a waste of time and effort but had to be sure this engines annoying ticking noise didnt originated from loose valves.
 

 

14 hours ago, WingVetteStrom said:

In another thread, someone said that by removing a wire bundle from the top of the engine he was able to get the valve cover off.  Dont remember where I read it. 


Tried that, didnt worked for me no matter what i did but can't argue if someone succeed with it.
 

 

1 hour ago, AZJW said:

No, engine removal is not necessary for a valve check, according to this video.  Skip to 5:55 for details.

 

 


Thought this is a Tenere 700 forum. This cb500 video has nothing to do with a Tenere 700 that is a whole different bike,  engine and frame.

Edited by Interceptor
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Thanks for the update on the valve clearances being in spec…….I ride my bike pretty easy and rarely has it been revved over 6000 rpm.  I may wait until 30,000 miles for the check.  I checked two previously owned Super Teneres…..both were in spec at the 26,000 mile check.  They were a PITA to check also.

Edited by whisperquiet
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21 hours ago, Interceptor said:


Nope, all were in spec, was a waste of time and effort but had to be sure this engines annoying ticking noise didnt originated from loose valves.
 

 


Tried that, didnt worked for me no matter what i did but can't argue if someone succeed with it.
 

 


Thought this is a Tenere 700 forum. This cb500 video has nothing to do with a Tenere 700 that is a whole different bike,  engine and frame.

My mistake.   Far & Further does mostly T700 how-to stuff, with that particular video titled without a model designation easily discernible,  so I missed that.  Sorry for the error, but if someone can find a detailed write up or video showing this procedure, without loosening the engine mounts, please post it.

 

"Men do not quit playing because they grow old, they grow old because they quit playing" Oliver Wendell Holmes - Mods - HDB handguards, Camel-ADV Gut guard, 1 finger clutch, The Fix pedal & Rally pipe, RR side/tail rack, RR 90nm spring & Headlight guard, Rally seat, OEM heated grips- stablemate Beta 520RS

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12 hours ago, whisperquiet said:

Thanks for the update on the valve clearances being in spec…….I ride my bike pretty easy and rarely has it been revved over 6000 rpm.  I may wait until 30,000 miles for the check.  I checked two previously owned Super Teneres…..both were in spec at the 26,000 mile check.  They were a PITA to check also.

Might want to reconsider waiting.  I'm not a T7 owner yet, still waiting for the phone call, but when I did my VStrom at 15K which is the recommended check point, two of the exhaust valves were out of clearance tight. And I don't "ride hard" either.   Only MHO.  Cheers.

Latin America Adventure Biker and Goldwinger

Corvette Race Track Junkie.  And oh ya, Medicare recipient.

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15 hours ago, WingVetteStrom said:

Might want to reconsider waiting.  I'm not a T7 owner yet, still waiting for the phone call, but when I did my VStrom at 15K which is the recommended check point, two of the exhaust valves were out of clearance tight. And I don't "ride hard" either.   Only MHO.  Cheers.

I checked and shimmed my 2003 VStrom 1000 at 15,000 miles also as they were known to be out……the VSTrom 650 was known to mostly stay in spec.

 

I will see what my mood and the weather is like when my T700 hits 26000.  I like to schedule service and tire changes during moderate spring and fall weather where I live.👍

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23 hours ago, whisperquiet said:

I checked and shimmed my 2003 VStrom 1000 at 15,000 miles also as they were known to be out……the VSTrom 650 was known to mostly stay in spec.

 

I will see what my mood and the weather is like when my T700 hits 26000.  I like to schedule service and tire changes during moderate spring and fall weather where I live.👍

Mine is the 650.   

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Latin America Adventure Biker and Goldwinger

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I took my valve cover off today and was able to remove it without messing with any engine mounting bolts. Rad comes out, brake line mounting bolt on right side comes out, disconnect all right side electrical connectors and remove the plastic bracket that they sit on. There are a few other bits as well just can’t remember at the moment…
 

After all that I still thought it was going to be impossible to pull the cover off however on the right side there is a depression in the tubular frame. If you get the corner of the cover into that hollow it gives you just enough wiggle room to sneak the cover off. There is no dent in the left side frame so I can only assume Yamaha designed that for this reason alone. Still tight but doable, no damage to my gasket.

 

Most valves are at the lower limit and three of my exhaust valves are too tight so I’ll be shimming tomorrow - 33000ish km.
 

 

27235EA8-2F7F-43E8-8AB1-0E6ACD90CAB7.jpeg

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