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Tubeless rim options for the Tenere?


Tazmool

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Forget it answered my own question.

Edited by Simmons1

Tenere 700 / Africa Twin / Goldwing / Super Tenere / WR250R / GS1000S / GT750 / H2 750

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On 7/27/2020 at 6:34 AM, ScorpionT16 said:

 

Exact reason I went tubeless. 

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I did the OutEx conversion a few weeks back, almost 3k and no issues, not even 1psi loss, lots of off-road, hwy, and wet weather use. Not having tubes feels so much better in terms of peace of mind, it took me almost an hr to get the rear wheel of and bead broken at home, would not want to try that on the trail or roadside. I couldn't even spoon the Dunlop Trailmax Missions on, went to a garage, so stiff they can probably run flat, taking those off would be even harder 

 

Going this route once the new motoz boots arrive.  You're just rolling the stock front rim here, yes? Provided equiped with TPM, I see no worries in doing that or needing a tubless  beaded rim. 

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3 hours ago, Hammerhead said:

Going this route once the new motoz boots arrive.  You're just rolling the stock front rim here, yes? Provided equiped with TPM, I see no worries in doing that or needing a tubless  beaded rim. 

 

Yes, stock front rim with a TPMS, one close to 5k now, no issues... so far. 

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  • 2 weeks later...

So my question is Once you go with the Outex and set the rim, Do you install the same OEM Tire or do you have to go with a new  tubeless tire?  Also, Is the SLIME a product that you use with tubes too?

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11 hours ago, RobFelicci said:

So my question is Once you go with the Outex and set the rim, Do you install the same OEM Tire or do you have to go with a new  tubeless tire?  Also, Is the SLIME a product that you use with tubes too?

The OEM Pirelli tyres are tubeless tyres with tubes fitted. Fit the Outex and put the OEM tyres back on. Next tyre change continue with tubeless type tyres. Cheers.

Making James May look quick!

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On 7/27/2020 at 6:34 AM, ScorpionT16 said:

 

Exact reason I went tubeless. 

spacer.png

 

I did the OutEx conversion a few weeks back, almost 3k and no issues, not even 1psi loss, lots of off-road, hwy, and wet weather use. Not having tubes feels so much better in terms of peace of mind, it took me almost an hr to get the rear wheel of and bead broken at home, would not want to try that on the trail or roadside. I couldn't even spoon the Dunlop Trailmax Missions on, went to a garage, so stiff they can probably run flat, taking those off would be even harder 

 

How are the spoke nipples holding up?  I'm prepping my rims now for the Outex kit, had them trued first too.  Outex's  instructions say to grind the heads of the spoke nipples so the tape fits more flush and has more grip.  But the nipple recesses in our rims aren't very deep so the heads of the nipples protrude quite a bit.  And going by Outex's steps it would take some aggressive grinding to get them down enough.  The heads of the nipple seem pretty soft to begin with too.  I've tried finding other examples of T7 rims being prepped for the Outex kit but so far yours are the first I've seen that look like they are ground down.  It looks like other makes of rims have more of a divot for the nipple head to rest in so less would have to be ground off for the tape to fit.

 

Thanks for any input you may have.

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1 hour ago, SociallyStunted said:

How are the spoke nipples holding up?  I'm prepping my rims now for the Outex kit, had them trued first too.  Outex's  instructions say to grind the heads of the spoke nipples so the tape fits more flush and has more grip.  But the nipple recesses in our rims aren't very deep so the heads of the nipples protrude quite a bit.  And going by Outex's steps it would take some aggressive grinding to get them down enough.  The heads of the nipple seem pretty soft to begin with too.  I've tried finding other examples of T7 rims being prepped for the Outex kit but so far yours are the first I've seen that look like they are ground down.  It looks like other makes of rims have more of a divot for the nipple head to rest in so less would have to be ground off for the tape to fit.

 

Thanks for any input you may have.

I ground my spoke nipples but not as much as ScorpionT16 appears to have. Used the edge of a new grinding disk in my angle grinder to do it and smoothed any sharp edges with a dremel. The heads still protruded a bit but the outex provides plenty of cover. My tyres have held up without problem. Cheers.

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Making James May look quick!

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1 hour ago, TimG said:

I ground my spoke nipples but not as much as ScorpionT16 appears to have. Used the edge of a new grinding disk in my angle grinder to do it and smoothed any sharp edges with a dremel. The heads still protruded a bit but the outex provides plenty of cover. My tyres have held up without problem. Cheers.

No need to grind the nipples, mine is still holding after 6 weeks.

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I didn't grind mine, only removed any sharp edges. Sanded the rim joint smooth as well, but didn't really need to. With the nipples sticking out of the rim valley so far, just take your time fitting the first layer of the Outex, and you will be fine. I was a little hasty, and paid the price. Once that was repaired, all is good. Holding strong over the last 3500kms.

I think I have Yamaha disease...

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21 minutes ago, rattler said:

I wasn’t able to install Outex without grinding down the nipples. Kept getting leaks in a few spots, so annoying. 

Mine has worked out great.

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On 8/22/2020 at 7:42 PM, RobFelicci said:

So my question is Once you go with the Outex and set the rim, Do you install the same OEM Tire or do you have to go with a new  tubeless tire?  Also, Is the SLIME a product that you use with tubes too?

As the OEM Scorpion tires are actually TL tires you can re-use the OEM tires without any problems.

RTW Ténéré 700, UK to India & back on Honda CB500X

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  • 2 weeks later...

I'm considering preordering a set of Alpina tubeless rims from Italy.

 

15% preorder discount and the T700 rims are to be released this October 15th.

 

anteprima-per-social.png

 

You can specify: CNC hub, spokes, rim colors.

image.thumb.png.64ebaad42a0ce7e201b707d80f281182.png

 

Edited by REDHORSECA
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14 minutes ago, REDHORSECA said:

I'm considering pre-ordering a set of Alpina rims from Italy.

 

15% preorder discount and the T700 rims are to be released this October.

 

anteprima-per-social.png

 

You can specify: CNC hub, spokes, rim colors.

image.thumb.png.64ebaad42a0ce7e201b707d80f281182.png

 

I helped a friend put a set of those on his Africa Twin. Nice wheels and everything fit as it should. Pricey though. He did the black rims with red hubs, looks nice on his rally colored bike. He has not lost any air in either wheel.

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6 hours ago, roy826 said:

I helped a friend put a set of those on his Africa Twin. Nice wheels and everything fit as it should. Pricey though. He did the black rims with red hubs, looks nice on his rally colored bike. He has not lost any air in either wheel.

I saw on our T700 FB page that someone had done the Outex mod (which I have on hand) and he had a rear tire loose air at speed. 
 

So, I thought some piece of mind may be worth it. Not worried of a rear blow out. I am concerned about the front, with the lack of the internal safety rim for tubeless tires. 
 

The other issue is my Dealer is getting the red T700 next, I ordered the blue in June. I wanted the blue rims, I can get the Body panels wrapped or painted. So, I can order the blue rims and sell the stock ones online to off set the cost. I can accept any color T7 and put these blue rims I apex’s on the bike. 
 

I'm also going to see if Warp9 can redo the stock hubs with new Excel rim and see how much that will cost.  

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39 minutes ago, REDHORSECA said:

I saw on our T700 FB page that someone had done the Outex mod (which I have on hand) and he had a rear tire loose air at speed. 

So based upon my experience with the Outex system, the only way someone would lose tire pressure rapidly at speed (in order of possibility) are as follows:

 

- Compromised tire (Puncture/tear/etc)

- Loose/Failed valve stem

- Bent rim from hitting something (I know that one...and on the front no less)

- Extremely poor Outex installation that was 'waiting' to fail at a spoke nipple, but even then it would be a relatively slow pressure release over likely 10-15 minutes.

 

The rear is a safety rim. I rode 70kms with a rear flat E-07+ (early morning start-up and my TPMS head unit battery was dead) through some nice twisties and didn't even notice. The front is NOT a safety rim, hence the value of a TPMS set-up as no pressure will likely result in the tire pushing off the rim bead.

 

I have had both tires off since installing the Outex system, and trued both wheels. The plastic disks that you install onto the spoke nipples PRIOR to installing the Outex tape, stick to the tape and release from the nipple upon rotation, maintaining the seal integrity of the tape to the rim. I can't see how anyone could have a rapid pressure release for any other reason than above.

Edited by Canzvt
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I think I have Yamaha disease...

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6 hours ago, Canzvt said:

So based upon my experience with the Outex system, the only way someone would lose tire pressure rapidly at speed (in order of possibility) are as follows:

image.thumb.png.61c42513dd45a9761d60ff9071d84564.png

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3 minutes ago, REDHORSECA said:

image.thumb.png.61c42513dd45a9761d60ff9071d84564.png

Great. Another problem, with no description, analysis, or identification of the problem. It just broke, twice! Can't help when you don't have any info... Worked for 10K Miles, then suddenly fails. Understand how the Outex system works and you will realize that that type of failure is HIGHLY unlikely. I'm not an ambassador for Outex, just a rational thinker that needs to know why something happens. Info from Long Haul Paul could help us all understand if this is possible/probable on our tubeless fitted bikes.

 

I think I have met Long Haul Paul (If it's the same one) at the Long Beach M/C Show a couple of years ago when he was flogging his second S10 across the country/world. Interesting guy...

I think I have Yamaha disease...

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19 minutes ago, Canzvt said:

Great. Another problem, with no description, analysis, or identification of the problem. It just broke, twice! Can't help when you don't have any info... Worked for 10K Miles, then suddenly fails. Understand how the Outex system works and you will realize that that type of failure is HIGHLY unlikely. I'm not an ambassador for Outex, just a rational thinker that needs to know why something happens. Info from Long Haul Paul could help us all understand if this is possible/probable on our tubeless fitted bikes.

 

I think I have met Long Haul Paul (If it's the same one) at the Long Beach M/C Show a couple of years ago when he was flogging his second S10 across the country/world. Interesting guy...

Give him some time. He is currently on a long road trip, sure he hasn't had the time to get into details while he is currently traveling on the road. He is now in Wy. He's had a few more issues with the rear wheel losing air, temporary inner tube is shot, and was stranded by the side of the road. Service vehicle got him to the next town. He has a new tire being overnighted to him.

Edited by REDHORSECA
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On 9/22/2020 at 5:56 AM, REDHORSECA said:

I'm considering preordering a set of Alpina tubeless rims from Italy.

 

15% preorder discount and the T700 rims are to be released this October 15th.

 

anteprima-per-social.png

 

You can specify: CNC hub, spokes, rim colors.

image.thumb.png.64ebaad42a0ce7e201b707d80f281182.png

 

Have you figured out what rotors/sprocket/etc you'll need also, or are you planning to swap those parts each time you swap wheels and tires? I'm looking at a set of these wheels in all black but I want them to be complete because otherwise I doubt I'll actually swap them when I should 🙂

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2 hours ago, nhs503 said:

Have you figured out what rotors/sprocket/etc you'll need also, or are you planning to swap those parts each time you swap wheels and tires? I'm looking at a set of these wheels in all black but I want them to be complete because otherwise I doubt I'll actually swap them when I should 🙂

On my other ADV bike, I have two sets of OEM wheels.

 

One set with road tires and the 2nd set ADV tires. I bought OEM rotors/ABS rings and have them mounted.

 

I also got an second set OEM cush drive and sprocket, but this really isn't needed. Unless you want to run a different size sprocket.

 

Easy enough to swap out the cush drive between wheel sets.

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8 hours ago, nhs503 said:

Have you figured out what rotors/sprocket/etc you'll need also, or are you planning to swap those parts each time you swap wheels and tires? I'm looking at a set of these wheels in all black but I want them to be complete because otherwise I doubt I'll actually swap them when I should 🙂

I've got a complete set of wheels with off road tyres and narrow rear rim. Rally Raid built them up and @Ktmmitch did a cracking job.

 

I mounted OEM Yamaha discs and @Aleksandar13 machined some ABS rings. No need for separate sprocket carrier or cush drives.

 

The whole job is 10 mins tops and of course the chain tension is already set. I have a centre stand, so makes it even easier.

 

I'm made up with this, as now have 2 bikes in one.

 

Cheers

Rich

IMG_20200724_172112.jpg

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