Clutch Arm & Cable Adjustment

[T7RAID]

Hello all, I just installed the NiceCNC clutch bracket and arm on my 2024 and am having a little issue getting it adjusted now. The only youtube video I could find with an install appears to be from NiceCNC and is hardly a step-by-step, more of a very quick video showing how quick of a job it can be (not accounting for adjustment though). I have referenced that video and another more in depth one using the Alt Rider version (similar to the Camel ADV one). I have two issues:

1) In this picture you can hopefully see that the cable is way too biased to one side of the threaded tube on the end which will wear the cable away of course.

2) I just can not get the clutch lever set up correctly. I am assuming that getting it set up correctly will also solve problem 1.

 

I tightened the clutch lever adjustment knob (lever, as in near the handguard just for clarity) all the way, and then backed it off 3-4 revolutions to allow future adjustment if need be. With this done, it then forces me to adjust the actual clutch arm (NiceCNC) so far forward that the rearward of two adjustment nuts does not have much travel left on the cable down there. What am I missing?

[406T7]

I bought the NICECNC clutch arm/cable bracket kit too. I really don't care for the plastic insert that holds the cable into the end of the clutch arm...looks like it will fail after not too many clutch actuations to me. I did also notice that it didn't look like the bracket would line the cable up with the clutch arm well, which I think is what you're finding, and bending a critical aluminum part isn't a good option. So, might not be the answer you're looking for, but my solution was the Camel ADV kit.

[Chev.]

22 hours ago, T7RAID said:

Hello all, I just installed the NiceCNC clutch bracket and arm on my 2024 and am having a little issue getting it adjusted now. The only youtube video I could find with an install appears to be from NiceCNC and is hardly a step-by-step, more of a very quick video showing how quick of a job it can be (not accounting for adjustment though). I have referenced that video and another more in depth one using the Alt Rider version (similar to the Camel ADV one). I have two issues:

1) In this picture you can hopefully see that the cable is way too biased to one side of the threaded tube on the end which will wear the cable away of course.

2) I just can not get the clutch lever set up correctly. I am assuming that getting it set up correctly will also solve problem 1.

 

I tightened the clutch lever adjustment knob (lever, as in near the handguard just for clarity) all the way, and then backed it off 3-4 revolutions to allow future adjustment if need be. With this done, it then forces me to adjust the actual clutch arm (NiceCNC) so far forward that the rearward of two adjustment nuts does not have much travel left on the cable down there. What am I missing?

I would lift the clutch arm and reposition it one or two notches on the bolt. That's what i did - had to try a couple of times before i got it what I think is perfect

Edited September 11 by Chev.

[T7RAID]

On 9/11/2024 at 10:23 AM, 406T7 said:

I bought the NICECNC clutch arm/cable bracket kit too. I really don't care for the plastic insert that holds the cable into the end of the clutch arm...looks like it will fail after not too many clutch actuations to me. I did also notice that it didn't look like the bracket would line the cable up with the clutch arm well, which I think is what you're finding, and bending a critical aluminum part isn't a good option. So, might not be the answer you're looking for, but my solution was the Camel ADV kit.

Yeah that thing is waiting to crack or deform and cause a real problem. Option one is I could 3D print a spare or two to carry around in a bag (lame). Or find something on the market, or even machine my own piece but that would be a little more involved. In any case, you have a valid point and I felt the same way about it when I saw that small plastic end plug. I am pretty sure that I will need al longer cable when I decide to get a new bar, riser, levers, etc in the not-distant future. So I will wait to deal with this until then as my bike is still brand new.

[T7RAID]

On 9/11/2024 at 12:06 PM, Chev. said:

I would lift the clutch arm and reposition it one or two notches on the bolt. That's what i did - had to try a couple of times before i got it what I think is perfect

Yup I overlooked this, and I did this finally and  I'll admit it didn't really do anything other than center the two adjustment nuts in the middle of the threaded rod/cable support with all other adjustments made remaining the same. So it was beneficial, but the clutch feel still is about stock after all of my playing with it. Overall, I wonder if the offering from Alt Rider or CamelADV is noticeably better in terms of that friction zone feeling better, and I might explore that in the future. At the end of the day I am still happy with it, it trimmed a very small amount of weight and I am a sucker for billet parts, it does look great and matches along with some other billet stuff I have on it and plan to add more. Before possibly trying the Alt Rider version, I will wait until I have my new bar and levers to see If that further dials in the clutch. Thanks for the recommendation about reorienting the splines on the shaft!

[Hawkerjet]

I feel your pain. 

 

When I first installed my Nice CNC clutch arm and bracket I had a terrible time getting it adjusted and finally gave up and put the stocker back on.

 

Then a couple of weeks ago I decided to try it again. This time I had great success.

 

The trick is getting the right position of the arm. You will see in my pics that you have to install the arm much more clockwise on the shaft than the stock setup. Once you do this getting it adjusted is a breeze.

 

Mine is now buttery smooth and I love it.

 

The only thing I am not thrilled about is how they machined the spline in the arm. The fit on the shaft is very loose compared to the stock arm. That being said, I have not had any problems with it so far.

 

Good luck. 

Edited September 15 by Hawkerjet
Spelling

[406T7]

On 9/14/2024 at 7:12 PM, T7RAID said:

Yeah that thing is waiting to crack or deform and cause a real problem. Option one is I could 3D print a spare or two to carry around in a bag (lame). Or find something on the market, or even machine my own piece but that would be a little more involved. In any case, you have a valid point and I felt the same way about it when I saw that small plastic end plug. I am pretty sure that I will need al longer cable when I decide to get a new bar, riser, levers, etc in the not-distant future. So I will wait to deal with this until then as my bike is still brand new.

I've got Rox 1" up/1" back risers and the stock cables/brake lines work fine, if that info helps. I think their 2" pivoting risers, which I have on my KLR, would need longer cables/lines though.

[T7RAID]

On 9/15/2024 at 6:20 PM, 406T7 said:

I've got Rox 1" up/1" back risers and the stock cables/brake lines work fine, if that info helps. I think their 2" pivoting risers, which I have on my KLR, would need longer cables/lines though.

I appreciate the feedback! As far as the cable length stuff goes, I'm planning on doing something pretty big with my T7 hopefully earlyish next year, which would then justify needing longer cables. So in the mean time ill just rock the stock stuff. I just got some ridiculously cheap Amazon upper AND lower crash bars for $220 total, shipped. Couldn't say no. So I'll be putting those on this weekend and then as far as what comes next, idk, I do really want to lean into controls and handlebar stuff. We shall see. Thanks again.