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Rally Raid Suspension, Rider + Mods Weight?


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This is primarily directed towards Ktmmitch, but would welcome constructive correction.


Looking at upgrading T7’s suspension, And being a huge fan of what Rally Raid’s Lvl2 kit did to my CB500X, I have been watching RR’s work on the T7.


But I keep seeing people saying “I weigh XX Kg/lbs and spring #Y worked great for me!”,  Which strikes me as A great starting point! …  If all parties are riding a stock bike?  


Surely the weight of any accessories should be added in?


I did not weigh these and my Google-Fu may have failed me, So if anyone knows better please correct my weights!

                                                                            lbs    /     Kg
SW-Motech - Lower Crashbars  -   12.63  /   5.73
   “          “         - Centre Stand         -   10.4    /   4.72
Barkbusters T7 kit + Storm           -     3.5    /   1.59
Rally Raid  -   Side Racks                -     7.2    /   3.3        (Don't have yet,  was waiting to make 1 big order to save on customs fees)


So I’ve adding around                    -  33.73   /   15.3      (Bugger me does it add up fast!)


I weigh in at 78kg (172lbs) at worst (I prefer less but don’t we all!  and I’ll lose 5-6Kg in the spring when I can hike around without freezing my arse off! ).  Or 84Kg (185lbs) in full gear.  So my riding weight should be between 78Kg and 84Kg


Added up extras plus me  =  93Kg - 99Kg  (205-218lbs),  before adding on camping gear/tools etc.  AKA way over what the stock spring was designed for!


Have been looking at RR’s spring upgrade,  And leaning towards a 20mm lowering link so -10%.  As I understand it the rate should be around.


85N/mm  (80?) 85-135Kg   or  (72?) 76.5-121.5Kg  with 20mm lowering link


90N/mm  (90?) 95-145Kg   or  (81?) 85.5-130.5Kg  with 20mm lowering link


RR’s site says the 90N/mm is for a rider up to 95Kg.  Looking at these numbers the 90N/mm without the 20mm lowering link may be a little stiff when I lose some weight and/or ride in less than full gear?  Or would I just be running with little to no preload (the best place to be?)?


As for the front,  looking at RR’s open cartridge kit.  Was originally going to go with the 6.0Nm,  but now wondering if the 6.4Nm would suit my weight better?


At stock height it would seem the 90N/mm spring and 6.4 forks would balance out well ( same or at least similarly slightly stiff at my lightest load?)


With 20mm lowering links,  would the 90/6.4 combo unbalance the bike?  Thinking mainly about when loaded for a trip,  aka too much crap on the back ( I know,  I know,  and I’m working on it!  But I still think I want it all on a longer trip!?)


Sorry for the size of this post,  but I didn’t find this info around so thought I’d ask,  and maybe help someone else while at it?

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If it helps,

I have the 6.4 fork springs and the 95 rear spring. I weigh 215 without gear, and added crash bars, camel skid plate, and a few other extras. My sag was right on with stock settings. My gear weighs more than yours though I think about 25 lbs. 


they include spacers and you can add preload on the shock and fork, so if you are a touch under on the forks you can add a small spacer or preload or both and be right on.


I think your numbers are in the ballpark though. 


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@SF11, for what it's worth, my starting point for figuring out front and rear changes was that I weigh about 85 kg without gear.

I went with a 90 Nm shock spring and 1 or 2 clicks for 30% sag.

RR suggested 6.0 fork springs with the open cartridge kit if I decide to go that route. I'm currently running the RR preload adjuster caps with 2 mm spacers and stock cartridges.

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Preload knob is just for that, to adjust to variable loads.  I'm pretty sure the 85Nm would give correct sag for you with an unloaded bike. You have 20 clicks of preload to adjust as you load the bike.


Front springs are 5.7Nm stock if I'm not mistaken. You can go up to 6.0 or ad 5mm preload washers to the stock springs.

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I think generally folks recommend that you spring the bike for its most common load. That is more difficult if you ride it solo with no luggage and 2 up with 200 lbs of luggage, in that case a string would be a compromise either way.


My bike is spring for my weight plus gear plus the minimum luggage I carry - like tire repair tools and rain gear, things like that. I have sag set almost perfectly with a few clicks of preload. If i then decide to carry my camping stuff, or my daughter, I know that I have enough clicks in the preload to accommodate that. 


My 70% of riding is just me and the minimal gear for day rides,  25% is full load camping and 5% riding with my kiddo. 



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I weigh 200 lbs.


90nm in the rear, 8-10 clicks in for perfect sag.


RR open fork kit on its way in the mail. Got both 6.4 and 6.0 springs on order (John was nice enough to send both, since  I was between weights - now thats customer service!).


Bike is stripped and as light as possible, usually ride alone with minimal stuff.



Edited by JayD
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Stock shock is out of my bike now.

Just measured it .

Total preload adjustment is 10mm or 403 thousands of an inch.

Less than half an inch.

You best have it close to where you want it on ride height between loaded for the day trip and a two Week tour or you are not going to see it.

   I ordered a shock without HPL for this reason.

Torrington bearing should make it adjustable without tools and more adjustability.

  I mentioned to the shop that a hydraulic preload adjuster is the answer to a question I’ve not asked.

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