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T700NB
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Hello, looking for some help.  About three times in the last year my battery has run dead when I have gone about a week without starting my bike.  I have the Yamaha grip warmers that are wired to the extra aux plug on the right side which I believe is only active when the ignition is on.  The only other accessories I have are a quad lock wireless charging base and a dual USB outlet with voltmeter (ironically) on the right side opposite the stock DC plug, both I wired directly to the battery.  These both have a very small led light to indicate they are functioning which is on all the time, key or no key.  I am a complete amateur with anything mechanical especially electrical but I did wire these all up myself.  Just wondering if its possible that these two tiny LEDs would be enough to drain the battery in a week??  Is there somewhere else I should look?  Is there a way to get around having these wired direct to battery if they are the likely cause??  Thanks for any help.

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All the connectors, wiring looms and stuff with the correct plugs can be found here:

 

I added a Rowe PDM60 to my bike to add anything I need. I did use the 3 wire plug under the right side and wired my GPS to the +/- and the third wire is a trigger, so I ran than wire back to the PDM and then hooked the PDM +/-  to the battery. Now I have all the protected power I need and no more drain. I still have the left side plug too but was gonna use that for Aux light if/when I get them. Heated gear or other accessories I will run off the PDM. The PDM mounts right under the frame cross brace behind the battery, out of the way and protected! No more fuses, if a circuit trips, find the short/issue and correct it then turn the key off/on and it resets the PDM breaker. Simple and easy-

 

 

Look at the second plug down, that is the one for the right side 3 wire plug on the stock harness-

 

Edited by Firebolter
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Click on the Eastern Beaver Link above. Click "Other Stuff. Second item down is the "Power Leads for Aux Light Connector (DIY aux lights etc)". That cable will plug directly into the existing spare connector under your right hand or left hand side panel (pull a panel off tonight and have a look around, take some pictures, it will help us walk you through this). You'll have to connect your charger cable to the loose wires on the Eastern Beaver cable. Solder and shrink tube or if you dont have a soldering iron you can buy shrink wrap tube connectors that have solder in them and can be done just by using a heat gun. Another layer of shrink wrap over those and you're all set. 

 

You say you have very little DIY wiring experience but I assure you this is super simple. The only thing I'm unsure of is the colour coding on the Eastern Beaver wires, maybe someone else can chime in? I'm also pretty sure their description is wrong. On the three pin connector under the fairing two wires are switched hot and the third is the ground, correct? There is not one switched wire and one "always hot" wire.

 

Something like this for making your connections:

 

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Feed them using a relay so they are only live when the key is on.  You will need to find a trigger wire for the relay.

Search around and you can find a wiring diagram.  Simple relay cost only a few dollars.

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My experience with wireless charging pads is they always draw some current even when not charging anything. 

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Exactly the same symptom and accessories, plus wired directly to battery.  Yesterday flat battery!  We are living in a parallel universe!  There is a button/switch on the back of the Quadlock wireless charger that turns off the LED/power but as above I read it may still draw a small amount.  I'm using my battery charger/tender now to keep the volts up!  Will be keeping an eye on things, it's been sluggish on turn over for months, even before I wired up the accessories so I may have a faulty battery?  However my commute has substantially shortened since January and the bike is getting shorter runs, I'm about to move home and back to longer rides ... this I think will help.

Edited by RIDER GUIDER
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YouTube - RIDER GUIDER - check out my T7 playlist and say hello 😀 

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28 minutes ago, RIDER GUIDER said:

Exactly the same symptom and accessories, plus wired directly to battery.  Yesterday flat battery!  We are living in a parallel universe!  There is a button/switch on the back of the Quadlock wireless charger that turns off the LED/power but as above I read it may still draw a small amount.  I'm using my battery charger/tender now to keep the volts up!  Will be keeping an eye on things, it's been sluggish on turn over for months, even before I wired up the accessories so I may have a faulty battery?  However my commute has substantially shortened since January and the bike is getting shorter runs, I'm about to move home and back to longer rides ... this I think will help.

Lol!  I didn’t know about the switch. Will look for that as short term erm fix but as above will try to wire to ignition if I can figure out...

 

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8 hours ago, mpatch said:

My experience with wireless charging pads is they always draw some current even when not charging anything. 

^Didnt realize that at all, thanks!

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I metered my wireless charger i use and it’s draw about 30ma when not charging. According to my math after 7-10 days it will kill my bike battery enough that it might not have enough juice left to start the bike. 

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On 6/24/2021 at 11:12 AM, mpatch said:

My experience with wireless charging pads is they always draw some current even when not charging anything. 

I contacted Quadlock and they said with the power on, it will draw 12ma, with the power button off, 6ma.  

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On 6/24/2021 at 7:48 PM, T700NB said:

Lol!  I didn’t know about the switch. Will look for that as short term erm fix but as above will try to wire to ignition if I can figure out...

 

Did you come up with a solution to avoid any draw on your battery?

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2 hours ago, roygilbo said:

Did you come up with a solution to avoid any draw on your battery?

The solution would be to wire them to the one of  accessory plugs that Yamaha provided under the left and right side panels. Those accessory plugs are only powered when the key is on.

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3 hours ago, Liquidape said:

The solution would be to wire them to the one of  accessory plugs that Yamaha provided under the left and right side panels. Those accessory plugs are only powered when the key is on.

^This. Or as @williestreetalready mentioned, use the Yamaha accessory plug positive wires to fire a 12v relay and run the wire that you connected straight to the battery through this new relay. 

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I got out my crayons. Make sure you're fusing the positive lead that you installed directly to your battery correctly. Don't blame me if your bike catches fire and please chime in anyone if you see something wrong here. 
 

*EDIT* This setup is only necessary if you’ve used up your connectors for other accessories and want to add more loads that are switched off of the ignition. If you haven’t yet, just use the spare accessory and auxiliary connectors under the fairings to power your chargers as stated by @Liquidape

193708608_FridgeArt.thumb.png.68a3b4a7926e698a86ad1661f006b92c.png

Edited by Samm
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3 hours ago, Samm said:

I got out my crayons. Make sure you're fusing the positive lead that you installed directly to your battery correctly. If you want to make things really neat you can source out a connector to plug into the Yamaha connectors under your fairings and use that cable to power the relay. The connectors have been discussed at length somewhere on the forum. Don't blame me if your bike catches fire and please chime in anyone if you see something wrong here. 

193708608_FridgeArt.thumb.png.68a3b4a7926e698a86ad1661f006b92c.png

There is no need for a relay if you use the connectors under the front panels as long as the draw connected to them is less than what they are rated for.   Those connectors are switched ( via relay ) already.  The  two 3 pin connectors share a 10 amp fuse.  The two 2 pin connectors ( one used by the cigarette lighter jack on the dash ) share a 2 amp fuse. 
 

Just get the correct connectors to plug in to the jacks that Yamaha provided and for 99 % of the use cases you don’t need  to run additional wires up to the front from the battery. 
 

The only exception would be heated gear which I would run direct from the battery on a fused connection. 

Edited by Liquidape
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7 hours ago, Liquidape said:

There is no need for a relay if you use the connectors under the front panels as long as the draw connected to them is less than what they are rated for.   Those connectors are switched ( via relay ) already.  The  two 3 pin connectors share a 10 amp fuse.  The two 2 pin connectors ( one used by the cigarette lighter jack on the dash ) share a 2 amp fuse. 
 

Just get the correct connectors to plug in to the jacks that Yamaha provided and for 99 % of the use cases you don’t need  to run additional wires up to the front from the battery. 
 

The only exception would be heated gear which I would run direct from the battery on a fused connection. 

Agreed! These folks should just be using the plugs to directly power their chargers. My initial thinking was if the plugs already have loads connected the hots could be spliced into and used as triggers for the relay switching the wires these guys already ran directly from the battery but this probably is isn’t the case and I’m probably just confusing people…

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Keep it in a trickle charger guys. I keep all my bikes on one.

OverlandRider.com

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7 hours ago, Firebolter said:

All the connectors, wiring looms and stuff with the correct plugs can be found here:

 

I added a Rowe PDM60 to my bike to add anything I need. I did use the 3 wire plug under the right side and wired my GPS to the +/- and the third wire is a trigger, so I ran than wire back to the PDM and then hooked the PDM +/-  to the battery. Now I have all the protected power I need and no more drain. I still have the left side plug too but was gonna use that for Aux light if/when I get them. Heated gear or other accessories I will run off the PDM. The PDM mounts right under the frame cross brace behind the battery, out of the way and protected! No more fuses, if a circuit trips, find the short/issue and correct it then turn the key off/on and it resets the PDM breaker. Simple and easy-

 

 

Look at the second plug down, that is the one for the right side 3 wire plug on the stock harness-

 

I ordered this and its on the list of projects for over the winter....  I hope its relatively straightforward install!!

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On 12/1/2021 at 7:51 PM, Liquidape said:

There is no need for a relay if you use the connectors under the front panels as long as the draw connected to them is less than what they are rated for.   Those connectors are switched ( via relay ) already.  The  two 3 pin connectors share a 10 amp fuse.  The two 2 pin connectors ( one used by the cigarette lighter jack on the dash ) share a 2 amp fuse. 
 

Just get the correct connectors to plug in to the jacks that Yamaha provided and for 99 % of the use cases you don’t need  to run additional wires up to the front from the battery. 
 

The only exception would be heated gear which I would run direct from the battery on a fused connection. 

This is awesome.  I am trying to connect my Quadlock Wireless charger.  Can you show a visual of how to do this with the connectors under the front panel?  I am not sharp with electrical so really appreciate the handholding.  What would I buy, where does it plug?  Many thanks.  

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52 minutes ago, roygilbo said:

This is awesome.  I am trying to connect my Quadlock Wireless charger.  Can you show a visual of how to do this with the connectors under the front panel?  I am not sharp with electrical so really appreciate the handholding.  What would I buy, where does it plug?  Many thanks.  

The answers you seek are in the links in the post above yours by T700NB. 
Get a power lead from Eastern Beaver and go to town. 

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1 hour ago, Liquidape said:

The answers you seek are in the links in the post above yours by T700NB. 
Get a power lead from Eastern Beaver and go to town. 

Thanks and I have read everything again...  Maybe someone else can assist me.  

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2 hours ago, Liquidape said:

The answers you seek are in the links in the post above yours by T700NB. 
Get a power lead from Eastern Beaver and go to town. 

But you are correct, this subject has been beaten to death.  I am a visual learner, so can copy pretty much anything if I see the real thing.  

 

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2 hours ago, Samm said:

I just looked up your quadlock charger. Does it just hook up via USB?

 

yes it can be hooked up by a USB cable or direct wired to battery - includes wiring for either option.

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2 hours ago, Samm said:

Click on the Eastern Beaver Link above. Click "Other Stuff. Second item down is the "Power Leads for Aux Light Connector (DIY aux lights etc)". That cable will plug directly into the existing spare connector under your right hand or left hand side panel (pull a panel off tonight and have a look around, take some pictures, it will help us walk you through this). You'll have to connect your charger cable to the loose wires on the Eastern Beaver cable. Solder and shrink tube or if you dont have a soldering iron you can buy shrink wrap tube connectors that have solder in them and can be done just by using a heat gun. Another layer of shrink wrap over those and you're all set. 

 

You say you have very little DIY wiring experience but I assure you this is super simple. The only thing I'm unsure of is the colour coding on the Eastern Beaver wires, maybe someone else can chime in? I'm also pretty sure their description is wrong. On the three pin connector under the fairing two wires are switched hot and the third is the ground, correct? There is not one switched wire and one "always hot" wire.

 

Something like this for making your connections:

 

thanks!  Good info!  I think I ordered that cable.  I will try and get at this soon!

 

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