Vibration help.

[jdk2man]

Marky Mark doesn't have a clue. There ain't nothing good about the vibrations.

I just switched to Pro taper adventure bars which are awesome,  but the vibration is unreal. 

Even just touching the brake lever feels like an electric shock.  Like those buzzers you would put in your hand to scare people when you shake. 

Any thoughts on how to mitigate it?

Didn't have it this bad with the stock bars.

And it is engine vibration. Ot stops when I quit reving and coast.

Thanks a bunch. 

 

[Hibobb]

From the internet (use at your own risk)

 

At the end of your handlebars are nothing but Bar End Weights or weight balancers (yes, they are heavyish). What they actually do is that they make sure the bike's handlebar does not vibrate due to the resonance that occurs right from the moment when the engine of motorbike starts.

 

What is a Marky Mark?

Edited June 6, 2021 by Hibobb

[jdk2man]

From what I noticed from my trip today. lots of hwy. The vibration on exist when in gear. if I am cruising along, vibration is bad, pull in the clutch, but still rev'd, its pretty much gone.

Does the silicone in the bars really help? If so, what type of silicone?

[mpatch]

They used to make something called bar snake or something like that.
Was basically some type of rubber hose looking stuff that you put into the bars. 
 

[Goldentaco]

12 hours ago, Hibobb said:

 

What is a Marky Mark?

Before he was Mark Wahlberg he was...

 

 

J

[advrallymoto]

Hmm, that's weird.  I just switched to protaper adventures last week and went on my first long-ish ride yesterday.  I didn't notice anything unusual and if I were guessing I'd say it was better than before.  But I used progrip 714 grips which are cushy.  

[jdk2man]

4 minutes ago, advrallymoto said:

Hmm, that's weird.  I just switched to protaper adventures last week and went on my first long-ish ride yesterday.  I didn't notice anything unusual and if I were guessing I'd say it was better than before.  But I used progrip 714 grips which are cushy.  

I may need to switch grips. I have some heated,  but haven't been to impressed with them.  I think I'll just switch to heated gloves.  I have 2 pair.

Are the 714 grips good?

[advrallymoto]

Just now, jdk2man said:

I may need to switch grips. I have some heated,  but haven't been to impressed with them.  I think I'll just switch to heated gloves.  I have 2 pair.

Are the 714 grips good?

 

They're my favorites.  I've had them on several bikes.  They're a little larger so they help with hand cramping and because of being cushy they tend to reduce vibrations.  I also added a rally raid top bar clamp, not sure if that would affect things much though.  

[h1seoul]

4 hours ago, jdk2man said:

I may need to switch grips. I have some heated,  but haven't been to impressed with them.  I think I'll just switch to heated gloves.  I have 2 pair.

Are the 714 grips good?

how about installing a pair of grip puppies before you ditch the heated grips altogether?  it is a cheap solution. 

[Canzvt]

So, a couple of questions. What RPM does it vibrate most at in gear? Does it vibrate more if accelerating, or at a constant speed? You mentioned that it is not road speed dependent, but drive dependent, and does it vibrate excessively when stopped but held at that RPM? If it only does it in gear at a constant road speed, I would be checking into your driveline. Front sprocket wear, sprocket nut torque (probably not this, as it should be lock tabbed, but...), rear sprocket, rear sprocket nut torque, chain for kinks/tight spots and finally tires. What tires are you running? The stock Pirelli's? If so, get rid of them (for various reasons) and try it with a continuous center tread tire if you are not a serious dirt rider.

 

Bar end weights are designed to dampen a known frequency of vibration over a relatively small range of frequencies. If removed, or the bars changed, the source frequency is likely still there, and depending upon the bar geometry might be AMPLIFIED more than the stock bars. Think of your bars as tuning forks...the longer the bar, the lower the frequency needed to excite the vibration. The lighter the bar, the higher the frequency, etc. This can be dampened out by filling the bars with silicone, as that will dampen all frequencies, but it may only make it marginally better, and it will add weight.

[Hibobb]

9 hours ago, Goldentaco said:

Before he was Mark Wahlberg he was...

 

 

J

No wonder I didn't know.... 

[jdk2man]

1 hour ago, Canzvt said:

So, a couple of questions. What RPM does it vibrate most at in gear? Does it vibrate more if accelerating, or at a constant speed? You mentioned that it is not road speed dependent, but drive dependent, and does it vibrate excessively when stopped but held at that RPM? If it only does it in gear at a constant road speed, I would be checking into your driveline. Front sprocket wear, sprocket nut torque (probably not this, as it should be lock tabbed, but...), rear sprocket, rear sprocket nut torque, chain for kinks/tight spots and finally tires. What tires are you running? The stock Pirelli's? If so, get rid of them (for various reasons) and try it with a continuous center tread tire if you are not a serious dirt rider.

 

Bar end weights are designed to dampen a known frequency of vibration over a relatively small range of frequencies. If removed, or the bars changed, the source frequency is likely still there, and depending upon the bar geometry might be AMPLIFIED more than the stock bars. Think of your bars as tuning forks...the longer the bar, the lower the frequency needed to excite the vibration. The lighter the bar, the higher the frequency, etc. This can be dampened out by filling the bars with silicone, as that will dampen all frequencies, but it may only make it marginally better, and it will add weight.

Thanks for taking the time. 

It feels like it's at most ranges 3000+ 

Are not the chain, tires, sprockets, etc..still moving when I'm coasting?

Wouldn't the vibration still be there? 

 

And it galena when I'm a constant rpm. But as soon as I pull in the clutch,  it stops.

I only have the stock back tire. Which I will replace this week since my ecu is being flashed. 

I hope nothing is worn out, I only have around 900 miles. 

 

 

[Canzvt]

So why I ask if the bike is under power rather than just moving, is that under power, all driveline components are under some type of stress including the rear tire, instead of just moving. It CAN highlight some driveline component issues. Since your bike only has 900 miles, I would look squarely at the rear tire. There have been A LOT of complaints with these tires on the N/A bikes, myself included.

[jdk2man]

32 minutes ago, Canzvt said:

So why I ask if the bike is under power rather than just moving, is that under power, all driveline components are under some type of stress including the rear tire, instead of just moving. It CAN highlight some driveline component issues. Since your bike only has 900 miles, I would look squarely at the rear tire. There have been A LOT of complaints with these tires on the N/A bikes, myself included.

My front tire wobbled so bad I replaced it immediately.  The rear,  I bought the new one,  just haven't changed it yet.  Going to do the tubeless conversion when I do. 

[Texerman]

I'm trying to solve the vibration issue too.  It is vibrating bad enough that my hands are numb in 20 kms or so.   Seems to be bad right though the rpm range. When riding  I pull the clutch in and it is smooth as can be.  Sitting on the center stand in neutral the vibrations are still there and increase with rpm so it definitely seems to be motor related.