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Adrenolin

Motion Pro Bead Breaker Tools

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Adrenolin

Who has, likes, carries and doesn’t? I’ve looked at them a few times but have always passed. Found I was always able to break the bead with decent irons. For the T7 was thinking if they don’t work the side stand will. Opinions, comments, steel or aluminum?


 

 

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Brownie
Posted (edited)

I've been looking at these as well.  Alum version to take on the trail for sure.  It depends on the rear wheel type that comes on the bike.  I don't have one yet, so I don't know.  The front wheel is should be an WM type which is a standard dirt bike tube type and easy to break the bead.  The rear might be an MT type with the extra hump between the drop center and the bead shelf.  If it's a MT type rim in combination with a tubeless tire it IS a MF! to break a bead and remove a tube out in the bush.  (my rear on the ktm950 had this setup).  It's also tougher to get the tire seated back on the bead after.  I used a riding partners side stand for that in the past and it works.  I ride solo a lot now and looking for options.  DIY tubeless conversion is another option.

Edited by Brownie
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ScorpionT16

I just bought a set of those bead breakers and the outEx kit for the T7. When I get to taking the tires off, will let you know how they work. Atm they are the only levers I own, so hoping they work well

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Adrenolin

I wouldn’t go with the aluminum ones. I’ve been down that road and I’ll buy, use and carry the heavier steel versions if I decide to buy a set. I’ve had the aluminum levers bend and know others who have broken and injured themselves. I think the Amazon listing I’m for the aluminum ones even has a photo of someone who had one break. I’ll carry the extra weight. It’s not like I’m ultralight backpacking cross country with them on my back. 😂
 

Good info about the different rims also. 👍🏻 I hadn’t considered that. 
 

I already have the sw-motech center stand and with the bike on that It makes using the side stand to break the bead.. lol easy enough. 

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Brownie

Most tubeless fixes are a matter of plug and 10-20 minutes with a water break.  A tube swap, tired and in the hot sun, can be an hour or more and end with varying degrees of success.  Usually, disgruntled riding partners too.  Depending on your prior experience and technique,  I recommend every rider practice tire changes at home with your trail tool kit in controlled conditions (with plenty of water, band-aids and a crying towel) until you got it.

 

FYI, this is the "easy" type rim to break.

 

 

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ScorpionT16
Posted (edited)
2 hours ago, Adrenolin said:

I wouldn’t go with the aluminum ones. I’ve been down that road and I’ll buy, use and carry the heavier steel versions if I decide to buy a set. I’ve had the aluminum levers bend and know others who have broken and injured themselves. I think the Amazon listing I’m for the aluminum ones even has a photo of someone who had one break. I’ll carry the extra weight. It’s not like I’m ultralight backpacking cross country with them on my back. 😂
 

Good info about the different rims also. 👍🏻 I hadn’t considered that. 
 

I already have the sw-motech center stand and with the bike on that It makes using the side stand to break the bead.. lol easy enough. 

 

The one review on amazon with the bent ones, just from the picture, those aren't genuine bead breakers, they are much longer and look like knock-offs, no even branding on them, or they were the steel versions. I have the aluminum ones, and they are way shorter than the image posted. Also, I would much rather bend the tool, than the rim trying to take the tire off if something has to give

 

Otherwise from amazon to revzilla, its all 4.5-5 Stars plus for them, with over 100+ reviews

Edited by ScorpionT16

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close range

I have a set of aluminum ones. They work great, I already used them to swap the stock tires out.

I drilled 2 holes in each lever and bolted them to where I removed the passenger pegs. They act as a tie down point for luggage as well.

If you break them your not keeping the tire in the centre of the rim.

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