Move the Select Switch to the Left side...sort of

[Goldentaco]

The Select switch location on the right hand side is kind of dumb.  While you can operate it and maintain speed, it's kind of clunky and I usually accelerate or decelerate when doing it.  I periodically cycle to the Trip1 to monitor fuel range or to outside temp while I usually leave the display on Ave Mpg.  This all bothered me.  I was bored tonight so made a thing.

 

Wiring diagram shows the Select Switch function Opens the circuit between two wires on a three wire plug that lives under the right hand lobe of the gas tank.  This circuit is Normally Closed and the Select switch opens the circuit to advance the display or is held open to reset the blinking display.  The wires you are working with are the Black/White and Green/White.  These two complete a loop through the Select switch.  My plan was to take one of the wires ( doesn't matter which one) and place a second switch in line with one of the wires so it could also activate the Select switch function.  I chose the Green/White.  

 

It took me about a month to get everything together.  I finally found a NC non latching small weatherproof switch that could be mounted on the left hand controls.  This switch is actually really nice.  It can be wired as NC or NO, comes with a mount and has a nice solid action when pressing.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B082F2JX2S/ref=twister_B07P7V76MM?_encoding=UTF8&th=1

 

Next I knew I wanted a plug and play install so I ordered two 3  pin MT .090 - 2.3mm Male and Female locking connector  kits from Cycle Terminal.

Motorcycle MT .090 Sealed Series - Connector and Terminals

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Sumitomo - HM Sealed(Mounting Bracket type) and MT Sealed type Connectors for .090 - 2.3mm Terminal. These Connector s are used highly on Throttle position sensors, Neutral Switch, Cam and Crank Shaft Position Sensors for GSXR - YZF - CBR - CRF All connectors Come complete with male, female terminals and wire seals. For wire sizes .6 - 1.3mm (16-22...

Set MT090-3 in White.  Comes with everything you need to make the OEM connections on the wiring harness.  I ordered two kits so if I messed up the crimping I had spares. 

 

I also ordered some 5mm Automotive tubing from them too to run the two wires up to the switch.  I used 65mm to make my harness.

PN VW-1 5mm

 

Building the connectors:

The connector I built will be a passthrough for the Yellow and Black/White wires so they will go from a Female connector directly to a Male.  The Green/White wire go up to the switch and back.  For this I used a Black and Blue wire as that's what I had laying around.  The wire size I think is 22awg.  

 

The crimp connectors take a special crimp tool and I already had one.  I used my Waldom W-HT-1921.

https://www.newark.com/gc-electronics/w-ht-1921-p/crimp-tool/dp/31F1049?CMP=KNC-GUSA-GEN-KWL-DSA-tCPATest47-GC-ELECTRONICS&mckv=sgcQXdo14_dc|pcrid|457357399833|plid||kword||match|b|slid||product||pgrid|17246591781|ptaid|dsa-951703443538|&gclid=CjwKCAjw74b7BRA_EiwAF8yHFCmCntfjl6v4RVAb7pcJnF-AQuCMbWYmifOpYhO1AUxaPUkRcmgAvRoCMCUQAvD_BwE

 

 

Strip enough wire back so the insulation sits in the "cup" on the end.  The middle "wings" hold the wire, the end Larger "wings" crimp onto the insulation. 

 

Loading the connector in the tool, place the wings on the opposite side of the male part of the die as seen below.  The connector below is the flat "pin" and is upside down in the picture.  You can barely make out the "Wings" contacting the bottom of the die.

 

 

Finished Wire crimp:

 

Oh and don't forget to put the rubber seals on first:  You'll slide it up and over the end "Wings".

 

Continued below.

 

 

 

[Goldentaco]

Flat pins are in the Female connector and Female pins ready for inserting in the male connector.  Confused?  Typically Male connectors contain Female "Pins" and Female connectors contain Male "Pins".  At least that's how I describe them.

 

Next I added the Black and Blue wires inline with the Green/White wire and up to the switch.  Voila.

 

 

 

 

Edited September 17, 2020 by Goldentaco

[Goldentaco]

Here's a little video of it in action.  I've hit my limit on pics so I will post a couple more when it resets...if it does.

 

 

 

J

[Goldentaco]

Switch is installed in the harness.  It's the only 3pin Triangle under the lobe of the tank.  TOp connector goes to the OEM switch and bottom connector goes to the Display/ECU.

 

J

[Spuzvica]

Kudos for the great mod!! Wish we could find a "nicer" looking NC switch for the left hand side... 

[OU812]

Tidy Job, Thanks for sharing!

[jeeves1275]

That is genius love it, might have a crack at it some day!

 

Why oh why did they put that switch on the right??!!

[Ol'crazy]

Great idea and good job !! Thanks for sharing.

 

Question: Do you think it is possible to do the same with the switch for off-road mode? I hate his position as much as that of the select switch... 

[tenerecanada]

Nicely done! Thanks for the detailed post.

[Goldentaco]

On 9/17/2020 at 3:15 AM, Ol'crazy said:

Great idea and good job !! Thanks for sharing.

 

Question: Do you think it is possible to do the same with the switch for off-road mode? I hate his position as much as that of the select switch... 

That would be more difficult since theABS cancel is integral to the dash display. It would involve de-soldering the OEM “Button” and putting something inline.  It’s listed on the wiring diagram but it’s not something I would be remotely comfortable doing. Also, I can't for the life of me find the "ABS ON/OFF" Switch called out in the wiring diagram so it would take exploratory surgery to identify the circuit.
 

Also, for me I never have ever needed to turn it of. 
 

 

J

Edited September 19, 2020 by Goldentaco

[Ol'crazy]

6 minutes ago, Goldentaco said:

That would be more difficult since theABS cancel is integral to the dash display. It would involve de-soldering the OEM “Button” and putting something inline.  It’s listed on the wiring diagram but it’s not something I would be remotely comfortable doing. 
 

Also, for me I never have ever needed to turn it of. 
 

 

J

 

I already expected it to be more complicated. Thank you anyway 

 

 

[TimmyTheHog]

nice with the mad scientist style of job!

 

Looks legit too!....

 

Going to save this when I get too bored in the garage...which is quite often with this C---D sh!t...

[Engineer]

Many thanks to @goldentaco for working this out.

I've just finished the job.Used a slightly smaller pushbutton switch and made a bracket to attach to the mirror mount.

Works brilliantly.

[Spuzvica]

53 minutes ago, Engineer said:

Many thanks to @goldentaco for working this out.

I've just finished the job.Used a slightly smaller pushbutton switch and made a bracket to attach to the mirror mount.

Works brilliantly.

Can you post a link to the button?

[bth2]

great mod. i find i cant use the switch on the move .

[Engineer]

Not sure how to post a link, but here goes.....

As I'm in the UK, the source of the button and connector posted by @Goldentaco was not the best for me.

I got my button from RS Components, and the connector from Ebay, both in the UK:-

 

RS PRO 1NC Momentary Miniature Push Button Switch, IP67, 13.6 (Dia.)mm, Panel Mount, 32/50/125V ac | RS Components

 

3 Pin For Sumitomo Female Male Plug Connector Motorcycle Yamaha Kawasaki Suzuki

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1x Male + Female Plug. 1x Female plug. 1 x Male plug. Common connector for Yamaha, Suzuki, Kawasaki,Triumph, KTM.etc. (6180-3241) - Female. Whatever the problem, we will stay with it until it is resolved and you are satisfied.

 

Edited September 27, 2020 by Engineer
Wrong item posted

[Spuzvica]

@Goldentaco Do you need to remove the tank to get to the connectors of the switchgear?

[Stephen H]

Great modification and way better on the left side.

All i need is someone who can do it for me as this is way above my skill level

 

[Goldentaco]

6 hours ago, Spuzvica said:

@Goldentaco Do you need to remove the tank to get to the connectors of the switchgear?

No,

 

I did it all with the tank in place.  You'll need to disconnect all those (3 ) plugs in the vicinity.

 

J

[SpankyPineapple]

For people who don't know, the gasket/seal on the sumitomo system should be crimped with the largest of the tabs on the pin.  Thats what keeps the seal in place and prevents it from sliding back up the wire.  There are three sets of tabs.  One for the wire/contact, one for the wire insulation, and then one for the rubber seal.  The crimp tools have a "seal" part for this exact purpose.  You can see in the picture where that seal is crimped.  

 

 

Edited May 14, 2021 by SpankyPineapple
spelling

[Tigerjohn]

Some impressive  farkles here, but beyond my comfort zone!

You'd think, after the years of development & testing Yamaha did before bringing the T7 onto the market, that they'd have spotted the obvious and put the switch on the left! I find it easier to reach over to the up/down buttons on the speedo display  with my left hand than to try to toggle the RH select button while on the move.

[mpatch]

Has anybody tried converting the flash to pass switch to the selector switch?

[Goldentaco]

1 hour ago, mpatch said:

Has anybody tried converting the flash to pass switch to the selector switch?

The selector switch is a normally closed switch.  The flash to pass is normally open.  The switch logic isn't compatible unless you use a relay.  Without digging into the wiring loom it looks like the Flash to pass White/Yellow wire is soldered or crimped to the main harness so not easily reversible.

 

Below #71 is the Selector Switch hard to see but it says

"Free" 0-0 meaning unactuated it's connected or closed.

"Push" 0 0 meaning when you push it, you open the circuit.

 

#76 is the Flash to pass.  

"On" 0-0 is circuit Closed.

"Off" 0 0 is circuit Open.

 

[BLZ2DWL]

Just followed these directions and it works like a charm. Thanks, Taco!