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There is a charcoal canister on the T7? Anyone remove it?


Tazmool

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Howdy, 

I was watching a adv camel video regarding replacing the front sprocket, and the guy mentioned there is a charcoal canister on the T7? 

To me that seems like an opportunity to lighten the bike a bit by removing it, and simplifying some of the plumbing (which usually improves reliability) 
Can anyone verify that the NorthAmerican version has this canister? 

Has anyone removed this canister? 

 

Tazmool

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With a bit of hunting for photos on this great forum, I found some good close up photos of a Canadian T7 still in box, and yes, the charcoal canister is there.....

 

I think another project in the works, how to remove that thing and save a bit of weight and reduce complexity. 
The todo project pile is getting tall!

 

Tazmool

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@tonyubsdell might be the one who has removed the canister and might be able to share some pictures in this thread ... this is if my memory is still good ... apologise if not 😄 

 

Aleks 

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14 hours ago, Aleksandar13 said:

@tonyubsdell might be the one who has removed the canister and might be able to share some pictures in this thread ... this is if my memory is still good ... apologise if not 😄 

 

Aleks 

your memory is still up to date 😉

stay fit and healthy

cheers,

wolf

 

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9 minutes ago, tonyubsdell said:

your memory is still up to date 😉

stay fit and healthy

cheers,

wolf

 

Hi Wolf, 

If you get a chance these days when you are not that busy maybe post some pictures of the mod and a short review of the benefits. 

Thank you, 

Aleks 

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15 hours ago, Tazmool said:

With a bit of hunting for photos on this great forum, I found some good close up photos of a Canadian T7 still in box, and yes, the charcoal canister is there.....

 

I think another project in the works, how to remove that thing and save a bit of weight and reduce complexity. 
The todo project pile is getting tall!

 

Tazmool

hi tazmool,

yes, i did remove that canister. it is lightweight, so you do not save more than maybe 200 grams. a fuel hose that goes into that canister needs to be plugged - that is all.

the canister itself was nicely tugged into a rubber clamp, this one is ideal to house now that it is empty some tools or some sort of toolbox or tool roll. enough room for a  bicycle pump or tire levers...

 

cheers,

wolf

 

you will find pics here:

 

adv_og_logo.png

thanks, I just ordered the kit. cheers Bob BTW @ScorpionT16 - I live just down the road from you in Hamilton and I'm picking up some Outback bars from...

 

or there:

 

adv_og_logo.png

Oh man, have you ever been to jungle junction? Favorite overland spot on earth. Maybe that should be my retirement plan... Yeah, that’s what little...

 

you'll have to go a few pages back as i have done the conversion earlier in this year.

sorry not to be able to give you all the pics here, i am very involved in the health system now and very busy.

 

cheers,

wolf

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  • 4 weeks later...

Can't seem to find the pictures, has anyone been able to locate them?

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Removing the canister will not save you much weight, and it really is not a good idea to plug the hose that goes to it, If you remove the canister it usually is best that you either reroute the hose or extend it to have direct access to the ground. Your fuel tank needs to be vented, plugging the hose in some instances may result in an increase for possible vapor lock of the fuel system or a mess on the tank when removing the gas cap. Fuel tanks have always been vented from day one of the internal combustion engine the addition of canisters was just an environmental effort to reduce fuel vapor in the atmosphere.   

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You NEVER plug the vent hose from the tank to the canister. That now goes to atmosphere. In other words, route it to the ground. This is the first bike I've ever had where they actually put the canister in an unimportant spot, out of the way. I'm usually one of the first guys removing emissions crap, but this time it is best to leave it alone unless you happen to be in there and need to remove it for service. You'd be lucky to save 1lb of weight. It's only a plastic canister with fairly short, small rubber hoses.

 

The best method is to run hoses from the nipples on the throttle bodies with plugs that would allow easier syncing later (these ports have to be sealed somehow for normal operation). Then run one hose directly to the bottom of the frame from the fuel vent. And that's it, pull the rest away and you're done. I don't even see any wiring to the canister itself which is a nice surprise.

Edited by sbeck09
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Regarding running a hose "to the ground", try cutting off the end at a 45 degree angle (face the cut angle toward the rear to prevent it turning into a dirt scoop).   A sharp Beta mechanic/racer told me that cutting the hose end at a 45 helps prevent plugging in the event you drag it through mud or soft dirt that could pack the end and plug the vent hose.   I've done this for years and (knock on wood) I haven't had a plugged vent hose since trying this.

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"Men do not quit playing because they grow old, they grow old because they quit playing" Oliver Wendell Holmes - Mods - HDB handguards, Camel-ADV Gut guard, 1 finger clutch, The Fix pedal & Rally pipe, RR side/tail rack, RR 90nm spring & Headlight guard, Rally seat, OEM heated grips- stablemate Beta 520RS

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On 5/22/2020 at 3:14 AM, tonyubsdell said:

hi tazmool,

yes, i did remove that canister. it is lightweight, so you do not save more than maybe 200 grams. a fuel hose that goes into that canister needs to be plugged - that is all.

the canister itself was nicely tugged into a rubber clamp, this one is ideal to house now that it is empty some tools or some sort of toolbox or tool roll. enough room for a  bicycle pump or tire levers...

 

cheers,

wolf

 

you will find pics here:

 

adv_og_logo.png

thanks, I just ordered the kit. cheers Bob BTW @ScorpionT16 - I live just down the road from you in Hamilton and I'm picking up some Outback bars from...

 

or there:

 

adv_og_logo.png

Oh man, have you ever been to jungle junction? Favorite overland spot on earth. Maybe that should be my retirement plan... Yeah, that’s what little...

 

you'll have to go a few pages back as i have done the conversion earlier in this year.

sorry not to be able to give you all the pics here, i am very involved in the health system now and very busy.

 

cheers,

wolf

That thread is a 700 + page clusterphuck,.  I used to post in it, but everything gets lost because who can go search 700 pages to find what you need?   Tech info should be posted here, where each topic has it's own section and can be found easily. 

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  • 2 months later...

Did anyone who removed it notice an increase in topping up the tank itself? It always takes ages to get the last couple of litres in it. 

I was thinking it would let the vent flow more easily.. 

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  • 3 months later...

As you can see, it saves a pound. All you need to do is disconnect the tank vent and leave it under the tank, then plug each connection at the throttle bodies.IMG_1489.thumb.jpg.057d38ca395903f4efaae04dd4123544.jpg

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  • 4 months later...
On 11/23/2020 at 2:30 AM, Motodude said:

As you can see, it saves a pound. All you need to do is disconnect the tank vent and leave it under the tank, then plug each connection at the throttle bodies.IMG_1489.thumb.jpg.057d38ca395903f4efaae04dd4123544.jpg

1 pound here one pound there and soon we will have lost 10 pounds... I plan on getting this out and the airbox out with a special intake... Do you have pictures of the tubes going to the throttle bodies? 

Aleks 

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No pictures available, it's an easy job. Just follow the small rubber tubes to the throttle bodies, cut them about a quarter inch from the fitting and plug the opening with a dab of silicone rubber to seal off air.

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On 11/22/2020 at 7:30 PM, Motodude said:

As you can see, it saves a pound. All you need to do is disconnect the tank vent and leave it under the tank, then plug each connection at the throttle bodies.IMG_1489.thumb.jpg.057d38ca395903f4efaae04dd4123544.jpg

Did this throw a check engine code when you removed it? Any parts you removed to make this easier to reach?

Edited by RPM25
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It did not throw any engine code lights because there is no electrical connection. Take off the tank in order to get access to the throttle bodies.

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ok thanks for the reply, I sent in my ecu to get flashed and was told they would shut off the canister fault code so I thought it would throw a code.

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Thanks everyone who posted, it looks like a very easy mod.

This particular spot where the charcoal canister is located, looks like it may be useful for the air pump for a stebel nautilus air horn.... I've tried to shoe-horn those onto any bike that has the room for it. 

Or, just reduce weight and complexity of the bike, which is great for reliability. 

 

Tazmool

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