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Engine properly (first 600 miles)


AlexFriedland

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Hi, guys. I'm waiting for my T7.
Tell me how to run through the engine properly (first 600 miles)

What are the best RPM? What use gear transmissions?

Edited by AlexFriedland
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My dealer told me to just ride normally (for me)but don’t hold it at a certain rev range for  a prolonged period (ie motorway)

I met it under 6k revs with a mixture of riding - town mainly 

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Very debated topic, but as a motorcycle mechanic for over 20 years the best option is a nice varied load on the engine. Plenty of gear changes also helps loosen up the gearbox too.

High revs are just as bad as loading up the engine with too low an rpm too. And yes don’t sit on the one rpm for extended periods.

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I've used the Motoman method for years, no issues,  but as @Buggy Nate said, it's highly debated as to what's the best method. And literally YMMV.

 


New Engine Break In Procedure For Cars, Motorcycles, Motocross, Snowmobiles and Boats

 

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"Men do not quit playing because they grow old, they grow old because they quit playing" Oliver Wendell Holmes - Mods - HDB handguards, Camel-ADV Gut guard, 1 finger clutch, The Fix pedal & Rally pipe, RR side/tail rack, RR 90nm spring & Headlight guard, Rally seat, OEM heated grips- stablemate Beta 520RS

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I'm with @AZJW. Been using basically the motoman method for many engines and no problems. 

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Rough or gentle, it is up to you

 

what you do NOT want to do is holding at a certain RPM for too long (my personal rule is like more than 5 mins).

 

Go through the gears, work the clutch, move all the things that you can on the bike like the levers, brakes, handle bars.

just ride like how you would normally as you were commuting/going thru twisty, but don't go stupid rev bombing AND do not baby it...

Edited by TimmyTheHog
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2 hours ago, JhrTenere65 said:

я с@AZJW. Использовал в основном метод motoman для многих двигателей и никаких проблем. 

Did you change the oil and filter after the first 20 miles? If yes, what kind of oil did you use?
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6 hours ago, AlexFriedland said:
Did you change the oil and filter after the first 20 miles? If yes, what kind of oil did you use?

Yes at 23 miles.   Will again at the oem recommend 600 miles as well and every 4,000 after that. 

 

"Men do not quit playing because they grow old, they grow old because they quit playing" Oliver Wendell Holmes - Mods - HDB handguards, Camel-ADV Gut guard, 1 finger clutch, The Fix pedal & Rally pipe, RR side/tail rack, RR 90nm spring & Headlight guard, Rally seat, OEM heated grips- stablemate Beta 520RS

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The manual has a page on this. It does say to limit revs to 4700 rpm for the first 600 miles, then other limits to 1000 I think. I'm at 587 today so time to change the oil and have a look. 4700 rpm in 6th is between 60 and 65 mph somewhere so I have avoided highway driving and focused on back roads and twisty stuff. Highways kinda suck anyway. I tried to shift a lot and vary engine speed a lot, hopefully I didn't bog it down too much as one poster mentioned.

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FWIW I did my first oil change at 600 miles. When I cut the oil filter open, the filter was extremely clean, even when inspected with a loupe. 

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Wow, I just read the Motorman procedure, I may be OK. Unfortunately my first 20 was just home from the dealership and I was not going hard, but I was on back roads with lots of starts and stops. But then I rode it pretty hard on a spectacularly twisty and fun 100 mile loop up to a mountaintop and back down.

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thanks guys, very interesting topic.  share more information, who runs how.  I think you can follow what the manual says.  but the first 20 miles must be driven actively, but not exceeding 5k rpm in all gears.  the question remains, still change the oil after the first 20 miles, then what kind of oil is filled in?  semi-synthetics?  yamalube oil?

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@AlexFriedland I'm no expert ( didn't even stay at a Hoilday-Inn last night), but conventional wisdom suggests that conventional oil ( non-synthetic) is to be used during the break-in period.  Which break-in method and duration to be followed is the stuff legends are made of.  Personally,  I think new owners are ( understandably) maybe a bit too concerned about what to do, but threads like this help or maybe confuse as to which way to go.  Bottom line is, new engine technology has come a long way with heat treating and metallurgy, with engine failure being a pretty rare occurrence.  

Just like tire and oil threads, a definitive answer will probably never be offered or accepted universally, so it's up to us individually to cut through the fluff and do what makes us comfortable. 

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"Men do not quit playing because they grow old, they grow old because they quit playing" Oliver Wendell Holmes - Mods - HDB handguards, Camel-ADV Gut guard, 1 finger clutch, The Fix pedal & Rally pipe, RR side/tail rack, RR 90nm spring & Headlight guard, Rally seat, OEM heated grips- stablemate Beta 520RS

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  • 4 weeks later...

Vary the load,as others have said and change your oil. I changed my oil and filters at 100, 300 and 600 miles using regular Yamalube

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2 minutes ago, Subsea said:

Vary the load,as others have said and change your oil. I changed my oil and filters at 100, 300 and 600 miles using regular Yamalube

When you say "regular" do you all mean "mineral oil"?

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Yes, non synthetic, for the break in period. I switch to synthetic at 1200 miles. Just my way of doing things though. I also installed a drain plug with a magnet

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