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Corroded pipes on bike <3k kms


Boyca

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Hi guys,

$%&^ winter, I'm done with it. I wash my bike weekly to avoid salt deposits and today I noticed crazy white corrosion on the side of my engine hub. 

Warm water and a rag doesn't do anything to do, it feels hard. I'm guessing the salt has etched itself in already?

What are my options here as this just looks stupid and ugly. 

 

 

20220124_162827.jpeg

Edited by Boyca
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  • Boyca changed the title to Corroded pipes on bike <3k kms

It might not have got through the paint, just really stuck on the surface. Try brasso wadding / duraglit on a little out of sight area. A light oil and something not too abrasive (rag/ cotton wool etc) should be ok. Then wash it off and protect it with scottoil 365. Often.
Until the bastards stop spreading it and the rain washes it off the roads. 

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3 minutes ago, Dougie said:

It might not have got through the paint, just really stuck on the surface. Try brasso wadding / duraglit on a little out of sight area. A light oil and something not too abrasive (rag/ cotton wool etc) should be ok. Then wash it off and protect it with scottoil 365. Often.
Until the bastards stop spreading it and the rain washes it off the roads. 

I tried a bit of metal polish on a small part but it didn't seem to do much, and it I felt like you could see the polish do damage to the paint. 

People telling me also to never use metal polish on bike parts, ugh I don't know what to believe anymore.

image.png.18558d8d962feab01c4b30b6a6f7da76.png 

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I'm just guessing but perhaps a bit of calcium/lime remover on a wet cloth may be the ticket.  And one other thing I have had success with on some impossible to remove gunk is oven cleaner for cold oven cleaning.  

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mine are worse.ive tried most things to no avail. its a yamaha thing. the only way will be to remove and do a proper paint job on them..

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There was a topic about someone who didn't like the grey bolts in the fender and another guy came with a solution for the problem that i also had figured out and it also works on this problem.
afbeelding.thumb.png.30f878e1aa25f4469a3425c7c6cd8189.png

:classic_cool:

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I’ll check tomorrow but I’m not sure it’s painted or blued/treated. It’s oil and a very light abrasive and patience if needed. By abrasive, I mean wadding or cloth. 
P. S. Just been down and did mine in two seconds. Silvo wadding. Wipe off. 365 or oil on it. 
here’s a before and after. No effort. 5 seconds trial max. 
but scottoil 365 is the best secret for winter riding I’ve been let into. Acf50 in some places too. But 365 washes off easily when you want to. You just keep spraying the bike every few days. Then clean it when you get the chance on weekends etc. 👍

836189AC-81F1-463F-A8E0-82B0956954F1.jpeg

00C78415-5048-4A50-A390-2BB2AEC5C8A7.jpeg

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The Curse of the Coolant Pipes strikes again! All CP2 engines do it....the coolant pipes on my XSR700 were nearly white. Don't ask me why.

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@DougieAnd that was also salt corrosion? I'll check but I doubt I'll find the wadding where I live. What kind of oil and cloth incase I can't find it? I got microfiber cloths and wd40 on me. Thanks for trying it out

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32 minutes ago, Ray Ride4life said:

There was a topic about someone who didn't like the grey bolts in the fender and another guy came with a solution for the problem that i also had figured out and it also works on this problem.
afbeelding.thumb.png.30f878e1aa25f4469a3425c7c6cd8189.png

:classic_cool:

Appears we are of a similar mind set,

Ray. That was my solution for the fender bolts. 

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5 minutes ago, Hammerhead said:

That was my solution for the fender bolts

Lol.
I didn't remember who it was and was too lazy to look for it.
But i had to mention it was not a original reaction.

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2 hours ago, Tigerjohn said:

The Curse of the Coolant Pipes strikes again! All CP2 engines do it....the coolant pipes on my XSR700 were nearly white. Don't ask me why.

Interesting, When I get mine I think I'll apply a coat of clear to the pipes, or at least apply a good coat of wax.  It makes sense to wax any painted metal surface if you want it kept in good condition.  Any that are exposed to water or sunlight at least, washing machines, lawn mowers.

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I'd say this is good progress with just some wd40 and a rag. Thanks @Dougie for the tip! I'll see if I can find some wadding soon to try and get it polished completely again. I'm also looking at waxing/protection agents. The scottoiler 365 seems like it would easily get removed after some rain, I guess I wouldn't mind it to look messy as long as it protects so I'm thinking a waxier agent. 

 

image.png.6d74b4cd2728986bc6d0c821c57f8b36.png

Edited by Boyca
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On 1/25/2022 at 1:08 PM, Boyca said:

I'd say this is good progress with just some wd40 and a rag. Thanks @Dougie for the tip! I'll see if I can find some wadding soon to try and get it polished completely again. I'm also looking at waxing/protection agents. The scottoiler 365 seems like it would easily get removed after some rain, I guess I wouldn't mind it to look messy as long as it protects so I'm thinking a waxier agent. 

 

image.png.6d74b4cd2728986bc6d0c821c57f8b36.png

try xcp anti corrosion spray. it really is good stuff.the original is best. a bugga to remove but does protect.

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Motorcycles are not coated/designed to resist road sale. Been in it my whole life. PRE-treating EVERYTHING with wax will slow down the onset. 

The boat guys use this:  

 

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@PilomajajoYeah I've seen acf50 suggested a lot on different fora. It says it doesn't need to be re-applied after washing, but I can't imagine it will still be active on the surface after a sponge wash right? Either way, it does seem to be a credible product. Now trying to find the cheapest deal on a bottle of that stuff. 

 

@concoursPartly agree, but one could argue that the decision to cheap out on certain materials is to blame as well. First thing that comes to mind are the cheap spokes on the t7. Rear on mine are completely corroded and so are certain spots on the rim itself.. that surprised me in a very bad way. I'm hoping to remove it and protect it from now on but on first impressions it seems like that will be one hell of a job ahead of me..

 

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1 hour ago, Boyca said:

@PilomajajoYeah I've seen acf50 suggested a lot on different fora. It says it doesn't need to be re-applied after washing, but I can't imagine it will still be active on the surface after a sponge wash right? Either way, it does seem to be a credible product. Now trying to find the cheapest deal on a bottle of that stuff. 

 

@concoursPartly agree, but one could argue that the decision to cheap out on certain materials is to blame as well. First thing that comes to mind are the cheap spokes on the t7. Rear on mine are completely corroded and so are certain spots on the rim itself.. that surprised me in a very bad way. I'm hoping to remove it and protect it from now on but on first impressions it seems like that will be one hell of a job ahead of me..

 

How old is it? If they’re that bad, take em back and demand new spokes. Several warranty claims for spokes have been done in my area. Same goes for the plate at the front of the tank. I acf50 that, and a few other bits but 365 all over generally. 
Im thinking of stainless spokes in a few tyre changes time while getting the rims coated gold. 

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2 hours ago, Boyca said:

@PilomajajoYeah I've seen acf50 suggested a lot on different fora. It says it doesn't need to be re-applied after washing, but I can't imagine it will still be active on the surface after a sponge wash right? Either way, it does seem to be a credible product. Now trying to find the cheapest deal on a bottle of that stuff. 

 

@concoursPartly agree, but one could argue that the decision to cheap out on certain materials is to blame as well. First thing that comes to mind are the cheap spokes on the t7. Rear on mine are completely corroded and so are certain spots on the rim itself.. that surprised me in a very bad way. I'm hoping to remove it and protect it from now on but on first impressions it seems like that will be one hell of a job ahead of me..

 

I use my bike daily, year round. start of winter season (when they start salting the roads) I apply the acf and don't bother to much washing the bike (just a rinse now and then) until winter is over. then I clean it with care - take off the afc completely. worked for me so far. have to agree to more and more cheaping out on certain materials though. keeping a bike completely corrosion free is almost impossible in our climate here. 

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@Dougie4 months old, 2800km. There's zero chrome visible anymore on the rear spokes. Front seems fine but it's starting, but the difference between both wheels is crazy.

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1 hour ago, Boyca said:

@Dougie4 months old, 2800km. There's zero chrome visible anymore on the rear spokes. Front seems fine but it's starting, but the difference between both wheels is crazy.

Straight back to them bud. They’ll be fine about it. 

a tip for rust on some metal parts (chrome especially) too ( not mine but I was amazed when I tried it), to get things back to shiny, is aluminium foil and water. Any rust spots on fork slider for example, just take a scrunched up ball of foil, dip in water and start rubbing on the rusty spots. It’s immense. 
def get those spokes seen by the dealer though. 👍

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@DougieYeah I plan to bring them a visit, but they're a strange dealership so I'm not getting my hopes up. Unless that kind of corrosion is in yamaha's global warranty. ugh I wish they had in house options for stainless. I've heard about the foil trick before, but this doesn't scratch up the finish? Also, what plate in front of the tank are you talking about that is also vulnerable?

Edited by Boyca
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21 minutes ago, Boyca said:

@DougieYeah I plan to bring them a visit, but they're a strange dealership so I'm not getting my hopes up. Unless that kind of corrosion is in yamaha's global warranty. ugh I wish they had in house options for stainless. I've heard about the foil trick before, but this doesn't scratch up the finish? Also, what plate in front of the tank are you talking about that is also vulnerable?

The foil is just for hard finish metal, chrome parts. 
the plate at the front of the tank, visible behind the top yoke. Routinely spray it with ACF after a wash. 
I need to find a good tip for cleaning and protecting mild steel spokes to use on the 1VJ. Mine are terrible. 

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