One-legged rider trying to relocate rear brake

[Moto Giant]

So a viewer on my YouTube channel suggested I join this forum to get some answers to relocating the rear brake to a handlebar lever.  Not sure if this is a T7-Only topic, but though someone might have seen a solution that works well?  

Anyway, glad to be here, as I just purchased a '21 bike that I rode on the TAT last year.  Very excited to get back on the road after six months recovering from my crash.

[Samm]

I’ve never done this so I’m no expert but some gnarly enduro guys replace their clutch with an auto clutch:

 

Just a moment...

 

Then ditch the clutch lever and replace it with a left hand hydraulic break. Run a custom length brake line down to your rear and that should do it. 

 

 

[Moto Giant]

I am considering a hydraulic lever.  Someone even suggested a rekluse solution which looks pretty cool....a rail mounted lever, fully adjustable position on the bar.

[TenereTragic700]

Rekluse. 

I have used their left hand rear brake lever on a KTM and it is pretty easy to use. 

Can still use the clutch but it is not that easy. 

If you want to put the rear brake control on the left bar you are probably going to have to buy a Rekluse clutch as well.

 

Edited November 15 by TenereTragic700

[random1781]

There's an Australian company Clake that makes a left hand brake/clutch kit. I've never used this myself, but it seems to be one of those things that people who do use it swear by it:

 

https://www.clake.com.au/clake-two-dual-standard-control/

 

It's a bit pricey and you'd be moving to a hydraulic clutch, but you're adding functionality to the stock configuration rather than permanently changing it.

[Hollybrook]

@Moto Giant I saw some of your videos after your crash, and am glad to hear you are getting back in the saddle. As others have posted above, the most obvious and straight forward solution in my eyes is a Rekluse auto clutch and left hand rear brake (LHRB) lever.

 

You could rig up a button operated shifter and a left foot rear brake, but it would be custom and a hassle if you needed parts on the trail. The Rekluse is off the shelf and plenty of parts are available. 

[Moto Giant]

1 hour ago, TenereTragic700 said:

Rekluse. 

I have used their left hand rear brake lever on a KTM and it is pretty easy to use. 

Can still use the clutch but it is not that easy. 

If you want to put the rear brake control on the left bar you are probably going to have by a Rekluse clutch as well.

The Rekluse looks pretty good, not sure why I would need the clutch too tho?

[Moto Giant]

36 minutes ago, random1781 said:

There's an Australian company Clake that makes a left hand brake/clutch kit. I've never used this myself, but it seems to be one of those things that people who do use it swear by it:

 

https://www.clake.com.au/clake-two-dual-standard-control/

 

It's a bit pricey and you'd be moving to a hydraulic clutch, but you're adding functionality to the stock configuration rather than permanently changing it.

WAYYYY outside my budget - I mentioned the $1k+ solutions in my video - not a buyer here, small budget guy

[Moto Giant]

1 hour ago, TenereTragic700 said:

Rekluse. 

I have used their left hand rear brake lever on a KTM and it is pretty easy to use. 

Can still use the clutch but it is not that easy. 

If you want to put the rear brake control on the left bar you are probably going to have by a Rekluse clutch as well.

But WHY do I need the clutch too?

 

[TenereTragic700]

23 minutes ago, Moto Giant said:

But WHY do I need the clutch too?

 

Have a look at their website.  You still retain the clutch lever when using the Rekluse.  Most fitments have the left hand rear brake lever in the normal clutch leaver position and the clutch lever angled up for when you do need to use it.  

Once you are proficient with a Rekluse I guess you could probably not use the clutch at all.

In the image below the clutch lever is up and the rear brake is low.

[random1781]

2 hours ago, Moto Giant said:

But WHY do I need the clutch too?

 

I don't think you NEED to, but I think that lever was made to use with their auto clutch, so probably the intent is to replace your clutch lever with this, or simply have the clutch lever there as a backup that you would be infrequently using. Basically I don't think they intend for you to use both levers at the same time. I guess you could probably get used to that, or maybe modify lever shape/position to something that's more ergonomic. Maybe try to copy the lever shape of the Clake stuff. BTW just in case you missed it, their prices are in AUD, so knock about 35% off those for USD. Still close to your cap, but it's less than the Rekluse clutch/lever pair.

[Alan M]

Personally, not sure about using an auto clutch on a heavy off road bike. 

 

Think it probably depends on how extreme you use your bike off road but the issue is the clutch can be slipping a lot without you realising it which could lead to burnt out plates or worse. Think there were a few KTM 690 owners with engine failures they put down to excessive clutch fibres blocking the oil system.

 

As has been mentioned you can just fit a second lever in parallel with the clutch.

 

One other option is a thumb brake, mostly used on road race bikes but some MX riders use them. Look neater than the parallel levers and various bar or fork fitment options.

 

Pardon our interruption...

 

[TenereTragic700]

@Alan M has a good point re Rekluse.  The owner of the KTM in the image had a 690 before that with a Rekluse. 

In 2022 I was with him in Utah, Colorado and Wyoming doing the BDRs.  In Colorado he had to replace the clutch as it was slipping.  Then he was progressively losing power over two days and then the bike stopped.  He had to have it shipped home.

As Alan M pointed out the clutch fibers had blocked the oil passages and starved the engine of lubrication.  The cam and bottom end were toast.

To their credit, Rekluse acknowledged that when they sold the 690 kit they should have recommended owners to go down one tooth on the countershaft sprocket to lower first (all) gears.

In the end Rekluse paid for the parts for the engine rebuild - ~$3000 I believe.

He put a Rekluse on his new 500 as well.

I have nothing against Rekluse - the riders I know that have them, love them.

Alan M thumb brake solution looks better.

 

Edited November 15 by TenereTragic700

[Moto Giant]

48 minutes ago, TenereTragic700 said:

@Alan M has a good point re Rekluse.  The owner of the KTM in the image had a 690 before that with a Rekluse. 

In 2022 I was with him in Utah, Colorado and Wyoming doing the BDRs.  In Colorado he had to replace the clutch as it was slipping.  Then he was progressively losing power over two days and then the bike stopped.  He had to have it shipped home.

As Alan M pointed out the clutch fibers had blocked the oil passages and starved the engine of lubrication.  The cam and bottom end were toast.

To their credit, Rekluse acknowledged that when they sold the 690 kit they should have recommended owners to go down one tooth on the countershaft sprocket to lower first (all) gears.

In the end Rekluse paid for the parts for the engine rebuild - ~$3000 I believe.

He put a Rekluse on his new 500 as well.

I have nothing against Rekluse - the riders I know that have them, love them.

Alan M thumb brake solution looks better.

 

Certainly not interested in a Rekluse clutch, but I AM interested in the brake solution?

[Redbikejohn]

System on my 250xc race bike. 

Homemade by using mtb master cylinder for clutch use and oem clutch as a rear brake. I was using a rekluse too.

I think not using a rekluse alongside a lhrb is a mistake.  You'll not be able to use it except for general slowing down etc as you need to pull clutch in a lot for general riding.

Excessive Clutch slip is down to poor riding ie youare in too high a gear accelerate - a normal bike will buck and chug and/or stall whereas a rekluse will slip to enable smooth pick-up. 

I raced a 450 and 250 for years without changing discs.

[Alan M]

2 hours ago, Redbikejohn said:

System on my 250xc race bike. 

Homemade by using mtb master cylinder for clutch use and oem clutch as a rear brake. I was using a rekluse too.

I think not using a rekluse alongside a lhrb is a mistake.  You'll not be able to use it except for general slowing down etc as you need to pull clutch in a lot for general riding.

Excessive Clutch slip is down to poor riding ie youare in too high a gear accelerate - a normal bike will buck and chug and/or stall whereas a rekluse will slip to enable smooth pick-up. 

I raced a 450 and 250 for years without changing discs.

Yeah, I said ‘heavy off road bike’ i.e T7.

 

Anyone that’s taken an enduro and a T7 off road will quickly realise how easily the T7 gets hung up on the simplest obstacle an enduro wouldn’t notice. With a conventional clutch you know how much slip/stress you’re putting on the clutch to get out.

 

Don’t get me wrong there’s a place for auto clutches, they’re a god send after 4hrs + when you’ve lost your clutch hand. 

[mpatch]

Since the T7 does not have a hydraulic clutch. The clake is out of the question without spending a ton of money. Look into the ox brake. 
 

https://ox-brake.com/dirt-bike-left-hand-rear-brakes/
 

 

[olivcody]

In french, they use a finger lever and explain why/how it is even better than brake with enduro boots 

Some of stunt bikers use a similar system while they are sitting on the tank

 

Edited November 16 by olivcody

[chinchliffeuk]

If you get in touch with these guys they should be able to help. I ride a 700 Tenere with my friend on his 700 Tenere, who is a double amputee (above the knee on the right, below the knee on the left). We've ridden all over Europe. I can take photos of his bike set up if you want.

 

Chris

[Moto Giant]

1 hour ago, chinchliffeuk said:

If you get in touch with these guys they should be able to help. I ride a 700 Tenere with my friend on his 700 Tenere, who is a double amputee (above the knee on the right, below the knee on the left). We've ridden all over Europe. I can take photos of his bike set up if you want.

 

Chris

I would love to see a video walkaround?

[chinchliffeuk]

Not great with the photos, so hope these will show the modifications. Some are the front brake adaption, but I've added his Kitronic gear change mechanism as well.

Chris

Edited November 20 by chinchliffeuk

[Moto Giant]

23 minutes ago, chinchliffeuk said:

Not great with the photos, so hope these will show the modifications. Some are the front brake adaption, but I've added his Kitronic gear change mechanism as well.

Chris

 

Looks like you squeezed it in on the right side?  How hard was that?

[chinchliffeuk]

It was fitted by the dealer when he bought the new bike. They did a great job, but no major adjustments.

 

Chris

[Hollybrook]

@Moto Giant After watching your video about brake relocation, I wonder if you care about keeping your bike able to be ridden by other riders, or only by you. For instance, if you add a left hand rear brake lever, do you want to retain the standard right foot brake lever? 

 

As for the rear brake lever's excessive travel,  CamelADV makes "the Fix", which reduces travel and greatly improves brake feel. That might be helpful even for a hand lever. 

Edited November 21 by Hollybrook

[Moto Giant]

3 hours ago, Hollybrook said:

@Moto Giant After watching your video about brake relocation, I wonder if you care about keeping your bike able to be ridden by other riders, or only by you. For instance, if you add a left hand rear brake lever, do you want to retain the standard right foot brake lever? 

 

As for the rear brake lever's excessive travel,  CamelADV makes "the Fix", which reduces travel and greatly improves brake feel. That might be helpful even for a hand lever. 

As long as it does not cost a significant amount of money to keep both, yes.  Otherwise, I cannot see a reason to keep both - my ankle will never be able to use it, but I would like others to be able to ride it with the training on the optional brake.