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Coil pack won’t go all the way in? Help!


Oxxa

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@Oxxa The search feature will help you with many questions.   Here's a thread that has extensive detail on spark plug removal and a mod to make subsequent plug changes easier.

 

 

 

"Men do not quit playing because they grow old, they grow old because they quit playing" Oliver Wendell Holmes - Mods - HDB handguards, Camel-ADV Gut guard, 1 finger clutch, The Fix pedal & Rally pipe, RR side/tail rack, RR 90nm spring & Headlight guard, Rally seat, OEM heated grips- stablemate Beta 520RS

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4 minutes ago, AZJW said:

@Oxxa The search feature will help you with many questions.   Here's a thread that has extensive detail on spark plug removal and a mod to make subsequent plug changes easier.

 

 

I have studied that thread in detail and there is lack of info on pulling the coil pack. Some videos make it look easy and some recommend penetrating lube.

 

so i though i would post here it anyone had any experince on this issue?

 

i tried pulling it out with my hand but its impossible.

 

can penetrating lube cause any potenial damages?

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16 minutes ago, Oxxa said:

I have studied that thread in detail and there is lack of info on pulling the coil pack. Some videos make it look easy and some recommend penetrating lube.

 

so i though i would post here it anyone had any experince on this issue?

 

i tried pulling it out with my hand but its impossible.

 

can penetrating lube cause any potenial damages?

Try the block of wood method I posted about or a wooden hammer handle noted on page 2 in a post above mine on the same page by loxsmith.  Lube wasn't necessary for mine as it's all about getting the right fulcrum to lever the caps out.

 

"Men do not quit playing because they grow old, they grow old because they quit playing" Oliver Wendell Holmes - Mods - HDB handguards, Camel-ADV Gut guard, 1 finger clutch, The Fix pedal & Rally pipe, RR side/tail rack, RR 90nm spring & Headlight guard, Rally seat, OEM heated grips- stablemate Beta 520RS

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1 hour ago, AZJW said:

Try the block of wood method I posted about or a wooden hammer handle noted on page 2 in a post above mine on the same page by loxsmith.  Lube wasn't necessary for mine as it's all about getting the right fulcrum to lever the caps out.

Im having trouble finding the posts you mentioned

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1 hour ago, AZJW said:

Try the block of wood method I posted about or a wooden hammer handle noted on page 2 in a post above mine on the same page by loxsmith.  Lube wasn't necessary for mine as it's all about getting the right fulcrum to lever the caps out.

Does this mean that you placed a block of wood under the screwdriver and pushed down? 

 

Your quote:

 

My method for getting the stuck coil packs out was to use a short 2x2 block of wood and a long screwdriver to gently lever them up

Edited by Oxxa
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5 minutes ago, Oxxa said:

Does this mean that you placed a block of wood under the screwdriver and pushed down? 

 

Your quote:

 

My method for getting the stuck coil packs out was to use a short 2x2 block of wood and a long screwdriver to gently lever them up

Place a block of wood on the cylinder head, place a long screwdriver on top of the block of wood, place the screwdriver tip under the coil pack ( arrow tip drawn in pic) and gently press down on the screwdriver to lift the coil pack up and out.

 

 

20220206_154828.jpg

 

"Men do not quit playing because they grow old, they grow old because they quit playing" Oliver Wendell Holmes - Mods - HDB handguards, Camel-ADV Gut guard, 1 finger clutch, The Fix pedal & Rally pipe, RR side/tail rack, RR 90nm spring & Headlight guard, Rally seat, OEM heated grips- stablemate Beta 520RS

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I doubt penetrating oil would be of any benefit. Just make everything a slick mess except what you're trying to unstick. The "stuck" portion is likely the rubber to sparkplug insulator interface and doubt you could get oil to it with them installed.   Using a lever sounds like a plan and something I've done in tight spaces before when pulling coils off plugs.  I haven't done the ones on my T7 but also give them a twist before lifting. It helps on some styles but not on others. 

 

Use Silicone on the boot when you put it back together to make it easier next time.  

 

Edited by Windblown
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2 minutes ago, Windblown said:

I doubt penetrating oil would be of any benefit. Just make everything a slick mess except what you're trying to unstick. The "stuck" portion is likely the rubber to sparkplug insulator interface and doubt you could get oil to it with them installed.   Using a lever sounds like a plan and something I've done in tight spaces before when pulling coils off plugs.  I haven't done the ones on my T7 bust also give them a twist before lifting. It helps on some styles but not on others. 

 

Use Silicone on the boot when you put it back together to make it easier next time.  

 

Any ideas for levers?

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3 minutes ago, Oxxa said:

Any ideas for levers?

 

Just what was suggested. A screw driver levered via a pivot made of plastic or wood. Perhaps you could carefully drive a wedge of sorts under it instead? Don't forget to try to twist it first. I don't know if its the case with these but on many a twist will "unstick it" safely and then you don't have to use as much force to get it to lift out.  

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On 4/30/2023 at 11:09 PM, Windblown said:

 

Just what was suggested. A screw driver levered via a pivot made of plastic or wood. Perhaps you could carefully drive a wedge of sorts under it instead? Don't forget to try to twist it first. I don't know if its the case with these but on many a twist will "unstick it" safely and then you don't have to use as much force to get it to lift out.  

Worked perfectly. 
 

i finished the job and put the coil packs back in. The left one is all the way in but the right has this mico gap and wont go in any further. They are both lubed with silicone.
 

Should i be worried?

IMG_2717.jpeg

Edited by Oxxa
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3 hours ago, Oxxa said:

Worked perfectly. 
 

i finished the job and put the coil packs back in. The left one is all the way in but the right has this mico gap and wont go in any further. They are both lubed with silicone.
 

Should i be worried?

IMG_2717.jpeg

 

If you have the new sparkplug fully seated and that's as far as the coil wants to seat I'd say it's fine.  (From the safe distance of my PC...)

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4 minutes ago, Windblown said:

 

If you have the new sparkplug fully seated and that's as far as the coil wants to seat I'd say it's fine.  (From the safe distance of my PC...)

New Spark plug is torque wrenched at 13nm. 

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15 hours ago, Windblown said:

 

If you have the new sparkplug fully seated and that's as far as the coil wants to seat I'd say it's fine.  (From the safe distance of my PC...)

Also i have tried lubing it, levering it down with a screw driver, pushing on it from the top with a long metal bar, etc. it wont go in any further

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Hello guys,

 

recently changed my spark plugs and the right coil pack has this gap and won’t go in any further, it is lubed with silicone grease and I have tried levering with a screwdriver and many other things but it won’t move any further down.

 

if it makes any difference, the spark plug is torque wrenched at 13nm

IMG_2715.jpeg

IMG_2717.jpeg

Edited by Oxxa
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2 minutes ago, Lewie said:

I’ve a deja vu moment….. again

Well i need to solve it so give me a break

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Can't tell from here, looks like you have to take it apart again to find the issue.

We are all tattooed in our cradles with the beliefs of our tribe

~Oliver Wendell Holmes~

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Threads merged, same subject. 

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"Men do not quit playing because they grow old, they grow old because they quit playing" Oliver Wendell Holmes - Mods - HDB handguards, Camel-ADV Gut guard, 1 finger clutch, The Fix pedal & Rally pipe, RR side/tail rack, RR 90nm spring & Headlight guard, Rally seat, OEM heated grips- stablemate Beta 520RS

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Today I peaked again and it seems like both of the coil packs have the same gap.

 

could any of you guys confirm if you have this small gap too?

Edited by Oxxa
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On 4/30/2023 at 4:09 PM, Windblown said:

 

Just what was suggested. A screw driver levered via a pivot made of plastic or wood. Perhaps you could carefully drive a wedge of sorts under it instead? Don't forget to try to twist it first. I don't know if its the case with these but on many a twist will "unstick it" safely and then you don't have to use as much force to get it to lift out.  

 

Regarding removal, not the current issue, I usually use angled needle nose pliers like this.  And maybe against a piece of wood or something.  However, not this exact one, I have a pair a bit larger.  I just pulled this up as an example.

 

614Qx5nochL._AC_SX679_.jpg.d2dcac57a44cb91dcb27166ae2f0091c.jpg

 

 

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2 minutes ago, DT675 said:

 

Regarding removal, not the current issue, I usually use angled needle nose pliers like this.  And maybe against a piece of wood or something.  However, not this exact one, I have a pair a bit larger.  I just pulled this up as an example.

 

614Qx5nochL._AC_SX679_.jpg.d2dcac57a44cb91dcb27166ae2f0091c.jpg

This is even better than with a screwdriver, cool!

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Before you go levering against delicate and expensive electrical components, there is a much easier way. There is a drain hole for the spark plug tunnels located under the header pipes on most models.

A squirt with an rubber tipped air gun and a gentle twist of the caps will free the most stubborn.

A small squirt of contact spray on the inside of the plug terminal and some silicone spray wiped on the outside makes installation a breeze.

I have seen a fair few damaged coil caps from levers in 20 years spannering.

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In the beginning I played with the rubber caps putting my finger under them and such… turns oht they are in place but they lost their shape a little so that explains the gap.

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