auxillary lights- how/ where to fit the switch

[Treps]

2 hours ago, bikeever said:

Do you have a link?

 

I took the details from an earlier post on this thread: 

https://traces-deux-roues.com/phare-additionnel-longue-portee-led-vision-x/

 

and then googled the supplier vision-x 

The link below is for the 4x5W version. I emailed them about price and delivery and Stephane from vision-x mentioned the 4x7W model (available but not on their website yet) 

 

Vision X Europe - DURALUX MINI COMBO 4 LED 20W

---

Vision X High Performance LED Work Light.The Duralux Series combines durability and affordability for on-the-job light The DURA series provides an economy LED light for 100 Watt halogen replacement. With a super low amp draw, 5 watt LED driven to 90% efficiency and E-Mark approval on certain models, the DURA series...

 

[PPiA]

Hi,

I used this method to setup a couple of lights today.

Did you know there's another yellow wire going to a white plug a bit further back?

When you hook up to it, the tail light comes on with the isolation switch, then with ignition on the brake light activates with that switch.

Note for others, READ THE F#$@ING INSTRUCTIONS.

Just sayin...

[DORTx2]

Hey guys I've got a quick question for you all. I'm new with electrical stuff and I've been trying to follow this thread but I am a little lost. I'm going to be wiring up the skene iq-275 to a pair to Baja design s2 pros and I'm going to be using a Rowe power distribution module and I'm using only the high beam as a switch.

 

So my first question is regarding the relay I haven't seen anything in any of my manuals or on any videos  mentioning a relay, do I need this in my situation or can I just use a posi-tap to tap into the yellow high beam wire to the IQ-275's white wire. It states on the website "Note that the IQ-275 serves as a relay, so no separate relay is required."

 

And when I'm wiring up the violet and orange wires from the IQ-275 back to my PDM should I combine those 2 wires into just one of the circuit wires on my PDM or am I going to have to use a separate circuit for each wire?

 

Thanks for your time guys I've been stumped for a few days on this.

 

 

Installation - IQ-275 | skenelights

 This is the wiring diagram I'm going off of.

Edited November 1, 2020 by DORTx2

[slakdawg]

@DORTx2

 

1. You need the extra relay because of the special high beam configuration on the T7. It is 12 volt on low beam and 0.88 volt on high beam. The relay "cleans" this up so the Skene can work as designed.

2. You can combine them into one power source wire on the PDM60

[DORTx2]

4 hours ago, slakdawg said:

@DORTx2

 

1. You need the extra relay because of the special high beam configuration on the T7. It is 12 volt on low beam and 0.88 volt on high beam. The relay "cleans" this up so the Skene can work as designed.

2. You can combine them into one power source wire on the PDM60

Awesome, thank you so much. Would this be an appropriate relay to purchase for this?

 

Amazon.ca Something Went Wrong / Quelque chose s'est mal passé

 

[slakdawg]

Yup. Just ignore the middle, red wire. It's not used in this application.

[DORTx2]

6 hours ago, slakdawg said:

Yup. Just ignore the middle, red wire. It's not used in this application.

 

 

Awesome much appreciated.

Edited November 2, 2020 by DORTx2

[Seventh Son]

On 8/13/2020 at 7:12 PM, Canzvt said:

I did things a bit differently. Fitted Rigid Ignite Mini Spots for visibility and some night-time ditch viewing and fitted the switch on a dashboard that I fabricated and mounts to the main gauge pad. I basically leave the lights on all the time.

 

 

Don't mean to derail the thread, but how did you mount your tire pressure monitor gauge next to the instrument cluster?  I have the same one and would like to get it off my handlebars and mount it somewhere higher as well.  Where you have it mounted is the perfect spot. 

[Canzvt]

38 minutes ago, Seventh Son said:

Don't mean to derail the thread, but how did you mount your tire pressure monitor gauge next to the instrument cluster?  I have the same one and would like to get it off my handlebars and mount it somewhere higher as well.  Where you have it mounted is the perfect spot. 

So, the Gauge pod sits on a weird isolation mount that clips (and bolts) to the back of the headlight/fairing frame. The gauge is actually rubber mounted to the isolation mount. If you disassemble all of that you will see that on the back of the pod are 4 bosses. 2 on each side of the back of the gauge pod. I simply built 2 suitable sizes aluminum plates (could use plastic/carbon/whatever suitable material), one for each side which I bonded via a butyl based sealant to the back of the gauge pod and then sandwiched it between the gauge pod and the isolation mount (Sorry I don't have pictures - did it when I first bought the bike back in May). Drilled appropriately sized holes for mounting the TPMS Module, and the light/grip heater switches and re-assembled everything.

 

Good luck.

[Seventh Son]

1 hour ago, Canzvt said:

So, the Gauge pod sits on a weird isolation mount that clips (and bolts) to the back of the headlight/fairing frame. The gauge is actually rubber mounted to the isolation mount. If you disassemble all of that you will see that on the back of the pod are 4 bosses. 2 on each side of the back of the gauge pod. I simply built 2 suitable sizes aluminum plates (could use plastic/carbon/whatever suitable material), one for each side which I bonded via a butyl based sealant to the back of the gauge pod and then sandwiched it between the gauge pod and the isolation mount (Sorry I don't have pictures - did it when I first bought the bike back in May). Drilled appropriately sized holes for mounting the TPMS Module, and the light/grip heater switches and re-assembled everything.

 

Good luck.

Definitely more involved than I had thought, but it gives me a good starting point and some ideas.  Thanks for taking the time for your write-up.

[Canzvt]

2 minutes ago, Seventh Son said:

Definitely more involved than I had thought, but it gives me a good starting point and some ideas.  Thanks for taking the time for your write-up.

Forgot to mention that the plate have 2 holes drilled into them that match up with the bosses on the back of the gauge pod, so when the plates are bonded to the back of the pod, the plates can't slip out sideways as they are located by the bosses. A bit of work to make, but solid and not going anywhere once bonded.

[DORTx2]

So I've got my relay and I was planning on plugging it into my 3 pin auxiliary plug on the right hand side, what is the best way to make this connection? Should I posi tap into the 2 red wires? if so what do with the ground pin? Is this needed or should I cap it off? Sorry if this doesn't make much sense. 

[Goldentaco]

Well since you've all done  the legwork to get the lighting controls to work triggering off the high beam I guess I'll add this to make it more confusing lol.

 

I'm in the process of wiring in a pair of Baja Designs S2Pro using their Squadron/S2 Motorcycle Skene Dimmer Kit.  As it seems everyone else has worked around the Odd High beam operation by adding a relay , I have confirmed you don't actually need to do that.  This harness and the Skene IQ-275 will work with no separate relay if you think outside of the box.

 

For a description of the BD harness and how they prewired the Skene IQ-275, you can look over this thread near the end post #37: 

A couple things to note: 

-OP in that thread didn't understand how BD prewired the harness.

-BD's included instructions ARE correct.

-BD's description of the harness on their website does not clarify how it's prewired and is very confusing when they include the Skene wiring instructions. NO wonder the guy had trouble sorting it out.  If you are comfortable working with this type of elecrical circuitry, you can figure it out.  But as a plug and play it should be clearer.  Again, the included instructions work on most bikes and would have on that 1200 GS.

Baja Designs Squadron Motorcycle Skene Dimmer Kit Install | Page 2 | Adventure Rider

---

I'll look at my bike when I get home and hopefully can report back with some helpful info

 

 

 

So how do you accomplish this with no relay?  You don't use the white wire to connect to the headlight (you'll use it to program the Skene controller, after that it gets taped up).  Use the Skene Yellow wire.  You can then program the function of the Skene yellow wire to provide X% light output on position "C" for Low beam operation and program position "A" for full output. 

Once you connect the Skene yellow wire to the OEM High beam wire ( Yellow) you gain the ability to switch between two output levels.  I don't need three different output levels and don't plan to use these for conspicuosity.

 

So what functions will my setup retain?

-The BD harness assumes you will wire the kit directly to the battery and will turn on or off the aux lights.  They combine the main +12v and the switched +12v on the same lead so it's possible to leave the lights on accidentally.  Not good.  I have a PDM60 installed so I'm using that to supply a switched +12v to the BD harness and drive the S2Pros.  Just removing the BD installed fuse holder and ring terminal.

 

-Lighting control: I can turn the lights ON or OFF as needed with the included switch. I typically will not need them unless splitting lanes ( for visibility) or at night to avoid the critters.

 

-Aux light functions: On Low I programmed output at 50% and High beam 100%.

 

I think the confusing part is where the Skene (Optional) switch for the Yellow wire says it needs Ground, +12,  and disconnected.  If you think about it like @sebti described, voltage whether +12v or 0v is only a difference in electrical potential between two points.  The IQ-275 really looks for a "High" signal (+12v...or even +10v), a "Low" signal ( Ground or 0v), and None ( Disconnected).  So the controller treats the 0.88v on the OEM High Beam wire the same as a Ground connection.  Internally it's sensing the connections on two different circuits and translates the resulting input to the desired action.

 

Good Luck.  The struggle is real.

 

J

 

Edited November 6, 2020 by Goldentaco

[DORTx2]

Damn I just wired up the exact same setup as you. BD skene kit with s2 pros to a PDM 60 and this info would have been great a day or two ago! Instead I went out and bought a relay and did an absolute hackjob wiring it all together.

[Goldentaco]

14 minutes ago, DORTx2 said:

Damn I just wired up the exact same setup as you. BD skene kit with s2 pros to a PDM 60 and this info would have been great a day or two ago! Instead I went out and bought a relay and did an absolute hackjob wiring it all together.

Hah.  It took a few days to get it set up and tested as I was waiting and am still waiting for a couple Positaps to show up.  I didn't want to suggest this prematurely as I figured there would be something odd when it was all hooked up.  I got it mocked up last night and tested all good.  Now I'm a Positap away from being able to wrap it up.

 

ON the plus side, you got it all working and probably learnt something in the process.  I know I did.

 

 

J

[DORTx2]

2 hours ago, Goldentaco said:

Hah.  It took a few days to get it set up and tested as I was waiting and am still waiting for a couple Positaps to show up.  I didn't want to suggest this prematurely as I figured there would be something odd when it was all hooked up.  I got it mocked up last night and tested all good.  Now I'm a Positap away from being able to wrap it up.

 

ON the plus side, you got it all working and probably learnt something in the process.  I know I did.

 

 

J

I definitely learned a lot and it's all working how I want it to be, so I really can't feel bad. I just made it a lot more difficult than I needed too. Also I'm not sure how long some of my connections are going to last.

[nKep]

On 10/16/2020 at 10:27 PM, FredBasset said:

I returned my 2.0 S4 kit, as the S4 kit comes with the basic wiring harness, unlike other Denali kits like the D4 etc.  I have ordered individual parts, as I wanted the Premium harness, which allows the standard on/off switch to be swapped out, for either the off/low/high, or the switch eliminator plug to be used (the kit S4 switch is hard wired and can’t be removed or swapped out).

 

So I have ordered:

 

2x S4 LED Pods

1x Premium harness

1x low/high/off switch or switch eliminator plug

 

Already have this from a previous bike, 1x 2.0 DataDim dual intensity controller relay 

I was also looking at the Denali lights and thought the D4's are too big so I shifted to the S4's.

As I've read from your posts, they come with the standard wiring harness, but couldn't find it on their website.

Could you please help me with the product codes for each individual component or maybe some links (EU / UK) ?

Cheers !

[TimmyTheHog]

22 hours ago, Goldentaco said:

Well since you've all done  the legwork to get the lighting controls to work triggering off the high beam I guess I'll add this to make it more confusing lol.

 

I'm in the process of wiring in a pair of Baja Designs S2Pro using their Squadron/S2 Motorcycle Skene Dimmer Kit.  As it seems everyone else has worked around the Odd High beam operation by adding a relay , I have confirmed you don't actually need to do that.  This harness and the Skene IQ-275 will work with no separate relay if you think outside of the box.

 

For a description of the BD harness and how they prewired the Skene IQ-275, you can look over this thread near the end post #37: 

A couple things to note: 

-OP in that thread didn't understand how BD prewired the harness.

-BD's included instructions ARE correct.

-BD's description of the harness on their website does not clarify how it's prewired and is very confusing when they include the Skene wiring instructions. NO wonder the guy had trouble sorting it out.  If you are comfortable working with this type of elecrical circuitry, you can figure it out.  But as a plug and play it should be clearer.  Again, the included instructions work on most bikes and would have on that 1200 GS.

Baja Designs Squadron Motorcycle Skene Dimmer Kit Install | Page 2 | Adventure Rider

---

I'll look at my bike when I get home and hopefully can report back with some helpful info

 

 

 

So how do you accomplish this with no relay?  You don't use the white wire to connect to the headlight (you'll use it to program the Skene controller, after that it gets taped up).  Use the Skene Yellow wire.  You can then program the function of the Skene yellow wire to provide X% light output on position "C" for Low beam operation and program position "A" for full output. 

Once you connect the Skene yellow wire to the OEM High beam wire ( Yellow) you gain the ability to switch between two output levels.  I don't need three different output levels and don't plan to use these for conspicuosity.

 

So what functions will my setup retain?

-The BD harness assumes you will wire the kit directly to the battery and will turn on or off the aux lights.  They combine the main +12v and the switched +12v on the same lead so it's possible to leave the lights on accidentally.  Not good.  I have a PDM60 installed so I'm using that to supply a switched +12v to the BD harness and drive the S2Pros.  Just removing the BD installed fuse holder and ring terminal.

 

-Lighting control: I can turn the lights ON or OFF as needed with the included switch. I typically will not need them unless splitting lanes ( for visibility) or at night to avoid the critters.

 

-Aux light functions: On Low I programmed output at 50% and High beam 100%.

 

I think the confusing part is where the Skene (Optional) switch for the Yellow wire says it needs Ground, +12,  and disconnected.  If you think about it like @sebti described, voltage whether +12v or 0v is only a difference in electrical potential between two points.  The IQ-275 really looks for a "High" signal (+12v...or even +10v), a "Low" signal ( Ground or 0v), and None ( Disconnected).  So the controller treats the 0.88v on the OEM High Beam wire the same as a Ground connection.  Internally it's sensing the connections on two different circuits and translates the resulting input to the desired action.

 

Good Luck.  The struggle is real.

 

J

 

@Goldentaco Correct me if I am wrong...

 

so basically instead of "Ground gives 10%", you program Skene to say "Ground gives 100%"...?

Edited November 7, 2020 by TimmyTheHog

[Goldentaco]

Just now, TimmyTheHog said:

@Goldentaco Correct me if I am wrong...

 

so basically instead of "Ground gives 10%", you program Skene to say "Ground gives 100%"...?

Yes.  You program "Ground" to function how you want the light to operate on High Beam.  Follow Skene's instructions for programming  the controller. 

 

J

[SwissinCali]

@ Sebti / slakdawg / FredBasset

Thanks for the tips with the relay.

I tried to transfer my Clearwater Erica lights from my previous BMW R 1200 GSA, but had the problem with the lights dimming on pressing the High-Beam.

Thanks to your explanations and schematic I was able to resolve the issues. 

Cheers!

 

 

[Huero]

Hello fellas, 

I have read and re-read this thread.  I am attempting to wire some denali d4’s for a buddy. Typically, I just look for the high beam trigger wire to excite the relay for the lights. Am I understanding correctly that I cannot just positap into a high beam wire to excite the relay for the Denali lights?

I am so lost.  
 

Thanks

 

[Enduro boy]

On 8/21/2020 at 2:08 PM, BMRT7 said:

 

Honestly, no... I can't. Typically in a relay you have a low power circuit to activate the coil (85 & 86) which then closes the switched high power circuit (87 & 30). In a standard configuration the low power circuit gets power and ground.

Hi, just about to do this mod to my T7. I've just checked the yellow wire with my electrical tester on the

black 6 connector plug (I know only 4 are used), and it doesn't light up my tester when on main beam ? Is this correct ?

[BMRT7]

2 hours ago, Enduro boy said:

Hi, just about to do this mod to my T7. I've just checked the yellow wire with my electrical tester on the

black 6 connector plug (I know only 4 are used), and it doesn't light up my tester when on main beam ? Is this correct ?

Yes

[Enduro boy]

55 minutes ago, BMRT7 said:

Yes

Thanks !

[Huero]

Hey fellas, 

This is what I have.  I do not have a skene or dimmer and would like to wire without an external switch.  Man, I have tried everything.  I spent 6 hours today and didn’t gain any ground.  I am really to pull my hair out and I’m already bald.
 

Any help would be greatly appreciated.  Someone mentioned having a friend that re-arranged some of the wires, I assume this would be changing the pins on the relay. However, I have no idea where to reposition the wires.

 

If someone knows how to wire this harness and can explain or diagram it for an electrically challenged individual, I would be so grateful. 
 

thanks, 

huero