Broken Chain Guard

[Fryday]

Hi All....Happy to have found this site...and I have a tough one (I think).  I have a broken chain guard, which is the easy part...the hard part is the pin it mounts to directly above the front sprocket broke as well. I can't find an expanded view of the CP2 to see how deep I could drill to pin, and re-attach the broken boss. In the pictures, you can see the snapped part....wondering if/how far into this I can drill to pin it back together. Thanks for any help!

[Liquidape]

Instead of drilling and pinning the broken boss, I would suggest using a metal filled epoxy like JB weld to reattach it instead. 
The risk of cracking the case by drilling into it and press fitting a pin is too high in my book. 
 

Also suggest a new counter sprocket. The one in the picture is pretty well shot. 

[Rider 101]

That's a curly one. 

I presume you will make a new pin. If that is the case, and I am guessing it is around 6mm diameter, then I would look at carefully drill the tapping size and threading the hole. I would do this with a vacuum cleaner to suck away the swarf. If you break through the casting fit the pin with some thread locker/sealant.

[Fryday]

3 minutes ago, Liquidape said:

Instead of drilling and pinning the broken boss, I would suggest using a metal filled epoxy like JB weld to reattach it instead. 
The risk of cracking the case by drilling into it and press fitting a pin is too high in my book. 
 

Also suggest a new counter sprocket. The one in the picture is pretty well shot. 

Definitely agree with the sprocket....I don't think I'd press fit, but want to add a pin or perhaps a threaded pin to add to the surface area for the adhesive to bond. I plan to use Marine Tex Gray. 

[Fryday]

4 minutes ago, Rider 101 said:

That's a curly one. 

I presume you will make a new pin. If that is the case, and I am guessing it is around 6mm diameter, then I would look at carefully drill the tapping size and threading the hole. I would do this with a vacuum cleaner to suck away the swarf. If you break through the casting fit the pin with some thread locker/sealant.

Agree it's a bit of a curly one....for sure. I don't really want to break through on this.....I'm concerned that there may be too much pressure for sealant?  Maybe some Liquid Steel thread repair?  Good thinking on the vacuum for sure.

[Rider 101]

I have used some of the JB Weld products to great success. I have repaired my tractor radiator top header tank with the cold weld metal. 

I doubt weather there would be much pressure in the gearbox. As with any epoxy bonds preparation is the key. 

Keep us posted ( no pun intended ) as to how you go.

Where are you located?

[Fryday]

8 minutes ago, Rider 101 said:

I have used some of the JB Weld products to great success. I have repaired my tractor radiator top header tank with the cold weld metal. 

I doubt weather there would be much pressure in the gearbox. As with any epoxy bonds preparation is the key. 

Keep us posted ( no pun intended ) as to how you go.

Where are you located?

I'm going to drill this tonight, but had to order the Marine Tex so will only be able to prep, drill, tap, and test fit. Once I have the Marine Tex, I'll glue it together forever. I'll update for sure.  I appreciate the input...you guys convinced me to give 'er a shot!

 

I'm in Kamloops, BC, Canada.

[Black99S]

2 hours ago, Fryday said:

I'm going to drill this tonight, but had to order the Marine Tex so will only be able to prep, drill, tap, and test fit. Once I have the Marine Tex, I'll glue it together forever. I'll update for sure.  I appreciate the input...you guys convinced me to give 'er a shot!

 

I'm in Kamloops, BC, Canada.

Rather than drill and pin. File a # pattern on boss and broken part interfaces. Metal epoxy will have something to grip. Also clean the OD of both parts. Add 3-4 wire splints on the OD across the break line. 

[Fryday]

Well, I got the pin drilled, and the case drilled about a half an inch without breaking through. I have a 6mm stud to go into both sections, but was ground to a halt because I don't seem to have a 6mm plug tap anymore. I'll grab one tomorrow along with some 263 threadlocker. Then I'll have to wait for the Marine Tex to show up so I can add that to the equation. Should make this plenty strong, and hopefully we won't have another chain break anyway (the cause of this fiasco). And even if it happens again, clearly the OEM equipment didn't hold so what's the difference.

 

Serious thank you for the input....it helped immensely....even just for the confidence to drill into that sucker.

[Rider 101]

4 hours ago, Fryday said:

Well, I got the pin drilled, and the case drilled about a half an inch without breaking through. I have a 6mm stud to go into both sections, but was ground to a halt because I don't seem to have a 6mm plug tap anymore. I'll grab one tomorrow along with some 263 threadlocker. Then I'll have to wait for the Marine Tex to show up so I can add that to the equation. Should make this plenty strong, and hopefully we won't have another chain break anyway (the cause of this fiasco). And even if it happens again, clearly the OEM equipment didn't hold so what's the difference.

 

Serious thank you for the input....it helped immensely....even just for the confidence to drill into that sucker.

Great outcome.