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Tubeless rim options for the Tenere?


Tazmool

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21 hours ago, Alf Meister said:

With using the GOOP, can the spokes still be tightened/loosened?

@Alf Meister to give you a more detailed answer here is the response from Woody’s Wheel Works:

 

Whether you use the Goop or the little cut outs from Outex, you cannot adjust the spokes once seal installed, without risking chance of disrupting the seal.  Absolutely should check for true and true if necessary before installing the Outex kit.  If you have to adjust in the future, there is a chance that it would not disrupt the seal.”

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  • 4 weeks later...

I installed the Outex product (rear) without grinding the spoke nipples as i was not comfortable potentially compromising their integrity. Did not get it to seal, gave up, put the tube back in. Then I ordered 3M 4411 https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00WVNWNA4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 for $12 and installed it over the Outex. (two strips to cover the well and up the sides a bit. Since it still leaked a little, 8 oz. of Stan's tire sealant (use it on bicycle tires) and...tires have not lost a bit of air over 3 days so far.  And if I get a puncture the Stan's should seal the hole, just add more air. YMMV

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On 2/25/2021 at 10:12 PM, sracer said:

I installed the Outex product (rear) without grinding the spoke nipples as i was not comfortable potentially compromising their integrity. Did not get it to seal, gave up, put the tube back in. Then I ordered 3M 4411 https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00WVNWNA4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 for $12 and installed it over the Outex. (two strips to cover the well and up the sides a bit. Since it still leaked a little, 8 oz. of Stan's tire sealant (use it on bicycle tires) and...tires have not lost a bit of air over 3 days so far.  And if I get a puncture the Stan's should seal the hole, just add more air. YMMV

I’ve done back and front with no problems. Checked yesterday and they have dropped 2psi on the back and 1 psi on the front, and that’s over 2 months.

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1 hour ago, Limey said:

I’ve done back and front with no problems. Checked yesterday and they have dropped 2psi on the back and 1 psi on the front, and that’s over 2 months.

That's great, glad to hear it worked. When installing I could see the height of the spoke nipples was such that wider tape would have been a better seal. But no way was I grinding them. Did u grind yours?

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11 hours ago, sracer said:

That's great, glad to hear it worked. When installing I could see the height of the spoke nipples was such that wider tape would have been a better seal. But no way was I grinding them. Did u grind yours?

I never grounded the nipples, just made sure there was no burs or high spots. It’s definitely a two person job and I used my balancing stand also. 

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  • 2 weeks later...
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As I'm wrapping up the Winter work on my T7 I decided to install the Outex kit, and see how it goes. 

Quick Summary,
Outex on the T7 = GARBAGE, I think I'm going back to just tubes 😞 

 

Long version:
De mounting the rear tire, especially breaking the bead was one of the most difficult jobs I've done, and I've been mounting my own tires for the last 12 years, on many different bikes.


At first I decided to try and do with just a c-clamps and spoons (minimal tools) and it was 100% a no go.  NO way the bead would break.  I would hate to try to do this on the side of some dirt road in the middle of nowhere.

 

I then switched to my CycleHill tire changer (an off-shot of NoMar, its their poor man setup, made by NoMar) 
The bead was hard to break, but eventually it yielded, the tire was still hard to remove, but eventually came off (I actually bent the no-mar tip on the end of the demount bar)  

 

The front came off with out much drama.

 

I cleaned up the rims, but decided not to grind down the heads for a few reasons.
One, the heads are soft, and I'm worried that taking off a lot of material might compromise them somehow (I think this is a big part of the T7 Problem)
Two, the heads are at a pretty steep angle, if you don't get the heads ground down very evenly, when you adjust the spoke tension and the oblong part rotates up, you will lift the tape up and cause a spoke leak.

 

I took my time and tried to be very careful applying the Outex kit.

The front tire held air right away, and had no leaks (dunking the wheel in a tub of water, and monitored the tire pressure for days afterwards)

 

The rear, held air for about 15 minutes (tested it rightaway in a big tub of water), then all of a sudden a pretty substantial leak on one of the spokes started, another dunking, marked the spoke with some tape, and removed the tire.
The spoke with the leak appeared sealed, but clearly it had a problem.  repaired the leak (instructions show how to cut out a section and re-seal it, same job if you were replacing a broken spoke) 
Re mounted the tire, inflated it, boom, leak is gone.   Yay..
But immediately about 5 or 6 spokes over, another spoke leak... De mounted the tire yet again, took a look, and it appared that the tape did not get a good seal right on the narrow edge between the spoke and the edge of the U center channel. 

 

I removed the rest of the protective shield and inspected the rest of the rim.  At this point I was out of extra Outex tape and could not repair.  I don't think this method is reliable... at least for me...  
I don't know what to do differently (other than grinding down the heads) not sure if I want to do that.


A WORD OF CAUTION, if you want to remove the outex sealing tape from your rim, with out using harsh chemicals (which I would not use on an aluminium rim) be prepared for hours of manual labor.  I got all the tape off, but it took 3+ hours or so....
 

I ordered a rear wheel kit from Outex and it should be here soon.

 

The front tire has been sitting at about 24psi holding air steady, yay.
I increased the pressure to 33psi (around the recommeded front tire pressure for road) 
After one day, the front has lost 2 psi (its reading 31psi).  I have not dunked it in water yet to check where its leaking from...

 

I am very, VERY, VERY disappointed at this stage.

I think I'm going to check the front again, and verify if its leaking (and where) and demount the front tire, remove the POS outex kit (another 2-3hrs in tape removal alone) and just go back to tubes.  

I will look up some more videos on tips and tricks on changing tubes in the field with minimal tools (something I've never had to do before as I've been able to repair flats with just plugs) 


I'm so dissapointed with this, that I'm almost considering getting rid of the T7..

I know this is ridiculous and I won't do it, but it just shows the level of dissapointment I'm feeling right now, especially this close to the start of the riding season.

 

I absolutely DESPISE the fact that Yamaha chose to cheap out and use spoked rims on the T7.... 
Its NOT a dirt bike.....

 

I just did the math, and I have about $350 cnd into the Outex garbage kit (dual front&rear kit, + shipping,  + exchange + duties and other rip-off fees, plus yet another rear only kit on the way with all the same extra charges) 
All to have a un-reliable tubeless kit?  ....  I think I'm going to toss the Outex kit in the garbage when it arrives, and just put the tubes back in........

 

Reading other threads and even this thread regarding the Outex kit, it seems, in the long run, a slow leak is inevitable.

 

Tazmool 

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@TazmoolWhat an ordeal!  I almost went the Outex route.  Rather than fight a losing battle with protruding nipple heads, I was going to have a set of wheels built with dimpled Excel rims.  The dimples recess the nipple heads.  

 

Before I pulled the trigger on that (I was talking to different wheel builders, and had just settled on Woody's), I came upon Alpina's new T7 tubeless wheels.  It ended up being the same cost as Outex-sealed Woody's wheels with new hubs.  I was quoted a six week wait on the Alpinas.  I wouldn't be shocked if it takes even longer.

 

Using your old hubs for a new wheel build using the dimpled rims would be cheaper option. Another plus: it will upgrade your spokes to stainless at the same time.  And the Excel Takasago rims are forged which is a nice upgrade (lighter, stronger, balance easier) from the extruded stock rims.  

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5 hours ago, Tazmool said:

As I'm wrapping up the Winter work on my T7 I decided to install the Outex kit, and see how it goes. 

Quick Summary,
Outex on the T7 = GARBAGE, I think I'm going back to just tubes 😞 

 

Long version:
De mounting the rear tire, especially breaking the bead was one of the most difficult jobs I've done, and I've been mounting my own tires for the last 12 years, on many different bikes.


At first I decided to try and do with just a c-clamps and spoons (minimal tools) and it was 100% a no go.  NO way the bead would break.  I would hate to try to do this on the side of some dirt road in the middle of nowhere.

 

I then switched to my CycleHill tire changer (an off-shot of NoMar, its their poor man setup, made by NoMar) 
The bead was hard to break, but eventually it yielded, the tire was still hard to remove, but eventually came off (I actually bent the no-mar tip on the end of the demount bar)  

 

The front came off with out much drama.

 

I cleaned up the rims, but decided not to grind down the heads for a few reasons.
One, the heads are soft, and I'm worried that taking off a lot of material might compromise them somehow (I think this is a big part of the T7 Problem)
Two, the heads are at a pretty steep angle, if you don't get the heads ground down very evenly, when you adjust the spoke tension and the oblong part rotates up, you will lift the tape up and cause a spoke leak.

 

I took my time and tried to be very careful applying the Outex kit.

The front tire held air right away, and had no leaks (dunking the wheel in a tub of water, and monitored the tire pressure for days afterwards)

 

The rear, held air for about 15 minutes (tested it rightaway in a big tub of water), then all of a sudden a pretty substantial leak on one of the spokes started, another dunking, marked the spoke with some tape, and removed the tire.
The spoke with the leak appeared sealed, but clearly it had a problem.  repaired the leak (instructions show how to cut out a section and re-seal it, same job if you were replacing a broken spoke) 
Re mounted the tire, inflated it, boom, leak is gone.   Yay..
But immediately about 5 or 6 spokes over, another spoke leak... De mounted the tire yet again, took a look, and it appared that the tape did not get a good seal right on the narrow edge between the spoke and the edge of the U center channel. 

 

I removed the rest of the protective shield and inspected the rest of the rim.  At this point I was out of extra Outex tape and could not repair.  I don't think this method is reliable... at least for me...  
I don't know what to do differently (other than grinding down the heads) not sure if I want to do that.


A WORD OF CAUTION, if you want to remove the outex sealing tape from your rim, with out using harsh chemicals (which I would not use on an aluminium rim) be prepared for hours of manual labor.  I got all the tape off, but it took 3+ hours or so....
 

I ordered a rear wheel kit from Outex and it should be here soon.

 

The front tire has been sitting at about 24psi holding air steady, yay.
I increased the pressure to 33psi (around the recommeded front tire pressure for road) 
After one day, the front has lost 2 psi (its reading 31psi).  I have not dunked it in water yet to check where its leaking from...

 

I am very, VERY, VERY disappointed at this stage.

I think I'm going to check the front again, and verify if its leaking (and where) and demount the front tire, remove the POS outex kit (another 2-3hrs in tape removal alone) and just go back to tubes.  

I will look up some more videos on tips and tricks on changing tubes in the field with minimal tools (something I've never had to do before as I've been able to repair flats with just plugs) 


I'm so dissapointed with this, that I'm almost considering getting rid of the T7..

I know this is ridiculous and I won't do it, but it just shows the level of dissapointment I'm feeling right now, especially this close to the start of the riding season.

 

I absolutely DESPISE the fact that Yamaha chose to cheap out and use spoked rims on the T7.... 
Its NOT a dirt bike.....

 

I just did the math, and I have about $350 cnd into the Outex garbage kit (dual front&rear kit, + shipping,  + exchange + duties and other rip-off fees, plus yet another rear only kit on the way with all the same extra charges) 
All to have a un-reliable tubeless kit?  ....  I think I'm going to toss the Outex kit in the garbage when it arrives, and just put the tubes back in........

 

Reading other threads and even this thread regarding the Outex kit, it seems, in the long run, a slow leak is inevitable.

 

Tazmool 

Wow Tazmool, that is really disappointing. My experience has been completely different and I could not be happier with the outex kits. I am now on my second bike with this kit and they dont leak air. None!

There are differences with my setup, but I am still totally reliant on the outex kit doing its job. My system uses the outex kit to seal the spokes and the Tubliss kit to seal and lock the bead. I use plenty of liquid protectorant inside the (not tubeless) tire to help fit the tire and to seal the bead. I am also using 18x2.5 and 21x1.85 Excel rims, the rear especially being trickier to apply the tape.

Regarding leaks, check your valve stems are done up tight enough to seal but not too tight to distort the rubber seals. Also try getting the wheel warm by the heater with a lot of air pressure, say around 40psi, overnight to help the outex kit take shape around the spoke nipple heads. Note that I too dont file down my spoke heads other than to smooth off any sharp edges.

On the topic of the T7 not being a dirt bike, I disagree. It's gonna be ridden in anger on the dirt by many if not most riders that have dirt trails nearby to ride. To me its just a big dirt bike and love riding it like that.

You could also check out @FAR&FURTHER's videos where he talks of using the outex kit on his long overland journeys.

 

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13 hours ago, Tazmool said:

 

 

Long version:
De mounting the rear tire, especially breaking the bead was one of the most difficult jobs I've done, and I've been mounting my own tires for the last 12 years, on many different bikes.


At first I decided to try and do with just a c-clamps and spoons (minimal tools) and it was 100% a no go.  NO way the bead would break.  I would hate to try to do this on the side of some dirt road in the middle of nowhere.

 

I then switched to my CycleHill tire changer (an off-shot of NoMar, its their poor man setup, made by NoMar) 
The bead was hard to break, but eventually it yielded, the tire was still hard to remove, but eventually came off (I actually bent the no-mar tip on the end of the demount bar)  

 

.........

 

The rear, held air for about 15 minutes (tested it rightaway in a big tub of water), then all of a sudden a pretty substantial leak on one of the spokes started, another dunking, marked the spoke with some tape, and removed the tire.
The spoke with the leak appeared sealed, but clearly it had a problem.  repaired the leak (instructions show how to cut out a section and re-seal it, same job if you were replacing a broken spoke) 
Re mounted the tire, inflated it, boom, leak is gone.   Yay..
But immediately about 5 or 6 spokes over, another spoke leak... De mounted the tire yet again, took a look, and it appared that the tape did not get a good seal right on the narrow edge between the spoke and the edge of the U center channel. 

 

I removed the rest of the protective shield and inspected the rest of the rim.  At this point I was out of extra Outex tape and could not repair.  I don't think this method is reliable... at least for me...  
I don't know what to do differently (other than grinding down the heads) not sure if I want to do that.

 

 

 

I had a similar experience, on my rear. My front has been good, and was the second rim i did. I really wanted the back to be tubeless instead of the front as there is more chance for crap to puncture the rear, but i had leak after leak after leak on the rear. I cleaned the rim with acetone, 99% isopropyl alchohol, still had adhesion issues. 

 

I bought some 3m sealing tape recommended on ADVrider in some thread. Iwill probably run that over top of the outext tape in the rear, if that doesn't work, I will just save up for the rims already done. 

 

I was frustrated by this as well - I tried used my hand tools to remove the rear tire and I could not do it. I had the east bound bead breaker and it would not do a damn thing, other than i did mess up the paint. 

 

I have the same tire machine, and had similar problems breaking the bead.

 

Bending the tip i found there is kinda a trick to prevent that. when you put that tip in and hook the edge of the tire, you have to pull it ul, and work it. when you get the thin part of the tip up by the ri, then you lever it over, so you have less force on the tip and it will not bend. It's hard to describe but you are kind using that tip to grab an pull the bead of the tire up to the rim, where you can lever it over. My first tire I bent the tip on my bar too, then i figured it out, but i have a couple spares in case.

 

Mike

 

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Sorry to hear of your grief @Tazmool. Outex kit install was definitely tedious, but I also didn’t file down the spoke nipples & met with success on both wheels first try. On some experienced advice I took my time to do a very careful install. Front has lost a few psi over the winter months, but running a TPMS it’s easily handled. 
   Can’t agree that spoked wheels are any kind of “cheap out” by Yamaha,

or that the T7 isn’t a dirt bike. It certainly ‘thinks’ it’s a big dirt bike off the tarmac & gets treated like an enduro machine by some riders with larger stature & balls than I possess.

   I’d have been more disappointed if it came stock with cast alloy hoops. 
  Can relate to your frustration, but don’t let it turn you off the bike entirely.

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I've been watching this thread with great interest as I'm keen to go tubless, needing tyres pretty soon so Im  close to the time to take on this task, I'm not convinced about the outex system being the best solution from all I've been hearing and reading, I've included a link to a YouTube vid, happy to hear any thoughts on this guy's method, it just seems very straight forward, I've read a few other things on the same method with the outcome being very successful.

 

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10 minutes ago, Stevoh said:

I've been watching this thread with great interest as I'm keen to go tubless, needing tyres pretty soon so Im  close to the time to take on this task, I'm not convinced about the outex system being the best solution from all I've been hearing and reading, I've included a link to a YouTube vid, happy to hear any thoughts on this guy's method, it just seems very straight forward, I've read a few other things on the same method with the outcome being very successful.

 

I am picking up my 2021 T7 tomorrow (roads are thawed enough to be safe) & I too have watched/read all the threads regarding this issue. I am thinking that this method is what I will try, most probably later this year after wearing out the factory tires.

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48 minutes ago, Stevoh said:

I've been watching this thread with great interest as I'm keen to go tubless, needing tyres pretty soon so Im  close to the time to take on this task, I'm not convinced about the outex system being the best solution from all I've been hearing and reading, I've included a link to a YouTube vid, happy to hear any thoughts on this guy's method, it just seems very straight forward, I've read a few other things on the same method with the outcome being very successful.

 

So this video shows the exact same method in which you would install the Outex system if supplied by Woody's Wheel Works except your tape is from Outex, not some other vendor. The key is PREPARATION and PATIENCE. The difference between the wheel shown and our T7's is that the spoke nipples are raised higher on the T7, requiring more prep and patience. I found heating the Outex tape with a heat gun helped a bunch. Use a blunt tire iron, or small roller to work the bubbles out. Each rim should take about at least an hour to fit the tape properly with little to no air pockets. My wheels were done last year in May using the standard Outex method with the little plastic dots on the nipples. If I were to do another set, I would use GOOP on the nipples. I had one spoke nipple leak on the rear as I didn't squeeze out all the air under the tape before buttoning it all up. That was repaired with GOOP sealant, and after 3 tire changes, it still holds fine. Dropped about 1psi per month over the winter. Sorry to hear that some have had problems with this system as it sure makes for quick puncture repairs out on the road. Highly recommend a TPMS though as you have NO RUN FLAT PROTECTION on the front rim.

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I think I have Yamaha disease...

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I check mine yesterday for the first time since before Christmas and front and rear are still good. 

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38 minutes ago, Bighopper said:

I am picking up my 2021 T7 tomorrow (roads are thawed enough to be safe) & I too have watched/read all the threads regarding this issue. I am thinking that this method is what I will try, most probably later this year after wearing out the factory tires.

Let me know if you need assistance when you do it. I'm literally just down the road.

I think I have Yamaha disease...

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So should we bite the bullet and change all the spokes+ nipples to begin with, still use the stock rims and ... then apply Outex ?
Or grind the existing heads down, deburr, Goop and Outex ?

This is not a 2 hour job. more like 1 day per wheel.

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1 hour ago, Canzvt said:

Let me know if you need assistance when you do it. I'm literally just down the road.

Canzvt, Thanks for the Offer. I will certinaly get back to you when I look at this option.

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3 hours ago, MGG said:

So should we bite the bullet and change all the spokes+ nipples to begin with, still use the stock rims and ... then apply Outex ?
Or grind the existing heads down, deburr, Goop and Outex ?

This is not a 2 hour job. more like 1 day per wheel.

Depends upon your ability and patience I guess. I didn't grind down the nipple heads, just sanded the rim/heads with a flapper wheel on a die grinder to roughen the surface so the tape would stick better. Like I said, my Outex install was successful. The project took 2 evenings - about 8 hours total including fitting new tires.

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I think I have Yamaha disease...

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Well I checked my front, it was down to 30 psi, its leaking pretty badly..... 

I fully believe that the Outex product is pure garbage for the T7 application. 

 

I'm done with it...

 

I removed the tire, took about 3 hours to remove the garbage tape from the rim and I'll be installing the oem tubes back in tomorrow. 

 

The rear kit arrived, by now however I'm convinced the system is trash....

so straight into the garbage can it went.... where it belongs....

 
I'm done with Outex, its ridiculously expensive for what you get, if you follow their specific directions on the T7, chances are you will have leaks.

 

Watching the video above (bestrestproduct guys) regarding the tubeless conversion, that is probably FAR Superior to the outex kit.  I see that the BMW rim spokes are more centered on the rim (more room between the spoke and edge of the rim, giving it more sealing area, and the spokes are nowhere near as high as the T7 spoke heads. 

All of this should help with the sealing process. 

 

The tape used also goes up the sides of the center U channel, I think this is critical with reliably sealing the rims, as is using the goop to seal the individual rim spokes. 

 

The outex kit uses a too narrow sealing tape for the specific T7 application, its designed more for super-moto style spokes rims, with very flat heads from the factory.  I bet they never even did any testing on the T7, just quickly measured up the rims and blasted out a variant.


Again, for what you pay, the Outex Kit is overpriced garbage... I will never use it again, and will strongly recommend no one use it on their T7 with out some heavy modification to the application method.  Better, yet, just watch the above videos and build your own kit for a tiny fraction of the cost. 

 

But I also firmly believe that in this day and age, the type of spoked rim used on the T7 is a huge mistake by Yamaha.


The Yamaha Super Tenere has spoked, tubeless rims....
My ex Honda VFR-X had spoked, tubeless rims....
All mid sized (790) and larger KTM adventure bikes, have proper spoked, tubeless rims....
The upgraded Africa Twin, has Spoked, tubeless rims....
And all are done properly, these are not cast alloy rims, no rim-spoke penetrations, no messing with sealing tapes.  Just good, tubeless spoked rims, right from the Factory, like it should be.  
When those bikes are 10+ years old, they will not have spoke leaks or other weird reliability issues.

 

Far&Further has 10k km on this Outex setup, and he has leaks, what 2-3 psi loss per day?

 


Ok, I realize I'm very frustrated and venting a bit, and I'm out $350 on this tubeless project and around 10+ hours of labor, just to be back to square one, however having learned a whole bunch.  Sometimes these lessons are painful and time consuming.
I also appreciate everyone on this board trying to help, the tips and tricks, and general knowledge shared.
And thank you.

 

For now, my T7 is going back to tubes. 
I just ordered a spare set of tubes and a few tools I'll carry with me on the road (Motion Pro bead breaker, bead buddy 2, valve core puller etc), and I'll practice changing tubes with the small hand tools I'll have with me (no tire changer etc)  

Next winter I'll revisit the Tubeless project again, and likely I'll go with the 3M tape & goop setup.
This year I'm running out of time to spend wrenching on the T7, I have a few other mods to install and get the bike ready for the riding season.  I also have other pressing projects that need 100% focus that need to be dealt with soon (both career and home) and there is a little rotax engine that needs some attention...

 

Tazmool

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MGG,

 

 I kept reading complaints about the spokes tarnishing within a short period of time and also about how easy it was to bend the OEM wheels so I went to Woody's for better rims and spokes and had them do the Outex treatment at the same time.

 The rims look indestructible and the spokes are nicely finished and the multi-cross spoke job should make them even stronger! These wheels do not leak.

 I was concerned about spending the funds on the Outex stuff and then bending a wheel and having to go back and do it again!

 

Mike

 

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4 hours ago, Mike S said:

MGG,

 

 I kept reading complaints about the spokes tarnishing within a short period of time and also about how easy it was to bend the OEM wheels so I went to Woody's for better rims and spokes and had them do the Outex treatment at the same time.

 The rims look indestructible and the spokes are nicely finished and the multi-cross spoke job should make them even stronger! These wheels do not leak.

 I was concerned about spending the funds on the Outex stuff and then bending a wheel and having to go back and do it again!

 

Mike

 

I was ready to pull the trigger on a front only but the bloody  duty turned me off $260 Canadian. So I’ll wait till we do the snowbird thing next year.

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7 hours ago, Mike S said:

MGG,

 

 I kept reading complaints about the spokes tarnishing within a short period of time and also about how easy it was to bend the OEM wheels so I went to Woody's for better rims and spokes and had them do the Outex treatment at the same time.

 The rims look indestructible and the spokes are nicely finished and the multi-cross spoke job should make them even stronger! These wheels do not leak.

 I was concerned about spending the funds on the Outex stuff and then bending a wheel and having to go back and do it again!

 

Mike

 

If you don't mind me asking, what did the Woody's set up cost you? How long did it take? I don't really care about the spoke tarnishing, but I've bent my front rim twice to the point I needed to pop in a tube to get home. I occasionally ride quite aggressively, and sometimes rims and rocks don't like each other. Tougher rims and another tubeless conversion are in my future, just not sure how far. Somebody needs to license and bring that Bartubless system from Italy to North America. Looks like a far superior tubeless system.

I think I have Yamaha disease...

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Grand Total           $1513.28

 I chose the Excel 7000 series wheels in silver - Front $249 Rear $349

It would have been nice to have the gold or black wheels but I wanted to keep the cost reasonable

Stainless spokes and nipples came in at $275.04

I went for the Supersize and Superlace for $266  - this is one area that I wanted to beef up with multi-cross lacing and larger spokes

Add the Outex System came in at $300

I shipped them my hubs and it took about 3 weeks total as the front rim was not available at that time.

I think the shipping on the finished items came in around $75.

I realize that this isn't cheap but I tried to remove both tires just to see if I could patch them on the trail. I struggled with the front and finally succeeded in removing tire and tube. I then tried to do the same on the rear and could not remove the tire. I tried tire spoons, bead breakers C clamps and I could not break the bead. I took it to my local dealer and his machine was almost at the bottom of the whole stroke before the bead released. I decided that changing to something that I could repair in the field was a darn good idea!

Give Woody's a call - I am glad I did!

Mike

 

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