Jump to content
Yamaha Tenere 700 Forum
  • 0

Cat delete


luke2152
 Share

Question

Has anyone managed to remove the honeycomb from the stock catalytic converter? Mainly because it runs really hot (boot melting, fire risk and just can't be good for it suddenly being quenched in cold water) but also a little bit more power to be gained when remapped. I could get an after market header but I doubt the cost justifies the benefit.

 

Because of the slight bend in the pipe the honeycomb is a bit hard to get at. I'd probably drill lots of holes in it then try to smash the rest of it out and then vacuum all the pieces out.  I don't want to end up with half of it left in though.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

17 answers to this question

Recommended Posts

  • 0
  • Premium Member

This may not be the answer you're looking for, but honestly, I was in the same spot as you, and just decided to change out the header with a dominator (made in Poland) header (its very affordable).  Its a direct replacement, its lighter, very very easy swap, and it has the o2 sensor spot in the stock location so its 100% direct swap. 

 

The job, especially if keeping the stock muffer should take you all of 30 minutes. 

You probably already know, looking at the headers, its easily removable with out pulling any extra hardware off the bike (you don't have to unplug the o2 sensor from the harness, you don't have to pull the radiator etc etc)

 

Tazmool

  • Like 3
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 0
29 minutes ago, Tazmool said:

This may not be the answer you're looking for, but honestly, I was in the same spot as you, and just decided to change out the header with a dominator (made in Poland) header (its very affordable).  Its a direct replacement, its lighter, very very easy swap, and it has the o2 sensor spot in the stock location so its 100% direct swap. 

 

The job, especially if keeping the stock muffer should take you all of 30 minutes. 

You probably already know, looking at the headers, its easily removable with out pulling any extra hardware off the bike (you don't have to unplug the o2 sensor from the harness, you don't have to pull the radiator etc etc)

 

Tazmool

Do you have any pictures of the headers?

Are you happy with the quality and what fuel management are you running? 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 0
2 hours ago, Aleksandar13 said:

Do you have any pictures of the headers?

Are you happy with the quality and what fuel management are you running? 

There you go Aleks😜. That's what you need. 2.5kg lighter. Splash the cash

IMG_20201102_125514.jpg

Edited by Rich TT
  • Like 1
  • Haha 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 0
21 minutes ago, Rich TT said:

There you go Aleks😜. That's what you need. 2.5kg lighter. Splash the cash

IMG_20201102_125514.jpg

That is actually true I should get these and get it sorted with 🤣👌

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 0
  • Premium Member

I am happy with the quality of the headers, and I had my T7 ecu programmed by 2wdw (which is worth it even with a stock bike) with just a header swap, you can probably get away with no changes to the fueling. 

 

Only thing I'm not crazy about is that the retaining springs are installed on the bottom of the header (at least they were on mine, I think this was changed later) which interfered with the skid plate I had installed, so I went back to the OEM skid plate, which easily clears. 

 

Tazmool

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 0

To answer my own question...the stock cat is much hardier than I expected. I drilled it multiple times and bashed various pipes and tyre levers in there and still only got about a quarter of it out. Have ordered a black widow header now.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 0

I have removed the cat on two S10's. I cut the pipe completely  in half through the center of the cat, removed the converter material (wear a mask, it's unhealthy stuff) and had a local shop re weld the pipe. Just make sure to grind in some reference marks on the pipe before you cut it so it can be realigned. Use at least two reference marks 180 degrees apart and don't make them similar so there is no doubt how the pipe gets aligned. It's a nice easy mod that not only helps the bike run cooler and breathe  little easier but I have also found that it deepens the sound of the exhaust as well. For racing purposes only, of course.

  • Like 1
  • Haha 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 0
2 hours ago, luke2152 said:

To answer my own question...the stock cat is much hardier than I expected. I drilled it multiple times and bashed various pipes and tyre levers in there and still only got about a quarter of it out. Have ordered a black widow header now.

That's too bad to hear that. I've been think a little more and more about trying this. I was hoping to hear someone's success story first. Which end is it closest to that you went in from? Did you (maybe more like "can you") take some drill bits to it? 

 

 

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 0

I was interested in gutting the cat also for “racing purposes only”. chatted with 2 wheel dyno about it before sending them my ECU. Their response was.

There is another few horsepower on the table with aftermarket headers. Just gutting the cat creates some weird airflow effects, so we would recommend installing Dominator, Akra, etc headers instead! 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 0
On 11/21/2020 at 11:44 PM, DT675 said:

That's too bad to hear that. I've been think a little more and more about trying this. I was hoping to hear someone's success story first. Which end is it closest to that you went in from? Did you (maybe more like "can you") take some drill bits to it? 

 

 

So because of the angle you only have access for drilling to about 1/3 of it. I was hoping that once I'd removed that bit it would create space to smash the rest of it out. In fairness I was using masonry bits as I couldn't get 400mm long hss bits which may have made a difference (the masonry bits kind of bashed their way into the same hole but I still got that 1/3 out ok and then could't get the rest of it to budge).

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 0

Now I have a set of black widow headers in. Good product. Had to remove a lot of the top mounting bar on my heed bash plate to clear them. But since it bolts to the engine that's not a bad thing as I don't want to transmit much force there anyway.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 0

Well, I managed to cut my pipe in half and pull the cat. It's not possible to chunk away at it without cutting in my opinion. Was a real fight to get it out even with easy access. Going to try it with the stock muffler and a chinesium one once i get my ecu back from 2wdw. 

20201230_123232_HDR.jpg

Edited by Tooph
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 0

Has anyone done this without remapping? I would like to retain stock mapping until my warranty is up, and replace the header with an aftermarket one, keeping my stock header intact to put back on for the same reason.. However, if it’s not going to run well I’ll just leave it alone until after warranty is expired.

Edited by Camstyn
  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 0
8 hours ago, Camstyn said:

Has anyone done this without remapping? I would like to retain stock mapping until my warranty is up, and replace the header with an aftermarket one, keeping my stock header intact to put back on for the same reason.. However, if it’s not going to run well I’ll just leave it alone until after warranty is expired.

From what I've read, it is fine (albeit a little sooty) if you run stock but with aftermarket header, or sock header with aftermarket slip on. You will start running a bit more lean with both though. At that point it's best to reflash. So for me, I'm going to keep the cat and swap the muffler pipe until I have more time to do a total reflash + new header.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 0
On 11/21/2020 at 11:40 PM, luke2152 said:

To answer my own question...the stock cat is much hardier than I expected. I drilled it multiple times and bashed various pipes and tyre levers in there and still only got about a quarter of it out. Have ordered a black widow header now.

Is the catalytic converter ceramic or metallic on T7?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share

Our Friends

Tenere across the USA

Tenere 700 Forum. We are just Tenere 700 owners and fans

Tenere700.net is not affiliated with Yamaha Motor Co and any opinions expressed on this website are solely those of ea individual author and do not represent Yamaha Motor Co or Tenere700.net .

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.