Lowering your T7

[one wheel drive]

I'm about average height with a 32" (81.3 centimeters) inseam.  The T7 has me standing on tip toes.

 

That's okay for street riding, but on dirt I want better contact with the ground.

 

Obvious first remedy would be a lower seat. Anyone tried a low seat and got satisfaction this way? What seat have you tried? How comfortable is it? How much did it lower the seat height?

 

 

If a low seat doesn't get it done, what else is there other than lowering the suspension? Kouba and a few others make lowering links. Anyone here had experience lowering the T7 this way?

 

How did it affect the handling? Did you bump up the rear spring rate to compensate?

 

Any source of pro advice on doing this?

 

I would assume you'd need to drop the triples down on the fork tube a similar amount to balance the bike. Any problems with the fender making contact then?  Cornering or handling issues show up?

 

I hate to lose stroke length and ground clearance. But that sacrifice might have to be made to gain a bit of control during stops in the dirt.

 

 

Yeah, I know. Just don't ever stop.  But seriously.

 

 

:

Edited August 26, 2021 by one wheel drive

[one wheel drive]

Answering this question, sorta, I found this other thread.

 

 

:

[exiledinaus]

I got the Rally Raid uprated  spring and had it installed and lowered at Torque Racing - I really recommend it...

[one wheel drive]

29 minutes ago, exiledinaus said:

I got the Rally Raid uprated  spring and had it installed and lowered at Torque Racing - I really recommend it...

 

That would be the rear shock spring?  With lowering link? How much lower?

 

Was that a  9 nm spring or what?  Your weight plus gear and what you normally pack on the bike, what would you estimate?

 

 

And what did you do to the front?

 

 

Lot of questions, I know. But the details matter to get it right. 

 

:

 

 

[exiledinaus]

ah I see - you are in the pacific northwest - so coming to Cambridgeshire to get your bike done won't really work.  I had the 95kg spring put in - Rally Raid could advise you properly based on your weight. We dropped the forks through just 10mm from memory, but I would call Mitch at Rally Raid or one of the guys at Torque Racing and i bet they would be happy to tell you.

 

I can't remember all the details myself because they did it for me I am afraid...

[mpatch]

Do you have any sort of dirt riding background?

So many street to dirt riders get way too hung up on being able to flat foot. 
Any sort of  bike with decent suspension travel is going to be tall. Slide your ass on the seat way or the other and as long as you can get one foot down you’ll be fine. 
Air dabs are a thing and they will happen, you pick the bike up and try not to repeat whatever it is you did. 

[one wheel drive]

13 minutes ago, mpatch said:

Do you have any sort of dirt riding background?

So many street to dirt riders get way too hung up on being able to flat foot. 
Any sort of  bike with decent suspension travel is going to be tall. Slide your ass on the seat way or the other and as long as you can get one foot down you’ll be fine. 
Air dabs are a thing and they will happen, you pick the bike up and try not to repeat whatever it is you did. 

 

Hmm. I'm not gonna brag on my awesome skills, but I do have a few years experience on several bikes. Plenty back country and single track. So not a noob.

 

That said, Pol I ain't. And with the T7, its height and weight, I don't want to have to scoot halfway off the saddle when low speed maneuvering or when the ground drops off just a little.

 

And I don't want to drop it in zero speed situations because I couldn't quite hold it up.   Not expecting to flat foot it, but I'd like to get both sides on the ball of the foot rather than tippy toes.  Even an inch might be enough.

 

I'm kinda surprised Yamaha seems to have built the frame for someone over six foot tall . . . but they engineered the suspension for someone under 170 pounds.  That's a high school basketballer, not your average dood.

 

 

And ya. If you want long stroke and high ground clearance, you are gonna have a tall bike.  Get that.

 

I already feel like the high pegs cramp my legs on a long ride and I want to drop them down a couple inch.

 

 

:

[mpatch]

27 minutes ago, one wheel drive said:

 

Hmm. I'm not gonna brag on my awesome skills, but I do have a few years experience on several bikes. Plenty back country and single track. So not a noob.

 

That said, Pol I ain't. And with the T7, its height and weight, I don't want to have to scoot halfway off the saddle when low speed maneuvering or when the ground drops off just a little.

 

And I don't want to drop it in zero speed situations because I couldn't quite hold it up.   Not expecting to flat foot it, but I'd like to get both sides on the ball of the foot rather than tippy toes.  Even an inch might be enough.

 

I'm kinda surprised Yamaha seems to have built the frame for someone over six foot tall . . . but they engineered the suspension for someone under 170 pounds.  That's a high school basketballer, not your average dood.

 

 

And ya. If you want long stroke and high ground clearance, you are gonna have a tall bike.  Get that.

 

I already feel like the high pegs cramp my legs on a long ride and I want to drop them down a couple inch.

 

 

:

Im about the same as you. Thus far I have installed lower pegs and have a low seat coming 

[Gekkdroid]

The factory low seat was not good for more than a couple hours.  It also only lowered it about .5 inches.  The Seat Concepts One Piece Low was far more comfortable and lowered it about 7/8 of an inch but more importantly, it had lower edges that were smooth.  It gave an easier reach to the ground.

 

The forks can be moved up one inch before they touch the plastic tank shroud.  I tried the 18 mm lowering links but it just wasn't enough for me.  It probably will be for most people.  I went to the max 50 mm links.

 

The handling and feel are still the same, great.  I just gave up ground clearance which is fine since I ride paved roads only.

[one wheel drive]

40 minutes ago, mpatch said:

Im about the same as you. Thus far I have installed lower pegs and have a low seat coming 

 

You found an off-the-shelf lowered peg.  Can you point us to it?

 

:

[one wheel drive]

9 minutes ago, Gekkdroid said:

The factory low seat was not good for more than a couple hours.  It also only lowered it about .5 inches.  The Seat Concepts One Piece Low was far more comfortable and lowered it about 7/8 of an inch but more importantly, it had lower edges that were smooth.  It gave an easier reach to the ground.

 

The forks can be moved up one inch before they touch the plastic tank shroud.  I tried the 18 mm lowering links but it just wasn't enough for me.  It probably will be for most people.  I went to the max 50 mm links.

 

The handling and feel are still the same, great.  I just gave up ground clearance which is fine since I ride paved roads only.

 

 

Good to know handling didn't go wonk on you with the max link. You didn't  swap out the spring?

 

 Do you push the bike pretty hard?  On pavement . . . on the dirt?

 

 

7/8" might do it.  If the 20mm link drops it another 3/4", I expect that would be plenty.

 

 

:

[mpatch]

M

1 hour ago, one wheel drive said:

 

You found an off-the-shelf lowered peg.  Can you point us to it?

 

:

Moose racing rear offset pegs 

 

I’m guessing a interweb search would find them. 
Part #
1620-1240

 

Edited August 26, 2021 by mpatch

[Gekkdroid]

11 hours ago, one wheel drive said:

 

 

Good to know handling didn't go wonk on you with the max link. You didn't  swap out the spring?

 

 Do you push the bike pretty hard?  On pavement . . . on the dirt?

 

 

7/8" might do it.  If the 20mm link drops it another 3/4", I expect that would be plenty.

 

 

:

Yes, I ride the bike hard on the road (no dirt) and power out of turns like a sport tourer.  I'm lucky in that I'm light so the stock suspension is fine after some tweaking.

[one wheel drive]

17 hours ago, mpatch said:

M

Moose racing rear offset pegs 

 

I’m guessing a interweb search would find them. 
Part #
1620-1240

 

 

 

Say mpatch,  how much did those pegs drop your foot?  Any problems adjusting the brake and shifter to match?

 

:

[mpatch]

3 hours ago, one wheel drive said:

 

 

Say mpatch,  how much did those pegs drop your foot?  Any problems adjusting the brake and shifter to match?

 

:

I honestly have no idea how much lower they are vs stock. I had no problems getting the shifter and brake adjusted to my liking. 

[Butter]

I have a 31 1/2" inseam. I went with the RR 20mm lower links, and dropped the forks 7mm from factory (14mm total). Still plenty of tank clearance. 

That was the RR recommendation. The geometry feels right. 

 

I am about 195 lbs in all my gear and have the 90nm shock spring. I use a standard height seat.

 

The lowering link took the bike from a little more than tip toe standing to almost flat foot standing. I think you will find the 20mm lowering link to be a great all around option.

 

 

[one wheel drive]

6 hours ago, Butter said:

I have a 31 1/2" inseam. I went with the RR 20mm lower links, and dropped the forks 7mm from factory (14mm total). Still plenty of tank clearance. 

That was the RR recommendation. The geometry feels right. 

 

I am about 195 lbs in all my gear and have the 90nm shock spring. I use a standard height seat.

 

The lowering link took the bike from a little more than tip toe standing to almost flat foot standing. I think you will find the 20mm lowering link to be a great all around option.

 

 

 

 

Thanks Butter. That's good info.

 

Were you going to bump the spring anyway on account of the stock one was soft . . . or did the link make it feel like you needed that?  I've never lowered a bike using a link before, so I don't know what to expect.

 

Did the link change the handling in any way you could feel, before you swapped the spring?  Does it fell right now you've made those mods?

 

And no changes to the fork springs?

 

I think Yamaha claims about 9 1/2"  ground clearance.  Do you suppose you lost and inch there?

 

:

[Butter]

11 hours ago, one wheel drive said:

 

 

Thanks Butter. That's good info.

 

Were you going to bump the spring anyway on account of the stock one was soft . . . or did the link make it feel like you needed that?  I've never lowered a bike using a link before, so I don't know what to expect.

 

Did the link change the handling in any way you could feel, before you swapped the spring?  Does it fell right now you've made those mods?

 

And no changes to the fork springs?

 

I think Yamaha claims about 9 1/2"  ground clearance.  Do you suppose you lost and inch there?

 

:

Yes, the stock spring is soft. If I had planned to only use the bike with no luggage, than the stock spring would have been fine. I was like 17 clicks from soft on the preload with just a light duffel bag on the tail. If I wanted to the load the bike with say 50lbs of luggage or ride with a light pillion, it was too soft.

 

At my riding weight (about 195lbs), the 90nm spring gives me a lot of range with how I can load the bike. With the RR soft luggage rack I'm 7 clicks from soft on the preload with no luggage. With a medium tail bag full of tools, rain jacket, and tubes I'm 10 clicks.  If I load the bike with 50-60lbs of luggage, than I'm about 15-17 clicks from soft.

 

I swapped the spring when I also installed the lowering links. So, I'm not sure how each would change the feel alone.

 

For aftermarket spending, I would prioritize the lowering link and shock spring first. They are relatively inexpensive. I did change the forks to a 6nm spring as part of the RR open cartridge kit. This modification is pretty expensive. It is really nice, as you can dial the forks in to what you are doing with the bike. You can also break much harder on the pavement without the front dipping. Changing the front fork kit will give you much more confidence with what you can do with the bike. The off road pot holes and dips are much easier to ride and be aggressive on.

 

If I had to guess, I would say I lost about 1/2 inch of clearance with the lowering link and fork adjustment.  

 

 

       

[whisperquiet]

On 8/25/2021 at 6:44 PM, one wheel drive said:

 

You found an off-the-shelf lowered peg.  Can you point us to it?

 

:

I bought SW Motech Ion footpegs that can be mounted 15mm lower than the stock pegs.  I have a 35” inseam and the bike’s ergos are/were cramped for me so I have the 41mm taller OEM Yamaha Rally seat installed.  I slid the front fork tubes up 1/2” to lower the bike slightly and to quicken the steering.  It is still a very tall bike for even me at 6’4” tall.  I think the very tall T7 engine certainly dictated the final ergos of the bike.  I may install a lowering link in the near future.

 

SW-MOTECH ION Adjustable Foot Peg Kit | Select Bikes

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Install this amazing ION Adjustable Foot Peg Kit by SW-MOTECH to secure additional grip and traction that is priceless in slippery off-road conditions.

 

Edited August 27, 2021 by whisperquiet

[NotGoodAtUsrnms]

I think I've landed on the following setup:

- Soupy's lowering links (url below)

- Rally Raid 90 N/mm rear spring with a bit more preload

- Seat Concepts Low Rally one-piece seat

- Front fork currently at 25mm drop iirc

- AND I no longer have stock handlebars (tip over before links and seat change).

- Purchased but have not installed CamelADV lower kickstand

 

It's so many changes from stock that I hesitated to reply to the thread, I've been on a journey to get comfortable with the T7 when stationary/slow speed plus elevation. I hope all this info is useful so you can dial in for your own ergos. and riding style.

 

I had the RR spring installed at the dealer on pickup so I've never ridden on the stock spring. I had changed preload to minimal settings but no tweaking to rebound/compression. The T7 rear sailed over higher speed chudder/bad roads that buck my cheap little sportbike. Actually riding the T7 has exceeded my expectations of how a 21" front wheel adventure bike can handle twisty mountain roads. My only problems have been that damn high weight of a full gas tank plus front squishy brake dive. Anyone who compares this 460+ lb pig to a ~300lb dual sport can shove off, I can ride a WR250R, DR400 and DR650 at stock height with stock suspension with zero issues. They are not the same.

 

I had FIVE slow/no speed drops in the first ~1200mi, the last one had the handlebar smack a curb and bent them pretty bad. Outback Motortek crash bars have taken their licks. I gave in and bought the lower links while I was waiting for the low saddle to ship.

 

The initial length that the Soupy links came with was nicely lowered, probably the usual 2". With the stock seat I was able to have more control on awkward stops, not flat foot and I could tell the rear was out of sorts. I bumped preload a few notches and could tell the difference but the (I believe) rebound was still off and had a bit more pogostick than it should have. Luckily for me, my low saddle came soon after I installed the lower links and I could flat foot the bike. The SC Low Rally feels narrower than stock and I rode with this flat-foot / ultra-low config for a few hundred miles. Very recently I adjusted the Soupy links to be closer to stock link height: almost one full turn of the barrel shorter. I was able to do this change with the bike up on a center maintenance "stand" and not removing the rear wheel or links. Rear seems better, I've keep the preload at (iirc) 3 or 4 clicks from fully out and have rebound/compression still at stock settings. I'm at ~1700mi with no drops since swapping in the lower links.

 

Stock kickstand height with lower links keeps the bike pretty upright. It looks like a pita to remove the kickstand so I've held off while dialing in my link length but I've had to watch where I park. My guess is that I'll end up on the lower kickstand.

 

Front fork spring replacement is planned for this winter although still weighing my options. Gotta get rid of that initial dive. Good to hear that the RR open cartridge works. @Butter - did the open cartridge kit come with the RR "Uprated Fork Spring Guide" or just plastic?

 

Soupy's Tenere 700 XTZ690 Lowering Links Kit (All Years)

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Tenere 700 XTZ690 turnbuckle style lowering links are infinitely adjustable between stock height and a -4 inch drop. No need to remove bolts and disassemble the rear suspension everytime you raise or lower your bike!

 

 

[Tigerjohn]

I went with the RR 20mm lowering links, (good quality and much cheaper than Yamaha's), with standard seat after trying the low seat first. I didn't find the low seat comfortable on longer rides, so the lowering links worked for me. I dropped the forks by about 8mm as recommended. It worked for me - no issues at all.

[Butter]

@NotGoodAtUsrnms If I remember correctly, the spring guides are plastic.