Remove the blow on re-acceleration

[Black_T7]

Hello,

 

I think this question has already been asked but I can't find the posts that talk about it ... So i'm sorry 

 

I'm looking for a way to get rid of the go-around jerk that occurs when you turn the throttle slightly, which is really annoying and spoils the driving pleasure a bit.

 

How to do ?

 

Is it due to the fuel cut when decelerating?

An adjustment of the throttle grip?

Fit a short pull throttle grip?

 

Have a lovely day everybody

 

Marco

 

PS : i'm french so sorry for my very bad English

[Aleksandar13]

Marco, start by removing the slack from the cable.. Free and it does help a lot... If you are not happy with that then you'll need a remap to get rid of it completely. 

Aleks 

[Alan M]

I think a remap is the answer to get rid of the fuel cut. I reduced the throttle free play to zero but never noticed any improvement to be honest.

[Black_T7]

Do you have a link to removing the slack from the cable ?

 

Hogan, I just arrived at only 1000kms so I drove in a very cool way, I never exceeded 5000 trs (YAMAHA recommendation) so I ride really very very cool! This feeling is very unpleasant, especially on the gas line, which is why I am looking for a solution to overcome this problem. I think I will go through an ECU flash so is the fuel cut off that is causing this problem?

[Firebolter]

Spend the 240 bucks and send your ECU in and get it re-mapped. It will get rid of the injector cut off and drop the fan temp so the engine doesn't get so hot. They adjust the timing curve to maximize power across the powerband. I am very happy with 2wheeldynoworks flash service. Good stuff-

 

You will need to get a ODBII reader and cable so you can reset the MIL light as anytime you remove the ECU, it will throw a code. You can get the Yamaha 4pin ODBII cable from Amazon for 15 bucks and any ODBII reader. Nice because now you can use this to reset the service light when it goes off.

 

Sorry! Something went wrong!

 

 

 

Edited May 24, 2021 by Firebolter

[WalterT]

In case you have heated grips: check whether they are glued on properly. If not enough glue was applied or was applied incorrectly, the throttle grip may rotate, giving exactly that experience. I've had the same issue, and this was the cause and solution. 

After that I adjusted the cable and got the remap anyway ;-).

[Black_T7]

3 hours ago, Firebolter said:

Spend the 240 bucks and send your ECU in and get it re-mapped. It will get rid of the injector cut off and drop the fan temp so the engine doesn't get so hot. They adjust the timing curve to maximize power across the powerband. I am very happy with 2wheeldynoworks flash service. Good stuff-

 

You will need to get a ODBII reader and cable so you can reset the MIL light as anytime you remove the ECU, it will throw a code. You can get the Yamaha 4pin ODBII cable from Amazon for 15 bucks and any ODBII reader. Nice because now you can use this to reset the service light when it goes off.

 

Sorry! Something went wrong!

 

 

 

 

I will fit an arrow titanium exhaust so I will go through an ECU flash, I read a lot of positive feedback on 2WD but I am in France I will have it done by NRbike I have the ODB II cable and an ODB II reader but I did not try to connect it to the motorcycle, I had just bought for the ECU flash

 

2 hours ago, WalterT said:

In case you have heated grips: check whether they are glued on properly. If not enough glue was applied or was applied incorrectly, the throttle grip may rotate, giving exactly that experience. I've had the same issue, and this was the cause and solution. 

After that I adjusted the cable and got the remap anyway ;-).

 

I don't have heated grips, it's planned for next winter I have OEM yamaha grips for the moment

[Alan M]

23 hours ago, Hogan said:

I find it easy to mitigate the issue by avoiding maximum engine braking. Anticipating the flow of traffic so as to coast at the neutral throttle position rather then constantly jerking between engine braking and coasting, timing braking and gear changes to coincide so as to take advantage of the clutch to smooth the transition, or if all else fails, just slip the clutch to smooth out the transition.

 

I ride every day. Early in the morning with no traffic, and in the afternoon with traffic. I don't think it's an especially hard task to ride the stock bike smoothly.

 

 

The riding conditions you’re describing is not where the issue is for me.

 

It’s exiting slow speed corners or roundabouts on a trailing throttle and it’s almost impossible to roll the throttle on without the jerky engine response. Not pleasant on wet, slick roads.

 

Agreed you can slip the clutch but it’s not an old 2T or dirt bike, it’s the 21st century and Yamaha should have done a better job in this area.

Edited May 25, 2021 by Alan M
🙂

[Landshark]

5 hours ago, Alan M said:

The riding conditions you’re describing is not where the issue is for me.

 

It’s exiting slow speed corners or roundabouts on a trailing throttle and it’s almost impossible to roll the throttle on without the jerky engine response. Not pleasant on wet, slick roads.

 

Agreed you can slip the clutch but it’s not an old 2T or dirt bike, it’s the 21st century and Yamaha should have done a better job in this area.

 

What about warranty, if there is any remaining?  My 21 T7 doesn't do that at all.  Maybe Yamaha should replace or remap your ECU if that's where the problem lies.  I hope you get this solved.  I too like complete control over the ride and quickly fix anything that gets in the way of a great ride experience.  Let us know how this works out.  Thanks @Alan M.

[Alan M]

11 minutes ago, Landshark said:

 

What about warranty, if there is any remaining?  My 21 T7 doesn't do that at all.  Maybe Yamaha should replace or remap your ECU if that's where the problem lies.  I hope you get this solved.  I too like complete control over the ride and quickly fix anything that gets in the way of a great ride experience.  Let us know how this works out.  Thanks @Alan M.

The plan is to have it mapped out but I haven’t had a chance of late.

 

 I ride with another two euro 4 T7 owners. One reckons it’s not too bad the other finds it annoying. Not an issue off road but if a remap can improve things then I’m happy to give it a go.

[norei]

"Do you have a link to removing the slack from the cable ?  ..."

 

Some say it's bad, some say it's much better than on some other modern bikes.... everyone feels it differently.

 

The fact is that the throttle grip on most T700s has axial and also radial play on the handlebars. In conjunction with the rather undefined timing of the throttle application with "correctly" adjusted throttle play and the mapping, which is not particularly good for this range (change from push to pull operation), this leads to a jerky throttle response.

 

Have a look at this thread:

 

In my personal experience, these simple modifications in conjunction with the almost complete elimination of the idle travel in the throttle cable lead to a much more controllable throttle response.

As far as you ask for links regarding the elimination of the throttle cable play, I can unfortunately not help you; I have easily adjusted the play with the help of the adjusting screw at the lower end of the throttle cable (loosen the lock nut, loosen the stop nut a little, tighten the lock nut again - and so on).

 

Greetings Norbert

 

 

Edited May 25, 2021 by norei

[Black_T7]

1 hour ago, norei said:

"Do you have a link to removing the slack from the cable ?  ..."

 

Some say it's bad, some say it's much better than on some other modern bikes.... everyone feels it differently.

 

The fact is that the throttle grip on most T700s has axial and also radial play on the handlebars. In conjunction with the rather undefined timing of the throttle application with "correctly" adjusted throttle play and the mapping, which is not particularly good for this range (change from push to pull operation), this leads to a jerky throttle response.

 

Have a look at this thread:

 

In my personal experience, these simple modifications in conjunction with the almost complete elimination of the idle travel in the throttle cable lead to a much more controllable throttle response.

As far as you ask for links regarding the elimination of the throttle cable play, I can unfortunately not help you; I have easily adjusted the play with the help of the adjusting screw at the lower end of the throttle cable (loosen the lock nut, loosen the stop nut a little, tighten the lock nut again - and so on).

 

Greetings Norbert

 

 

Thanks Norbert

 

Monday i have the first revision of 1000 kms, i will talk to the dealer to this problem.

[norei]

@ Black_T7: I did find a post on throttle adjustment in a German forum: (see there answers #3 and #5).

Gasspiel - Ténéré 700 - YAMAHA TENERE FORUM

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Gasspiel - Ténéré 700 - YAMAHA TENERE FORUM

Greetings Norbert

[powder]

This is an old topic as you said. Very annoying on city riding or slow technical terrain. It jerks heavily when you get back on gas after deceleration. 

 

Only way to get rid of it is a remap and remove the fuel cut off in decel.

[gone2seed]

Flash the ecu. Adjust free play in throttle. Check for excessive slack in drive chain.

 Sorry guys. I’m at a loss. I went for a ride yesterday and could not see the issue. I’m sure there must be variances from bike to bike.

   The CP2 in our bikes pulls like a tractor down low. Is the on/off  throttle response better if you go into  the corner a gear lower at higher RPM’s? 

   ( Mine is stock with only the throttle free play adjusted.)

[Firebolter]

1 hour ago, gone2seed said:

Flash the ecu. Adjust free play in throttle. Check for excessive slack in drive chain.

 Sorry guys. I’m at a loss. I went for a ride yesterday and could not see the issue. I’m sure there must be variances from bike to bike.

   The CP2 in our bikes pulls like a tractor down low. Is the on/off  throttle response better if you go into  the corner a gear lower at higher RPM’s? 

   ( Mine is stock with only the throttle free play adjusted.)

It is more prevalent close to and off idle when you are slow riding in 1st or 2nd gear. It has a definite on/off feeling of the power. I felt it in the rocks the most when I was slow speed working through a rock garden. On the road, yes, it you are on the gas and moving along and then chop the throttle to enter a turn, you will feel the sudden slowing and front end dive some as you enter the turn when the injectors cut out. And I mean you will feel it more so than "normal" engine braking. This is not a T7 thing per say, this is a EPA thing an how manufacturers are forced to map for pollution considerations. 

 

As mentioned, the ONLY way to fix this is a re-map. Also you'll get lower engine temps as the fans are set to come on earlier (as they should).

 

If you are a casual rider who spends the majority of your time on the roads, commuting or easy dual sporting on forrest roads and such, you will not appreciate this as much as the guy who rides in the trails and does more slow speed technical riding. But no matter where/how you ride, a re-map is better for the longevity of the motor  in addition to the engine "running" better. 

Edited May 27, 2021 by Firebolter

[h1seoul]

Never experienced this but the first thing I did was flash my ECU taking advantage of the black friday sale.  good to know that there is a difference in performance and experience 

[MikeCMP]

Question on adjusting the free play in the throttle, wanted to ask before I messed with it. 

 

Can you spin the top adjusters once the nuts are loose? I "assume" you can, but i was concerned that the metal bit on the end of the cable didn't rotate, which would require the whole cable to spin. had another bike like that were it was a pain and if its that annoying I won't bother

 

Mke

[Stevey3737]

yes once the jam nut is cracked it will turn and spin on the cable