How important is that 1st service on a new bike? does it have to be done at a dealer?

[SpankyPineapple]

I just changed the oil and filter, gave it a once over to make sure nothing was loose, spokes were alright, everything was working.  Over 10000k's on it with no problems (that I haven't caused). 

 

[Doc Brown]

First oil change is the most important in the life of a motorcycle engine. It plays no role for the engine who does it. It may play a role for your warranty though.

If you use fully synthetic or mineral oil I leave up to you. Urban legends never die
However, I would recommend to change the oil filter every time you change the oil

[orbsurfer]

I bought printed Service Manual from Yamaha for the Ténéré 700, and did the first service myself, here in the Deep South of USA.

 

 

Why? When I picked up the brand new bike from the dealer last year, I luckily brought the bike home on the back of my pickup truck. When I came home, I started to go over the bike. The dealer had only fastened the front wheel and fastened that bolt to specs. NOTHING ELSE had been torqued to specs, no air filled in the tires since the bike left Japan, multiple loose bolts etc. etc. It was a mess! Of course you should at least check the tire pressure before every ride and I was very glad I did! If not I would probably still be laying in a ditch somewhere next to a curve!

 

Luckily I saw a video showing every step in setting up a brand new Ténéré 700 from taking it out of the box. And because I have the Service Manual, I have all the torque specs.

 

It was probably just one bad seed at the dealer, but what if he did the service on my bike? He probably would do exactly zero work.

 

I used the original oil filter, made by Denso I think, Yamalube fully synthetic oil and the original crush washer for the first service. And of course, I am a firm believer in changing the filter at every oil change. It is a ten dollar part... The Maintenance Chart in the owners manual shows oil filter change every other oil change.

 

I am also a firm believer in synthetic. When you tear apart a motorcycle engine run on synthetic oil vs. regular oil, it tends to make you a believer in synthetic oils!

 

Mobil 1 Racing 4T 10W-40 Fully Synthetic oil (available at the local Walmart) + Hiflo HF204 oil filter + generic crush washer at the later oil changes. Just because of ease. 

 

Using a motorcycle oil is important because it has different properties vs. a car engine oil. The motorcycle oil lubricates the gears in the transmission and is affecting the clutch plates too.

 

The European Ténéré 700 Owners Manual shows oil changes at 10,000 km/6,000 miles interval.

The US Ténéré 700 Owners Manual shows oil changes at 7,000 km/4,0000 miles interval.  Interesting... 

 

Many people are worried about the high torque number on the engine oil drain bolt (32 lb-ft/43 Nm) . If you use a click type torque wrench. Stop after the first click!

Edited February 12, 2021 by orbsurfer

[CReamflourish]

On 2/2/2021 at 8:11 PM, Landshark said:

I'll change my oil at 500 km mark and the 1000 km mark.  I'll use the regular oil for this as all I'm trying to achieve is getting rid of any metal filings that may have appeared in the first usage. 

Then I'll use synthetic oil for all the future oil changes.  Check this site out...

Synthetic Oil Explained | Synthetic vs. Conventional Oil |Machinery Lubrication

---

Synthetic oil is a lubricant made up of artificially made chemical compounds. Read about how synthetic oil compares with conventional oil and more.

  

 

Do I dare to open the 'semi' vs 'fully' syntheic debate?!!! 

 

When I picked my bike up from its last service I asked what they used for the oil change so that I could match it in the unlikely event of it needing a top-up before its next service.

 

They told me they always use semi-synthetic, because apparently fully-synthetic doesn't play nice with the clutches.

 

In the past I've heard of this being an issue on other bikes so I'm inclined to believe them, but half of me also thinks that its a way of maximising profits from servicing!

[Doc Brown]

If they said semi than they certainly did not want to maximize profits as they have to sell that cheaper than fully synthetic oil. I never had a problem with fully synth. oil in over 3 decades. Unfortunately I have no clue about US rules and laws. In Europe it is simple, manufacturers are allowed to call their oils SEMI synthetic without providing data specifying the amount of synthetic stuff in their oils. So in theory they can add one drop pure synth oil into a 500 litre mineral oil tank and call it semi synthetic without violating a law.
I will not recommend any type or brand of oil, I hate oil threads as they always end in an oil battle 

[Spelldrummer]

On 2/3/2021 at 10:03 PM, UtahJack said:

I changed my oil at 600mi to conventional oil and than again at 1500mi to full synthetic.

Me too, identical procedure, I used Yamalube Fully Synthetic after break in period, I habe spent 20 Yrs in trade ( with Yamaha actually.. ) and this definately a great plan to ensure long healthy engine life, although with frequent changes, Semi Synthetic perfectly fine, my preference is fully Synth, but that is because in the great scheme of things, why not spend extra to care for your machine ?

[Spelldrummer]

20 hours ago, CReamflourish said:

 

Do I dare to open the 'semi' vs 'fully' syntheic debate?!!! 

 

When I picked my bike up from its last service I asked what they used for the oil change so that I could match it in the unlikely event of it needing a top-up before its next service.

 

They told me they always use semi-synthetic, because apparently fully-synthetic doesn't play nice with the clutches.

 

In the past I've heard of this being an issue on other bikes so I'm inclined to believe them, but half of me also thinks that its a way of maximising profits from servicing!

Fully Synthetic is absolutely fine with clutch, so long as you buy the correct specification Oil, no downside to Full Synth apart from additional cost over Semi', apart from additional cost, but hey why buy a £10k Motorcycle and chooses to skimp on such a small extra cost to keep things 100% - same as crush washers, they cost almost nothing !

[CReamflourish]

 

32 minutes ago, Spelldrummer said:

Fully Synthetic is absolutely fine with clutch, so long as you buy the correct specification Oil, no downside to Full Synth apart from additional cost over Semi', apart from additional cost, but hey why buy a £10k Motorcycle and chooses to skimp on such a small extra cost to keep things 100% - same as crush washers, they cost almost nothing !

I noticed I didn't mention it, but its perhaps worth pointing out that the comment came from a Yamaha dealer!

 

They did use Yamalube Semi-Synth though, well according to the invoice they did, so I hope its 100%!

[Spelldrummer]

On 2/13/2021 at 12:10 PM, CReamflourish said:

 

I noticed I didn't mention it, but its perhaps worth pointing out that the comment came from a Yamaha dealer!

 

They did use Yamalube Semi-Synth though, well according to the invoice they did, so I hope its 100%!

Any Yamahalube even Semi-Sytnetic is perfect for your bike, just keep to regular changes as defined in manual, and all will be well, some people like to change more frequently, which never does any harm, and may be good practice if machine worked hard. I have spent around 20 Years working and running Yamaha Franchise, with some amazing technicians, learnt a lot, and Oil changes are always recommended the first piece of a great maintenance regime. 

Edited February 14, 2021 by Spelldrummer

[JayD]

Glad I found this thread, as my first service is due.

 

I checked the service manual, and the only thing I can’t do is the «perform dynamic inspection using Yamaha diagnostic tool» step. They make it sound very important, but if all they do is run a software that reads the fault codes (which I assume would be displayed on the dash), I dont really need it.

 

I could do all the check the rest myself and let them do the software thing, but even that would easily be 200$ here in Norway- they charged me 100$ to swap the rear spring as I didnt have the tool. It was a 5 minute job..

 

Have a nice day, everyone!  

 

[wb22rules]

I asked my local dealers service manager about having the bike in to have the carbs synched or the diag data pulled now that it has crossed 2000 miles, he said "if its running fine there is no need to, that thing is a tank". 

I did have to tighten the exhaust manifold a bit at 600, it was fine at 2000. Greased all the dry bits everyone has discovered, tightened two spokes, that's been about it here.

 

[Doc Brown]

Your T7 has carbs? LOL, just kidding

[wb22rules]

[TeabagInsurance]

Just did the 1000km oil service myself. Has anyone actually found out if there is a worthwhile reason for having the dealer do the service in regards to the fuel injection/throttle body sync the owner’s manual references?

[Yammybound88]

I think you should check the bike over (loose bolts, missing bolts, damaged plastics, tire pressure, etc) - adjust chain - change oil and ride it and wait for the next full service if you want to take it to a dealer.  At least this way you get a chance to see what quality of mechanic prepped your bike.

 

Comment concerning oil brand - Yamalube used for lifetime of your bike has a 20 year 160,000 km limited engine lubrication warranty.

 

* I don't think you can beat Motul for oil quality - full synthetic but that is for another thread 

[JohnnieBoy]

I also do all of my own maintenance. You cannot be denied a true warranty issue for doing your own maintenance. Just document each service with receipts. I write exact milage on each receipt of whatever it is I'm replacing. I did buy the oil/filter for first 600 mile service from the dealer where I purchased my T7. That is the last penny those douchebags will ever see from me again in this lifetime.

[Offcamber]

I do may own service, only take it to the dealer for warranty or recalls.  You would know if the throttle bodies were significantly out of sync. The bike wouldn't sound right. Syncing isn't difficult but you do need the special tool to do it correctly. I am lucky to have one of the rare Harmonizer sync tools. However if the bike sounds fine then your throttle bodies are okay. I bet most of the dealers don't actually check the sync but just listen to the engine. 

 

A lot has to do with your comfort level. Some folks won't even change the oil. I will say the more maintenance  you can do yourself the better off you are. That knowledge may make the difference between a roadside repair and a tow home.

[Dan M]

As concours said above, in the US you don't need to have the dealership service your vehicle in order to keep the warranty intact.  Just keep records and save receipts for the materials you used.

 

I've done all my own service for decades.  Knowing your bike is important and as Offcamber said, that by itself may save you a tow...

[mpatch]

On 6/27/2021 at 9:04 AM, Yammybound88 said:

I think you should check the bike over (loose bolts, missing bolts, damaged plastics, tire pressure, etc) - adjust chain - change oil and ride it and wait for the next full service if you want to take it to a dealer.  At least this way you get a chance to see what quality of mechanic prepped your bike.

 

Comment concerning oil brand - Yamalube used for lifetime of your bike has a 20 year 160,000 km limited engine lubrication warranty.

 

* I don't think you can beat Motul for oil quality - full synthetic but that is for another thread 

I call that 6 pack maintenance. Get a 6 pack and some tools and give everything a once over and stare at it, must be a wolf stare or it doesn’t work. 
 

It’ll save many headaches down the road and you get to know the bike.