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Hydraulic Clutch


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Hi there,


I had a small 'off' a few weeks ago and the barkbusters rotated on the handle bar and kinked my clutch cable.  So I have to get a new clutch cable - but I was considering a hydraulic clutch.


Does anyone have any thoughts on this?


Many thanks


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I've owned many bikes with both over the years, and I'd always choose a cable over hydraulic clutch if given the choice as long as the cable allows for a reasonable lever effort as on the T7. Simpler, lighter, no leaks, possibly more adjustment, less expensive. Keep the cable ends lubed and swap it out with a new one every couple years should eliminate breakage concerns. I'm sure others will list some, but I don't see any advantage in going hydraulic.

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One of the strongest if no the strongest points of the T7 is it's simplicity and that is with a reason.
A cable clutch is part of that and added to what @jdub53 mentioned is the possibility for a trail fix. When a hydraulic clutch is broken it is gone until you replace it.
A cable can be fixed in different way if you're a bit resourceful and get you out of trouble a bit easier at some point.
Unless you stick to the beaten path but why buy a T7 if you don't use it for what it's made for, you don't buy diner if you want a drink.

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Also strongly in the cable group.  Not worth changing, unless you've got physical limitations making the cable actuated clutch too hard to pull and that's also considering using a longer actuator arm, like CamelADV's or the Aliexpress knockoff.  For exactly the reasons that have been stated: simplicity, easy fixing if there's a problem, complete with alternate "get you home" methods that just don't really exist for a hydraulic clutch.  I'd also add: If you've ever got an issue, you may find that it's harder to get parts for your aftermarket system (or impossible), whereas the stock components are always readily available. 


And, of course, because we've also got a cable throttle, it's REALLY worth carrying one of the universal cable replacement kits.  They're stupid cheap and can be used to fix any of your (or any riding buddies) control cables that do break. 

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5 minutes ago, Wintersdark said:

unless you've got physical limitations making the cable actuated clutch too hard to pull

Hydraulic is mostly harder and if not a cable operated clutch is easier to make it less hard, hydraulic is what it is and gets harder when the fluid gets older.

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If you develop a leak with a hydraulic clutch, you're screwed. master cylinder, slave cylinder, or line could be an issue. Even if you have the parts, you need fluid and a means to bleed it.


There's a whole bunch of Ducati and KTM riders out there that have needed to replace slave cylinders, they have been a weak point on those bikes.


If you need a lighter clutch pull, go for one of there;


AltRider Clutch Arm Extension for the Yamaha Tenere 700 - While the Yamaha Tenere 700 clutch is well designed for casual riding, technical off road riding with heavy clutch work can quickly fatigue a riders hand and...




The 1 Finger Clutch Kit we designed for the KTM 790ADV has been our best selling product! We've been swamped with requests for a similar kit for the wildly popular Yamaha 700 Tenere. We happy to announce the T7 1...



I have the Camel Adv on both my Tenere and my wife's FZ-07, great product.


First thing I buy when I get a new bike is an extra clutch cable and stash it somewhere on the bike.

Edited by norton73
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Simplicity wins. Why complicate something that doesn’t need improved beyond perhaps softening the pull mechanically as mentioned above.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Why don't Yamaha fit a longer clutch arm as standard? And give me a cable clutch every time on a bike that can go off-road.

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We have to put some effort in.  🏋️‍Life isn’t about being efficient. Look at “wall.E” 😁😳🍩🍩🍩🍩🍩🍩🍩🍩


Although I wouldn’t want to do the old Harley hand shift and foot clutch. 🤔


now excuse me while I go punish myself with birch branches in the rain. 

Edited by Dougie
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What I did was cut and take the clutch cam to a welder, who added a 9mm piece. That way you improved the travel, smoothed out the clutch, and you can fit it while keeping the OEM crash bars, because the Camel ADV lever is too long.
It's been over a year since I did it and I haven't had any problems.




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Teneré 700 '20

WR250R '10

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