Rally Raid fork preload spacers

[Alf Meister]

Just received my Rally Raid fork preload spacers, has anyone done this mod yet, or can anyone explain how to do this please (is it just a case of removing the top fork cap or is it more complex? Any advice would be very much appreciated. 

[Limey]

13 minutes ago, Alf Meister said:

Just received my Rally Raid fork preload spacers, has anyone done this mod yet, or can anyone explain how to do this please (is it just a case of removing the top fork cap or is it more complex? Any advice would be very much appreciated. 

I’ve ordered the caps and the spacers and this is what I found on there website.

http://www.rally-raidproducts.co.uk/image/data/PDF/RRP 614 T7 PreLoadCaps V2.pdf

[Limey]

I’m wondering if you really need to pull the forks off the bike ?

[whisperquiet]

10 minutes ago, Limey said:

I’m wondering if you really need to pull the forks off the bike ?

They are cartridge forks....I would think much easier (and less messy) off the bike.

[Vtamb81]

16 minutes ago, Limey said:

I’m wondering if you really need to pull the forks off the bike ?

Thanks for asking the question. My spacers are on the way and I had the same thoughts. 

[Alf Meister]

Cheers Limey . Was hoping there would be a how to YouTube vid, but alas there isnt. 

[roy826]

You will need the tool to hold the spring down once you remove the cap from the threaded rod it’s attached to. These are not old telescopic type forks. I’ve done many a dirtbike, same setup, I’m light so most bikes are way too stiffly sprung for me in the woods on them. The T7 stock is about right for me at 135 lbs but I do not like the type spring they used so I may change mine in the front eventually. With the correct tool it can be done with forks still on the bike however I usually just remove them, much easier to work with off the bike. 

Edited August 14, 2020 by roy826

[Limey]

12 minutes ago, roy826 said:

You will need the tool to hold the spring down once you remove the cap from the threaded rod it’s attached to. These are not old telescopic type forks. I’ve done many a dirtbike, same setup, I’m light so most bikes are way too stiffly sprung for me in the woods on them. The T7 stock is about right for me at 135 lbs but I do not like the type spring they used so I may change mine in the front eventually. With the correct tool it can be done with forks still on the bike however I usually just remove them, much easier to work with off the bike. 

I’ve just red the instructions from Rally Raid and I can’t see the need for a special tool, maybe I’m missing something?

[roy826]

Well you’ll soon find out lol 

 

Seriously the cap screws onto the damper rod. Spring is still under tension with cap removed. 

[Alf Meister]

Had a gander at the RR fork pre-load adjuster install and if your just installing the pre-load spacers, then all you need is a 19mm & 17mm spanner. Please correct me if you know this is incorrect. 

 

 

Edited August 15, 2020 by Alf Meister
Edit images

[MGG]

16 hours ago, roy826 said:

Well you’ll soon find out lol 

 

Seriously the cap screws onto the damper rod. Spring is still under tension with cap removed. 

... So if I want to add spacers I  need to compress the cap onto the spring to be able to attach the cap to the rod going through the spring?

If this is the case then it would be easier to take it out completely. Right?.... I was hoping that the spring would not be under tension when removed.

... Do we need to change the oil at the same time?... Or add some?

[roy826]

57 minutes ago, MGG said:

... So if I want to add spacers I  need to compress the cap onto the spring to be able to attach the cap to the rod going through the spring?

If this is the case then it would be easier to take it out completely. Right?.... I was hoping that the spring would not be under tension when removed.

... Do we need to change the oil at the same time?... Or add some?

Depending on time on the bike I would just change the oil at the same time. Dual stage oil in them outter And inner oil contained in two places. It must be pumped out of inner cartridge by up and down movement of the piston rod. Outter oil of course will just pour out when you turn the forks upside down with cap off. Helps to have a nice rubber jaw vise when working on forks. As for the type oil I like the Yamaha specific S1 oil, very pricey but works really good in the forks. Most likely what’s in it from the factory but I haven’t completely read the service manual on this thing in this area. Springs slide out once cap is off and tension released on the spring.. don’t forget to back all the rebound and compression adjusters all the way out before disassembly of the forks completely. This should be covered in the service manual. These forks are not much different than the 250F Yamaha I did a spring swap on couple a years back. Cap is a different design but intervals look to be the same stuff. 
 

Service manual should spell out what needs to be done in detail. Oil level is personal thing higher or lower depending on what type riding you’ll be doing. I generally set mine as close to stock as possible. 

[Suspension101]

Adding preload why?

The bike already has about 13mm of preload.

Just going to make the forks less compliant / plush in the small fast type of hits. Studder bumps, rocks etc.

Will have a negligible affect on bottoming resistance.

Some KTM's come with 17mm or more preload.

On those I order custom shorter than oem springs and get into the 6 to 10mm pre-load range depending whether they have the spring pre-load adjusters on that particular model.

More spring rate, less pre-load gives plusher safer ride, better overall performance and bottoming resistance.

Doing a T7 currently and going to a stronger spring by fabricating a new spring perch. This allows a longer spring giving the spring maker the room to up the rate without binding the springs when the suspension compresses.

 

[Vtamb81]

Thanks for the insight @Suspension101. You say your modifying the spring perch so you can increase the spring rate without binding. In your opinion, what symptoms would present themselves from just increasing the spring rate without modifying the perch?

 

the static/rider sag on my forks are pretty far off, and the front dives pretty aggressively on braking....so I am looking into replacing the springs before diving deeper into the fork internals.  

[Alf Meister]

18 hours ago, Suspension101 said:

Adding preload why?

The bike already has about 13mm of preload.

Just going to make the forks less compliant / plush in the small fast type of hits. Studder bumps, rocks etc.

Will have a negligible affect on bottoming resistance.

Some KTM's come with 17mm or more preload.

On those I order custom shorter than oem springs and get into the 6 to 10mm pre-load range depending whether they have the spring pre-load adjusters on that particular model.

More spring rate, less pre-load gives plusher safer ride, better overall performance and bottoming resistance.

Doing a T7 currently and going to a stronger spring by fabricating a new spring perch. This allows a longer spring giving the spring maker the room to up the rate without binding the springs when the suspension compresses.

Interesting post and appreciate your knowledge, but I like many, don’t have access to someone that has your knowledge of the T7, so we have  two routes if we want to improve the front end on the T7, try a different fork spring (or pre-load adjusters that apparently are not a good idea with the oem spring and  assume the same issue would be encountered with a heavier spring unless its shorter than), or spend a lot of money on after market cartridge kits.

Could you Please suggest a relatively easy solution (for the home mechanic) that would improve the quality of ride from the forks (plusher feeling) on the street please. I am about 95Kg suited and booted and ready to ride, so well over the recommended weight for the oem fork spring. 

Edited August 17, 2020 by Alf Meister

[Suspension101]

You can get as much as .64kg with stock size spring.

The bike currently has a .59kg spring set.

Spring length on the @CamelAdv  bike measured 423mm with a 410mm cavity. Spring lengths will vary a bit.

Just up your spring rate and do not up your pre-load. This will improve the ride. By removing the spacer at the bottom of the fork cap and inserting a washer inside the cap you can lighten up the preload below the 13mm quite easily, stock sized spring. Playing with this can get you even more compliance, just depends how hard you ride it. High speed hits both in speed of bike and speed of fork compression will need more preload.

Easier riding needs less.

Same issues with a heavier spring? No.

Current issue is not enough spring, and that makes for a more jarring ride.

Bigger guys or guys that really run fast and hard need more than a .64kg so we modify the fork for a longer spring set. Also easier on the spring itself being longer.

[Vtamb81]

Rally Raids instructions indicate that when the fork cap is removed there is a steel cup washer and OEM plastic washers.   I’ve only done one of my forks legs but it had no OEM plastic washers, just the steel cup washer. The Yamaha parts sheets also doesn't show any plastic washers between the spring and the fork cap. 
 

is this an error on the instructions or am I missing something?

[Ktmmitch]

hi Vtamb81, you are correct, it is our error on instructions, and we will change them today to reflect this.

[Vtamb81]

@Ktmmitch thanks for the quick reply! Just so you’re aware, There’s also a mention of OEM washers in step 3. 

[POLISHADAM82]

Anybody has actual dimensions on these spacers I can make some at work 

[Vegas Rider]

I have a set of there spacers also that are waiting to be installed.  It would really be nice if they (Rally Raid) would do an instructional video on the install, complete step by step  shade tree style.    They sure would sell more of these and if they did the same thing for the open cartridge that would be great too.