List of all the bolt and nut sizes

[Adamsson]

Hi!

 

Has anyone come across or made their own list of every single bolt and nut size found in the Tenere 700? The user's manual and official Yamaha Work Shop Manual only list the usual sizes (rear axle nut, seat cover nut, etc.).

 

I'm planning to build a complete tool set which covers every imaginable scenario on long off-road-trips in the middle of nowhere. This requires (as I don't want to be carrying anything unnecessary) going around the bike and testing every bolt, nut, hex and torx and writing it down (hoping not to miss anything as it would be a bummer to realize that you don't have let's say a torx size 35 on you for that one single nut you would like to open on a road-side-fix...)

 

If would be super if someone has already done this and would like to share!

 

Cheers,

 

Adamsson

Edited February 28, 2022 by Adamsson
(clearing it up)

[Tenerider]

I have by no means touched every screw on my bike, but the nut sizes I have come across so far (on my bike).

The ones which I regard critical for on-trail repairs are marked in red (comments welcome):

 

Flathead:

1.2 x 6.5 mm (suspension rebound/compression dampening, fork air bleeding) - this size is a good fit, better than the included OEM flathead

 

Philips (JIS???):

PH2 (brake fluid reservoir, airbox, ...)
PH3 (negative battery connector, ...?)

 

Hex socket (Allen key):

3mm (CamelADV Anti Bobble head)

4mm (windscreen, plastic fairings, OEM front seat, ...)

5mm (engine casing and almost everything else :D)

6mm (at least on my Hepo&Becker crash bars, my Acerbis handguards, but probably somewhere else, too)

8mm (exhaust hanger bolt, pillion pegs?, ...)

19mm (front axle*)

 

Hex head (spanner):

8mm (a lot)

10mm (a lot)

11mm (brake nipples**, thx  @Hogan , shifting linkage ball sockets, thx @Hollybrook)

12mm (brake hoses, chain roller wheels, subframe screws)

13mm (H&B crash bar mounts, SW-Motech skid, might exchange them against M8 12mm hex head bolts)

14mm (rear sprocket, rear suspension mount, sidestand nut, exhaust hanger nut)

17mm (mirrors, oil drench plug, rear suspension connecting arm/linkage, H&B center stand, ..., thx @Uncle M)

19mm (fork cap bolt, rear suspension connecting arm (chassis connection))

27mm (rear wheel nut*)

 

Torx:

TX30 (outer fairing screws, but these also have an 8mm hex head)

TX50 (thanks @BikeBrother)

 

"Special" tools:

Oil filter 64mm and/or 65mm with 14 flutes/flats (part numbers 90890-01426 or YU-38411 according to service manual, thx @Hibobb)

 

*I use Rally Raid's T7 spanner: https://www.rally-raidproducts.co.uk/yamaha-t7-tenere/yamaha-t7-tenere-spanner

 

** Brake nipples seem to be the only place where 11mm is being used. Can be easily reached with a decent pliers wrench like https://www.knipex.com/products/pipe-wrenches-and-water-pump-pliers/pliers-wrenches-pliers-and-a-wrench-in-a-single-tool/pliers-wrenchespliers-and-wrench-single-tool/8603180

 

Looking forward to your additions!

 

P.S.: Not totally sure how you call the two different hex screw types in English, hope it's correct that way.

 

 

 

Edited August 4, 2023 by Tenerider

[Ray Ride4life]

If you do the services yourself just use the onboatd toolkit. Then you know what you need is in it or what is missing and also what you don't use and leave that out.

That's how i do it.

[Hibobb]

[Adamsson]

Yep, that's exactly what I'm going to do. I was just asking around in order to make sure my on-board-toolkit doesn't miss any weird socket sizes for parts I haven't serviced yet. I've found a listing of different bolt sizes online for basically every ADV bike I've ever dealt with but hadn't seen one for the Tenere 700... Thanks for your response anyway!

[Landshark]

5 hours ago, Adamsson said:

Yep, that's exactly what I'm going to do. I was just asking around in order to make sure my on-board-toolkit doesn't miss any weird socket sizes for parts I haven't serviced yet. I've found a listing of different bolt sizes online for basically every ADV bike I've ever dealt with but hadn't seen one for the Tenere 700... Thanks for your response anyway!

 That's a good idea.  We need to make a list of minimum toolage required to fix stuff on that long trip.  We could start on this thread.

[Dougie]

8 hours ago, Hibobb said:

That’s my underseat kit.

[Hibobb]

Well you are certainly no "Princess and the Pea".

[Ray Ride4life]

33 minutes ago, Tenerider said:

PH2 (brake fluid reservoir, airbox, ...)

These are most likely JIS, that's also the reason so many people destroy the heads when removing the cap.

 

Edit: If you think you don't have a JIS screwdriver then check your tools that came with the bike.

Edited September 15, 2022 by Ray Ride4life

[Hibobb]

@Ray Ride4life is right of the importance of using JIS screwdrivers. They are 100% better than anything else.

I don't know how many Brake reservoir cover screws or Carburetor float bowl screws have been stripped out by using the crapola stuff you find in your wife's kitchen junk drawer! Even the tools that came with your bike are cheap (Unless you ride a BMW, I have heard they are decent)

 

Best money you will EVER spend is right here:

 

Vessel Megadora 900 JIS Cross Point Screwdriver Set P1 P2 P3

---

<b>Condition:Brand New.<br><br>P1 × 75     Blade :Cross Point,Shaft length (mm): 75,Total length (mm): 175<br>P2 × 100   Blade :Cross Point,Shaft length (mm): 100,Total length (mm): 150<br>P3 × 150...

 

Edited September 15, 2022 by Hibobb

[Uncle M]

@Tenerider 17mm socket or spanner is also used for oil drain plug.

[Tenerider]

2 minutes ago, Uncle M said:

@Tenerider 17mm socket or spanner is also used for oil drain plug.

Thanks! Will add it to the list (I use a different oil plug with an integrated valve).

[Hibobb]

@Tenerider, as long as you are updating your list, you might mention the oil filter wrench. I see it listed as 64mm and/or 65mm with 14 flutes/flats.

[Tenerider]

Just added some applications for 12/14mm.

Feel free to add whatever you come across! It makes it easier selecting tools for your tool roll.

For example, what's the nut size for the front sprocket? Steering stem nut?

 

 

Edited September 17, 2022 by Tenerider

[Hollybrook]

@Tenerider an 11mm open end wrench (spanner) is also used to adjust the linkage for the shift lever, where it holds the ball socket from turning.  A pliers wrench might also work here, but would be more awkward than a wrench.

[Tenerider]

11 minutes ago, Hollybrook said:

@Tenerider an 11mm open end wrench (spanner) is also used to adjust the linkage for the shift lever, where it holds the ball socket from turning.  A pliers wrench might also work here, but would be more awkward than a wrench.

Good point!

[lwmcvay3]

On 9/15/2022 at 8:50 AM, Hibobb said:

@Ray Ride4life is right of the importance of using JIS screwdrivers. They are 100% better than anything else.

I don't know how many Brake reservoir cover screws or Carburetor float bowl screws have been stripped out by using the crapola stuff you find in your wife's kitchen junk drawer! Even the tools that came with your bike are cheap (Unless you ride a BMW, I have heard they are decent)

 

Best money you will EVER spend is right here:

 

Vessel Megadora 900 JIS Cross Point Screwdriver Set P1 P2 P3

---

<b>Condition:Brand New.<br><br>P1 × 75     Blade :Cross Point,Shaft length (mm): 75,Total length (mm): 175<br>P2 × 100   Blade :Cross Point,Shaft length (mm): 100,Total length (mm): 150<br>P3 × 150...

 

Brings this video to mind, if you have some time to learn...(burn)

 

 

Edited September 23, 2022 by lwmcvay3

[witgen]

Just as a note. Jis b 4633 ( also known as jis head) standard was declared obsolete 2008 and also japanese industry is using  ISO 7433 (also known as philips head) now days. So JIS screws haven't been used in japanese bikes for over a decade.

 

That said.... Truth is that philips is really horrifyingly bad design because it's basically designed to slip. For that we can thank Ford. In the early days of mass production, it was convenient way to avoid over torqueing screws (+it's easier to align quickly). When it slips, screw was tight enough and you could move on to next screw.

 

Japanese thought this was a really crappy way to handle the problem, so profile was slightly changed so that it wouldn't slip so easily. JIS head actually bites better on philips screws too, but using philips driver for JIS screw is just as bad as using pozidriv driver on philips head.

 

In my experience philips heads are destroyed in four different ways (not in any particular order):

1. Using pozidriv head

2. Using worn out philips head

3. Using wrong size philips head

4. Using poor quality driver. (Not all philips heads are equal. Poor tolerances are certain death to any philips screw)

 

So even though jis screwdrivers are actually better, they are hard to come by these days, because even Japan doesn't use them anymore. Also ordinary philips screwdrivers are sold as JIS drivers so beware. Next best thing is to make sure you're using quality tools and when the head starts showing any wear, you get rid of it and get a new one.

Edited September 23, 2022 by witgen
Fixed a typo

[BikeBrother]

Well, after reading all this, I know I'm screwed...

[Hibobb]

Get the Vessel brand JIS screwdriver set and you will not regret it... End of story.

[Tenerider]

I'm about to install lowering brackets for my pegs - any of you guys know which TX size is needed to remove the OEM brackets?

[BikeBrother]

@ tenerider. Its T-50.

Edited August 4, 2023 by BikeBrother

[jmoth79]

very handy, thank you!

[SpankyPineapple]

Having rebuilt my bike from the frame up, and ridden it in some isolated areas there are some parts you DO NOT want to be doing on a super long distance trip without having a shop. If you have a shop, it sort of makes the question a bit moot. I tried exactly what you're talking about, and it became such a huge pain it's really wasn't worth it. You have to consider what you're ACTUALLY going to be able to do on the side of the trail, and what's going to get bodged together/wait til the next town with shop access. If you're having to do a front sprocket, or drop the swing arm, or redo engine mounts on the trail, something has already gone catastrophically wrong in your planning or execution. The beauty of the T7 is that everything is relatively easy to replace metric fasteners. Most hardware stores will carry enough little nuts and bolts to get you moving. Every time I put on some accessory, I keep a few of the OEM fasteners as on board spares, and few little extra bolts, but that's about it. A full complete nut and bolt package would of course be cool to have, but you'd be lugging a ton of weight around for really marginal gains.