Maximum wattage that can be used by additional devices?

[Vixen]

Hello all!

 

I was wondering, does anyone know what is the maximum wattage that can be used for additional electric devices mounted on a  bike? I have an electrical chain lube, additional lights that eat 100W and when I enable everything my voltage drops to 12.5v on the running engine. Is it still safe?

[TimmyTheHog]

That is with idle or revving up to 5000RPM?

 

I would say do a load & hold test...basically turn everything on and see if the battery drops below 12V within a few moment.

 

And rev the bike up to 5000RPM which is when the bike REALLY charges the battery for like 5~seconds and see if the voltage gets topped off.

 

I do not know the "additional" wattage left. 

[Goldentaco]

Alternator output is 410W @5000rpm.

 

I'm not sure what Wattage is extra but 100W on lights is big considering most are now going to LED's.  I'm guessing yours are not LED.

 

J 

[Vixen]

On 9/29/2020 at 5:57 PM, Goldentaco said:

Alternator output is 410W @5000rpm.

 

I'm not sure what Wattage is extra but 100W on lights is big considering most are now going to LED's.  I'm guessing yours are not LED.

 

J 

They are all LED but I've put 3 spotlights, two 30W and one 40W. 

[Matth]

Thats too much!

[Longhaulpaul]

100 watts should be fine. 
I've run a 90 watt jacket, 30 watts grips, 35 watts heated gloves, GPS, cellphone, and aux LED that pull 20-80 watts. Bike voltage never went below 13.5 when riding with everything on. 
 

[qInvention]

100W in LED aux lights is huge, isn't it ?

[durielk]

I don't have my bike yet, planning stage for all the winter gear.  If we knew what the standard lamp wattage is for the HL, BL, TLight, & running Lights, we could figure out how much really is available.

I'm going full elec or building a secondary heating system with a heat exchanger.  I'm cold blooded and we are headed north.

[DORTx2]

I've got 2 of the brightest led's you can buy and they are 24w each. 100w in leds  is insane.

[Goldentaco]

On 12/24/2020 at 3:58 PM, durielk said:

I don't have my bike yet, planning stage for all the winter gear.  If we knew what the standard lamp wattage is for the HL, BL, TLight, & running Lights, we could figure out how much really is available.

I'm going full elec or building a secondary heating system with a heat exchanger.  I'm cold blooded and we are headed north.

Not necessarily.  What is hard to figure out because it's not published or even in the service manual is the bike electronics required for it to run ( ECU, ABS Pump, Fuel Pump, Dash screen, Ignition system,).  Manual does list the OEM bulbs ( F, R turn sigs 10Wx2 so changing them to LED saves close to 35W)  License plate light 5w.  

 

I'd wager there's at least 200-250W available for use at 5000 rpm.

 

J

[durielk]

When I get my bike I'm going to try this.

Put an amp meter on the battery and see what the amps are charging the battery just after starting with everything I can turned off and noting what is running or ON.  

That would be maximum charging amps output.  I would imagine that amps multiplied by about .6 (60%) of that would be available, riding in cold weather, after you let the bike warm up.  I'm going to add all optional (off during the test) running lights and other off things, etc. loads back in with my heater equipment to not exceed the 60%.

Edited December 28, 2020 by durielk

[alexcfer]

On 12/29/2020 at 6:46 AM, durielk said:

When I get my bike I'm going to try this.

Put an amp meter on the battery and see what the amps are charging the battery just after starting with everything I can turned off and noting what is running or ON.  

That would be maximum charging amps output.  I would imagine that amps multiplied by about .6 (60%) of that would be available, riding in cold weather, after you let the bike warm up.  I'm going to add all optional (off during the test) running lights and other off things, etc. loads back in with my heater equipment to not exceed the 60%.

Not really... that's just how many amps your battery is sucking at that voltage. It will depend on how discharged it is, what voltage the alternator is outputting, etc... but it will be nowhere near the maximum output the alternator can provide.

[durielk]

OK, well do tell us how your going to determine the maximum alternator output, we are all listening.  

I gave up on the Tenere, I got a KTM 790.  I still don't think there are any new ones in the states.

[mebgardner]

On 9/29/2020 at 8:57 AM, Goldentaco said:

Alternator output is 410W @5000rpm.

 

I'm not sure what Wattage is extra but 100W on lights is big considering most are now going to LED's.  I'm guessing yours are not LED.

 

J 

 

Good Information, Thanks.

 

@Goldentaco, can you tell us what type of regulator is used? That is, Parallel (traditional type) or Series Regulator (more modern)?

 

For folks desiring to squeeze out as many additional watts as the system can provide, I suggest the change to a series regulator. Of course, that does not help if the cycle already comes with one. Hence, the question.

 

Edit:

The Yamaha OEM / Shindengen Part Number appears to be FH027AA. I can not find a document that describes the regulator type for this p/n. Shindengen used to publish their data sheets and apparently no longer does that, oh well.

 

Not many folk interested in replacing it anyway (no retrofit kits offered on AliExpress for instance), the OEM electrical system seems to be pretty robust on this cycle.

Edited August 30, 2022 by mebgardner
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[Goldentaco]

10 hours ago, mebgardner said:

 

Good Information, Thanks.

 

@Goldentaco, can you tell us what type of regulator is used? That is, Parallel (traditional type) or Series Regulator (more modern)?

 

For folks desiring to squeeze out as many additional watts as the system can provide, I suggest the change to a series regulator. Of course, that does not help if the cycle already comes with one. Hence, the question.

 

Edit:

The Yamaha OEM / Shindengen Part Number appears to be FH027AA. I can not find a document that describes the regulator type for this p/n. Shindengen used to publish their data sheets and apparently no longer does that, oh well.

 

Not many folk interested in replacing it anyway (no retrofit kits offered on AliExpress for instance), the OEM electrical system seems to be pretty robust on this cycle.

Don't know and I'm not too concerned about it.  Service manual only says to check Regulator by measuring battery voltage at 5k rpm.  If it's above 14v it's good.

[mebgardner]

11 hours ago, Goldentaco said:

Don't know and I'm not too concerned about it.  Service manual only says to check Regulator by measuring battery voltage at 5k rpm.  If it's above 14v it's good.

Yup, apparently this cycle has ample "excess" (over what is needed for the cycle to function) wattage for accessories. Nothing to be concerned about, which is good!