Dealer refuses to adjust suspension

[winddown]

I thought this was odd.  I'm picking up my new T7 tomorrow and I asked the head mechanic if he would windup the preload and the damping for me.  He claims Yamaha says the suspension should not be touched in the the first 1000km, to allow it to bed in.  What kind of BS is that?  I sat on the bike and the sag was extreme, I'm 105kg.  Grabbing a fist full of brake and pushing down on the bars I felt like I could nearly bottom out the forks.  I wouldn't feel comfortable riding it all the way home as sloppy as it is at the moment.  Anyone else experienced this from a dealer.  I'm at Ipswich in QLD Australia

[Tenerider]

Bedding in suspension? These are just valves, springs, some seals ...

Ignore it, hope anybody can help you with some recommendations for adjusting dampening as a starting point.

 

Preload on the back is easily set up, setting the sag to about 30% of the rear shock's travel (30% of 200 mm = 60 mm):

Try to unload the rear spring as much as possible, measure distance from rear axle straight up to the seat (or any other point directly above the axle).

Say its 1000mm, then preload should be set so that the distance is 700mm 940mm when you sit on the bike. See manual, the description is quite good.

Fork sag is not adjustable.

 

Edit: Made some corrections, thanks @Uncle M

 

Edited March 2, 2022 by Tenerider

[AZJW]

@winddown Here's a few good threads and at 105kg, the stock rear spring will most likely be a disappointment,  regardless of adjustments. I'm what some would call a lightweight at 90kg ready to ride and changing out my rear spring to a 90kg was the best bang for the buck suspension wise I've spent.

 

 

 

[williestreet]

Complete and utter BS.  If the mechanic or anyone actually believes this they are pretty dam stupid and not the place to take the bike to for service in the future.

 

The stock springs are too soft to get proper sag for someone your weight, but in the short term this is what I would do before leaving the shop.

 

All you need is a small flat screwdriver, so take one with you when you go to pick it up.

 

On the rear shock there is a large black knob that faces the rear of the bike.  Turn the knob clockwise. As you turn it you will feel slight clicks every half turn or so.  Continue to turn until it stops and then tun to back one click.

Now you are on max preload and will have approx 66-69mm of sag.

This is the best you can get with the stock spring and a weight of 105KG.

 

On top of the shock facing the rear, you will see a small screw adjuster.  This is your compression adjuster.  Using your screwdriver turn it slowly clockwise.  You will feel a click every 1/4 turn.  Turn fully clockwise until it stops, then turn it back counter clockwise 7 clicks.  

On the bottom of the shock you will see another screw adjuster. (rebound adjustment)  Same procedure, clockwise until it stops, and then turn it back counter clockwise to 10 clicks.

 

Adjuster on top of the forks rebound,  same procedure, fully clockwise then back to 10 clicks.

 

Lay on the ground at the forks and try to look up the bottom of the forks.  There is a rubber plug in the bottom to keep dirt out of the compression adjuster.  Using your screwdriver pry the rubber plug out.

Again same procedure, clockwise and then back to 8 clicks.

 

Fork preload is not adjustable, but the stock fork springs are not as bad as the rear.  

 

This will get you close to an acceptable setting for the short term.  Make sure the screwdriver you take has a narrow blade and is not very long.   The adjusters are not very wide and a wide blade on the screwdriver will not fit into the slot and mark up the soft brass housing.  Stubby screwdriver works best for the shock compression adjuster as it is a tight space and you can't get a long screwdriver in there.

 

Congrats on the new ride.

 

Edited March 1, 2022 by williestreet

[RideID]

I found this info handy:

 

Yamaha T7 Tenere 700 XTZ690 Fork & Shock Suspension Info & Tuning Mods

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Yamaha T7 Tenere 700 XTZ 690 XT690Z

 

[DT675]

That is indeed a strange one. But a good right hand and a flat blade screwdriver with 5 minutes will do the trick. 

[Tenerider]

2 hours ago, Hogan said:

Springs have a bedding in period.

It's normal for them to soften up a bit and you loose a bit of height.

Still  I don't see why you can't adjust it.

It's got a knob you turn, no tools required. It's designed to be operated by the rider.

Dealer just didn't want to do it. Or at least they would do it, but at the 1000km service where they can charge you to do it.

Thanks for clarifying!

[Ray Ride4life]

2 hours ago, Hogan said:

Springs have a bedding in period*

It's normal for them to soften up a bit and you loose a bit of height.

Still  I don't see why you can't adjust it**.

It's got a knob you turn, no tools required. It's designed to be operated by the rider.

Dealer just didn't want to do it. Or at least they would do it, but at the 1000km service where they can charge you to do it.

* Never thought of that but i can see a logic in that.

** That for all.
I don't think it will be very much but when you have an already soft suspension kept on the even softer setting and let the customer ride off is irresponsible in my opinion.
If it is just out of lack of customer service it's just stupid but telling the customer they have to ride with a dangerous setting until it gets more dangerous is just negligent.
Just adjust it the best you can and readjust when you feel it's getting softer but i doubt you will notice that.

[winddown]

Thanks for all the info guys, and for the detailed setup for my weight @williestreet   I have no illusions about the ineffectiveness of this suspension for a guy my weight, I have already been speaking with a dedicated suspension shop about the upgrades, it's just a matter of how much I want to spend.  There are so many options from full Ohlines or Wilbers replacement to a simple upgrading of the springs.   I wanted to ride it for a few weeks first though to feel how the factory gear handles, so I had a baseline.  The mechanic 'Service manager' in the shop is certainly not interested in my safety, I hate talking with those clowns and always insist on talking to the head mechanic or at least the one who will be working on my bike.  They are nothing more than bean counters.  After tires, suspension is the most critical component on a bike in my view.  It has to be right, not perfect, but just effective for the roads I ride on.

 

I'll take a copy of these settings above and a couple of screwdrivers but I'll take the bike up around the corner to do the adjustment in case they want to void my warranty lol.  I also regrettably ordered a set of OEM lower crash bars, if they haven't been fitted I'll tell them I no longer require them, I have read that thread about them breaking the engine case where they attach.  If they have been fitted I'll check between the lugs to see if the spacer has been fitted and if it hasn't I'll insist they remove them.   A 16mm tube should be easy to identify.

 

 

 

[williestreet]

I am 100KG and knew I would be needing springs for sure.  I wanted to ride it for the season to see how it felt and have a better idea what it needed before I spent money on a shock or other changes.

 

I made a set of 5mm shims for the fork springs and also another 10mm shim for the shock to correct my sag short term until I could get my replacement springs.  

Eventually I bought springs front and rear and the bike was significantly better.  My off-road is usually not crazy tough.  Mostly logging roads, with some rocky trails, but nothing too severe and I ride within my limits 95 % of the time.

There are a lot of aftermarket options for sure, but I have a good suspension shop nearby and after a long talk with him about what I felt was lacking and what I wanted, I decided to just have the stock forks and shock revalved.  

Still snow on the ground here so I can't comments on results yet.

 

There is a lot of potential with the stock stuff, if you can find a qualified shop.  

There a certainly 2 names in Australia that have done a lot of tuning with the stock parts  on the T7.  Teknik motorsports and Motorcyclebiz , but those are in NSW.  

Look around and I am sure yo can find a good shop close by that can modify the stock stuff.  

 

Enjoy the new ride.

[Uncle M]

@williestreet I think you'd be miles ahead if you installed the correct shock spring for your weight rather than added more preload to a spring that's too soft. Then dial in the minimum amount of preload to get 30% (60-70 mm) of the shock's 200 mm total suspension travel for correct rider sag (rider sag is you sitting on the bike).

I changed my shock spring to the correct Rally Raid UK spring (based on the table on their website) and got a noticeable improvement on the same type of riding it sounds like you do. You might not find a need to do anything more with your suspension!

@Ktmmitchat Rally Raid UK was very helpful with providing feedback in ordering the correct spring. I'd assume your local moto shop might have the tools to change the shock spring (not just a suspension shop) but I could be wrong!!

[Uncle M]

@winddown sorry about the thread hijack!

[williestreet]

1 hour ago, Uncle M said:

@williestreet I think you'd be miles ahead if you installed the correct shock spring for your weight rather than added more preload to a spring that's too soft. Then dial in the minimum amount of preload to get 30% (60-70 mm) of the shock's 200 mm total suspension travel for correct rider sag (rider sag is you sitting on the bike).

I changed my shock spring to the correct Rally Raid UK spring (based on the table on their website) and got a noticeable improvement on the same type of riding it sounds like you do. You might not find a need to do anything more with your suspension!

@Ktmmitchat Rally Raid UK was very helpful with providing feedback in ordering the correct spring. I'd assume your local moto shop might have the tools to change the shock spring (not just a suspension shop) but I could be wrong!!

I agree.

 

As mentioned in my post the spacers were installed to get me by for a month or so until my springs came in.

New springs put me right at 30% with no spacers up front and 1.5mm/3 clicks on the stock preload adjuster.

 

Shock spring compressors are easily made.  No need to pay someone else for this simple job.  

 

 

[Uncle M]

@williestreet oops mybad! Missed the part where you said you DID buy springs!!

Edited March 2, 2022 by Uncle M

[TeabagInsurance]

47 minutes ago, williestreet said:

I agree.

 

As mentioned in my post the spacers were installed to get me by for a month or so until my springs came in.

New springs put me right at 30% with no spacers up front and 1.5mm/3 clicks on the stock preload adjuster.

 

Shock spring compressors are easily made.  No need to pay someone else for this simple job.  

 

 

Well that's WAY more professional looking than how I did mine. I swapped mine using a hydraulic floor jack and ratchet straps. Yes, it was pretty sketchy, but I would do it again if I'm being honest.

[Mapbook]

Uprated my rear spring from these 

Yamaha T7 Uprated OEM Shock Spring-RRP 627

---

Yamaha T7 Uprated OEM Shock Spring

 

[winddown]

Well while you guys have been thrashing out the nuts-n-blots of suspension improvements I've spent an hour and a half in the bike shop signing papers, counting money, sorting insurance and going through pre-delivery checks and pep talks.  I swear this world is getting more confusing by the day.  I was surprised they didn't want me to take a pre-delivery covid test.

 

Anyway I got it!  And escaped out the side drive and away.  I must admit it took me a half hour before I even felt comfortable on it.  It just felt "Weird", but as soon I stopped trying to ride it like my sports bike and just "pointed" it where I wanted to go, things seems to fall into place.  By that time the breaks were working too lol.  They forgot to tell me they needed bedding in, something I hadn't considered until the first red light.  Well I'm exhausted now, and elated, and the bike is tucked away in the garage and I'm back in the A/C. 

 

Forgive me if I don't comment on any of the post above at the moment, I just want a cool drink and a long snooze.  Some of us old guys relish our afternoon naps!  I'll be out first thing tomorrow though getting back into it, first I'll record the current settings then I'll set the suspension up as suggested in williestreet.  It didn't ride too badly on the way home, which means nothing since I was just cruising back up the highway, but frankly I was hot and tired and couldn't be bothered stopping, so humid here after the floods.

Thanks for the insights guys.

 

 

 

 

 

 

[winddown]

5 hours ago, Hogan said:

 

It's not like a dirt bike, it's not like a road bike.

It's some weird hybrid.

Feels good off the seat, but on it - meh. Seat should be a couple of inches forward.

 

Anyway I wouldn't worry too much about the suspension, just crank the knob until you fit stronger springs.

 

 

I think you might be right, it is designed as a road/offroad bike so there has to be compromises in how it rides on both.  I really noticed the large front wheel, not wanting to 'drop' in when I corner but I think it must be just a perception thing because I have seen have too many vids of guys flying through twisties and barrelling down dirt roads with complete confidence, and when I did push it over it went down fine, just felt weird, the high wide bars are probably a factor for me too as I have only ever ridden bikes with clipons .  I'll just ride the damn thing every chance I get and I'm sure it will feel natural after a while, I'm 6' so the bars, seat etc are well positioned for me,  The issuet will be the suspension for sure, I was told that by a couple of experienced riders I met in town who had ridden them since 2019.  They told me that even on the blacktop it can be sketchy (dangerous was the word one used) without corrective measures.  They had both replaced their fork cartridges and shocks.

Edited March 2, 2022 by winddown

[williestreet]

Clean the rotors with some brake cleaner.

 

I personally think the issue is more a light anti-corrosion spray on the rotors than needing to bed them in.  

I had the same issue, soaked the rotors inside and out with brake cleaner.  Spray a bunch on the pads as well and wiped both sides of the rotor down.   When you think you are done, do it a second time.  

 

Next time out the brakes felt completely different and normal.

[winddown]

13 minutes ago, williestreet said:

Clean the rotors with some brake cleaner.

 

 

how will that go with the painted rims?  How about I just use some hot soapy water first and see how that goes.

[williestreet]

It won't bother the rims, but If it concerns you just soak a rag with brake cleaner and then wipe them down.  Do it a few times and be sure to spin the wheels or move the bike a few feet so you get the entire rotor and don't miss the spot hidden by the caliper. 

[winddown]

On 3/2/2022 at 10:01 PM, williestreet said:

It won't bother the rims, but If it concerns you just soak a rag with brake cleaner and then wipe them down.  Do it a few times and be sure to spin the wheels or move the bike a few feet so you get the entire rotor and don't miss the spot hidden by the caliper. 

Good plan, I did it last night, found a spray can of brake cleaner in an obscure box on the top shelf, not the sort of thing I use regularly.  Last job I did on brakes was cleaning the drums on an old 77 Hiace camper 6 years ago, the wheel cylinders had leaked everywhere.  I soaked them in hot soapy water for two days then sun dried them and went over them with metho.   Friggin laborious!  When I was 18 and got my first decent street bike I swore I'd never buy another car, no more gearbox work, crawling under to do exhaust repairs.  Then reality met up with my free lifestyle 

[winddown]

On 3/1/2022 at 11:23 PM, williestreet said:

Complete and utter BS.  If the mechanic or anyone actually believes this they are pretty dam stupid and not the place to take the bike to for service in the future....  this is what I would do before leaving the shop...  X,Y,Z

 

Adjuster on top of the forks rebound,  same procedure, fully clockwise then back to 10 clicks.

 

Bugger!  I forgot the rebound, I'll go and do that now.  All the other settings are changed and the factory settings recorded.  I'll change them back before the first service ( just in case)  The mechanic was emphatic about not changing them so I don't want to risk any conflict with the warranty hey.  Then I'll get a nice upgrade

[thepointchris]

On 3/1/2022 at 9:16 PM, winddown said:

Well while you guys have been thrashing out the nuts-n-blots of suspension improvements I've spent an hour and a half in the bike shop signing papers, counting money, sorting insurance and going through pre-delivery checks and pep talks.  I swear this world is getting more confusing by the day.  I was surprised they didn't want me to take a pre-delivery covid test.

 

Anyway I got it!  And escaped out the side drive and away.  I must admit it took me a half hour before I even felt comfortable on it.  It just felt "Weird", but as soon I stopped trying to ride it like my sports bike and just "pointed" it where I wanted to go, things seems to fall into place.  By that time the breaks were working too lol.  They forgot to tell me they needed bedding in, something I hadn't considered until the first red light.  Well I'm exhausted now, and elated, and the bike is tucked away in the garage and I'm back in the A/C. 

 

Forgive me if I don't comment on any of the post above at the moment, I just want a cool drink and a long snooze.  Some of us old guys relish our afternoon naps!  I'll be out first thing tomorrow though getting back into it, first I'll record the current settings then I'll set the suspension up as suggested in williestreet.  It didn't ride too badly on the way home, which means nothing since I was just cruising back up the highway, but frankly I was hot and tired and couldn't be bothered stopping, so humid here after the floods.

Thanks for the insights guys.

 

 

 

 

 

 

I DO remember the feeling when I picked mine up - first time Brand New bike, and first time after 15 year lay-off! the afternoon nap was sweet with a broad smile on my face! enjoy the ride.

[Terez]

Dealer should be reported to Yamaha as incompetent...and held to account for it and shitty service