side stand possibly needed

[dobbi]

Ok, so after a week of messing about, a few rides out and a bit more messing about I've got the bike to a comfortable height. I'm 5 foot 5, 165cm high and have standard suspension setting low seat and 20mm lowering linkage. with a pair of walking boots on I'm happy with the reach of my feet but I'm finding that the side stand is hard to engage, having to lean the bike to the right to slide out the side stand before sliding it to the left to set it on it. it all sits well once off the bike.

 

However, a smaller side stand might make this easier and i'd probalby just go for a cheap ebay item at first to see if it works well. Has anyone else done this and does it affect the side stand cut out switch?

 

its a shame to get rid of the original because it has a lovely bit foot on it, and before I get to this I'm going to set up the sag correctly over the weekend, but at around 70kg, I think I'm probalby not too far off. Anyway, any thoughts are most welcome.

 

Cheers

 

Dave

[Flyinbrianbmx]

I did the opposite and did the rally kit front and back, adds and inch of heigh. now my Tenere leans way to much  the grass is always greener am I right? haha Report back here if you find a good one that works! I'm interested! 

[Ol'crazy]

Hope the solder can withstand the stress. I have no experience with this technique, but the weight of the bike, plus the rider and the inertia movement could be too much.

 

These guys told me today they are working in a version of his adjustable side stand for our bikes:
 

Super Tenere XTZ1200 Adjustable Kickstand Side Stand

---

Our BILLET Super Tenere XTZ1200 Adjustable Kickstand Side Stand lowering kickstands use stainless steel hardware and are CNC machined from SOLID ALUMINUM. They are capable of stock length to 3 inches shorter and are the strongest, best looking on the mar

 

Edited September 10, 2020 by Ol'crazy

[Aleksandar13]

3 hours ago, dobbi said:

Ok, so after a week of messing about, a few rides out and a bit more messing about I've got the bike to a comfortable height. I'm 5 foot 5, 165cm high and have standard suspension setting low seat and 20mm lowering linkage. with a pair of walking boots on I'm happy with the reach of my feet but I'm finding that the side stand is hard to engage, having to lean the bike to the right to slide out the side stand before sliding it to the left to set it on it. it all sits well once off the bike.

 

However, a smaller side stand might make this easier and i'd probalby just go for a cheap ebay item at first to see if it works well. Has anyone else done this and does it affect the side stand cut out switch?

 

its a shame to get rid of the original because it has a lovely bit foot on it, and before I get to this I'm going to set up the sag correctly over the weekend, but at around 70kg, I think I'm probalby not too far off. Anyway, any thoughts are most welcome.

 

Cheers

 

Dave

Dave here is my stand that I could sell to you.. Its machined out of solid aluminium and I don't use it... Very good quality and finish.. From memory it's minus 35 or 40mm from stock.

Pm me if interested. 

Aleks 

[Flyinbrianbmx]

25 minutes ago, Ol'crazy said:

Hope the solder can withstand the stress. I have no experience with this technique, but the weight of the bike, plus the rider and the inertia movement could be too much.

 

These guys told me today they are working in a version of his adjustable side stand for our bikes:
 

Super Tenere XTZ1200 Adjustable Kickstand Side Stand

---

Our BILLET Super Tenere XTZ1200 Adjustable Kickstand Side Stand lowering kickstands use stainless steel hardware and are CNC machined from SOLID ALUMINUM. They are capable of stock length to 3 inches shorter and are the strongest, best looking on the mar

 

well damn! wouldn't that be perfect! please keep us updated on the release of that if you're watching for it!

[Flyinbrianbmx]

2 minutes ago, Aleksandar13 said:

Dave here is my stand that I could sell to you.. Its machined out of solid aluminium and I don't use it... Very good quality and finish.. From memory it's minus 35 or 40mm from stock.

Pm me if interested. 

Aleks 

wish I had the tools myself to do this! I need a longer one! 

[Aleksandar13]

16 minutes ago, Flyinbrianbmx said:

wish I had the tools myself to do this! I need a longer one! 

Longer is easily done... Drill and tapp bottom of the stand and have a plate added to it.. But machining is always nice...

 

[Ol'crazy]

46 minutes ago, Flyinbrianbmx said:

well damn! wouldn't that be perfect! please keep us updated on the release of that if you're watching for it!

 

Of course 

[Ol'crazy]

32 minutes ago, 29er said:

It's Aluminium welded - not soldered - (copper pipes are soldered, circuit boards are soldered)...Motorbike swing arms are aluminium welded, motorbike frames are aluminium welded (my side stand is aluminium welded), similar processes but vastly different heat and materials are used, i have no reservations whatsoever about the integrity of the weld, especially so as i cut the foot at the point of least  resistance.... at the bottom, so any forces are pretty much downward through the foot rather than sideways as might be the case if it were cut in the middle. Welded joint are as strong as the surrounding metal and you will have no issues at all, soldered joints are soft in comparison and not suitable for structural purposes. If you look at your Tenere bike frame, you will see that that is welded, my stand is no different. I would bet my wages that in a stress test my welded solid aluminium alloy stand would perform better than the adjustable stand as stainless steel has lower tensile strength,  nonetheless both are more than up to the job..... whereas mine only cost £10, i'll spend the saving on fuel. 

 

Thanks for the explanation. The price difference is really notorious. 

 

I'd like to try it, but i prefer not to cut the side stand of my bike. Anybody knows the reference of the OEM piece to buy a replacement and make the experience?

 

[dobbi]

1 hour ago, Aleksandar13 said:

Dave here is my stand that I could sell to you.. Its machined out of solid aluminium and I don't use it... Very good quality and finish.. From memory it's minus 35 or 40mm from stock.

Pm me if interested. 

Aleks 

Thanks for the offer. I'm not sure if 35 to 40mm off is going to be too much for me. Its hard to tell until I am really settled on teh bike but I get the feeling that about15 to 20mm will be about right. If it is more I will be in contact because it is certainly a looker!!!

[dobbi]

2 hours ago, 29er said:

You are not far away from me so if you need to pop over and i can assist... for the stand spring removal - put the stand down to stretch the spring, then i put blade fuses (as i have loads) into the gaps in the spring, put the stand up and the spring is loose and comes off really easily. I took mine to Leominster Engineering to re-weld. 

 

To get the stand off: ignore the nut on the front - that dose not need to come off at all - on the rear are two large Allen Head bolts take these out, and between them is a small bolt holding the kill switch to the rear thats it. 

Thanks for that, I will probably pull it off first to see how it is fixed and see if a cheap ebay item might fit and do the job. Yes side stand kill switch is not at all neecary. after the first elevated left hander you soon learn to check its not down, just like the good old days!

 

I'll be in contact for some more hints if I'm going down the cut and weld option. Cheers!

[Ol'crazy]

 

On 9/10/2020 at 6:54 PM, 29er said:

Did this today , likewise lowered bike  and the stand is a PIA on any uneven ground, even in a lay-by it was almost falling over with the stand slightly too high on uneven ground - it cost me £10, i cut the foot off myself to the shape you can see to retain the bracing triangle it has, then cut 20mm off the stand stem itself, took it to a welder / engineering place in town and he welded the foot back on the shortened  stem for £10 while i waited!!  (i gave him £15) i cleaned up the weld myself with a sanding wheel in he drill (make sure they don't weld the foot on the wrong way round - mark it up),  and did away with the side stand kill switch at the same time, I cut the switch off leaving tails to reconnect if needed in future and just put the wires left on the bike  into a crimp and taped up inside the sleeve and cable tied  - job done - ten quid!!

 

Hi again 29er,

 

How does the welded kickstand fare after a few more days? Holds without signs of fatigue in the material?

 

And are you happy with the 20mm cut or now would you do it differently?

 

Regards.

 

 

 

 

[dobbi]

Well, here is my £12 side stand.

 

It required quite a bit of work. Bought a £12 alu. side stand off ebay. welded together some 20mm box section because it was not tall enough, bolted it onto the bottom, filed out the upper holder and drilled it out to fit the correct bolt (I recon this is the weak part of the effort), made a stop for max and min reach and then fixed the side stand switch, coveingi it up and hiding it in the bash plate.

 

Quite a lot of effort really but it does work and allows  the kick stand to be put out without catching the ground. Appears to be fairly strong but not massivly stable as it hasnt got the sideways reach of the original. Perfectly adequate for road. probalby a bit abysmal for off road.

 

I think I am going to keep this for a few weeks and follow 29ers lead and get my original stand cut down by 20mm.

 

An interesting experiment if nothing else.

[AllOfTheData]

On 9/10/2020 at 9:32 AM, Flyinbrianbmx said:

I did the opposite and did the rally kit front and back, adds and inch of heigh. now my Tenere leans way to much  the grass is always greener am I right? haha Report back here if you find a good one that works! I'm interested! 

@Flyinbrianbmx what is this rally kit you installed? 

[dobbi]

The original side stand is so big and wide it gives ample oppertuninty to bolt on something below it . Too many people want you to make something when you can make it yourself. give it a go!

[Ol'crazy]

I finally cut the kickstand the same way  @29er did and had it to a specialist in weldering, who did an excellent job. The weldering has not been very nice, but I prefer not to clean it so as not to remove material and make sure that the weldering is as resistant as possible.
Several weeks later it appears that the weldering really withstands the same treatment as the original kickstand.
(Thanks @Gekkdroid )

 

 

[Flyinbrianbmx]

18 hours ago, AllOfTheData said:

@Flyinbrianbmx what is this rally kit you installed? 

the kit from Rally Raid, they're great!

[MGG]

I did lower my T7 by 200mm and I like it a lot.

The sidestand situation however does not allow a stable angle in some situations, I would prefer more lean angle and use a larger foot in soft terrain. 

Any chance that some other sidestands fits on the T7 ? ... similar to other items like footpegs meant for a WR450.

[Aleksandar13]

6 hours ago, MGG said:

I did lower my T7 by 200mm and I like it a lot.

The sidestand situation however does not allow a stable angle in some situations, I would prefer more lean angle and use a larger foot in soft terrain. 

Any chance that some other sidestands fits on the T7 ? ... similar to other items like footpegs meant for a WR450.

PM back with price for the machined one... 

[dobbi]

Proper cheap way of doing it

 

Ok so the £10 side stand eventually bent and fell apart. to be honest not really worth the effort.

 

Unfortunatley I am so skint at the moment, it had to be something even cheaper and more chearful than the ebay option.

 

This works well and isn't too awful looking

 

cut the top of a 10mm bolt off, drill 2 parrallell holes 4mm is probably the largest you want. cut off a section above the foot (I took 20mm which worked out about right for me as I have 20mm off the rear and dropped the forks about 18mm.

 

make sure the two faces match perfectly so the weight of the bike is transfered evenly. drill holes in the stand and foot ( make sure these are spot on so they both sit together perfectly bolt up and put a large cable tie on because you are nervous.

It seems to have worked well. the bolt sitting in the recess is there to stop the foot moving about. the bolt and cable tie are only there to hold the bolt in the recess to stop the foot flexing. the bolts are not there to take any weight, hence the need to get the faces perfectly matched.

 

 

[MGG]

There is always an adjustable solution out there ... hunting it down and validating quality is another matter.

 

https://www.t-rex-racing.com/2020-Yamaha-Tenere-700-Center-Stand-p/ks77-7.htm

Price: $114.95

Availability:: In Production Soon

[dobbi]

That is not a bad option.

 

As someone said around this topic, that when fully loaded up ride hight changes considerably, having an adjstable stand might be of considerable use.

[rumrum]

I made an adjustable side stand for my old DR. The DR stand is a steel tube so just cut a section out of it welded a nut on one end and a threaded rod on the other. It worked but would not bother doing it again as it was quite heavy and how often in reality was I ever going to adjust it.

[Blockhead]

That adjustable side stand looks the goods I'm going to cut and weld mine should it fail I will purchase the adjustable side stand.

[Linglongar]

I got the T-Rex side stand on eBay.  Around 120.00 but very well made and you can adjust it longer or shorter.  It has a very good size foot and is quite stout.    I wish they made one for my DR 650.  Like my prior KLR, not enough lean.