auxillary lights- how/ where to fit the switch

[Yammybound88]

@MVDBR I really enjoy watching your channel.  Need more Nat's word of the day - you both have a good sense of humour and ride the sh*t out of those bikes.   Love the terrain.

 

cheers

-Bob

 

[Cratt]

Okay so I'm doing heated grips, I plan to use the OEM plug, I have a aftermarket harness to use to tie into. Why are there two red white wires? Will either side do for a red positive wire that needs a keyed connection? And can I put my ground wire on the black? I assume that's correct. My left thumb is holding the two ground wires, and my pinky is on the positive.

[RideID]

@Crattyou need to connect both of those red ground wires your thumb is touching - one each from each grip heater. Connect those two to the ground wire on your aftermarket harness, and the single red wire (your pinky is touching) to switched power.

[RideID]

@CrattThose are Heat Demon grip heaters right? If you need the instructions let me know.

[Burnsey]

Despite the ‘troubles’ I like Denali, so I’ve ordered a pair of S4 pods, the T7 specific bracket and included in the kit I've gone for is a dual intensity controller and three position switch, so they can be wired independently and operate on 50%, 100% and off albeit manually. That way the lights are a complete stand alone.

 

Just in case I feel confident enough to tap into the high beam, I've included a switch eliminator for the sake of a tenner, which would negate the need for the dual intensity controller and double switch - it's all about experimenting...

 

EDIT: Someone recommended this today, so will see what progress I make with the kit already ordered, but looks interesting in the fight against frying the T7 ecu, so keep it bookmarked for a possible pick up later.

 

PC8

 

Edited December 29, 2021 by Burnsey

[Tseven]

On 11/5/2020 at 6:27 PM, Goldentaco said:

Well since you've all done  the legwork to get the lighting controls to work triggering off the high beam I guess I'll add this to make it more confusing lol.

 

I'm in the process of wiring in a pair of Baja Designs S2Pro using their Squadron/S2 Motorcycle Skene Dimmer Kit.  As it seems everyone else has worked around the Odd High beam operation by adding a relay , I have confirmed you don't actually need to do that.  This harness and the Skene IQ-275 will work with no separate relay if you think outside of the box.

 

For a description of the BD harness and how they prewired the Skene IQ-275, you can look over this thread near the end post #37: 

A couple things to note: 

-OP in that thread didn't understand how BD prewired the harness.

-BD's included instructions ARE correct.

-BD's description of the harness on their website does not clarify how it's prewired and is very confusing when they include the Skene wiring instructions. NO wonder the guy had trouble sorting it out.  If you are comfortable working with this type of elecrical circuitry, you can figure it out.  But as a plug and play it should be clearer.  Again, the included instructions work on most bikes and would have on that 1200 GS.

Baja Designs Squadron Motorcycle Skene Dimmer Kit Install | Page 2 | Adventure Rider

---

I'll look at my bike when I get home and hopefully can report back with some helpful info

 

 

 

So how do you accomplish this with no relay?  You don't use the white wire to connect to the headlight (you'll use it to program the Skene controller, after that it gets taped up).  Use the Skene Yellow wire.  You can then program the function of the Skene yellow wire to provide X% light output on position "C" for Low beam operation and program position "A" for full output. 

Once you connect the Skene yellow wire to the OEM High beam wire ( Yellow) you gain the ability to switch between two output levels.  I don't need three different output levels and don't plan to use these for conspicuosity.

 

So what functions will my setup retain?

-The BD harness assumes you will wire the kit directly to the battery and will turn on or off the aux lights.  They combine the main +12v and the switched +12v on the same lead so it's possible to leave the lights on accidentally.  Not good.  I have a PDM60 installed so I'm using that to supply a switched +12v to the BD harness and drive the S2Pros.  Just removing the BD installed fuse holder and ring terminal.

 

-Lighting control: I can turn the lights ON or OFF as needed with the included switch. I typically will not need them unless splitting lanes ( for visibility) or at night to avoid the critters.

 

-Aux light functions: On Low I programmed output at 50% and High beam 100%.

 

I think the confusing part is where the Skene (Optional) switch for the Yellow wire says it needs Ground, +12,  and disconnected.  If you think about it like @sebti described, voltage whether +12v or 0v is only a difference in electrical potential between two points.  The IQ-275 really looks for a "High" signal (+12v...or even +10v), a "Low" signal ( Ground or 0v), and None ( Disconnected).  So the controller treats the 0.88v on the OEM High Beam wire the same as a Ground connection.  Internally it's sensing the connections on two different circuits and translates the resulting input to the desired action.

 

Good Luck.  The struggle is real.

 

J

 

When you say "you'll use it to program Skene controller" (white wire), does that mean you connect it to something?  I have the Skene yellow wire connected to the headlight yellow wire and it won't let me program the brightness.

[doniv]

On 4/14/2024 at 8:46 PM, Tseven said:

When you say "you'll use it to program Skene controller" (white wire), does that mean you connect it to something?  I have the Skene yellow wire connected to the headlight yellow wire and it won't let me program the brightness.

For what it's worth, I got the Skene IQ-275X that's designed for bikes like the T7 that have a voltage drop on the high-beam wire when it's switched on. I had to scratch my noggin a bit because I found the instructions a bit confusing, but it's working as expected now. I can program the brightness and I can also have the aux lights running / off on the low beam since I've wired up a switch for it. I did not need to wire up an additional relay.

[Goldentaco]

On 4/14/2024 at 8:46 PM, Tseven said:

When you say "you'll use it to program Skene controller" (white wire), does that mean you connect it to something?  I have the Skene yellow wire connected to the headlight yellow wire and it won't let me program the brightness.

Yes. The White wire is connected to a +12 source during programming to mimic High Beam ON. Then removed for High Beam Off.   I ran a spare wire up to the front so I could tap the White to it when the instructions said to turn on High Beam.

 

With Skene Yellow connected to the High beam wire, and Low beams on = Position "C" on the chart.  I think I left this default for my low beam.  If you turn on High Beam via Left Combo switch = Position A.  It's reverse of what we want so that's why you have to program it.  I programmed this for 100%.  When you're done with programming, Tape up White wire, you're done with it.

 

J

[Tseven]

@doniv I emailed Skene and they confirmed that the IQ-275 isn't meant for the T7. I have the IQ-275X on the way now.

 

@Goldentaco oooh that's smart. Yea I would have never figured that out. haha Thanks for the explanation. I ended up sending the unit back and getting the one Skene recommended.

[Goldentaco]

3 hours ago, Tseven said:

@doniv I emailed Skene and they confirmed that the IQ-275 isn't meant for the T7. I have the IQ-275X on the way now.

 

@Goldentaco oooh that's smart. Yea I would have never figured that out. haha Thanks for the explanation. I ended up sending the unit back and getting the one Skene recommended.

Probably a good option.  When the T7 came out there weren't many off the shelf units compatible with our headlight functions.  Now there are a few different options.

 

J